welded diff

4

Roy dadbod cheque
1989 Nissan 240sx
Suspension:
Gp sports g master coils
Espelir springs
Front:
B knuckle
20mm extended LCA
Yanak Japan tension rods
Rear:
Godspeed RUCA
Circuit sports toe arms
Engine:
KA24DE
egr delete
AEM air intake
Drivetrain:
welded diff
Brakes:
z32 front
project mu pads all around
Exterior:
Shine auto gp sports kit
Origin type 2 hood
326 power roof spoiler
Type x wing
Wise square led tails
M3 side markers
Wedssports SA50M 18x9 +20, 18x10 +16
Interior:
Bride lowmax rep
s14 passenger seat
326 power neck pads
s15 oem shift knob
Nardi classic
Broadway mirror
TF-works floor mats
Pivot push start button

3

I always knew @milliardo-peacecraft was a really good driver but in the off-season as I watch drift videos and read stories, I’ve come to appreciate how rare what he did last season was. he took a relatively nice 240SX with a stock KA, lowered it, welded the diff, made it look even better, and drifted the snot out of it. he didn’t make excuses about not having enough power, he wasn’t doing stupid things to impress anyone - he went out and drove and had a good time and was damn good. Only now, that he has basically mastered the low-power drift, is he moving to a more powerful setup. I didn’t know any better at the time, I thought that’s just what people did because my total knowledge of drifting was Initial D, basically, but I realize now (in the States at least) that this is rare, and my respect for him has reached even higher levels. 

2

HELP, one of our fellow sexys had his truck stolen last night from a house in sunneymead ranch by shadow mountain park in Moreno valley. What makes it sketchier is the truck was jacked up with busted UJoints at a homies house, so someone had to tow it out or used another driveshaft as this one was out. The liscence plate number is 3n 75238 and is a burgundy hard body, it currently had no front bumper, has fender mirrors and is slammed with a welded diff. If anyone sees this truck or parts, hit blackumi up or I .

Watch on boostlust.tumblr.com

Top 5 Drift cars on a budget !

Some of the cars are not THAT cheap, but I try to keep a good mixture, from the Sierra/miata with a welded Diff to a well tuned m3 or 180sx…
4

Max Machine Markup
1989 240sx
Suspension
BC racing coils
Custom valving
Swift springs 16/14k
Front:
Heat maker hotside knuckle
Heat maker hotside 40mm extended FLCA
Heat maker powerbrace
Ikeya Formula iner tierod
Tien outer tierod
Pbm tension rods
Pbm rack bushings
Moog ball joints
Energy suspension flca bushings
Rear:
Pbm RUCA
Pbm drop knuckles
Spl toe rods
Energy suspension subframe bushings
GK tech subframe reinforcement
Engine:
Redtop sr20det
Apexi power fc d-jetro
Wiring specialties pro harness
Yellow top subaru 550cc injectors
s15 spec-r t28
Tomei head gasket
Tomei expreme exhaust mani
Tomei oil cap
Tomei spark plug cover
Aem boost controller
Aem wideband
Aem air filter
Arp head studs
Arp main studs
Arp flywheel bolts
Acl bearings
Aeromotive stealth 340 fuel pump
Moroso oil pan
Chase bays ps kit
GK tech catch can
GK tech fan
CX fmic
Greddy pulleys
Koyorad radiator
Custom downpipe with flex
Dual exhaust with vibrant race muffler
Drivetrain:
DSS one piece drive shaft
Xtd stock replacement clutch
Xtd light weight flywheel
Welded diff with Villains plates
Villains z33 conversion stub shafts
Z33 axles
4.3 final drive
Brakes:
Pbm front bbk
Pbm front z32 calipers
Braded ss brakelines
Z32 1 1/16" bmc
Acadia rear rotors + custom brackets
Ebc green rear pads
Exterior:
Hot road front bumper
Home made splitter
Car modify wonder skirts
Car modify wonder rear bumper
Ls460 exhaust tips
Gt-1 break ito spoiler
Dmax roof spoiler
Shaved and painted oem tail lights
Dmax hood
Dmax front position lights
Ebay rain visors
Aeromarker mirrors
Gramlights 17x9 +12, 18x9.5 +22
Arp extended studs
Muteki sr48 lug nuts
Slip-on spacers out the ass
Interior:
Bride zeta iii
Buddy club rails
Bride brix ii
Bride rails
Noname hub
Nrg short quick release
Jdm woodgrain 330mm wheel
Og nissan horn button
Tomei shift knob
Aem gauges
Pbm drift button
Brown recluse garage 4pt with door bars
Slamburglars plaque
Hella dog hair

4

@corbonzo

Corbin Poop-pants Partlist
1989 Cressida
Suspension:
BC Racing 14/10k
Front:
Xcessive flca/tension rod
Xcessive rca
Xcessive rack bushings
Rear:
Xcessive arms
Xcessive subframe reinforcement
Engine:
2jzge
CX gt35 .68
CX exhaust manifold
CX fmic
Tial 44mm waste gate
Noname intake manifold
Bosch 1010cc injectors
Aem ems v2
Aem boost controller
Aem iat
Aem map
Panic wire harness
Coil on plug conversion
Xcessive motor mounts
Xcessive skid plate
Arp head studs
2jzgte head gasket
Mishimoto radiator
Cfr efans
Walbro fuel pump
Drivetrain:
W58
Xcessive one piece driveshaft
Xcessive diff bushings
Xcessive clutch pedal
Oem clutch master cyl
Welded diff
Competition clutch flywheel
Action clutch stage 3
Cube short shifter
Exterior:
Serial 9 type 1
Amg vents in front bumper
Ganador mirrors
Flowmaster dual tip
Super advan sa3r 18x9.5 +22
Interior:
Aem gauges
Bride zeta ii
xcessive seat bracket
Key!s steering wheel
Key!s shift knob
Brown recluse garage full-capacity 4pt with door bars

4

@nick-goldstar

Nick RIDE ✔️
97’ Nissan 240sx se
Suspension:
Stance coilovers 14k(swift)/10k springs
Pbm era 1 front knuckles
Front:
Steering rack moved 20mm forward
30mm extended lca
Voodoo 13 front tension rods
Stealth custom fab front power brace
Z32 steel calipers 30mm
Moog outer tie rods and maxima inners
Rear:
SPL toe arms
Megan tension and camber arms
Welded diff
Pmu drift spec brake pads
Modded subframe
Engine:
Ka24det
9.0:1 cp Pistons
Manley h-beam rods
Full arp studs
Light port and gasket match
Excessive crank scraper/windage tray
Tomei manifold
Tomei cams
Crower dual valve springs
Supertech valves
Garrett gt2860rs
Turbo smart wastegate actuator
Ported wastegate exhaust housing
HKS electronic boost controller
Pbm cobra r down pipe
Jwt ecu
550cc injectors
Drivetrain:
Spec stage 3 clutch
Welded diff
Brakes:
z32 front
Exterior:
Vertex ridge front and rear bumpers
Origin side skirts
Masa hood
Ryo tail lights
Ganador mirrors
Vertex headlights
Advan model 5 18x9 +10
Work cr Kiwami 18x9.5 +15
Weds Cerberus 1’s 18x10 +?
Interior
Key!s steering wheel
Tomei shift knob
Bride Zeta ii
Bride Brix
Bride seat rails
Dmax floor mats
Rear mount battery

Welded Diff's the age long Debate

(I am in no way a expert, this is just my opinion and experience)

So drifting enthusiasts are always arguing over whether or not Welded Differentials are a acceptable option in drifting,or in motor sports period.

Well lets start with some numbers, lets figure you are the average drifter so you bought your car for $500-$1500. Then lets figure that you rebuild the engine (unless its a rotary) you spend about $300,or you do some upgraded internals so $500-$1000. Then you slam your car with coilovers, assuming they are new you probably spend $1000+. Then you have to buy new Tie Rods because you slammed your car so low that the tie rods bent going over a speed bump, $300 or more, Also new tires because I have never bought a drift project with out needing them $200, unless you have after market rims in which case you could be looking at $400-600.

So lets add this up.
500+300+1000+300+200= $2300 on a cheap budget
now lets say you go on the other end of the spectrum
1500+1000+1000+300+600=$4400

So now you find your self with a decent platform (all though I agree with the idea of learning with stock power and stock suspension- this way you know what each part is doing) Now you come to the differential. Now in my opinion your going to spend $1000 on a diff, to learn to drift on it your going to wear it out before your get in your groove, not to mention who doesn’t drive there drift car everywhere the first time you have one. What I am getting at is WELD THAT SHIT AND HAVE FUN, when you feel that your abilities are being limited by your diff, step it up to the next level.

just my .002

anonymous asked:

If one wanted to get into drifting, where/how would they start? What's a good starter car?

find the closest events to you and sign up. some places have drift school days aimed at teaching first timers, but more seem to have run groups (eg, A,B, and C. A being for advanced/expert, B being for intermediate, C being for first timers/ new drivers).

DO NOT, be one of those people that say “oh i want to do i track event, but i want to get better first so i dont embarrass myself.” there is no better place to learn than on the track. the street is sketchy and builds bad habits. you cant get comfortable with driving by streeting. you are constantly worrying about cops, cars, pedestrians, etc. you can get in a ton of trouble streeting or worse yet you could hurt or kill someone. not to say the risk of injury is non-existant at the track, but it is severely reduced. the track is relaxed and consistent, you can do the same thing over and over until you get it dialed and then figure out how to do  it better. 

everyone went through the beginner phase, there is no shame or embarrassment in it. nobody is going to make fun of you, you are there for the same reason as everyone else. dont hesitate to ask questions, most advanced drivers would love the opportunity (or ego boost) of being asked to teach you some pointers. my only word of advice concerning being a new driver at a track day: when you spin out, recover quickly and get moving. don’t sit there and roast tire. you are holding up the line when you do that and people will begin to get annoyed by you quickly.

as for car? there is a reason 240′s are so popular in drifting. I have drifted a solid handful of cars and the s13 has been the easiest to skid hands down. I have drifted them bone stock single cam with automatic to 500hp pro-am cars and all over inbetween and they all make drifting easy. parts are plentiful, aftermarket is absurd, they are easy to make look cool, they are reliable (when taken care of), comfortable, and (despite what the majority will say) they are affordable. 

 i don’t know how mechanically adept you are and what your access to tools are like but there are not many cars easier to work on than an s13. there is not a single bolt un-turned on my 240sx aside from a few things behind the dash, and i can say almost no part on it is original either. they are very forgiving in terms of crashing, mine is pretty well bent but my first 240 was a write-off multiple times over and still drove well enough. 

if you have a little money to invest in a first drift car, i would try to find a dual cam hatchback 240sx with coilovers and a welded diff. if you can find one with adjustable arms (traction, rear upper control arm, and toe are the only ones you really need), awesome. if you can find one with that and rack spacers even better. but personally i think it is good to start as close to stock as possible. its nice to see what a difference a little more angle or some new bushings etc feels. 

the reason i say to find one already a little set up over unmolested is that the 240sx has become a victim of supply and demand. the demand is high, the supply is dwindling quickly, and thus the price is jumping quickly. in another ten years i bet the 240sx will become a japanese classic on par with the z cars, but i digress. bone stock automatics are fetching absurd prices, swapped and built cars are in the five digit price tags, but for some reason mild cars with still a ka24de are sitting around 2000-3500. and depending on what you get under that number, you realize very quickly you cannot build the same car for less than that price, even if you find the coveted sub $1500 manual 240sx. sure its got a few miles on those parts but honestly? its your first drift car. it doesnt need to be perfect, you will likely crash it at some point anyway. i did the math not that long ago and the amount of money ive put into my car is almost six or seven times the amount i could sell it for now, and i’ve had a lot of sick hookups over the years. 

let it be known right now, dear anon, drifting is not a cheap sport to get into. the chances of going big in it are slim, the chances of making money in it almost zero ( i have won a handful of events and not been paid out a cent haha), but i really think it is more fun that any other motorsport i’ve been involved in, and while there are quite a few dingleberries, there are also a lot of really cool friends to make.

if you want to get into drifting you should have one main goal: to have fun.
your secondary goal (in my humble opinion ;) ) should be to look cool having fun.

anything beyond that is luck or maybe you are the next takumi. 

if you want help finding a car or have any more detailed questions don’t hesitate to ask. I’m far from the best drift or most knowledged car guy on tumblr but i will certainly try to help you and know rad people who can help you if i cant.

<3