THRU by Marc Lepine | Capital Dining
THRU is found inside Atelier Restaurant, at 540 Rochester Street. Reservations are made at June and July dates are now sold out. August dates to come. Cost: $400 for two, taxes, gratuity and booze included. Of all the various chats I have had with chef Marc Lepine over the years, the one I remember most vividly was his response to my intoning, matter of factly, the virtue of the KISS principle. I don't even remember in what context; I just remember he recoiled. "What does that even mean?" he asked me. "Chefs are always talking about keeping things simple. I've never understood it. Why would I ever want to keep it simple?" There's nothing remotely simple about THRU. It is, in fact, a complex dining adventure with many moving bits. It's meant, I think, to offer what Lepine's 11- year-old restaurant, Atelier, offers… but ramped up and with more shared content from the renegade brain of its chef. The small dining room is a shimmery silver boite that seats six, at three