zigzag stitch

Okay it was totally worth the several hours it took me to figure out how to use the new machine because LOOK AT THIS MAGIC. This is the most gorgeous satin stitch I have ever achieved and it is SO TINY AND PERFECT I DIDN’T KNOW THIS WAS POSSIBLE ASDFJKL; *collapses*

To be fair, I’ve never had a machine with an actual satin stitch setting before. I’ve always just tightened up the zigzag stitch on my little manual machine, which isn’t quite the same thing (though it’s a perfectly functional way to finish applique if you don’t have a fancy-schmancy sewing machine with, like, more than five basic stitches). Having to do it manually for years probably helped me manage all the angles and curves on this piece, but the stitching is so smooth and even! I feel like I’ve just discovered cruise control.

…which, now that I think about it, I just did. I got my first new car a couple months ago (yay! I have a car with a roof and working door locks now!), and it’s the first vehicle I’ve ever owned that’s equipped with cruise control. (Of course, I keep forgetting to engage it because I’m not used to having it…)

Anyway, enough random facts about my driving. I’m just excited about the pretty satin stitch and had to flail a bit. XD


“Nieces in Stitches” by Flora Joy of Johnson City, Tennessee.

Flora Joy is an amazing textile technician. She created portaits in thread with the aid of computer assisted stitch software. The faces are drawn in vertical lines of zigzag stitching, and the features are defined by varying the width of the stitch. Each portait is framed in thread painted details of (what I assume must be) her neices’ favorite pastimes.

Photo taken at AQS Quilt Week Daytona Beach, Florida 2017.


I mentioned when previous commissions batch for those Jaspers was open that spots and spikes will be placed randomly and they all will have different spot patterns and each will be unique, and looks like I confused some people with that. I pictured then for comparison, what I meant.

Overall they look the same. But green spots which are not embedded to pattern are placed randomly. I sew each spot on plushie manually (with  zigzag    stitch). Big spikes on her mane are on the same place always, but small may vary in size, color and location.

Each Jasper is different. there’s no clones :)

My fellow Cole cosplayers (or anyone who needs this pattern from the Bioware universe), I have created a tutorial after completing one quarter of a pair of pants. Three more to go. Still, I’ve pretty much nailed down my method at this point, so I thought I’d throw it out there. This is my first time attempting this. I’m no expert. This is just my trial and error method. Still, I hope it is of use to someone.

The fabric I’m using is a dance wear leather-look vinyl from Spandex World. It has a great deal of stretch, so I’m hoping this eases the movement so I can do neat things like crouch and jump. I’m matching the dark chocolate that goes with the Ring Velvet armor palette. They also carry lighter browns for those of you doing the default camp look.

I’m using a zigzag stitch rather than a straight stitch to further ease the movement. I’ll let you know how well the pants function once they’re assembled.

Again, hope this helps!


How To Mimic a Serger Seam

Want to get a serger-like finish on a seam but don’t have the money to drop on a specialty machine? You can use a regular machine to achieve similar results, it will take a bit of time, but it will help your seams to keep from fraying on any costume that you make.

  • Start by making a wide zigzag stitch along the seam, try to get as close to the edge as possible
  • Go over everything with a straight stitch on the inner edge of the zigzag
  • Make a 3rd pass, tracing over the outer edge of the zigzag.

If you want your costumes to last longer and be washable this is the way to go, I did internal work on several of my earlier costumes just like this before I got a serger.

The seam itself won’t hold up as well as the real thing, but its a lot cheaper if you’re on a budget.


I made myself an adult sized body sock out of spandex material. I’m in it right now and it’s wonderful.
I got two yards of soft stretchy fabric for like $12 and sewed it with a zigzag stitch on my sewing machine. Online an adult body sock can be pretty costly. I’m pretty proud of myself. I made something similar before but it was too small.
I feel like I’m in a safe cave!
I was too anxious to get to an appointment today so I cancelled and crawled into my turquoise cave and I feel a little safer.


Happy Tuesday!

We’re bringing you more Cosplay Cover Spotlights! Next up is a Cap Santiago, who will be on Nova #1 Cosplay Variant, on sale now.

Born and raised in New York City, Cap went to his first convention at 10yrs old. It wasn’t until he started attending anime conventions that he discovered cosplay, debuting his first costume in 2006.

We asked David to walk us through the process of making a Nova costume

I started the black Nova costume by making a pattern out of cotton muslin, while taking into account the percentage of stretch in the spandex. In other words, I reduced the pattern size to accommodate the stretchiness of the fabric, so that it would fit snugly. I used a standard sewing machine with a zigzag stitch to sew the entire costume. The bodysuit and gloves are made of satin spandex, which is much shinier than standard spandex, and also very “slippery” to the touch. The gold parts of the costume are made of metallic spandex.

The design called for a gold band that encircles the shoulder area, a small shoulder extension, but also long sleeves. To accomplish this design, I made a sleeveless lined outer layer, which had the gold band appliqued in place, and also had an extended shoulder piece, which was supported on the inside by a band of stiffer fabric called spacer spandex. Then, I made a thinner lining piece for the chest, and attached the long sleeves to this layer. I stitched both layers together at the neck and waist, so that nothing would shift around.

The collar is stitched over the double-layered chest piece. To make the gold design on the chest front and back, I carefully hand-basted the gold applique into place about 1/16 of an inch from the edge. I had to be careful because metallic spandex will scar if pinned, so all stitching had to be within the area that I then machine zig-zag stitched to apply the applique. The applique is all one large piece that starts at the waist in the front, continues over the shoulders, and ends at the waist in the back. It was very tricky to apply it in one piece, but I didn’t want it to look segmented. It was especially challenging to bisect it perfectly with the back zipper.

The boots of the costume were altered from faux leather superhero-styled boots. I cut the front of the boots to be shorter than the back, as per the NOVA images, and then finished the raw cut edge by sewing a piece of leather to the raw edge and folding it to the inside of the boot. Then, I masked off the areas of the boots that needed black details, and painted the boots with acrylic paint for leather. I mixed a few different gold shades together to try to match the gold of the spandex. I used an airbrush to apply the paint.

The belt of the costume is made from a wide non-roll elastic band, which I covered in spacer spandex, and then in the gold spandex. I used the spacer spandex as the in-between layer to add dimension to the belt. The belt is stretchy, so it can be a solid band with no openings like the NOVA’s.

The helmet was a Vacu-formed Etruscan helmet that was recut and trimmed to fit my head, the face was sculpted to fit and applied to the front of the helmet. The face was attached with Methacrylite adhesive and the edges blended out with autobody filler “Bondo”. The seams on the helmet were made by appling a second layer made from a second Etruscan helmet. the raised ridge along the bottom edge was made from hand cut sheets of rigid plastic, seamed together with Methacrylite and blended with Bondo leaving the inside hollow.

The star was sculpted in clay, moulded in plaster and cast in semi-rigid latex with wire inserts for extra rigidity. after the latex was conformed to the helmet , it was coated with a thin layer of epoxy to create a smooth surface for paint. the eyes are made with a milky translucent acrylic sheet . the lights are a row of white LEDs wired to coin cells located in the raised edge along the bottom of the helmet. The paints are auto-body paints with automotive clear-coat.

The gaunlets are tapered vacu-formed cylinder .the outer layer was cut and trimmed from a second layer of the same cylinder and applied with Methacrylite adhesive. the hand back was carved wood then plastic was heated and shaped over the wood forms. the gold paint was custom mixed bronzing powders to match the gold fabric. the powders were suspended in a clearcoat and applied with a spraygun.

When he’s not working on his cosplay, Cap volunteers at a shelter to help stray animals.

For more from Cap Santiago, click over to his facebook!

Stay tuned to Marvel’s Tumblr as we continue highlighting more cosplayers from our Cover Variants each week!

Photographs provided by Judy Stephens


If any of you were wondering where the fuck I’ve been for the past two days, I’ve been damn near destroying my sewing machine on Toriel here. All of that is antique satin ribbon and gimp braid creased and folded around the curve, then set down with a very tight zigzag stitch to finish it. The bottom is a high-waisted underskirt lined with white flannel for warmth. The back is shirred for comfort and ease of wearing, and the entire dress is patterned satin jacquard.

I’ve seen some other Toriels at this point, and their cosplays look really, really dramatically different than mine, with face paint and screen printing over sewn detailing. …at this point, I’m thinking ‘fuck it, I’m going all the way’. I have enough material to go full-blown Queen Toriel, veil and all. If they don’t like it they can suck my dick. Miiiight build a tulle liner just for poof’s sake. That is a very big MIGHT, if I have time.

…Am I going to need a hoop for this? I fucking hope not.