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How to Make a Chevron Quilt from Start to Finish - Craftcore
If you have never quilted, this tutorial to create a small chevron tabletop quilt will be perfect for you. This project is small but will give you the skills you need to make a basic quilt with half square triangle (HST) blocks. You’ll learn how to do the following:advertisement - content continues below cut out your fabrics assemble half square triangle (HST) unit blocks two at a time assemble the HST units into a chevron pattern assemble your quilt sandwich: quilt top, batting, and backing quilt the sandwich square up your quilt create binding from strips of fabric attach the binding to the quilt with mitred corners and hidden ends It looks like a lot of steps, but since the scale of the quilt is small, the process moves along quickly. The finished size of the quilt is 13” x 25”. Once you can do a quilt like this, you can use the knowledge to work on bigger projects. This tutorial is written assuming that you already know how to operate your sewing machine, but everything else is pretty basic. You should be able to follow along if you are a complete newbie to quilting. If you do have any questions during the process, feel free to leave me a comment here and I will get back to you as soon as I can. Supplies This post contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a little commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase. Sewing Machine ¼” seam foot recommended walking foot recommended Quilt Batting (15” x 27”) (I like Warm & Natural Brand cotton batting) Fabric (Quilting-weight Cotton): For the Front: From 8 prints, you’ll need a 4 inch strip of full width of fabric, or you can use 8 8”x8” Spoonflower swatches Backing: 15” x 27” Binding: 5 inch strip of full width of fabric (approx 44” width) Thread (Preferably Cotton) Disappearing Ink Fabric Marker (always test before using on your project) Scissors / Snippers Cutting Board (preferably 24”x26”) Rotary Cutter Acrylic Ruler Iron and Ironing Board Safety Pins (curved are best) While you can cut out your fabrics with regular scissors, I truly recommend investing in a self-healing cutting board/mat, rotary cutter, and acrylic ruler. Quilting can be an exercise in frustration if your fabrics don’t line up perfectly. A good rotary cutter will help create precise cuts, and combining those precise cuts with perfect ¼” seam allowances creates quilts with corners that line up nicely. In Ontario, Canada, Fabricland is a great source for these and they go on sale for 50% off often. Cutting Out Your Fabrics You’ll need 8 prints to create the chevron design. If you don’t have 8 coordinating prints, you could also do 4 prints and use each one twice, or do a traditional chevron pattern with only two prints. For the Front: Cutting out 4” squares from 8 different prints If you are cutting it out from a length of fabric off a bolt: Fold your fabric in half with the selvages together. Making sure your fabric is squared up to the lines on your cutting mat, use your rotary cutter and ruler to cut a fresh edge. Move your ruler over 4 inches, then do a second cut. You’ll now have a strip of 4” wide by 44” (approx). From this strip, make four cuts 4” inches apart. You’ll now have 4 squares plus some extra to use for another project. Repeat for each print. If you are cutting it from an 8×8” Spoonflower swatch: Simply cut it in half crosswise twice with your rotary cutter to create 4 squares. Repeat for each print. advertisement - content continues below For the Quilt Batting: Cut out a 15” x 27” rectangle from the batting. It can be a bit larger if you wish, no need to be exact. I always make sure my batting is at least 1” larger on each side to account for slight shifting while quilting. For the Backing: Cut out a 15” x 27” rectangle for the batting. Similar to the batting, I always cut this out a bit larger than the front so no matter what the fabric will reach the edge and be caught by the quilt binding. For the Binding: Fold your fabric in half, selvages together. Making sure your fabric is squared up with the lines of your cutting mat, use your rotary cutter and ruler to cut a fresh, clean edge. Move your ruler over 2.5 inches, then do a second cut. Move your ruler over again 2.5” inches and do a third cut. You’ll now have a two strips of 2.5”” wide by 44” (approx) fabric. Assembling the Quilt Here is a diagram for how to assemble the chevrons. It may look complicated at first glance, but you just need to think about its parts at a smaller level. This quilt consists of 8 rows. Each row consists of 4 Half Square Triangle (HST) units. I’ve used a rainbow colour palette on the diagram to differentiate between each print and numbers 1 through 8. When assembling each of the HSTs, you’ll need to ensure you put the right prints together in order to create the pattern. For example, you’ll need to create 4 units with print #8 and print #1 together. You’ll need to create another 4 units with print #1 and print #2 together. And so on, and so on. Assembling Two Half Square Triangle (HST) Units at Once Take two of your 4×4” fabric squares and stack them print sides together. Reference the diagram to ensure you have the correct prints together. Line up your ruler from one point to the opposite point, forming two right-angled triangles. Mark this with a disappearing ink fabric marker.If you don’t have a disappearing ink marker, you can use a regular pencil or pen, but note that it may not wash out. If you have one, put a ¼” seam foot on your sewing machine and sew two seams, one on each side of the marked line. Take the unit back to the cutting mat and carefully slice along the marked line. You’ll now have two HST units. Press them with an iron and snip off the little triangles sticking out from the seams and any hanging threads. When pressing, you have the choice of opening the seams flat or pressing the seams toward one side. I like to press towards the darker fabric, but the choice is yours. I find it’s the most efficient to stack and mark all the squares as a batch, then sew them all as a batch, then cut all the marked squares as a batch, then trim them all as a batch. Please note that if you are using a disappearing ink pen that you should sew the seams as soon as possible. I’ve done the ink in the evening and gone back to my sewing machine the next morning to find that the ink had already evaporated. My pens say their ink disappears after 48 hours, but I haven’t found that this is actually the case. Once you have the units prepared, it’s time to assemble them. Assembling the Chevrons Referencing your diagram, you’ll want to create each of your rows. Clear a surface and arrange the HST units into the correct design. Use a ¼” seam allowance to sew the HSTs to each other. Double check that you have them oriented the right way before sewing so don’t have a wonky chevron. Note: it’s worth it to bring out your iron to press all your HST units. This helps line them all up for perfect points. Sew together four HST units to create a row. Repeat for all 8 rows then press your seams. Arrange your 8 rows on a flat surface to double-check that the chevron pattern is correct. Carefully line up row 1 and row 2, pinning them right sides together. Be sure to line up your points; I suggest pinning directly where the points meet for the greatest chance of success. Use a ¼” seam allowance. Repeat for the remaining rows. Press the seams. It’s beautiful, isn’t it? Admire your handy work for a minute, breathe, and let’s turn this quilt top into an actual quilt! Assembling the Quilt Sandwich Place your backing fabric wrong side up on a flat surface. If this were a larger project, you might want to use masking tape to adhere it to the surface. Place your quilt batting on top. Make sure it’s smooth (no wrinkles!). Centre your quilt top right side up on top of the batting, making sure to line everything is lining up square. This is especially important if your backing fabric has a clear vertical or horizontal pattern since you don’t want the backing to appear crooked. Again, make sure it’s smoothly placed. Your quilt batting and backing should stick out evenly on all sides. Take some safety pins and pin through all three layers all over the quilt. I don’t necessarily pin every unit. For units of this size, pinning every other unit should be fine. When you’re done pinning, check both sides to ensure that you didn’t get any inadvertent wrinkling. Quilting the Sandwich If you have a walking foot attachment for your machine, attach it to your machine now. This attachment helps keep all your layers moving together. To quilt, all you need to do is sew a design over your quilt to make sure all your layers are attached together. You can do this in a simple way or you can make complex designs. Try to sew all of your lines in the same direction so that if there is any shifting, all your fabrics will shift in the same direction. There are a few different approaches you can take to quilting the sandwich: Quilting Styles Option 1: Stitch in the Ditch The fastest option is to stitch in the ditch. Simply stitch over all your seams, being careful to remove any safety pins that could get in your way as you go. Try your best not to stray from the seams. At minimum, you’ll want to stitch over all vertical and horizontal seams, but for best results, you can do those lines first, then follow along the chevron diagonal seams in a zig zag fashion. Option 2: Echo Quilting (as seen in the photos) This is the method I used in this project. Instead of sewing on top of the lines, you stitch a certain distance from the seams, echoing the shapes. My quilting is approximately ¼ inch from the seams. I like this method because it really emphasizes the shapes of the design, especially when the fabrics are in a similar colour pattern like this one. This method will take at least twice as long as stitch in the ditch since at minimum, you’ll need two lines of stitching to follow each seam. For increased effect, you can echo the lines more than once. Option 3: Line Quilting Rather than following the seams, you can do all-over stitch lines (vertical or horizontal) across the entire quilt an equal distance from each other. You can either mark your lines with a disappearing fabric marker, tape, or simply use the edge of your sewing foot to move a certain distance from the previous quilt line. Option 4: Free Motion You can do an all-over design over the whole quilt. I don’t have any experience with this method yet. You can see many examples on Pinterest. If you end up doing the echo style of quilting, the easiest method of following the chevron design is to sew along the edge, ¼” from the seams, towards an intersection. When you reach the seam line, stop sewing with your needle in the down position. Lift your presser foot, then rotate your quilt and realign your presser foot to ensure you will still be a ¼” from...