What to look for when buying a used Kanna :)
As I’ve discussed in 2 previous articles where I got asked about which Kanna to choose I looked for a certain blade width and tried to determine the blade angle from the sellers photos :)
I got this one from an auction for two reasons, which are to write an article about tuning up this plane and to have a smoothing plane with a different setup on its sole (^-^)
There are a few things to take into consideration before buying a plane.
-What do you want to do with it?
-Do you want to use it as a smoother?
-Do you want to salvage the blades?
-Is this your first Kanna?
-Which possibilities do you have at home?
-Do you have another plane to condition its sole?
-Do you have a good set of chisels?
-Do you have winding sticks or a flat reference surface?
When you are looking for a plane to get ready without putting a lot of work into it you need to look for a Dai without a lot of cracks and a lot of thickness/life left in it a blade with little to no rust.
The thickness of the Dai is important for 2 reasons, first it means you can use it for a longer period of time, second the mouth will be tighter which gives you more possibilities for using it :)
A new Dai has usually a thickness of 35 mm ;)
The blade should have very little pitting :)
Pitting means that the rust has eaten little dents that ate into the steel of the blade. This means this material is gone for good you cannot restore these parts.
You need to grind the surrounding material down until it is at the same level as the bottom of the dent which is a lot of work (>_<;)
I did this a lot and I don’t think you should stay away from these but you need to be aware that this means a lot of work and wear on your stones :|
Restoring a lot of pitted blades is the reason why I wear out one 240 grit stone every 1 ½ years :D <=the ones I use are 50 mm thick (^-^;)
So, yes it is possible and very rewarding to fix up a badly rusted blade but it requires skill, patience and it can go wrong too.
I had a blade where the pitting reached through the hard steel right to the soft iron which ruined the blade because you cannot get a consistent layer of steel for the cutting edge.
In my case I got very lucky with this plane the blade has only surface rust and no real pitting on it. The cap iron however has some pitting on the bevel which is not too critical :)
The cross pin that hold the cap iron can sit loose but this is easy to fix (as long as there are no cracks ;)
it should be clean but a little rust is usually okay :)
The top edges of the plane should not be ragged and rounded over.
The back corners can show some checking due to the hammering it took while adjusting the blades but if they do not go too far (they shouldn’t reach the grooves that hold the blade :) these are okay.
The Dai quite often check right behind the grooves that hold the blades and this is okay as long as the Dai is not completely cracked but you need to address this during the tune up and this usually means more work :)
This happens when you store the blade under tension or forget to adjust the fit of the blade in the Dai.
The front and back can crack as well.
The reason for splits in the front of the Dai is usually a poor selection of wood for the Dai which you cannot repair. It can be usable but it won’t be a good smoothing or finishing plane.
The back usually splits because someone hit the Dai in a bad way, either too close to the sole or with the edge of an hammer…. but can also crack due to a bad selection of the lumber used on it.
The area holding the blade should be flat and on this one it looks rather butchered but it is not too bad :)
The thick iron layer of the blades usually eat up the vibrations and prevent any impact this might have on your cut :)
The blade should not stick out of the bottom of the Dai right out of the box. It should have a minimum of 3 mm before it reached the bottom of the blade :)
This one has 3,5 mm from the cutting edge to the bottom of the Dai which is just right (^-^)
The ends of the Dai don’t matter too much but I like them to be smooth so them don’t catch on your clothes and look more tidy :)
It also mean that you can detects checks and cracks more easily ;)
The edges on the front and the back of the sole should be as sharp as possible to act like a scraper to prevent the dust on the wood to get in-between the sole and the wood :)
On this one the edges got rounded over (^-^;) <=I’ll fix that…
So to recapitulate :)
-No cracks in the Dais front and back.
-No pitting on the back of the blade unless you are prepared for failure ;)
-No cracks in the blade either ;)
-Smooth surface on the Dai :)
-A thick Dai for a long life :)
This article cannot replace gaining your own experiences and knowledge on this topic but I hope it will help at least a little :)
This week was kind of weird to me but okay :D
I just wish I would be faster at writing my thesis (>_<;)
I often wish I had someone to cuddle with though.
I will go to some events this weekend though :)
I wish everyone a great time, someone to cuddle and sweet dreams (^-^)/