It is often stated that classic menswear is timeless but even menswear staples such as suits and odd jackets go through fashion cycles. This becomes painfully obvious if we compare the tight and short jackets of the early 2010s, with their narrow lapels, high buttoning points and open quarters with the long and roomy power suits of the 1980s which featured “football-padded” shoulders and extremely low buttoning points. The most extreme forms of fashion cycles, however, is mainly seen in ready-to-wear clothing where various designers need to distinguish this year’s collection from last year’s. Bespoke tailoring, on the other hand, seems to stay clear of the most deviant forms of fashion but whether this is because tailors in general are a conservative kind or because they just have better eyes for what suits most men I do not know. Most probably the truth is a little bit of both.
A prime example of the enduring style of bespoke tailoring is the Cifonelli jacket I am wearing today. Originally made for what was likely a French or Italian gentleman back in December 1981, it has not only survived the intervening 32 years virtually unmarked by time in terms of wear and tear, it also has a cut that looks like something that could have been made yesterday. It is really a thrilling sensation to put on a jacket that was made at a time when I was a mere lad, barely ten years old and knowing that it could very well be a part of my wardrobe for the reminder of my life. That is indeed the very definition of timeless clothing….
Herringbone cashmere jacket by Cifonelli, Belisario shirt, wool challis tie and pocket square from Drake’s and Varoli respectively, Incotex mid-grey flannel trousers and Edward Green Malvern in dark oak.