wire shaping

Magical Tip: simple faery curio

Not all faery offerings have to be useful like food and reflective mirrors. They can simply be lovely little trinkets!
•A necklace charm
•a bead with a hook, like an ornament
•a bracelet you’ll never wear again
•an earring that’s lost its match
•a gumball-machine ring
•a shiny penny (bc they’re drawn to copper)
•a fancy button
•tinfoil shapes
•jewelry wire shapes
•clay shapes
•pipe-cleaner shapes
•a string of beads
•a tiny seashell
•an acorn wrapped in tinfoil
•a twig with a bead glued to the end like a wand
•a stupid pizza-table painted with nail polish
•any bottle cap at all, flat clear plastic packaging, tape or glue the plastic over the cap after putting glitter or seed-beads inside to make a little pretty shaker thing


A rare Paul Poiret ensemble for his famous One Thousand and Second Night party, 10th January 1914

Fuchsia velvet harem pants with attached nude organza bodice richly overlaid with bands of Russian silver bobbin lace, with pearl beaded ankle bands; worn under a cloth of silver tunic with long trained hem, raised fuchsia velvet botehs embroidered in silver thread and seed pearls to the chest closure, entirely edged in large pearl beads; the elaborate conical cloth of gold headdress adorned with emerald and sapphire ‘jewelled’ medallions, with wing-shaped wired silver lace side panels and earring-like pearl droplets to each side, topped by ostrich plumes

Kerry Taylor Auctions

anonymous asked:

Hi Fia! It's the last week of classes for me, and this week promises to be especially awful, with very limited time for self-care. Could we see a snippet from Anabasis of Anakin doing some kind of self-care?

Good luck to you this week, anon!

Okay, here’s a snippet from later in the story, carved out to avoid too many spoilers.

In which self care is building yourself a new arm:

She found him in the smaller sitting room just off the veranda. It was a room she’d used only infrequently for less formal meetings, but Anakin had been living here only a few days and she was already beginning to think of it as his workroom. Jothra had appeared that morning with an impressive collection of parts and tools, most of which Padmé couldn’t identify, and Anakin had disappeared with them almost immediately, a childlike grin of anticipation lighting his face.

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“Endless, endless…don’t you see? This is what my destiny is!” 

sh…rug? My dreams never make sense. Fever dreams, much less so. Micolash had some kind of final form in this one, where he was turning into a Great One. He kept fuckin’ talking, too. Like. He wouldn’t stop talking. Actually, he ended up being eaten by a Great One mid-sentence but he was pretty chill about it all.


Hello everyone!! I know every witch (whether you be a solitary, green, kitchen coven oriented, Pagan, Druid, Heathen, Wicca, Celtic, Norse or any other kind) celebrates the holidays differently. I personally love making wreaths for each holiday that I leave up until the next. I try as often as I can to use natural material but as I live in North Eastern Canada, there is barely grass poking through let alone wild flowers and leaves. So, I have gone to Michael’s to purchase my materials (except for the glue gun, the wire hanger and the tape. These I had at home)

So, here is my Wreath Tutorial!

Step 1: You want to shape a wire hanger into the best circle you can get. (Pliers may be needed for the corners as they can be stubborn)

Step 2: Get some painting tape and wrap it as tightly as you can around the width of the hanger. (this is so the wire is thicker for the glue and the glue sticks better)

Step 3: Get your floral materials together and start picking and choosing your first material. You generally want to start with thick, leafy material in order to cover the tape. Don’t worry if there are spots that are not covered, it will get fuller, I promise! Also, many of the floral materials you can purchase will have wires inside! Use them to your advantage to save glue and make it look more natural. If you are using natural products, a lot of glue will be needed unless you are using coniferous branches. These are pretty pliable.

Step 4: Once you get as much as the tape covered as you think you want, start with one color of flower (or leafs if you re doing a fall one, or pine cones or what not for winter)You want to start to fill in the spots where you can see the tape. Remember to mix it up. The direction and placement of the flowers shouldn’t all be uniform or it won’t look as … natural.

Step 5: Keep doing this for the other flowers colors. Add as many as you want, but remember that the first flowers you start with may end up being chocked out with all the other colors, so remember moderation. 

Now, this step is optional.

Step 6: Use twigs and other flowers to create a unique pentagram to hang in the middle of the wreath. Be sure to measure the twigs to fit in the middle of the wreath. I use ribbon the bind it in a knotted fashion and add ribbon to make it look nicer and brighter.

Just remember to make it your own, to have fun and try your hardest not to burn your finger tips TOO bad!

I hope you all enjoyed this and that if you decide to make one, it turns out the way you want it!

Blessings for you and your family and friends this Ostara!

Items in a Ravenclaw’s Bag
  • Peppermints
  • Pretty pieces of string and ribbon
  • A notebook full of short poems and torn out pages
  • Teabags (unused)
  • Broken quills and hastily rolled pieces of parchment
  • Small, flat items that are intended for use as bookmarks 
  • Gloves
  • Old ticket stubs
  • A favorite book
  • Money stuffed in a small, worn wallet
  • Pieces of jewelry that were taken off and then forgotten
  • A stick of interesting shape
  • Wire
  • A few of whatever they’re currently collecting (stamps, rocks, e.t.c.)

Gryffindor / Slytherin / Ravenclaw / Hufflepuff

I get a lot of questions about what I use to make sculptures so when I cleaned up my work space (aka the kitchen table), I took the opportunity to take some pictures of the stuff I use.
Under the read more you’ll find :

  • Pictures
  • Materials and tools I use
  • My painting set up
  • Tips
  • Information

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January’s Incident 1998

January, 1998 

        It was a chilly Friday evening when Dylan’s car slowly rolled by a large white van that had been sitting on the side of the road a few blocks away from Dylan’s house. It’s been there for almost three weeks and to the best of their knowledge no one they knew owned it, or had moved it since then.

Eric leaned forward in his seat, to try and get a glimpse of what was inside. All he could make out were large objects and electrical wires.

“I wonder what’s inside it.” Eric said aloud, as he turned his neck & the van grew smaller and smaller as Dylan’s car continued to drive by.

“You wanna take a look?” Dylan asked.

Eric turned to face him fully and gave him a quizzical look. “You want to just waltz up to a van in the middle of no where and see what’s in it?”

Dylan shrugged, “I don’t see why not.”

Eric grinned massively making Dylan chuckle, “I’ll take that as a yes.”

Soon Dylan’s car was pulling into an unfamiliar driveway before pulling out & turning around. Then they were well on their way to cause some mischief.

Dylan pulled his car to a stop ten feet away from the van, before turning to Eric.

“What’s the plan baby?”

 “I think I saw some electrical wires in the front seat. So if there are wires, then there must be more electrical equipment. We need wires for the propane bombs, and timers. I could make use of the other stuff if it’s worth anything.” 

A few moments passed before Eric waved his index finger in an up & downward motion at Dylan as he spoke. “The trick to stealing is to just take it like you own it, so we just gotta walk up to the van like we own it, open it, & take the stuff out like its our damn job.” Eric ended his full proof plan with a snap of his fingers. Satisfied with the quality of what he had concocted in a short amount of time. 

Dylan playfully snapped his fingers back at Eric and said, “Except, we don’t have the keys.”

Eric chuckled while waving his hands dismissively, “Oh Dylan, you sweet boy. We don’t need keys.” Drawling out the last sentence as if it was obvious.

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Seiko Kimura Wig Tutorial

Many people have been requesting a tutorial for this wig ever since I suggested making one after posting my photos online. I’m very happy and thankful for all the positive feedback on my wig and cosplay. This is my very first tutorial for anything, I hope it is clear and helpful. I’m also in the process of creating a YouTube video version of this tutorial. So with that, let’s get started on the tutorial! (under the cut) 

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[click for larger, do not re-post or pin]

So I first got an anon asking ‘If you made EOS into a person, what would she look like?’ back in 2015…

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Wings tutorial

In this tutorial we’re going to show you how we made our god tier wings, though you may use this for any kind of translucent wing.

There are basically pictures of Feferi’s wings (though some of them are Eridan’s since we took the photos whenever we remembered to do so), but well, both of them were done at the same time and in the same way.

Before we get started we believe it’s important to say that, even though the result looks great and it’s pretty comfortable, it takes a lot of time to make those wings (or  was it us since we’re pretty much newbies?).

Let’s get started~

1. Thick wire

2. Spray of the color of your wings

3. Organza fabric

4. Hot glue gun + silicone rods

5. Velcro (Hook-and-loop-tape)

1. Make a paper pattern with the desired shape because it makes it easier to try them on and see how they will look like and also to shape the wings so they are even.

2. Take the wire and shape it following the pattern. Make sure you flatten the wing, since this will make it easier to add the fabric afterwards. Start the wing from the inner part, the one where the other wing will be attached. Join the end of the wire curling it up, we added some tape to make it even and also to secure it. Don’t cut all the extra wire, leave some, since you’ll need it later on.

3. Spray the wire so even if it can be seen through the fabric it won’t stand out.

Note: It took us forever to get the right shape…You don’t need as much extra wire as in the picture, 15-20 cm is enough. If you leave more wire than needed it’ll be more difficult to handle the wings and to sew the fabric.

4. Time for the organza. It’s a beautiful fabric, but it tends to fray and wrinkle. Put the fabric on a flat surface and place the wing on it. Draw the outline and cut the fabric following the shape. It’s okay even if it doesn’t come up exactly the same.

Note 1: That’s the sheer organza.

Note 2: You need to cut leaving some space on the edge.

5. Once you’ve cut the fabric, take the silicone and glue the organza to the wire. Be patient since it’s pretty easy to make silicone globs. We glued the fabric slowly, slightly rolling it up to the wire and flatting it up with a toothpick.

Note: Here you can see how the fabric looks once it’s been glued and also the globs we were talking about. Don’t worry if you also get globs, later on we’ll conceal them. We hope you don’t get as burnt with the silicone as we did.

Note: A lot of people interpret the god tier wings differently than we do, that’s to say: They make the edges translucent and the inside duller. We did it the other way around, which let us make the edges darker so we could camouflage better the wire and the silicone globs :=B

6. Time to add the drawings of the wing. Make a paper pattern; try it on the wings and when you think it’s alright cut it on the fabric leaving some space on the edges just as you did before. Now fold the edge and iron it, put it on the wing, baste it and finally sew it.

Note: By folding the edges of the fabric you can avoid it from fraying without needing to top it off with silicon or anything like that. Also, it makes a darker edge so the drawing stands out more.

7. Let’s start with the flange:

A: Make a long textile strap about 6cm wide (or however you like, just take into account that you’ll have to fold it into four parts). If you don’t have enough fabric, just sew different straps between them, at the end it won’t stand out too much.

B. Fold the straps in half and iron them.

C. Fold both parts of the straps to the inside so when you sew them they stay unseen.

D. When you have the whole strap finished, you only have to sew it around the wing. This step takes a lot of time so take it easy

Note 1: Those may not be the best pictures to explain the flanges part, but the black wire is supposed to simulate the wire of the wing, although at this point it already has the fabric…Well, the point is that the strap is sewed taking both sides of the wing.

Note 2: When you get to the part where there’s the extra wire, just poke a hole into the fabric and put some transparent nail polish so it won’t fray.

8. Now it’s time to attach the wings between them. Try the wings on to see which distance suits your needs and shape the extra wire into two hooks. We added a little bit of silicone at the end of the wire so it wouldn’t’ be an inconvenience (or rip the fabric). Take a piece of fabric or some random strap and try it one once more to see which distance fits you best  on the upper part. Make two straps like the ones you made for the flange of the wings with the desired distance. These ones will have to be wider, specially the one you’ll use to cover the wire which joins the wings. If you do this part like this you’ll be able to fold your wings, which will make it easier to handle them and also to store them afterwards c:

9. Now the restraint system. There are people that just fasten the wings by the neck; we prefer to do so and also around the waist. Take a strap or some string and attach it with pins to the edges of the wing where you put the top strap (the one without wire inside), try it on your neck and fix the measurement. Afterwards measure your waist and make one more strip to make a belt, sew a piece of Velcro on each edge of the strap and it’s done. Sew both straps to the wings as you can see in the drawing below.  Once you’ve done this, take some string and tie it to both straps, this will help tighten the wings and it will also prevent you from being strangled.

Note 1: When you make the strap for the neck you have to take into account how wide is the neck of your shirt or hood, because the wider the opening, the longer you’ll have to make the strap so it won’t be seen.

Note 2: If you’ve got boobs, you will most likely look like some anime girl. We don’t have any explanation for the 90’s (?) anime’s wrinkles on the t-shirt, we didn’t think their existence was even possible.

10. And lastly, to put the strap around the waist we recommend opening two holes on the back of the t-shirt.


Ask us if you’ve got any questions, we’re not so good at making tutorials and English is not our first language u_____u

Spanish version here

I must share this winning moment from Microsoft.

I have five Controller that could theoretically be used on PC. A third Party wired 360 controller shaped like a Batarang. A third party XBox One Controller (Though both of these were made by Power A, they are officially licences through Microsoft). An official Xbox One Controller. An official PS4 Controller. And a Steam Controller.

While I love the customability of the Steam controller, I find there are games that really need that second joystick. For those I use my trusty 360 Batarang. I’ve had it for six years and had been my go to controller for a while. But yesterday when i plugged it in I got Code:43, which loosely translates to ‘What the eff did you plug into me?” I did the troubleshooting but nothing worked. (The assign drivers trick looked promising, but there was nothing that said 360 CONTROLLER, which there should have been. I even redownloaded the drivers off Microsoft’s website, nothing)

But you know, six years is a long run for a third party controller. I mourned it’s passing and began to look for a replacement.

Today I remembered XB1 controllers work as PC Controllers and plugged mine it. I didn’t get a code 43, but all it was listed as in the device manager was USB 3.0

I began to suspect the problem wasn’t with my batarang.

I Have since tried every conceivable controller (which as I said totaled to five) and I found two that worked. The Steam controller and PS4 one.

In other words, only the controllers neither made or certified by Microsoft are capable of working on my Microsoft system.

AquarianValentine’s Glorious Troll Horn Fabrication Guide

so hey i could get  all fancy with a ridiculous and self aggrandizing intro, but frankly its already pretty late and this will take long enough as it is. Basically most ways to make troll horns either don’t turn out good enough, are way too expensive, or are the plush monstrosities at the what pumpkin store. So using whatever i could find lying around the house, i crafted a pair of amporas i used for cosplaying, and i must say they came out better than expected. The rest of this post will be explaining how you can make a pair yourself. So you’re welcome

Step One: Materials

You’ll require 

1 Wire coat hangar, the more malleable the better

1 roll of aluminum foil, you want use all of it, dont worry

an unspecified amount of regular glue, not a lot, as well as access to some water and a washable cup 

1 paintbrush, doesnt have to be fancy

Several sheets of colored tissue paper, in the horn colors. Alternatively you could use plain white paper and then just paint/marker the colors on instead, which would certainly work; however this requires fewer steps. 

i mean this is pretty cheap stuff, right? none of that weird polymer clay stuff, which is bound to cost you

optional: i would suggest finding a hammer or pair of pliers, it makes bending the wire a lot easier, it will save you a lot of pain in your fingers. but maybe dont take my advice. what is art without suffering after all?

Step 2: basic head shape

this is for the basic shape that the head band part will take, pretty much regardless of whatever troll you are doing. A pair of full on Nitrams might require some more support, but idfc, its your problem for cosplayin a lowwblood like them, not mine. anyways

first youll need to bend out the wire, untwisting the top hook, and into this basket shape. its your starting point, and it should be pretty easy

then, youll need to bend the bottom piece of wire into this headband shape, making sure to keep the remaining spans of wire perpendicular to the plane created by the loop. doesnt have to be perfect, but it helps for later on.

now bend the two ends back onto themselves, so that they are parallel with the headband, but not touching! if you were to put it on your head, you should lightly feel it curving over the top of your head with the small horseshoes on both sides sitting directly BEHIND your ears (the Do Not loop under your ears, if they get snagged i would place my bets on the horns over your ear skin), and the end pieces hovering over your temples. now if you have a smaller head than i do, which is likely you poor poor saps, youll probably need to bend the wire a bit higher on the headband piece, making it so theres less of the headband and more of the end pieces. this will help it fit better, and not rub against your ears unpleasantly. if you scroll down a bit there is a picture of how it rests on my head, and roughly how it should on yours. 

now, you need to bend the end pieces towards each other, which translates to bending them into your temples. not uncomfortably, but enough so you can feel them.

Here you can see ive bent the endpieces out again, about where you want the base of the horns to sit. i prefer the idea that the horns sit just behind the temples, but you have the capability to make it as you please.

this is the start of a more tricky maneuver, but its rather vital for the horns stability. i call it the lock bend. first you need to straighten out the very end of the wire, without bending the work youve done so far. then, youll put the indent pictured into it. its important that its shaped like this, with the spiral at the end still in line with the main portion of it. 

now, bend that key like segment back onto itself, so its parallel with the main section of wire. its okay if they are touching now, its supposed to be rather compact.

not pictured: removing that hook by repeatedly bending it back and forth in the place where i wanted it to break. yeah basically do what you just did to the other side, they dont have to visually match, as long as a pattern is present on both sides. you are probably wondering AV, that was complex and painful, why did you make me do it? to which i respond i am but a humble space player, your thoughtless actions are on your own head bud. however, there is intent to my rambling. i hope. but it is called a lock bend because when the tinfoil is wrapped around it, it stops it from moving about, thus locking the horns in place. 

and thats what it should look like so far! that is also the end of the basic shape, everything from now on will be based on what specific pair i am making.

but before we move on

this is roughly where they sit on my head. eventually the front will be moved up a bit, but its close enough. 

IMPORTANT, DO NOT SKIP   for how it should feel to your head, you should only be able to really feel it in four places, where the horseshoes touch your head behind your ear, and where the base of the horns will be on your temple. thats it! the headband should be hardly noticeable. also, the places that touvh your head should have a firm presence there, but they should NOT hurt. dont worry, the whole thing is so light they dont need to be tight, and they will still stay on all day. Seriously, these things hold so well i went to a rave with them on and they held just fine. only thing they cant handle is headbanging. i was a little disappointed at that, but oh well. anyways, if your horns are too loose, just bend them in at the the four places, the temples and behind the ears on both sides. but they should not get so tight as to immediately cause discomfort. after a whole day of con going they can get a bit uncomfortable, but just moving them a bit fixes that.

Part 3: Magnificent Maryams

who i think would appreciate some pleasant alliteration every once and a while. specifically i am doing Porrim’s, so they will be slightly bigger than kanaya’s.

here, rip a sheet of aluminum foil off the roll, about the length that you think you will need for the height of the horns. dont fret over this part, its very malleable.

put the edge of the tinfoil between the lock bend and the main piece of wire, and proceed to start wrapping foil around the wire. you will want to compact it down to the wire as much as you can, this is the base of the horn, and will be used to determine the length.

look at how big that is, and straight! it wouldnt do at all for our darling porrim. so i bent that one (also, remember kids, images in the mirror are flipped, so for non symmetrical horns make sure you have the right side where its supposed to be, because i almost didnt) and pushed down and bent the wire itself a bit, to give it the slow graceful curve i was looking for.

see? much better! now all it needs is a few more layers of tinfoil 

dont those babies look swell? make sure to have them be thicker at the base, and i would compact them at the top so they are stronger. and although you cant see it in this picture, the very bottoms of them are flat and at an angle so they are flush with my skull, which looks very nice. if youve gotten this far, you aught congratulate yourself, for you are very courageous! and dont worry, its almost over.

Part 4: applying the colors

now it seems i erred and did not take any pictures of this process. oh well, its all rather self explanatory. first mix a bit of glue and water together in the container, it doesnt really matter concentration wise, just get your finger tips wet and if they are a bit sticky you are good. 

then, take the paint brush, dip it in the slimy solution, and paint a bit of it onto the horns, and put a little piece of the colored tissue paper onto the horns. obviously, make sure the colors go where they are supposed to, there should be no tinfoil left when you are done, actually eeach color should have several layers. since my yellow was a bit too pale for my tastes, i put a layer of the orange underneath it, and that worked for me, but you might not need to do this. 

a couple hours later, and they are all dry! they are ready to go to your convention now, or maybe just around the house. idk, do whatever you want with them.Good job! you made it to the end of this large and rather incoherent crafts guide on how to make an aliens horns. this whole post took as long as actually making the horns, so around 2.5 hours. i am so tired right now. its 4 am. id be more than happy to answer any questions you may have in the comments. heres a picture of me wearing them

thanks for reading and hopefully learning something, and if you like them please reblog for visibility, thank you kindly,


Touka Kirishima (Kagune)

So these wings were a trek and a half. It took me roughly 3-4 days to complete. This is a quick, cheap way to make it if you’ve got only a few days before a con. (I just finished them with only 1 day to spare…)

First, you’re going to need these things:
1.) Cardboard (Or anything that serves a similar purpose)
2.) A pencil
3.) Scissors or something to cut the cardboard
4.) Spray Paint (Yellow, Red, Black)
5.) Wire (Preferably something very sturdy… I used 12 gauge wire and just twisted it around itself several times to make it stronger)
6.) Elastic Bands
7.) A good-fitting bra (Or anything that serves a similar purpose)
8.) Thin metal rods.
9.) Industrial Stapler
10.) A rectangular piece of wood (This will make sense later)
11.) Also, lots of hot glue…

Okay, so take your cardboard and cut it into three pieces: one big one and two smaller ones.

Draw the shape that you want the wings to take and cut them out. 

Now it’s time to paint! I pained the yellow first. Only a tiny bit of the yellow shows, so don’t go crazy with it. You only need to buy a small canister of it. Then I covered it with red, and then painted the tips black. Let them dry between coats otherwise it’ll just be a mess. I painted both sides and even though there were markings on the back of the cardboard, the paint managed to cover it.

What I didn’t take a picture of is me shoving thin metal rods into the wings. The rods that I had were thin enough to fit through the two layers of cardboard. Be very careful with this step! You don’t want to puncture either side of the wings. I put one in the small pieces and two in the big piece.

Now comes the harness, which was by far the biggest pain in my butt. I really just figured it out by trial and error. Since I’m wearing her school girl uniform, I used my bra as a harness. I took the wire and formed it into a kind of curved oval shape and tucked it into my bra. (You will unfortunately need someone to put these wings on for you. I hope you have some good friends.) Make sure there’s a loop at the top. That’s very important to holding the wings in place.

Now you want to cut a piece of cardboard in a “T” shape. 

Now the top of the “T” is two pieces of cardboard and the bottom part is just one. This is where I wish I’d done things differently. Looking back, I would have used that thin, rectangular piece of wood and sandwiched it between the two pieces of cardboard. That way the base is much more sturdy, which is important.

I attempted to hot glue the three pieces to the top part of the “T”, but that didn’t work out so well. What did work out was using an industrial stapler and stapling the hell out of them. It worked great and I’m not worried about them falling now. 

Ready for the fun part? Now that “T” shaped cardboard goes into the oval shaped wire. It’s confusing and if you need me to clear anything up, feel free to message me, but I’ll try to explain it. 

The base of the cardboard part of the “T” goes behind the clasp of the bra and down into the part of the wire that’s curved upwards. This holds the cardboard in place, but you also need to fold down the piece of wire at the top to make sure it’s not going anywhere. 

And that’s it! They’re done! 
The difficult part is cutting the shirt wide enough so that the wings can stick through. It’s definitely not pretty from the back, so if you’re planning on making the back look good, I would find another tutorial. This was a very urgent few days and I didn’t have enough time to really make it the way I want it.

Maybe in the future, I’ll remake it…

Anyways, that’s all! Ask me if you have any further questions. I know I’m not great at explaining things.