yellow resin

Ganondorf Cat Cosplay tutorial Part 2!

With Fabrication done it was time to get painting and detailing done. Everyone has their own way of sealing foam up, Personally I use a spray paint black primer and do 2-3 layers.

Normally after that I use model paint acrylics but because of the details on the paint job I added a silver spray paint base. It was a good call because when I made a mistake with the acrylics not only could I fix it with a wet q tip, I could also use the q tip removal to do the actual detailing on smooth edges.

I would later glue tinted fabric to hide these edges

For the cracked chest I taped the underside with several layers of clear packing tape and then poured yellow resin on top carefully moving it around to fill the gaps. Once it dried I was able to peal the tape off from the underside creating the effect.

Most of the gold effects I actually used a gold flake pen for. You can find them near the spray paint in most stores. First time using one so I had to go back over with a little silver to fix the mistakes you see here. But the gold flake pen worked better than expected over the paint.

Next came the gold edging. I’m a big fan of using 3d puff paint (t shirt paint) for these. The bottles usually allow you to do lines fairly well and the paint remains malleable for a bit allowing you to go back over it (Next to it with careful force) with a small tongue depressor to smooth edges.

I still hate my paint job on the cracked breastplate. But the other turned out pretty well. Puff paint for edging and acrylics for the middle.

For the Gerudo fabric I took some white fabric scraps I had and sewed them together and turned them inside out to be long strips. Then I took some earl grey tea, and used the used the tea bag to stain each strip twice. Allowing them to dry in between staining. Tea coloring can’t be beat for that weathered look on fabric/parchment.

I went back to the puff paint for the designs after fabric gluing the strips into the design I needed. However I applied the puff paint with a paintbrush instead of pushing it out allowing for a flat design that still pops. You need to clean your brush immediately if you do this or you’ll really hafta scrub it to clean it later as puff paint likes to stick in the bristles. But its an effective application method.

Skip forward a bit applying the puff paint edging to ALL (Frickin heck) pieces I added small gems I bought and glued them on before taking the puff paint and dabbing small drops all around them for the flowered effect. (They sink as they dry). This shot was done before applying that to the front 2 gems.

Having tested out the fitting of the leather underneath it was time to glue both the leather and the fabric on to the shoulder piece. I used fabri-tac glue after roughing up the leather a bit for a better hold.

Also took this moment to finish the back detailing. Dammit almost none of you get to see this but I know its there!

The details of the cape was going to be too much to duplicate freehand for me… so I made a stencil… 

The circle was for reference.

I needed to secure the stencil more before using the gold spray paint. However I would go back later with black puff paint and sharpen all the edges of both sides of the spray job. Turned out better than I had hopped in the end, and saved a ton of time.

I would fade the edging of the puff paint better with another coat.

time to focus on the undershirts. A child’s sweatshirt turned into the top armor, I doubled over some fake fur and rolled the edge before sewing both on and then sewing the red thread that is present on the sleeves.

Velcro is your friend! The Armguards attach directly to the Gerudo cloth which was sewn unto the undershirt. Its a fast way to add them as the last piece of armor without needing to ‘attach’ anything around your cat’s (Pets) sensitive legs.

Both shirts done. The longsleeve goes on first with the sweatshirt on over.

The neck piece has a simple piece of elastic in the back. It was more comfortable for the cat than attaching it to the breastplate properly so this decision was made even if you can see fur on some pictures.

Next we did a test fitting to see the placement of the velcro for the chest piece…

and also the velcro placement for the shoulder piece to latch unto.

Once we had that all figured out and the velcro secure. I attached the cape to the leather under the shoulder as I had left a small piece near the collar not glued down.

Finally was sewing the eyebrows unto the wig. I pulled wool yarn apart and styled it around strings to make the rolled hair look. Each strip of hair attaching to a thin piece of foam. For the sideburns I rolled pulled yarn around with glue on the foam. Then I glued the loose fur on the backside and pulled it back in a flair. Afterwards I made a head harness with elastic and leather that glued on under everything securing solidly. 

There is a plastic jug side holding the painted foam in place with the edges sewn unto the base. the metal rods actually hold both sides and are secured via the head harness that was glued on. Each gem was sewn to the chain and then hand sewn to the wig after being attached to the large gem.

The eyebrows are connected via a small piece of thread for easier posing.

It slips right on over his chin and ears, you hafta fix the whiskers immediately but I gave his ears plenty of room so it wont irritate him.

And there you have it. A truncated 2 part tutorial of the process we went through to bring you all “Ga’nyan’dorf”

I’ve been putting off posting about this for a while now, but I’m seeing more and more people sticking stickers on dolls most likely inspired by me. I started putting stickers and human bandaids on comet ¾ years ago, I am not the best doll owner at all. I don’t usually research things before I do them and just spontaneously modify my expensive dolls as I please. But I’ve noticed that the glue used on the stickers and bandaids can cause the resin to yellow quicker and unevenly. Resin is a very porous material and it absorbs things a lot easier than one would think. Some glues used on stickers and Bandaids are very difficult to remove without some sort of glue remover product which in itself can be bad for the resin. I once left nail polish remover on my dolls head for a little too long and it legit melted the resin around the eye. Chemicals in general are not good for resin so I just thought I’d finally say something about it and to please not just do as I do, I’m very irresponsible with my dolls. I’m a really bad senpai. Lol. I will continue to stick shit on my resin krew bc it’s my style and like I said I am not a good dolly patent.

50Q BJD Meme

I got a bit creative and tired of there being no new BJD meme/questionnaires out there so here, 50 questions for you to have fun with!

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1. Have your tastes changed in sculpts over the years?

2. Do you have pre-made characters for the dolls that you get home which must fit a certain description, or, do you get them home and let inspiration hit?

3. What do you do when you get hooked on a particular sculpt and want it home right here, right now but can’t as you have to save or some other reason?

4. How many dolls are too many to you personally?

5. What are your thoughts on dolls with already pre-existing characters from movies/books/cartoons/etc.?

6. Acrylic, glass or urethane? And why?

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