vet stores

How to Zookeep: Job Interview Basics

So I was tagged by @why-animals-do-the-thing in a post about what not to say in a job interview. It’s a bit overdue, but I figured this was a good opportunity to continue some of “How to Zookeep” and give y’all some insight on interviews. I’ve actually conducted quite a lot of interviews for an entry-level position. Here are just a few Do’s and Don’ts…

Originally posted by principessadesu

General Maybe Do’s:

  • Wear an outfit that looks pretty nice, but don’t go too formal. You should be able to get muddy or hop a fence - just in case. Most of the time you’ll know if it’s a true working interview, but some interviews will involve a tour, meeting an animal, or other situations where you might get messy.
  • Show that you’ve researched the facility and the position. This is especially true for phone interviews or if you’re not from the area. If you’ve ever visited the facility, mention that. Mention specific parts of the job description and why you’re interested or why you would excel at it. I know I always make a good note if candidates reference something on our website or from the job description because it lets me know they’ve done their homework. (One time a candidate quoted something verbatim and it was a little jarring only because I wrote that part of the website and it was strange to hear someone quote me).
  • If at all possible, have specific examples from your past experiences that you can talk about. These could be examples of training, working well with others, strengths & weaknesses, general animal care, etc. Try to be able to tell a story about when you worked around a training difficulty or resolved an issue with a coworker. And yes, have a real answer for “strengths and weaknesses”.
  • Try to use the most ‘updated’ zoo language you can. Zoo terminology changes so fast it’s hard to keep up. Try to use some of the research (website and job description) to see what kind of language this particular facility uses and attempt to mirror it. Examples are “in human care” instead of captivity or “habitat / enclosure” instead of cage/exhibit. It’s just a bonus way to make a good impression.

Originally posted by a-night-in-wonderland

General Maybe Don’ts:

  • Don’t get political. This is what @why-animals-do-the-thing was asked about - mentioning animal rights activist groups in the interview. Unless you are completely sure that it is specifically relevant to the position try not to get into any heavy areas of debate, any controversial news stories (think Harambe), or politically charged organizations like PETA, HSUS, etc. And even though you might think that everyone in the zoo world agrees that US politics are terrible for zoos/the environment or something along those lines, a job interview is not the time to mention it.
  • Don’t ask for tips about a specific facility on a public forum. It’s important to do research, but this one crosses a bit of a professional line. I would advise against going on any public forum (like the facebook groups You Know You’re a Zookeeper When and Zookreepers) and asking for interview advice about a certain facility. Most people won’t want to comment publicly about their facility as it can be seen as unprofessional and a lot of their coworkers will see it. Most of the time the research you need can be done on the website and with some googling, but if you feel you just need to talk to someone who works there, try flexing your networking muscle a bit.
  • Don’t say you love animals. This sounds contradictory but hear me out here - this job is about much more than loving animals. A lot of interviewers are used to hearing this answer or seeing it in cover letters of people who think that liking animals is all you have to do for a job. Yes, you love animals, we know that. But what do you love about working with them? Do you like enrichment, exhibit design, training? What do you love about the career of zookeeper / aquarist / etc? It’s important to go beyond the surface of just wanting to be around animals and go into the details of how you will improve their lives when you literally have their lives in your hands. I’ve heard from a lot of interviewers that they’re tired of hearing about ‘passion’, they want to hear about action. They want to hear about cleaning, hard work, the real nitty-gritty of the job. This don’t also leads to a general tip (what if you don’t have examples of what you like yet?)

General Tips

Here’s a common problem: you’re applying for your first entry-level position and you don’t have any animal experience yet. What do you talk about? Here’s some ideas:

  • Academic research or fieldwork - did you go on birding trips? Did you do mist-netting? Have you worked in a lab that uses live animals? Those things can be beginner animal experience.
  • Volunteering - zoos, vet clinics, etc.
  • Formal domestic animal experience - even if it’s not with exotic animals, the basics of caring for small domestics (cats, dogs, rodents, fish, etc.) in a formal setting (vet, pet store, rescue) has some aspects that apply in zoos, such as restraint and medical care.
  • Personal pets (very carefully) - It’s not that personal pet experience isn’t helpful when you’re just starting out, but sometimes newer keepers come in with an idea that their pet experience is on the same level as caring for animals in a formal career setting. It is not. Caring for your own animal in your own home is VERY different from caring for it in a zoo, aquarium, vet’s office, etc. In a formal setting, there are legal guidelines to follow, teams of people to communicate with about animal care, and lots of formality/red tape that doesn’t exist in a home setting. Pets can be useful as examples in interviews if it is relevant (medicating, enrichment, restraint) but they are almost never seen as an actual qualification. Side note, please don’t list personal pet care on a resume. 

Overall in an interview, you want to try to be as collected and confident as possible. BUT if you get nervous and you’re really struggling, just tell us! It’s better to just laugh a bit and say sorry, I’m nervous, than to completely freeze up. I have done plenty of interviews where the person is nervous and that’s okay. I’ve hired people who were nervous or misspoke in their interview.

If you have any other questions, feel free to drop me a line. I’ve interviewed and hired people for just three years now, so I may not be particularly seasoned, but I can lend a little of my expertise.

Uni, Shiba Inu (1 y/o), Prince & Mulberry St., New York, NY • “She takes us to three places: the park, the vet, and the dog store. Yes, she likes the vet.” @uni_the_shiba

Lost birds; what to do.

There have been a few incidents of missing parrots recently, and if an accident does happen (and it is wiser to assume it will and be prepared then to confidently assume it won’t);

“Do I have every possible preventative measures in place?”
“What would I do if my birds ever flew away?”

The first thing to think about is prevention.

Before getting your bird out of the cage -

  • Are all the doors, windows shut or if left open, the door to that room is closed?
  • Are people in the household aware of the bird being out of its cage and take care when opening and shutting doors?

When taking your bird outside-

  • Is you bird properly restrained in its cage or carrier, with clips on the door, feed holders and any other openings.
  • If not restrained to a cage is your bird wearing a harness? Fitted properly and with training, securely holding onto a harness with prevent your bird flying away. Taking them outside for an hour whilst monitoring them will also accustom them to the surroundings. It will make them familiar with being in the outdoors, especially if their escape is the first time they’ve been outside in a while.

There is a huge MYTH around when you clip your birds wings they have no ability to fly at all. Clipped birds still have the ability to catch lift from a wind current and get caught into a tree. Don’t be niave and take risks by not restraining your parrot when outside (unless free flight training has been taught, but where I am birds of prey deter me from ever doing so)!

Is your bird trained in target training?
Particularly descent target recall. When birds are out in the open, flying downwards from a tree is a lot more tricky with fear of landing and being outside already added into the equation. You want to know you have a confident chance of targeting your bird back to its cage or a portable perch in a sticky situation.

If your bird talks, teach it to talk or whistle on command so if you ever loose sight of it you can hear it from a distance.

Get your bird microchipped!
Or have an identifiable leg band around its ankle (yes this is not a desired option but its better than nothing).

Create a list of your local vets, pet stores and animal sanctuaries for reference.
Prepare Lost Bird fliers (preferably use a photo that will make your parrot undesirable to someone who wants to keep it for themselves; aka destructive behaviours) so you’re ready to post them around if you ever need too!

Now we have the preventative measures in place;
What to do when your bird escapes?

  • Make lots of noise when your bird flies off so it can gather its surroundings and know where to fly back to your after it lands.
  • Keep your eye on your bird. Check where it has flown to and how tired it looks to give you an estimate as to where it lands.
  • Get outside and actively look and call your bird. The first 24hrs are crucial in getting your bird back. 
  • Check the area for wild birds, particularly birds creating a lot of noise. This is generally a sign there is an intruder in the area (that intruder being your bird).
  • Look in trees, not just for the figure of your bird but any abnormal rustling leaves or branches.
  • If you have more than one bird, place the other outside. It’s calls will be familiar to your lost bird and should encourage your escape bird to fly to its cage.
  •  It’s highly unlikely you will find your bird in the dark, so go inside and have a rest, post fliers on social media sites.

The next day post fliers in letter boxes, around the neighbourhood, at local supermarkets, pet stores, vets, sporting fields and community notice boards. Drive around with the flier on your back car window. 
If its been a while since the advert has been originally dates, put “still missing” under the title.

If you have a pet bird who looks like a native bird around the area, contact wildlife rescues so they know if a ‘tame’ appearing bird is brought into them to contact you.

The important thing is don’t give up hope.
There have been scenarios where people find their bird days, weeks, even months after its lost.

Meet Elmer! 

Elmer has only been with me for a few short weeks, but in that time he has developed into the most attentive, excitable, lovable little dude! He’s still got so much spunk, but with a lot less nipping and a whole lot more kisses. 

Elmer was a pet store gecko who had gotten loose and went missing, only to be found some time later on the store’s glue trap. Thanks to the employee’s quick thinking and know-how, the little angry geck was safely freed from the trap, seen by the store vet, and set up in isolation the very same day. He screamed like a baby and bit the vet, very upset with the whole scenario! 
I was contacted soon after about his discovery and situation and went to meet him shortly after. He nipped me quite readily during examination and transportation (I would have too!), but after a few days in his new home with proper heat, humidity, food, and hides, he quickly decided he was a-okay with how things were going. A trip to the vet confirmed that his toes and feet were in good condition despite the glue trap, which we were all really excited about!

Elmer now readily eats from his feeding tongs, tries all kinds of delicious bugs, lets me gently handle him for examination, and follows me excitedly and actively when I’m near his enclosure. With an adorable little smile to boot, he’s quite the charmer! 💖

blacksquishpaws  asked:

Thanks for the awesome advice! For now I've pulled some old neglected toys from his secret stash under the couch. I know he likes sneaking outside and taking a stroll in the garden or just laying by the doorway looking outside. I want to get him a harness and take him out maybe to a park. Do you think introducing him to a harness now would be a good idea? Sorry for all the questions.

No worries for the questions! You are in the right place to ask them! I think taking him outside would be great! Oreo LOVES that! A harness is a great idea! It may take Kenmore a little bit of time to get use to it, but just go slowly! Some cats will accept it right away and other’s take time. If your cat is use to wearing a collar, chances are the harness won’t bother him. You can purchase pet harnesses at your local pet store or vet, however, in my experience they are not the safest bet. Kenmore is liable to easily get out of one if he tries hard enough. I use what is called a Cat Jacket. This is a special jacket that is designed for cats. I purchase mine through Mynwood Cat Jackets. You can also get them on Amazon. These jackets have a velcro seal that makes them escape proof. They are very comfortable and they are washable. Oreo loves his! 

The important thing when trying the harness or the jacket for the first time is to be patient! If your cat is not adamant, go slowly by trying it on him for a couple of minutes each day while indoors until he gets comfortable with it. Once he is comfortable, attach the lead and place him in front of your open front or back door. Let him explore slowly. With Oreo it only took a couple of tries to get him to wear it and go outside, now he gets excited when he sees his jacket because he knows it means we are going for a walk (I think he was a dog in a past life).

You’re off to a great start! Let me know how it goes!


Let Go. Part 3.

Ashley Purdy & Reader

Warning: Language, Smut

(Part 1, Part 2, Part 3)

“Why did you bring me to a dog park?” Andy asked getting out of Ashley’s car.

“I wanted you to meet this girl.” Ashley explained as the two of them walked to the large dog section of the park.

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So, I do not work at petsm@rt but Ive been associated with multiple Petsm@rt stores over the years and this is one of my favorite stores to lift from.

No stores that I have been associated with have any measures to deter theft. There is no in store or outsourced LP that I am aware of. Certainly none in store.

Employees do not have any LP training. The only thing I have witnessed is an employee telling a manager that she sees the same guy (one that was currently walking the isles) come in with shoe boxes and leave without paying and thinks he is stealing. Nothing was done and the manager said to let her know the next time he comes in. Other than that, employees are not trained to keep an eye out for theft.

The majority of stores will not have any cameras or towers. This is fairly common for most stores. I have been to very high shrink stores that have installed cameras but inly one or two and are almost always pointint to the collars/leashes isle. These cameras are usually small but not hidden by any means. Just look. All stores have speakers where music is played - these are not cameras in any of the stores I have been associated with but as always, proceed with caution.

Stores with high shrink will sometimes tag their leashes and collars. Tagging is done pretty carelessly and some merch is often skipped. You should be able to find the product you want that is not tagged. The tags I have seen can easily be removed with a magnet or stack of magnets. I have never come across anything source tagged.

Because most stores do not have cameras or very few, blind spots are easy to find. Isles are high and traffic is usually low. Just go to an isle with nobody in it and conceal there - be quick! Dog food isles are always good places. Its always nice to have a question in mind if you are caught hanging around the food isles with no merchandise. “Im looking for a high quality puppy food, what would you recommend” “What do you think about Royal Canin food for a golden retriever” whatever.

Bathrooms are usually placed at the back of a store. They are often hidden and unattended however staff breakrooms are often in the same area. You can always conceal and/or detag in the bathrooms but be cautious of employees going in or out of the breakroom.

If your spending too much time on the floor and feel you are getting a big sus you can always have an out with some medical question which would have to be answered by a vet (some stores have a pet hospital in store). You can easily make your way to the suppliment isle and find a calming medication or something and ask if it is okay for a puppy. They will ask you the age of the puppy l - say 3 or 4 months. They will tell you not to give it to a puppy that young and theres your out. Leave without buying anything, no suspicion.

-No LP in store and employees are not trained to deter theft
-Most stores do not have cameras, towers, or tags.
-High shrink stores may have a couple cameras, none hidden, usually pointing toward collars/leashes which may be tagged.
-Any tags can be removed with a magnet.
-Empty isles are best for concealing
-Bathrooms are okay but watch out for the breakroom nearby
-Always have an out!! Have SPECIFIC questions ready just in case.


I have been associated with multiple stores across the country but your store can always differ from the ones in my experience.
And as always…

Keep it classy, bitches.

Sherlock x reader

A/N: Hope you like this! This is the Sherlock BBC one I mentioned before(If I did?) I hope I got the characters portrayed okay, as it;s my first time writing them really.

btw (c/n) is cat’s name.

The thunder outside rumbled on as the residents of 221B Baker St. relaxed into their day in. It was Friday evening and although no cases had sprung up all week, Sherlock seemed alright with that. Honestly, John bet he would crash any minute now.
So far, though, the consulting detective has been calm about the matter. He was currently seated in his chair, a small book in his hands. John sat across from him with his laptop, scrolling through the news in hopes or anything springing up in case his best friend started getting antsy.

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i’m in my car

Today was class, then run, then quick shower and lunch, then class, then store, then vet. I feel like I haven’t had a moment to breathe. I was stuck in traffic on my way home from the vet and I was relieved. A legitimate reason to do nothing but listen to music and the rain on my windshield

As I got closer to my apartment I started feeling very sad. Very lost. Very empty. I can’t quite explain it. But I’m sitting in my car right now, watching the rain, postponing going inside and having to deal with dinner, with studying, with getting myself to bed. I just don’t feel good. I know I have a point in life and I have people and things to live for but right now things feel a bit pointless and sad. And empty. I feel so empty. This sounds dramatic, I know. But this is how I feel. So I’m sitting in my car and watching the rain.

anonymous asked:

Day ???. My snail is still dying and coming back to life in periods of a couple of days. Neither pet stores nor vets have answers. My door opened on its own yesterday; I fear the snail was behind it. I fear this tiny algae-eating zombie creature.

This seems like a message from an alternate timeline or the future with a snailpocalypse and I don’t know if I’m ready

So, this is how my legs look when I’m relaxed.

This is not a normal posture for a leopard gecko–though it’s normal for me.

A more normal posture would be to have my legs tucked up a bit with my feet flat on the ground, and not resting on my elbows, and my legs should be a lot more muscular; you can see mine are still pretty thin and not toned looking. That’s okay though, I have a LOT of weight I need to gain, and I guess I’m just going to get it in my legs later.

I’m hoping with weight gain and moving around more that I build up some leg muscle, but even that probably won’t fix the position of my legs much, because that is due to bone deformities from my MBD.

At some point, while I was being starved by my first keepers, my bones started to get soft due to lack of calcium and, eventually, they fractured. My first keepers never took me to a vet and, when they dumped me at the pet store, their vet said there wasn’t much we could do but let them heal and hope it was okay because of the condition that I was in and due to how many small breaks there were.
When they got me, my spine was also kinked pretty severely and I had a bad underbite as well, both of those things have healed up now though. My spine is straight again and my jaws line up!

Obviously, that was all pretty painful (broken bones always are), but my legs healed, and this is how they healed.

I can still walk and I can move pretty fast–not as fast as other leopard geckos, but still pretty fast. I do look a little funny when I walk; a lot of times, I walk on my front elbows instead of my feet because of how weak my front legs still are and because of how my elbow joints healed. My feet are on the ground, but I put my weight on my elbows as my ankle joints are still really weak. They may always be that way, my keeper isn’t sure yet.
Someone on Reddit said I do a very cute army crawl!

My back legs swing out in big circles when I walk due to how they healed and, when I rest, I rest with them splayed out like this because that’s just naturally how they want to go due to how those bones healed. 

I’m resilient though, I can still run and walk and I’m working on climbing. Some day, my front legs will be strong enough to let me climb up onto the big cork bark piece in my enclosure.

anonymous asked:

What are your current requests babydoll

  • NSFW Eren scenario with a dominant female s/o.
  • NSFW Eren scenario where female s/o gets special birthday treatment.
  • NSFW dominant Armin headcanons.
  • Scenario where Porco’s female s/o has a stalker that won’t leave her alone.
  • Scenario where Marco’s female s/o dies instead of him.
  • NSFW Mike headcanons.
  • The Vets at the grocery store headcanons.
  • Scenario where Erwin has a crush on a modern female s/o.
  • The Special Operations Squad (Levi Squad) at an amusement park headcanons.
  • NSFW Marco scenario.
  • Fluffy Modern AU scenario where Levi’s s/o tries to make him laugh at the gym.
  • NSFW Bertolt scenario.
  • NSFW Jean scenario.
  • Scenario where Erwin finds himself falling for an old crush again.

Note: This is the order in which I will be posting them in. First come first serve. :)

Please don’t give rabbit advice to others unless you have done proper reach. You wouldn’t know the number of people literally entering my ask box this week challenging me with bad/false/unresearched/“I had a rabbit when I was 6…” information on proper care and diet. Honestly I know more than most general vets know about rabbits so…please don’t try that on me again. Skimming an article or seeing a Tumblr post doesn’t count. Verify with multiple
credible sources (HRS and Kanin are my go to resources for a large number of needs) or you could be part of the problem that ends up killing 90% of bunnies in their first year of life.

Look at this little cutie!

Someone left this bird in a box on our shelves two days ago. :(

She (not sure of the gender without a blood test so I went with she) is underweight, only clocking in at 94g, when she should be about 120-ish.

She’s SO SWEET too– she will do anything to get to you just to snuggle.

I’m hoping she’s not sick at all, but our store vet comes next friday so we’ll see what he says.

anonymous asked:

what requests do u have

I have..

  • Two NSFW Eren scenarios.
  • NSFW dominant Armin headcanons.
  • Porco scenario where s/o has an obsessed crush that won’t leave her alone.
  • Marco scenario where s/o dies instead of him.
  • NSFW Mike headcanons.
  • Headcanons of the Vets at the grocery store.

Hi guys! So this is my cat, Tink and we really really need some help.

(explaining a bit)

Tink went missing for about a year and she returned with very bad trauma to her trachea on top of a bad respiratory infection+ear infection. Her trachea problem makes it extremely hard for her to breathe, and she chokes while eating anything that isn’t patte wet canned food.

About 3 months ago, my sister agreed to take me and Tink to the vet after a very scary choking incident with Tink. Ever since then, both my sister and parents refuse to take her back just because she got checked once. On that single visit, my vet told me that Tink needs immediate surgery. But I have not been able to bring my cat back to him to talk more about it And when I call him, he tells me he needs to see her again first.

Recently(about a week ago or so), I’ve noticed Tink is going blind in her left eye, but it is coincidentally on the same side as her ear infection so I have a gut feeling they are connected. I have been trying to get my mom to take her to the vet for months now, but! my parents absolutely loathe me and my pets, so they refuse because they “have enough things to stress over”. But since i live a 30 minute drive from any sort of vet/store, my parents are my only ticket anywhere.


SO!! Here i am asking you guys for help financially.. I don’t want to wait for my cat to be literally dead before my parents decide maybe they will pity me enough to pay for my cat. I don’t have a single resource to raise money for Tink’s vet, not even for a checkup. I can’t get a job for another 4 months bc of my health and my tablet isn’t working properly for me to take commissions.

So any kind of donation, anything anyone can do to help, i would greatly appreciate it and it could save my cat’s life. I’m not very good at asking for help, but this isn’t about me, it’s about my cat. If I could raise even just $70, I can take her immediately.. that would be enough to take her in for a checkup and also pay for a ride there.

The paypal I am using is so any donations, please send them there. If you read all of that, thank you. It would mean the world to me if anyone could help, even if its just $1

This post is a follow to my post about which blocks to avoid. On this post I will give you a bit of background on each brand of food and a few reasons as to why these are the best brands to feed your pet rats.
*Mazuri- Mazuri only has one formula which is best suited to young female rats. This is because one of the main ingredients is soybean meal which is believed to help prevent mammary tumors however this block is high in protein 23% which is why this block is suited to young female rats. Mazuri is vegetable based so if you are vegetarian or vegan this could be a good option for you to feed your pets without compromising their health.
In America you should be able to find this food at your local pet store.
*Oxbow- Oxbow has an adult and young rat formula. The adult rat formula has 15% protein while the young rat formula has 18%. Both Oxbow formulas are nutritionally complete and is low-fat to help maintain an appropriate weight. The young rat formula has added vitamins and minerals. For those of you interested in the first 5 ingredients for both formulas I’ve got a list here for you
Adult formula: Whole Brown Rice, Oat Groats, Wheat Bran, Wheat, and Soybean Meal.
In America you can get Oxbow easyly in pet stores however if you are in New Zealand you could ask your local vet or pet store if they can order Oxbow in. My local vet (Pet Doctors) orders rabbit and g-pig food from Oxbow, they may be able to order rat food in also.
Young Rat formula:Ground Corn, Soybean Meal, Wheat Middlings, Soybean Hulls, and Dried Whey.
*Harlan- There are a few different types of Harlan Teklad blocks which are 2014 and 2016. 2016 is best suited to adult rats with 16% protein while 2018 is best suited to young rats up to the age of 8months with 18% protein. Usually you have to order large amounts of Harlan at one time however at times rescues will make a large order and sell smaller quantities on to rat owners. If you live in New Zealand you can order Harlan on the New Zealand Rat rescue site.