when you flip your canvas horizontally

Here are some Photoshop tips and tricks that I wish I’d known when I started digital painting. The shortcuts are for Photoshop CS6, but they should be similar across versions.

  • Flip your canvas while sketching. This will make anatomical flaws painfully obvious and may help you work out areas you’re having trouble with. You may literally recoil in horror when you flip it (I know I have), but after you fix the mistakes and flip it back your drawing will look much better. (Image > Image rotation > Flip canvas horizontal).
  • Liquify is your best friend for fixing your sketch. It allows you to push and pull sections of your drawing around so you can fix little things without having to redraw them a million times. However, it will slightly blur the areas you push around so don’t use it on your final images because you’ll loose some detail. (Filter > Liquify…).
  • Adjust the brush presets for smoother lines. Photoshop’s default brushes have spacing set to 25% for some bizarre reason; reducing the spacing to 1% will give you smoother lines. (Brush panel > Spacing > 1%).
  • Rename and rearrange your brush presets. Save brush settings you like, delete the ones you don’t use, and test/rename all the brushes you download to avoid cluttering up your presets and streamline your process. Everyone loves trying new brushes, but I always end up going back to the same 5. You can also rearrange your workspace under the Window menu.
  • Blend your colours while painting by selecting the intermediate colour. Okay, everyone and their mom has probably told you that blending with the intermediate colour is far superior to the Blur and Smudge Tools. What they usually fail to mention is that you can quickly select any colour on your canvas by holding the ALT key while using the Brush Tool. (I’ve programmed one of the hot keys on my tablet to be ALT so I can select colours quickly while painting without having to switch to Eyedropper Tool or Colour Picker).
  • Use Clipping Masks to restrict your painting to a specific area. Need 12 layers to get the right skin tone but tired of erasing the edges of each one so they line up perfectly? Use a clipping mask to prevent a layer from exceeding the boundaries of the layer below it. (Layers panel > new layer > RIGHT CLICK > Create clipping mask).
  • Test your colour and tone variety by taking them to the extreme. Using adjustment layers that max out the saturation of you painting will give you a clear idea of the colours you’ve used and the overall hue of your piece. Another adjustment layer minimizing saturation will make it obvious where you need to add more light or shadow to boost your contrast. (Layers panel > Create new fill or adjustment layer > Hue/saturation… > Saturation set to +100 or -100).
  • Make your painting more cohesive with Curves. Curves will adjust the overall hue and tone of your painting, which can quickly tie all of your elements together and add atmosphere. You can also adjust Levels and Brightness/Contrast in the same way. (Layers panel > Create new fill or adjustment layer > Curves…)

anonymous asked:

yo you got any essential features of photoshop? like right now ive basically only just discovered the thing where you make a layer that doesnt go outside of the lines of the layer you connected it to. i was just wondering since youve got some crazy effects in your art that i probably couldnt replicate without serious manhours

Haha you mean clipping masks? Ah man I do a lot of stuff subconsciously so I don’t really think about it much but uhh… some random things:

- holding shift lets you draw in a straight line. putting your stylus down on a certain point then holding shift and touching another part of the canvas connects the dots

- to make a quick glow: set a new layer to Screen and airbrush a bright color over the area. adjust opacity accordingly.

- you can use gaussian blur to quickly indicate depth (blurring the background or foreground)

- if your values are messed up you can go into Curves and fiddle with it. no need to repaint anything lol

- ctrl + h hides the marching ants that show up when you make a selection. the selection is still there and you can deselect easily with ctrl + d

- if you drew something and you realize it’s out of proportion/perspective/etc: edit>transform>distort and tweak it until it’s right. no need to erase and redraw.

- go to windows>actions and create a new action. press record and record yourself flipping the canvas horizontally. bind it to a key and you can now flip your canvas back and forth with the touch of a button

If there’s an effect in my art you’re curious about just point it out and i’ll try to remember what i did.

Art and Colouring Progress/Step-by-Step/Tutorial thingy :')

Heeeey guys, so a lot of you have been asking about my colouring progress, and I’ve wanted to do something like it for a long time, so hopefully this will help! This is by no means the be-all end-all technique, this is just how I went through this drawing, but I still have much to learn. If you have a better or more efficient way to do something that i’ve done, don’t hesitate to share with me! Also, i’m not the greatest with explanations, but if you do need some clarification, leave me a message and I will try to re-explain anything that wasn’t clear c:

I always start with force drawing. Drawing force means capturing the dynamic of an organic body with basic curves. Organic bodies are rarely ever straight. Even when we stand statically, we naturally sway our hips to the side, have more weight on one foot than the other, and our spines are never truly straight. When I first decided on a stance, I wanted my character to be slouching forward, so I sketched in where her head and how it’s facing, and then in one quick, natural stroke, drafted in the flow of her body, and her arms.

For a far more extensive look into drawing Force, you should definitely invest an hour into this 4 part tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07fusT-dwVE I learned a lot from him, and it has made imagining and drafting poses much easier for me.

When I was happy with the force, I began sketching in the limbs and fleshing out the body.

when the sausage and ball limbs were in place, I fleshed it out even more and began roughing in details.

Clean up time! On a separate layer, I traced the rough sketch with a 3 pt brush. Don’t forget to flip your canvas horizontally to find and fix any mistakes you couldn’t see normally!

One of the biggest things that could help your line art look more dynamic is to include line weights. Line weights are important for depicting things like depth and really showing where objects collide. For this, I used a 4 pt brush, but had the tablet pressure control opacity on and lowered the flow to around 40-60%. Lines are darkest near creases, and around major details. Lines can be thinner/lighter for smaller details. You don’t need to draw in every detail right now; those can be added in later, after you’ve established a colour scheme, and when you’re closer to completion.

Alright! now with the lines all done, I used the magic wand tool and selected the negative space (any part of the canvas that is NOT part of the subject). Don’t forget to magic wand the smaller areas too, like the area between her arm and her sketch pad. After all the negative space is selected I press ctrl+shift+i to invert the selection. I created a new folder/group (bottom of your layers tab, looks like a folder) and then with the group selected I pressed add layer mask (looks like a rectangle with a circle in the middle). That should give that new group a mask that looks something like this . How a mask works is that any part of the mask that is black will be transparent while any part of the white will be visible. Therefore, with this mask set to this group folder (which will hold all your colour layers) you won’t have to worry about colouring anywhere outside the lines as long as those layers are inside that group with the mask. Of course, this won’t be perfect, you can clean up/fix a mask by selecting the mask and using a black or white brush to colour in any erroneous area. Best way to see how your mask looks is to fill in the background layer with a darker colour.

Next, I added the shade layer. I use the Hard Round Pressure Opacity brush with the tablet pressure control opacity on and the flow lowered to around 10-30%. I selected a mid grey tone and began shading in my character. The Hard Round Pressure Opacity brush is not pen pressure sensitive by default in regards to brush size (i.e. the colour will be lighter if your penstroke is light, but the size will remain the same regardless of how light/hard you press your pen); to manually turn on pen pressure, click the tablet pressure control size button .

Remember to use different shades of grey (lol fifty shades of grey) because shadows aren’t simply one shade. You can also use the burn tool to darken some areas of the shadows.

I turned off the shade layer ‘cause i didn’t need it for the next step. I created a new layer and made that my colour layer. On this layer I’m basically filling in all the base colours for my character. If you haven’t yet established a colour scheme, you can always make multiple colour layers for specific areas of the drawing and then tweak it using the Image > Adjustments Hue and Saturation option window.

When I was happy with the colours, I turned the shade layer back on and changed the layer mode to Multiply. Because my shadow layer is grey, the resulting image looks like this. It looks a bit cold, and a bit boring, so what I do is add colour to the shadow layer. There are two ways to do this: select your shadow layer and go image > adjustments > colour balance, or select your layer and create adjustment layer (bottom of your layers tab, looks like a circle half black half grey). Creating an adjustment layer will work the same as going to image > adjustments BUT instead of having that change permanent, you have the freedom of going back to those adjustments and changing them whenever you want by double clicking the adjustment layers.

When you create an adjustment layers, it will affect EVERY LAYER BENEATH IT, so in order to keep the adjustment layer affecting ONLY the shadow layer, select the adjustment layer and press ctrl + alt + g. there should then be an arrow which then indicates that it is only affecting the single layer beneath it.

Here’s what the image looks like now with the shadow layer having a redder hue. Looks much warmer and more natural.

For this art style, the colours and colour blending is what I wanted to show off, rather than relying on the line art for details. So, on a new layer ABOVE the line art layer, I used a brush with the pressure opacity on and the flow around 20-50% and started adding in colour details like the hair, the knots in the purse, fur on the boots, etc. etc.

I personally found the best way to do this is to use the eyedropper tool (or press and hold alt when you have the brush tool in use) and selecting adjacent colours in order to do the colour blending.

I kept drawing in details on until I was happy 8)

Almost done! for an extra little boost of lighting, I duplicated all the layers  (except the background layer) and merged those copies into one layer. ctrl + press the layer to select the positive area of that layer (i.e. anything with a non-transparent pixel, which would be your image) and create a new layer with a layer mask applied to it. On that new layer, I changed the blending mode to soft light and selected a pale yellow colour. Using a large sized soft edged brush, I lightly coloured in certain areas that would be highlighted.

Bam. Voila, and it’s done! Sorry for stretching your dash to the ends of the earth, but I hope this has been helpful to you c: Happy drawing \o/ ♥!!

anonymous asked:

I love your work! I'm an Artist and havent completely figured Photoshop out yet any tips that could be useful?

Glad you like!

As for tips one thing i think is very useful is always flipping your canvas, but it can be a hassle having to go through the menu’s and all that to flip it. So for those who dont know or are still learning and this saved me sooo much trouble. Its important for Artists to always be flipping your canvas because it might look good one way but when you do mirror it…it can looked completely messed up. Hotkey this to make your life easier like so

- what you want to do is get whatever image and go -Edit-Keyboard shortcuts-

-When you see this Menu pop up, in the Application Menu command go to Image and look for Image Rotation - Flip Canvas Horizontal Now you need to set the Hotkey, i set mine as Ctrl+F3 just tap those keys in an once you’ve done that just apply it, accept the changes and just like that you got a shortcut

So now when you hit Ctrl+F3 you can flip that image muuuch more easily instead of going through the Menu’s. It might not seem like much but when you do this all the time it is pretty useful. Hopefully that was helpful in some way. 

anonymous asked:

Hi Ola!! I love your small circle paintings of hq!! If you have any time, would you mind making a tutorial on how you make it a circle? (with a rough edge) thank you so much ////u/////

Hey there sweet Anon ♡✧( ु•⌄• )

When it comes to the circle I just kinda… draw it. No sneaky techniques. I flip the canvas horizontally a few times to see if it’s round enough and that’s all 


And this is the brush I use. You can find a download link to all my brushes on my about page.

Hope that helped!

anonymous asked:

Hi! Can you give me some tips of capturing a person's features? My drawing doesn't look like my ref and something seems off but I don't know which ones to fix. Thank you so much!

You need to draw a lot!

A great tip is to flip the canvas (horizontally and vertically) when you are painting. Why? That’s how you see the mistakes you are making: proportion. Everything about portrait is PROPORTION. If the proportion is off, you will hate your drawing!

Here’s some studies I did a while ago. It was so fucking hard, but those studies helped me in the way I can’t explain. So the tip is: PAINT, DRAW, TRY, TRY AGAIN.

The last two portraits were a master study (John Singer Sargent). TRADITIONAL ART helps so much, especially for skin colors. We all should try to paint a traditional portrait :D

Those were made in Photoshop!

things no one told me when i started digitally painting

tip 1:

make sure you flip your canvas horizontally often as you paint/drawto check for mistakes. brains are magical– they fill in the gaps to make things seem cohesive especially in human faces. but that basically just means you might not see something other people will.

trust me, it’ll be horrendous when you first start doing it. you’ll cringe. but if you’re afraid of making bad art you’ll never make great art, and eventually over time it will become like second nature. the worst thing you can do to yourself as an artist is let your shame overshadow your chance of improvement

queenofthefallenstarss-deactiva  asked:

Do you have any tips on doing eyes. Mine feel a bit off so any help you can give would be nice.

Okay, here we go! This is really really basic;;;;

The most common problem is getting used to the fact that the face is tridimentional, and that the eyes are a little “sunk” than other features like the cheekbones, nose and mouth, and even eyebrows.

I’ve always had hard times (and I still have, actually) to make eyes look good enough and not “flat”, but here are a few tips I usually use when drawing a new type of eye:

^^ basic information.

Remember “real” eyes are spheres, with a little circle on the middle (the iris and pupil). When we move our eyes, the iris and pupil move together around the sphere of the eye.

When drawing, sometimes I sketch a simple circle (the sphere) where I want to draw the eye. Then, I add the up and down lashes in the form I like.

NOW, based on the drawing above, there are a few tips that are good to know when drawing different directions of the eyes!

  • When looking forwards (a “neutral” sight) the iris should be in the middle of the circle, with its borders barely toching the up and down lashes.
  • When looking up, the iris should not touch the down lashes
  • And when looking down, the iris should not touch the up lashes
  • ON A DIFFERENT NOTE: When we’re surprised, we open even more our eyelids. In that case, when looking up front, the iris doesn’t touch the lashes. In more cartoon or manga style, that’s usually pictured with drawing a more little iris 8D
  • The contrary with almost closing the eyelids, they cover most of the iris.

While obviously anime eyes don’t have real proportions, they follow the same estructure of sphere+iris+pupil+eyelids. Once you get used to the idea of the base circle, you can play above it with different types of eyes, varying the form of the eyelids/eyelashes. Bigger ones for girly eyes, sharper ones for villian or male eyes, sad eyes, flustered eyes, etc.

It works as well for side pictures. Aaaaaaaaaactually, they should be shorter seen by the side, I got a little carried away while making these. It’s important to notice that eyes are not flat, but they stay a little curvy when seen from the side.

NOW I BARELY HAVE TIPS FOR ¾ PROFILE HEADS;;;;;;;;;; BUT I can tell you a few things:

  • The spheres method works as well to position correctly the eyes on the head.
  • Remember the nose stands out a bit from the head, so depending on how ¾ the head is, it will cover the eye behind (!!!!!). You can chose wether to draw the nose bridge or not, but the eyes must look like it’s covered by it.
  • FLIP YOUR CANVAS A LOT. A LOT!!! What would look awesome, could look a disaster when you flip it horizontally! Whiledrawing, our sight gets used to what it’s seeing, so it’s harder to find mistakes. Once you flip it, all of them will appear and the drawing will look hideous XD But just start fixing it while flipped, and flip it back again, and so on, until you feel like it looks good both ways!

Ahm, I don’t know what else;;; It’s almost pure instict, but as I said, I’ve always had trouble drawing eyes ;n; I got better with time and practice, and imitating what I liked best of different artists I like (the time I made my biggest change was while reading Amatsuki, goshh, I love their eyes!) and drawing realistic eyes as well!

Anyways, I hope this was at least a little bit helpful ;n; Once you get used to the not-flat face thing, everything will be easier and more natural! ;u; Keep practicing! <3

anonymous asked:

why flip your canvas?

When you flip ur canvas horizontally u can see any proportions or angles that are off that your eyes miss while you’re drawing, so like one eye might be drawn too high or the nose might be angled weird, etc. Sometimes your entire drawing might look really tilted to one side too.. sO FLIP UR CANVAS while you’re drawing :D