Menswear vs Resort // McQueen // Bainser Rants a little
In starting this blog I looked at others and as witty and as catty some might be initially the successful ones tended to grow up beyond that. Sure venting has its place but I deliberately chose not to. There are countless others out there who are happy to be harpies screaming into the wind. Not so many people are genuinely championing the successful or offering support rather than slating. I’ve broken this golden rule pretty much only once, and that was to ask Kanye to climb out of his own backside and produce some great music again. I even have high hopes for his forthcoming fashion range. Why? Because he’s comes across as genuinely passionate and has made the effort to learn how to design and the actual craft of making clothes. Something most celeb ‘designers’ just do not do.But he’s not the target of today’s rant.
No no, its a much more surprising target. McQueen!
I know! I know! Me having beef with the house of McQueen! Impossible! Next I’ll be telling you my image of Tom Ford is getting tarnished…erm…well anyway moving on.
The thing is I am still deeply in love with pretty much everything McQueen produces. I think Sarah Burton has an incredible eye and talent. Her last womenswear collection rocked it! Oh and by last collection I mean the mini Resort collection that debuted just a few days ago. It was stunning. Leather, cotton, tulle, all given the amazing McQueen treatment. Striking powerful cuts. Drama and romance. Everything we love from the house.
Genuinely fantastic pieces.
But hold on, wasn’t this week the Menswear shows in Milan? It was indeed, and this is where I’m left annoyed. The Menswear collection left many people a little cold. It felt incomplete and disjointed. Why the random flame jacket and shirt? Where was the drama? Where was the dynamic and dangerous? The whole collection felt, well bland. Last seasons military chic and strong colours, shapes and styles I thought heralded a return to form. I was excited again by the shapes, the tailoring and the whole experience. But this? No. Sorry.
I was happy to write it off. Everyone has off seasons, the pressures on designers is immense. But the very next day this stunner of a Resort collection arrives.
Now to those outside of fashion, Resort & Cruise are just names. But the fact is they have traditionally been mini seasons. Smaller capsule collections to drop newness into store midway through the larger season. It’s only in the last couple of years they have even been shown or presented on any scale at all, as it all takes place outside of the show season. Chanel’s resort collections are now lavish affairs, and it’s only a matter of time before the other houses follow suit.
So what’s my problem?
I just feel a little cheated. No, I don’t work in the McQueen studio, no I haven’t seen the design process in action in house, but looking at the two collections, one looks like it’s had more than it’s fair share.
Menswear will for a long time to come play second fiddle to womenswear. It’s something we’re used to. But surely, even if its in terms of sales a Resort collection can not be worth more than a whole season of menswear.
I know I’m spitting my dummy out like a petulant child, that’s seen his sister be given a shinier new toy than his. I don’t care. Menswear may be smaller than womenswear, but it’s a growing market. Men are becoming more adventurous, stepping outside the box and moving forward. We deserve a collections just as complete as womenswear. Without them how will men’s fashion continue to grow?
So there you have it. The toys-out-a-pram rant of a man that simply wants something better. A cohesive and daring men’s collection from a fashion house he loves and admires. If other houses can do it, why can’t McQueen. C'mon Ms Burton, I’ve seen the work you did last season. I’ve seen what you can do with womenswear channeling the anger and drama into something romantic, earthy and beautiful. Give us boys some credit.
Photo Credit: Style.com