windowpane jacket

o’shea robertson & julian schneyder for british gq | ph nick leary 

Fight off the cold with this grey windowpane Sauma jacket. Paired here with Alessandro Gherardi Soft shirt, Sauma tie, Christian Kimber handkerchief and Eredi Chiarini scarf.

Arnold Rothstein is one of the most famous real-life historical characters to feature in Boardwalk Empire.  He is a gambler through and through.  Rothstein perceives most matters, private and personal, through a gambler’s eye.  His intellect and strategy formulation are two of his strongest traits.

Rothstein’s gambling and business activities involve very substantial sums of money; hence his standard of living and manner of dressing are of very high quality.  Whether in his opulent Manhattan home or somewhere along the East Coast for business, Rothstein maintains a professional appearance.

Rothstein wears only three-piece suits.  Of the same generation as Nucky, his clothing has similarities to his Atlantic City business partner/rival/partner once more but is slightly less showy.  Rothstein’s suits range from blue or black with white pinstripe to the above brown/sand with faint red windowpane check.  His suit jackets are mostly single-breasted, with a single rear vent, peak lapels and a 3-roll-2 button formation.  They usually incorporate a straight, flapped pocket at each hip, with a welted left chest pocket and vertical pleat on each side of the chest.

Most, but not all of Rothstein’s waistcoats have notch lapels.  They have a six-button fastening, and four welted pockets.  He usually wears a pocketwatch with the chain passing through the third buttonhole. 

Similar to Nucky in the early years of the 1920s and in contrast to his younger associates, Rothstein wears high quality shirts with stiff, detachable club collars.  We can see in the frame above (as Luciano assists Rothstein change his collar and tie) the pin that holds the collar to the front of the shirt placket; there is likely a similar pin at the rear.

A visual trademark of Rothstein’s is his plethora of bowties.  They are all tied by hand, and he wears them in a very wide variety of 1920s style patterns and colours.

As the decade progresses, by 1924 Rothstein wears on occasion silk neckties, held in place by a jewelled pin through the main body of the tie into the placket of his shirt.

When travelling or conducting business out in the fresh air, Rothstein typically wears on his head a grey or dark brown homburg.  To keep cool, in summer months he is sometimes seen wearing a straw boater.  Rothstein’s choice of topcoat is a single-breasted, peak lapel piece in a striking but moderate shade of blue.  It fastens with three buttons, and has a single rear vent.  The rear of the collar is a contrasting black felt.  This fine coat has three external pockets: an inwardly slanted flapped pocket at the chest, and larger flapped pockets at the hips.

Michael Bastian Three-Button Jacket 
Michael Bastian keeps surprising us with these pieces that have an old-man cool element to them. The windowpane is one of those patterns we thought was dead forever, and then Michael brings it back and recolors it in this rust and olive, out of a scratchy wool. It works as a piece of outerwear in the early fall, and then when it’s freezing outside you can pair with a shirt and tie and wear it in the office or a turtleneck and jeans on the weekend—it’s incredibly versatile. Because of the way Michael has cut it and fashioned it, it’s something incredibly non-traditional, but still has that traditional appeal.