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Pick of the Plates: 17 Memorable Dishes of 2017 | Capital Dining
Chestnuts and Cabbage at Clover I ate this in the last gasps of last December, too late to include in my roundup of good plates of 2016, so it's being squeezed into this one. There aren't many chefs who can dream up a vegan dish with such complexity of flavours and textures, and plate, just as well, a kick-ass, fully-loaded beef burger. West de Castro of Clover is that chef. Nothing like the cabbage roll of my childhood, hers was bright green and beautifully veined, sided with a nutty chestnut purée, and surrounded with hard-roasted eryngii mushrooms, caramelized shallots and puffed wild rice for extra crunch. An herb oil lent a little more chlorophyll. It was one of the most pleasurable, interesting dishes of the year. Clover, 155 Bank St., 613-680-8803 The Wild Boar Pizza with Apples and Sage Oil at Tennessy Willems Puffy, burbled, crisp and soft, dotted with char and tasting of summer campfires — such are the pies at Hintonburg's TW. The tomato sauce is thick with flavour, the