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my hanfu favorites

@ziseviolet / ziseviolet.tumblr.com

Pictures of hanfu (han chinese clothing) I like. She/her. About Tags Replies Where to Buy Hanfu My Ko-fi
Anonymous asked:

Hello! Do you happen to have a master post of all of your asks/posts anywhere? Just to help me navigate! ^^

Hi, thanks for the question! (Image via duitang)

For all my own posts, please see my China tag (that’s the tag I use for my original posts).For navigation via tags, my Tags page has links to common & useful tags on my blog. I’ll be updating the Tags page and this Masterpost as needed ^^.

Ziseviolet’s Replies Masterpost, Part 1 (Part 2):

Hanfu Terms:

Hanfu History:

Wedding Hanfu:

Modified Hanfu, Hanyuansu, Mix & Match:

Hanfu Accessories:

Hanfu Hair Accessories:

Hanfu Hairstyles:

Makeup:

Men’s Hanfu:

Men’s Headwear/Hairstyles:

Hanfu Undergarments:

Wearing Hanfu:

Making Hanfu:

Buying Hanfu & Hanfu Accessories:

***Hanfu in films/dramas/animations is in Pt 2 of Masterpost!*** 

***Hanfu revival movement is in Pt 2 of Masterpost!***

***Comparison with kimono & hanbok is in Pt 2 of Masterpost!***

Cloud collar

A woman at a recent college graduation ceremony in Sichuan wearing Chinese Ming dynasty-style hanfu, including a yunjian/cloud collar. Wearing hanfu at graduation is becoming more and more popular with Chinese students at home and abroad (x):

Yesa

An ancient type of clothing worn during the Ming dynasty, it is a cross-collared, long sleeved robe with narrow pleats on the lower hem; while the back of the lower part is flat, the front has two densely pleated sides with a flat middle. Originally worn in the palace and by the wealthy it eventually spread to the commoners.

Note: the above photo depicts tieli, not yesa. Tieli looks very similar to yesa, but tieli's skirt is evenly pleated all around, while yesa's skirt has a large flat center panel in the front & back. I wrote about how to tell the difference between tieli and yesa here.

Below is a yesa (x) - note the skirt:

Source: Wikipedia
Anonymous asked:

I am still kinda confused about the differences of TieLi 贴里 and YeSa 曳撒 They are both from Ming Dynasty but they also have the pleated skirt and similar print. I tried to see the differences, but I can’t, thanks for your attention!

Hi, thanks for the question!

Tieli/贴里 and Yesa/曳撒 (also known as Yisan) are different Ming dynasty men’s hanfu styles that look very similar. This is because tieli is actually a variant design of yesa. Torguqin wrote an informative article on yesa and tieli here, which I’ll summarize:

On Yesa (x):

Yesa is a distinctive hanfu design from the Ming dynasty. As a Sinicized version of the Mongolian jisün (banquet) robe, the function of this robe changed greatly as it changed hands to the Han. Yesa was worn by imperial eunuchs, servants, and street-running pages, and as martial and military parade regalia. The large pleated skirt in front greatly enhances the hip and thigh profile, and with the robe sometimes worn short enough to expose the entire boot, it exemplifies the masculine prowess of the wearer. Below - yesa in Ming painting (x):

The distinctive feature of yesa is the construction of the outfit itself – while looking from the front it consists of a cross-collared top sewn together to a pleated skirt, the back is a straight long robe. The skirt is not sewn shut to the back piece, but rather use two large outward-extending “flaps” or “ears” to cover the side slits, creating a unique side and back profile that allows unrestrained leg movement and access to the inner layer of clothing. Below - yesa pattern:

On Tieli (x):

Tieli is a variant design of yesa, but instead of its unique bottom design, it is a pleated skirt attached to the top. Its name comes from the Mongolian term “terlig”. Both yesa and tieli serve similar functions and offer similar freedom of movement, and hence were loved by commoners and elite alike. Moreover, tieli is often seen in paintings as the outer clothing of young boys and servants of pre-adolescent age. Below - 1) tieli in Ming paintings (x), 2) tieli pattern:

Here’s a handy slide that summarizes the differences between yesa and tieli (in Chinese), via:

So as you can see, the easiest way to tell yesa and tieli apart visually is by looking at the skirt. If there’s a large flat center panel in the front & back of the skirt, it’s yesa. If it’s evenly pleated all around, it’s tieli. For example, in the Ming painting below, the little boy in green is wearing tieli. Everyone else is wearing yesa (x):

Another clue is the presence of “waibai/外摆” - the “flaps” on the sides of the skirt that yesa (below right) has due to its construction, and tieli (below left) doesn’t have:

Finally, here’s a quick quiz - can you identify which of the below four outfits are yesa and which are tieli? (answers below):

Answers (top to bottom, left to right): 1) yesa, 2) tieli, 3) tieli, 4) yesa.

For more information on yesa and tieli, Newhanfu has an in-depth article here. There are also Wikipedia articles on yesa & tieli. And you can check out my tieli and yesa/yisan tags.

If any followers have more information, please share. Hope this helps!

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@audreydoeskaren​

A semi-related thing:

Per my understanding, if a tieli or yesa/yisan (alongside a bunch of other masculine and feminine garments) is ornamented with 云肩通袖膝阑/yunjian tongxiu xilan (lit: cloud-collar, sleeve-bands and knee-band), like this one: 

it is considered 吉服/jifu (lit. clothes for auspicious occasions). This specific set of ornamentation is a mark of both rank AND occasion. 

Here is an in-period example.

Detail from Emperor Xuan at Leisure. Shang Xi (active 1426 CE-1435 CE). Ming Dynasty (1368 CE-1644 CE). pigments on silk. 211 cm x 315 cm. The Palace Museum, Beijing, PRC. 

The two gents depicted are eunuchs, as indicated by their headgear. They are also wearing robes (unsure if they’re yesa/yisan or tieli) with this set of ornamentation. 

The 云肩/yunjian (lit. cloud collar) is the polychrome ornamentation zone on the chest and shoulders (and back, which isn’t shown here). The 通袖/tongxiu (lit. sleeve-bands) are down each arm to the wrist and also connected to the cloud-collar. The 膝阑/xilan (lit. knee-band) is at about knee-level. 

The only people who wore these on a regular basis would probably have been high-ranking eunuchs attending the emperor, and even then perhaps not every day.

Oh, also a PDA for folks: 

Hanfu is an 100% modern fashion trend and its products. 

Hi Producer (正好遇见你) Infodump

Disclaimer: I have no idea about the accuracy of the information shared in the drama, I'm merely transcribing for future reference purposes. Proceed with caution!

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Ep 10: Porcelain

Protoporcelain has existed in China since Shang dynasty. With the economic and cultural development of the powerful Tang Dynasty the influence of Chinese porcelain spread abroad, an important contribution to the world civilization.

Archaism in ceramics was popular in Song dynasty and flourished in Ming and Qing dynasties. Nowadays many believe archaism is to imitate antique ceramics, whereas there's so much more into it such as reflecting the culture and characteristics of different periods and times, demanding the artists' thoughts and innovation all the more.

Jun and Ru ware were considered to be as similar as twins and weren't differentiated much by the people of the industry.

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Glazing the Porcelain

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Ep 11: Cont.

Chenghua Chicken Cup

A much-beloved design among all classes of people even in the present-day China compared to the other, "classier" porcelain styles, there are many stories about the origin of this cup.

Hi Producer picked the most sensational one, which is about how Emperor Chenghua appointed his beloved nanny who was 17 yrs older than him and was the only complain to him when he was deposed as a child, as his Consort once he was reinstated~ to protect her, keep her close etc.

And they had a child (out of love, or to secure her position, idk) but he died prematurely, and over years everyone started accusing her of witchcraft and killing other concubines' children (which is highly debated by historians). This entire thing obviously made the couple very distressed. Looking through porcelain pattern cataloges, Emperor Chenghua liked the chicken one most because of its simplicity and how it depicted a chicken mom and a chicken baby, which reminded him of their relationship. He had one made and sent to his beloved mother figure/consort.

(I always wanted one of these cups because they are SO CUTE but now I want even more lol)

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