yellow resin

Loving the sun ritual

The sun is not often paid as much attention as the moon in witchcraft. Yet the sun is so vital to our very existence, so vital to the health of crops and so vital to the flow of energy on our planet. The sun brings us precious vitamin D, which is really important for those who suffer from depression and osteoporosis, keeps us warm, and brings us blessings of the harvest. If you live in the city, it’s very hard to know and understand how important the harvest time is. Most of us live in cities where vegetables and fruit are no longer seasonal but are available all year round, and super markets are chock-full of produce all the time. We no longer hunt and gather, and most of us no longer live on farms and rely on the crops for our sustenance in the same way we used to. It is only when we give offerings to the sun and meditate on it’s blessings daily that we can come to be mindful of how lucky we are to have the sun and how much it controls our life even if we live in a city. We can not escape the flow of nature, even in a city. Unfortunately many of us living in cities have become out of touch with the natural cycles of this earth simply because of where we live.

This is a simple ritual to get you more in tune with the energy of the sun. Do this daily in view of the sunrise and outside if possible. If your home prevents you from seeing the east, or you simply cannot get up at sunrise without 5 million cups of coffee, then you can build a little shrine to the sun using a mirror and some objects that remind you of the sun and perform the ritual at this shrine when you wake up. If it is easier for you all together, you can switch to performing this ritual at sunset.

You’ll need:

A yellow candle

Copal or Frankincense resin (if you have incense sticks that is fine too)

A small amount of citrus fruit, water, and rice (or bread) to give as an offering

1. Facing east (or west if performing this at sunset) light your candle and the resin and allow the air to become fragrant. Allow the smell of the incense to fill you and bring you a sense of happiness.

2. Meditate for a few minutes on how the sun blesses you every day. Think of how the sun is busy throughout the day growing your fruits and vegetables, growing your wheat and rice, creating rain, keeping you warm and helping plants create fresh air for you to breathe. 

3. Offer the food and water to the sun with gratitude. Bow deeply and thank the sun for all it does through the day to help you live happily. 

You will begin to learn through this ritual how incredibly blessed you are. You have some of the simplest reasons to be happy because of the sun!

Count your blessings! Be thankful! Start with thanking the sun! 

anonymous asked:

Hi! I don't know whether or not you've googled this yet but yellowing happens because of the water content in the flowers. The water from undried flowers and other plants life makes the resin yellow and ruins their color after curing. Before putting anything organic in resin dry it out before you do and it should turn out fine. Best of luck!

That makes sense! Thank you!!

Ganondorf Cat Cosplay tutorial Part 2!

With Fabrication done it was time to get painting and detailing done. Everyone has their own way of sealing foam up, Personally I use a spray paint black primer and do 2-3 layers.

Normally after that I use model paint acrylics but because of the details on the paint job I added a silver spray paint base. It was a good call because when I made a mistake with the acrylics not only could I fix it with a wet q tip, I could also use the q tip removal to do the actual detailing on smooth edges.

I would later glue tinted fabric to hide these edges

For the cracked chest I taped the underside with several layers of clear packing tape and then poured yellow resin on top carefully moving it around to fill the gaps. Once it dried I was able to peal the tape off from the underside creating the effect.

Most of the gold effects I actually used a gold flake pen for. You can find them near the spray paint in most stores. First time using one so I had to go back over with a little silver to fix the mistakes you see here. But the gold flake pen worked better than expected over the paint.

Next came the gold edging. I’m a big fan of using 3d puff paint (t shirt paint) for these. The bottles usually allow you to do lines fairly well and the paint remains malleable for a bit allowing you to go back over it (Next to it with careful force) with a small tongue depressor to smooth edges.

I still hate my paint job on the cracked breastplate. But the other turned out pretty well. Puff paint for edging and acrylics for the middle.

For the Gerudo fabric I took some white fabric scraps I had and sewed them together and turned them inside out to be long strips. Then I took some earl grey tea, and used the used the tea bag to stain each strip twice. Allowing them to dry in between staining. Tea coloring can’t be beat for that weathered look on fabric/parchment.

I went back to the puff paint for the designs after fabric gluing the strips into the design I needed. However I applied the puff paint with a paintbrush instead of pushing it out allowing for a flat design that still pops. You need to clean your brush immediately if you do this or you’ll really hafta scrub it to clean it later as puff paint likes to stick in the bristles. But its an effective application method.

Skip forward a bit applying the puff paint edging to ALL (Frickin heck) pieces I added small gems I bought and glued them on before taking the puff paint and dabbing small drops all around them for the flowered effect. (They sink as they dry). This shot was done before applying that to the front 2 gems.

Having tested out the fitting of the leather underneath it was time to glue both the leather and the fabric on to the shoulder piece. I used fabri-tac glue after roughing up the leather a bit for a better hold.

Also took this moment to finish the back detailing. Dammit almost none of you get to see this but I know its there!

The details of the cape was going to be too much to duplicate freehand for me… so I made a stencil… 

The circle was for reference.

I needed to secure the stencil more before using the gold spray paint. However I would go back later with black puff paint and sharpen all the edges of both sides of the spray job. Turned out better than I had hopped in the end, and saved a ton of time.

I would fade the edging of the puff paint better with another coat.

time to focus on the undershirts. A child’s sweatshirt turned into the top armor, I doubled over some fake fur and rolled the edge before sewing both on and then sewing the red thread that is present on the sleeves.

Velcro is your friend! The Armguards attach directly to the Gerudo cloth which was sewn unto the undershirt. Its a fast way to add them as the last piece of armor without needing to ‘attach’ anything around your cat’s (Pets) sensitive legs.

Both shirts done. The longsleeve goes on first with the sweatshirt on over.

The neck piece has a simple piece of elastic in the back. It was more comfortable for the cat than attaching it to the breastplate properly so this decision was made even if you can see fur on some pictures.

Next we did a test fitting to see the placement of the velcro for the chest piece…

and also the velcro placement for the shoulder piece to latch unto.

Once we had that all figured out and the velcro secure. I attached the cape to the leather under the shoulder as I had left a small piece near the collar not glued down.

Finally was sewing the eyebrows unto the wig. I pulled wool yarn apart and styled it around strings to make the rolled hair look. Each strip of hair attaching to a thin piece of foam. For the sideburns I rolled pulled yarn around with glue on the foam. Then I glued the loose fur on the backside and pulled it back in a flair. Afterwards I made a head harness with elastic and leather that glued on under everything securing solidly. 

There is a plastic jug side holding the painted foam in place with the edges sewn unto the base. the metal rods actually hold both sides and are secured via the head harness that was glued on. Each gem was sewn to the chain and then hand sewn to the wig after being attached to the large gem.

The eyebrows are connected via a small piece of thread for easier posing.

It slips right on over his chin and ears, you hafta fix the whiskers immediately but I gave his ears plenty of room so it wont irritate him.

And there you have it. A truncated 2 part tutorial of the process we went through to bring you all “Ga’nyan’dorf”

the alfie revamp: part I

Alfie, my modified migidoll ryu on a nobility boy body, is turning nine this year. Nine. I have cousins younger than that. (Fun fact: Alfie arrived to me in the mail on election day, 2008, here in the US. I wasn’t old enough to vote, but I’ve always thought that it was an august and historical day for him to show up to the party, even if things are rather grimmer now). 

As you would expect of a nine year old doll, he’s experienced quite a bit of the usual doll aging - yellowing and resin wear, mostly. He was a little bit dirty, despite having mostly sat inside a satin doll carrier bag for the past three years or so. I last gave him a faceup in 2015, and while it was in okay shape, I was really unhappy with it because it didn’t photograph well. I’m also toying with the idea of undertaking some more extensive additive epoxy modding than what I had previously attempted (minor sanding and nose reshaping). Either way, the faceup and grimy blushed and manicured hands had to be wiped. 

Alfie has yellowed unevenly - while I’ve never stored him in direct light, and try to minimize his light exposure to the occasional sunny photoshoot and otherwise hanging out in dimly lit rooms, he is the doll I take the most risks with, and he’s been through enough in nine years that he looks like this:

Alfie was part of a Volks NS batch of Migidolls, so he’s always had a yellow undertone, and his body matched him pretty well from the start, but as you can perhaps see here his neck and chest are beginning to take on a greenish tinge, and have lightened relative to the inside of the Migi headcap at top right. His face has also experienced this, though to a lesser extent - I’ve always felt that the Migidoll resin was higher quality than the Nobility, both in terms of density and as we see now, lightfastness. 

I haven’t edited these photos for color, so I’m hoping that you can go by what you see, though my camera tends to smooth things out and the yellowing is much more visible in person. But hopefully you can see that his neck, chest, forearms (and particularly the wrists, where the resin is thinner) are lighter and greener than say, his thighs, which are still pretty flesh toned. The same is true of his ankles and toes. Alfie’s spent a lot of his life in a thin white long sleeved dress shirt, which might explain why the yellowing is so advanced across this part of his body (also, he’s old.) 

You can see here that the inside of his neck joint is visibly peachier than the surrounding areas, since it is rarely exposed to light. 

Indeed, his insides still cast a very warm, flesh-toned glow, showing that the yellowing is mainly on the surface. Also his hot glue sueding is dirty and old and needs redoing. 

So, I looked into the whole baking soda and peroxide thing that some people use to try and whiten/de-yellow their dolls, and decided to give it a shot, without really expecting dramatic results. I figured, the worst that could happen is that I give Alfie a much-needed bath after almost a decade. 

I started with a rather diluted mixture of Arm & Hammer baking soda and peroxide toothpaste and pure baking soda in water, and soaked the pieces for about 12 hours, to see what a conservative shot would produce. 

These are some representative pieces, straight out of the 12-hour soak. I really couldn’t tell a difference on larger, thicker pieces like the torso, but I did feel like the hands had lightened up a bit. Based on that, I decided to go back in a little more aggressively. 

I’m not really sure…why I did this, but I coated all the outer surfaces of the doll parts with the Arm & Hammer toothpaste and then wrapped them in damp paper towels (it turns out that keeping the towels damp prevents the toothpaste from drying up into crusty bits that are difficult to remove later, but that’s not why I did it so???). I let that stew for 24 hours. I ended up using almost an entire tube of the toothpaste. My room smelled fantastic for about two days. 

The results? Yeah, there were results, but if you’re going to give this a shot, you should know what the results mean. Here you see post-toothpaste pieces photographed against the migidoll headcap. The body definitely looks less yellow, but that’s mostly because it’s been whitened. In terms of value (light/dark), I think the headcap is now darker. Also, different resin parts whitened at different rates. The hands are now dramatically whiter, but most of the rest of the body is just lightly whitened. I’m okay with this, because having a whiter base will actually make things easier for me when I blush the hands.

Here’s the neck joint again - you can see that there’s still a difference between the yellowed parts of him and the non-yellowed parts, but now the yellowed parts look a little less green. I think that because he’s not yellowed all the way through, whitening the surface allows more of the flesh tone from inside the resin to show through. I have no idea if this will affect how quickly he yellows in the future, but I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get there! 

Here he is almost all strung back together. The light today was somewhat cooler than the day I shot the initial photos, but even accounting for that, I think the way he photographs is noticeably different. Like I said, he’s paler, for sure, but my main priority was to get him to a point where the camera didn’t pick up as much of a green cast from him, and I think this process has done that. 

If you’re interested in trying this out, here are a few things you can take away from my experiment: 

  • Resin will likely lighten. Use discretion about the quantity of baking soda/peroxide you use, and about how long you keep the stuff on your doll. Be prepared to have a paler doll - this isn’t a way to “remove” the yellowing/greening per se while still preserving the original skin tone. 
  • I think how well this works depends on the thickness of the resin and how much the resin has yellowed through. I think the hands in this case whitened the most because they’re relatively thinner and have probably yellowed through more. You might want to either put less baking soda/peroxide on thinner pieces, or keep the paste applied for less them if you want completely uniform whitening. 
  • If you’re going to use toothpaste, definitely get the stuff that’s not colored! The stuff I was using was uncolored. You might encounter some dried bits of crusty toothpaste afterwards in nooks and crannies that’ll take a little extra work to get out. 

Lastly, as I was restringing Alfie, I noticed some worrying resin wear in the bars in his ankle and wrist joints that hold the S-hooks in. Almost a decade of those little metal things digging into the resin while the whole doll is held in pretty intense tension from the elastic has me worried that if I don’t reinforce these soon, they’ll eventually be prone to snapping. 

I’ve got some epoxy putty on the way, and I’m hoping a little bit of reinforcement there will do the trick, at least for now. 

This was a super long post, so thanks so much for reading through if you’re here! Next on the to-do list:

  1. reinforce ankles and wrists
  2. use sculpey to mockup some potential additive facial mods
  3. do the facial mods in epoxy, if I decide to go through with them
  4. repaint Alfie’s face and hands
  5. style his new wig
  6. profit???

See you guys in part two, I guess! 

50Q BJD Meme

I got a bit creative and tired of there being no new BJD meme/questionnaires out there so here, 50 questions for you to have fun with!


1. Have your tastes changed in sculpts over the years?

2. Do you have pre-made characters for the dolls that you get home which must fit a certain description, or, do you get them home and let inspiration hit?

3. What do you do when you get hooked on a particular sculpt and want it home right here, right now but can’t as you have to save or some other reason?

4. How many dolls are too many to you personally?

5. What are your thoughts on dolls with already pre-existing characters from movies/books/cartoons/etc.?

6. Acrylic, glass or urethane? And why?

Keep reading

Gaby’s Green and Cream Racetrack Ensemble - The Man From U.N.C.L.E.

This may just be my favourite ever movie outfit. Everything about it is perfect! Unfortunately, there are very few elements of this outfit that are available for purchase (and the ones that are cost a lot!) but it’s just too lovely to skip. 

The dress is another original design by film costume designer Johanna Johnson. Similar to the orange camo play dress, it has the most beautiful cutout design in the back and it is such a shame that you never actually get to see it in the film.

The dress is also paired with a long cream coat which, considering the co-ordinated green panel on the inner collar, is more than likely another piece designed specifically for the film. 

She also has the most lovely bright yellow small Delvaux Brillant bag.

She wears the same Theirry Lasry Milfy 101 sunglasses as the orange play dress outfit.

I was unable to find exactly which hat she is wearing but it is a fairly generic broad brimmed, white felt design with a ribbon trim.

The shoes she wears with this outfit are a pair of low block heel white and silver sandals. Once again, these look custom made.

Finally so far as her jewellery, she once again wears the second black pearl/listening bug engagement ring that Illya gave her, the same random vintage butter yellow resin ring as well as these gorgeous oversized lucite hoop earrings.

So there you have the full outfit! For a break down of her orange camo play dress outfit check out my other post here. Also, if you wan’t to keep track of all the other outfits I post about in the future please follow. I will also be eventually be posting “get the look for less” suggestions as well as an analysis of her hair and makeup.

I’ve been putting off posting about this for a while now, but I’m seeing more and more people sticking stickers on dolls most likely inspired by me. I started putting stickers and human bandaids on comet ¾ years ago, I am not the best doll owner at all. I don’t usually research things before I do them and just spontaneously modify my expensive dolls as I please. But I’ve noticed that the glue used on the stickers and bandaids can cause the resin to yellow quicker and unevenly. Resin is a very porous material and it absorbs things a lot easier than one would think. Some glues used on stickers and Bandaids are very difficult to remove without some sort of glue remover product which in itself can be bad for the resin. I once left nail polish remover on my dolls head for a little too long and it legit melted the resin around the eye. Chemicals in general are not good for resin so I just thought I’d finally say something about it and to please not just do as I do, I’m very irresponsible with my dolls. I’m a really bad senpai. Lol. I will continue to stick shit on my resin krew bc it’s my style and like I said I am not a good dolly patent.

I suffer from a rare form of illness known as BJDD, or Ball Joint Doll Disease. Symptoms include having an empty bank account and spending too much time on doll-related forums and tumblr. I am starting up a fund to research a cure for BJDD. Of course, much of this research money will be spent acquiring new dolls until I find what makes them so appealing. Our ribbon color is “old resin banana yellow” and if you support us change your facebook picture to an eyeless doll.