usb device

PlayStation 4 | External HDD Guide

PS4 System Software 4.50 has introduced external HDD support, allowing users to attach external USB drives to their console for additional storage. I’ve put this how-to-guide together for those of you who might be confused as to how this new feature works. 

Minimum HDD requirements

When buying an external HDD to use your PS4, it must meet the following requirements.

  • USB 3.0+ (Blue Colour Port)
  • 250GB Minimum
  • 8TB Maximum

Please note, not all external HDD’s are compatible. Do your research before buying.

Format your external HDD

Before you can use your external drive, it needs to be formatted so the PlayStation 4 system can use that external storage To do this: 

  1. Go to [Settings] 
  2. Scroll down to [Devices]
  3. Choose [USB Storage Devices]
  4. Select your external HDD drive, select [Format as extended storage]
  5. Wait for the system to complete the process. 

Please note, any data stored on the drive after formatting it will be erased so make sure you have a back-up of the any data you have stored on the drive before hand.

Installing Games & Apps to the external HDD

  1. Go to [Settings]
  2. Scroll down to [Storage]
  3. Press the [Options] Button on your controller
  4. Choose which location you want to download to, System or External.

Moving Games & Apps to the External HDD

  1. Go to [Settings] 
  2. Scroll down to [Storage]
  3. Select [System Storage] Then [Applications]
  4. Press the [Options] Button, then chose [Move to Extended Storage]
  5. Select the Apps/ Games you wish to move by ticking the boxes.
  6. Select [Move] Then follow the on-screen instructions. 
  7. Wait for the Process to finish

Removing The External HDD

If you need to disconnect/ remove your external HDD from the PS4, make sure you follow these steps correctly to prevent damage to your data or drive. 

  1. Hold down the [PS] Button on your controller to access the quick menu
  2. Select [Sound/Devices]
  3. Then [Stop Using Extended Storage]
  4. System will display a message when the device can be removed.

Do not remove the external HDD while the system is switched on or without disconnecting the HDD correctly.

Transformers porn basically works like this right:

You got the bots. They whip it out. one of em puts it in and the other one spends a solid minute making sure they have the drivers for this dong. 

They go at it. They Jack In. you hear the combination of transforming sounds and the whirring of fans like you’re trying to run GTA V on a laptop you got 7 years ago. 

first one pulls out. the receiver makes the “Du-duh” USB device removal sound. 

Request: Could you do a Macgyver oneshot where the reader is Jack’s niece/nephew or something and is secretly dating Mac and the team finds out???? Your writing is 👌👌👌

Thanks!! I changed it slightly, but I hope I still did it justice :)

Characters: Angus MacGyver x reader

Gender: Any/Neutral   Triggers: None

Words: 1,614 

Originally posted by fyeahlucastill

“Y/n, where are you?” you heard Mac ask through his earpiece

“Second floor coming up” you said as you were walking stealthily down the hall towards the staircase

“Head up y/n, you got two guys comin’ your way” you heard Riley say quickly

Just ahead you heard whispering, quickly hiding behind a wall you waited for them to pass, it would be better if you don’t get caught yet. But just as you thought this you saw the men come flying down the stairs with Mac behind them.

After fighting the men for a moment he managed to knock one out but the other got away “Mac!” you yelled running up to him “What part about stealth mission don’t you get?!”

“I didn’t want them to find you” he said simply

“I was hiding, they wouldn’t have” you said exasperated

Just them you heard more yelling as men ran towards you, giving him a look that said ‘This is your fault’ you two quickly ran up the stairs.

“Jack, we need to hurry” Mac said while dragging you down the hallway, his hand in yours.

“Yeah yeah, I’m coming” you heard Jack yell frustrated

Running around the corner you see Jack waiting for you with a bloody lip. He had obviously been caught at some point too. Pointing and firing his gun behind you as the men rounded the same corner, he gave you cover as you dived into the security office.

You quickly put the USB device into the side of one of the computers, you needed to download the files. Doing everything Riley was telling you, you managed to get the files. Taking the USB out and shoving into your inner jacket pocket you looked at Mac.

“So, how are you gonna get us out of this one?”

Looking around the room then seeing his eyes fall to the fire extinguisher he looked at you “I’ve had worse ideas”

As the door flew open and he blasted the men in the face with the fire extinguisher, you and Jack managed to get around them, running down the hallway with Mac following closely. With the bullets flying you managed to dive out onto the fire escape. Seeing Riley pull up in the vane you three jumped the rest of the way down, ignoring the throbbing in your ankle as you landed roughly you jumped into the van, speeding off.

Lying on the van floor, panting you looked over at your Uncle and Mac, each of them having obviously been in a fight you chuckled “You two really need to learn the definition of stealth”

Glancing at each other they turned back to you smiling, you and Mac sharing a look that Jack didn’t notice.

After debriefing with Thornton you, along with Jack and Riley, headed to Mac’s place. Bozer, after cooking you guys some burgers, was with Riley, trying to get her to help him with another project for his movie. 

As you sat down outside, Mac came and sat next to you, handing you a drink, with another in his hand 

Leaning closer he spoke quietly “So, you still mad at me?”

Why would I be mad?” you asked genuinely

“About ruining our stealth mission” he said taking a sip of his drink

Smiling you shook your head “No. I know why you did it” you said giving him an amused look.

Mac had a way of getting protective over you on missions, sometimes it was aggravating, but when the mission worked out well enough, like it did tonight, it only amused you. Glancing behind him and into the house, checking to see where Jack was you leaned forward, quickly pressing a kiss on Macs cheek, earning a smile from him. Mac smiled at you, leaning in to kiss you he pulled away quickly when he heard Jacks approaching footsteps.

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Detective Conan 999 [Japanese to English Translation]

Chapter 999! 

  • Everything is for the School Field Trip… He’s desperate!

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North Korean defectors setting off balloons from South Korea carrying anti-dictatorial propaganda over the border. They transport posters, sweets, money and USB devices. The posters feature slogans which translate to “humanity against Kim Jong-un” and the flash drives contain South Korean TV programmes and documentaries in order to quell the rumours distributed by North Korean authorities about its neighbouring country. Once the balloons fall, cooperating insiders collect the USB sticks and subtly drop them onto the floors of market places and other bustling areas so that that the intrigued public will pick them up and watch the content. The aim is to provide the indoctrinated population of North Korea with a taste of outside luxuries in order to encourage citizens unknowingly oppressed by the regime to bravely attempt an escape. Thousands of these balloons are sent on a yearly basis.

I have tried everything I’ve seen or heard of and my Wacom Bamboo will no longer register with Windows as anything but a mouse, so I’m strongly considering retiring it (it is 8 ½ years old) ((before you say anything, yes I have reinstalled drivers, installed old drivers, tried different USB ports, tried different USB cords, uninstalled the device, stopped/restarted in services, deleted stray Wacom files in program files, and!! more!!))

So what are your recs? Should I stick with Wacom/go for Intuos or move to another brand like Monoprice or Huion? What are the pros & cons? All recs appreciated.

Remote Trigger for Sound FX on the cheap! (And, there is NO coding required!!!!)

So I have been reading around a few places, and have noticed that there is a lot of interest in doing remote SFX (Sound Effects) triggers. That is, having the sound cue go on the action of someone other than the A1/Sound Technician.  Normally, this would be a VERY bad idea to divide control of critical show cues. But, sometimes you need to. Perhaps the action is dependent on an action the actor does (Like firing a prop gun to match a SFX of a gunshot). Sometimes, you may need to cue intro music for a band and their entrance point doesn’t have the ability to have radio or clearcom, leaving the SM or technician to have to cue them in for you.  And sometimes, you are just not anywhere near the computer running the effect and still need to launch them (Such as having to run multiple functions and your cue PC is no where near you). 

There are plenty of MIDI controlled options (Such as foot switches, drum pads and keyboards) that have been used by professional Broadway shows and live musicians (OK GO actually comes to mind, since a lot of their rigs are time and action dependent even in their live performances).  And, there are DAW’s like Ableton that make programming these MIDI controllers a breeze. The downside is that those systems can be quite costly to do correct.  You can get a “Lite” version of Ableton and a $99 Mini MIDI keyboard, but for highschool theatre or street performers that is even out of budget.  Also, once you get into custom made controllers for stage work and props, the price can easily climb into the thousands. And, if you are deciding to use a program that isn’t a pre-programmed click and play compliant controller outside of Ableton Live, then you have a lot of programming to look forward to.

BUT….  What if I told you that you could design a remote trigger for as little as $10? And, there was NO coding and very little programing involved? 

Well, you can.

First, you need the basics: The Controller. 

This is a bog standard presentation remote. These little Pen-sized devices (they do come in different shapes, but this one happens to be what I had in my desk) are a common sight in any corporate office or classroom.  They are almost exclusively used to run presentations in Microsoft PowerPoint.  But, did you know how they work?

First of all, this clicker operates on RF, or radio frequency.  You simply plug the USB adapter into the computer, and the remote communicates to the PC via radio waves.  Some have infra-red (IR) transmitters, which uses a small LED that flashes commands in binary to the receiver in a light frequency we as humans cannot see, but the sensor can.  Both devices are “Paired” systems, which means that the transmitter and receiver are matched to one another, so no programming is needed.  Just plug and play.

Second, These clickers belong to a family of devices that are called “USB Class Compliant Devices”.  In short, they use a generic key map and programing code that all keyboards, ten-keys and clickers use to activate a function.  Each key on a class-compliant device is mapped to a key (letter, number, function, etc).  On Keyboards, it allows Windows machines (and most macs) to understand just about any input device without the need to install a separate driver. 

And, when you think about it, that means that while this clicker has three keys… if it is class-compliant, then that means these keys actually match something that may be on an actual keyboard!  Why is this important? Because every program uses a Keyboard to input actions, including…


For this example, we’re going to be using a Windows-based sound cue software called Show Cue Systems. This is the Windows cousin to Apple’s QLab, and both effectively do the same thing: They can control audio, video, static image, control cues (actions) and even lighting cues (DMX based) and can be programmed to automate a show.  But, in this case we want to launch a cue and not have to be near the computer that is launching it. 

In this second picture, you can see that the cue we are looking to activate gives you some options on the drop down menu.  Now, it may be tempting to figure out some wacky way to get a MIDI device to communicate to SCS, but take a look at the “Manual” option.  They simply mean a “GO” button.  In this case, it is the space bar.

Wait! The spacebar is the go button.  That means that there is something that TELLS the program that, when I press that space bar, I want my cue to go.  And, it also defaults to the Escape key (ESC) to stop everything in the show.  The question you should be asking is “Is there a way to change what key activates the go button?”

In this case… YES. There is

In Show Cue Systems, you will find this list under the “Options” menu while in show mode.  Then, click on “Shortcuts”.  There, you will find a list of actions, and an associated key to make things happen. Remember when we mentioned that all class-compliant devices use the same “map” for keys so everyone can code in the same language? Well, that means our little remote’s 3 keys correspond to three keyboard keys. 

But what are those keys? Well, the manual might not say, but there is an easy way to fix that. In nearly all media performance programs (Qlab, SCS, Ableton Live, Logic Mainstage, etc), you can find the option to re-map your keyboard to have different keys do different things.  The easiest way (and the way I did this in SCS), is to click on the function I wanted to alter, click on it so that it was active, and went to the space that told the program what key would activate the function.  Then, I cleared out the preset and simply pressed a key on the remote clicker.

Sure enough, in this case, the dialogue box showed that the clicker’s button was the same as the “Up Arrow” key on a keyboard!

Once I knew that, I went through the list, removed any other function that used the Up Arrow key and then assigned the Up Arrow as my go button!

(And, don’t forget to “Apply” and “Save” all changes depending on what software you are using)

Now, I simply go back to the cue, and choose the “Go” button to be the action that activates the cue.  And, once I press the button on the remote that matched the keymap… THE CUE FIRES!

Not all programs allow you to remap the keyboard functions, but most do!  I was on the Windows side of my MacBook Pro, so I couldn’t use Qlab as an example.  But, it isn’t difficult. In fact this can even work with recording software! 

If you are recording your own demo track, for example,  and don’t want or can’ t get your computer or keyboard near you (Such as if you are playing drums and your DAW and interface are on the other side of the room), you can map the transport keys to any class-compliant device like a powerpoint clicker.  Then, when you are ready, hit the button that activates the recording and you are off!  (Admittedly there are better MIDI options for musicians, but this is simply another way).

Now, as long as you have a different key, you can even assign hotkeys to certain cues. Have a doorbell effect that the actor cannot seem to keep consistent on? Put a PowerPoint clicker in the doorbell and have the actor hit that! Now, they can have all the doorbell they want, and it doesn’t affect your cues and everything seems flawless.  Tape the clicker to the prop gun, and never again does the gunshot have to mismatch the shooter on stage!  And, these devices are DIRT cheap! This clicker I used was $10.  That means, with the three buttons (assuming that each device does NOT share the same radio frequency) you can have three different hotkeys assigned. One to each clicker!

The only downside is that you have to make sure that each device isn’t “Cross Talking” over the other.  Most manufactuers don’t assume three of the same type of clicker is going to be used, so they tend to just copy the same radio frequiency for all.  Always double and triple check any infra-red and radio based device BEFORE the show for interference!

Yes, there are other, more stable and more effective ways to remote launch cues. But if you are on a super shoestring budget, in community theatre or even in high school, this is the tool for you!

Um…So i think my tablet just straight up died???


I have a Huion 580 and it was working fine an hour ago. But then i unplugged it and shut down my computer cuz i was moving it. I restarted the computer and it performed some stupid Windows update that it does like every month. But when i plugged my tablet back in…nothing happened. 

Usually the little green light flashes for a bit and then it connects but the light never flashed. I restarted my computer a million times, uninstalled and reinstalled the USB drivers, uninstalled and reinstalled the tablet drivers, tested other USB devices in the same port (all responded) but my tablet simply won’t???

Again, not even the little green light flashed indicating that the computer could see it. So my computer doesn’t even know that something is plugged into that port. 

I’m…at a loss…Idk what else to do. I’ll have to test it on another computer when i get the chance to confirm if it’s dead.

U2F with Yubikeys

During our recent hackday we wanted to explore new ways to login to Tumblr and play with some cool toys. The following is not an announcement of any kind, other than that U2F is awesome and everyone should buy a Yubikey (they aren’t paying us to say this, we swear).

Authenticating your online identity

If you’ve ever logged into any website on the internet, chances are you’ve been through an authentication flow. You provide the site with a username you use to identify yourself on that platform, followed by a password that (in theory) only you know to prove that you are you. If all that matches what the site has in their database, you’re authenticated! However, that particular flow only represents a single factor of authentication, the “knowledge factor” (because you know your password). But even if you have a highly complex password, unique to that one site, that probably won’t be enough to really secure your account from unauthorized access. That’s why we provide the ability (and highly encourage users) to enable Two-Factor Authentication (2FA).

Traditionally, 2FA is done either via SMS or through an authenticator app (i.e. Duo, Authy, Google Authenticator, etc). But what happens if you don’t have reception, how will you receive a text message? What if there’s an issue with the authenticator service, and you don’t have a fallback? Surely there has to be a realistic and practical option past what industry has been relying on that can help mitigate some of these issues.

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submitted by Christian Borku

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Every day I move about 30km to reach my office in the morning before leaving attempted home pick in my backpack all the things that will help me to spend the day in the city of Barcelona (Spain), including articles survival to help me spend a few hours in case of disaster. After leaving the army (The Spanish Legion) I decided to finish my studies in fine arts at the university and devote myself to the overall design and now have my own design studio (Borku Branding Studio / I am a big fan of survival and I love the forest and outdoor camping whenever I have a chance to escape the city.


So I bought this thing a while back for a photography class and it was a pretty expensive thing that I only got like a semester’s use out of… I wanted to keep it because I had fun taking pictures but honestly I’ve already forgotten how to get ideal photos and I haven’t really felt the need to have anything more powerful than my iPhone for taking pics. I’m not a photographer! Haha.

So I’m looking to sell it! 

Things it comes with:

  • Sony A300 DSLR Camera
  • 18-55mm Lens w/ Lens Cap
  • Rechargeable Battery w/ Adapter 
  • USB cord for…………. something I can’t remember
  • Micro SD USB for devices without an SD slot
  • Carrying bag

I’m looking for something around $150-$170 for it all or under special circumstances, like if you’re a student who would love to use it for school or something special, I can discount it further! I bought it for around $200 with my own money, so hopefully I can make a little bit off of it haha. 

If you’re interested, please throw me an ask or an e-mail at

I can ship anywhere in the US! 

Ok, I’m asking for help.

For two days  now my laptop has hit the shitter basically. I’m currently typing on it rn, but its flashing all the lights at me and my 3 usb ports are shit. I cant plug any of  my USB devices in, except my tablet  but its lags so much. And it can only be plugged to one side. It also over heats pretty quickly without a fan constantly on it (even looking on the web kills it). Its one thing if it was just the battery   (which its my laptop has always drained it faster than hell.  You think you got an hour left? Nah its gonna die in less than 20 minutes), but when my entire left side of my laptop is not functional, I think the motherboard is saying their farewells. 

I have a laptop in mind that I’m wanting to get to replace this 7-8 year old laptop. However its around $450 - $500. It would be able to handle some of my more heavy duty art programs and such.

So right now, I’m  asking for either donations (my PayPal is ) or at least commission me.  That way you get something in the end. I’m only asking because I need a laptop/computer to work on commissions, keep in touch with friends, among so many other things. And this has  been a thorn  in  my side for while now but its now really taking its toll.

So  please, if you can, please help out. If you cant donate or commission me, reblog and signal boost this.  Please and thank you.

submitted by Jarren

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As a minimalist, motorcyclist and pilot, I needed to build an EDC that balanced portability and utility. With this EDC I have the tools to perform most repairs and regular maintenance on my Ducati, work around the house and complete emergency repairs on my plane. I have enough power to keep my phone, watch, flashlight and iPad going for nearly a week. All while maintaining an incredibly small and lightweight footprint.

“The Device” - I got a preview of this device today from one of my students. The photograph really does not do justice to the work that has gone into this, there is quite a lot of stuff packed into this handful. 

Everything is powered by a phone battery (to the right) through USB connections. The 4 port hub on the left has individual switches, there is a battery recharger to the top and a wifi card in the middle which sits over the top of a removable very flat mouse.

All of this sits in a metal frame that can comfortably seat a netbook or notepad and underneath all of this is a CDROM drive (because netbook’s don’t have CD drives). Underneath that(!) is a turntable that enables everything to spin 360 degrees. 

Apparently the next step is to put a remote control car chassis underneath so that the device and the netbook on top of it can be summoned up. Oh, and somewhere amongst all of this is also a pen holder. The interesting part of this is that all the components are relatively common place and cheap - it is the integration of all these that components that make it interesting.

I was quite impressed and could see how the steampunk folks could model this up but equally a more industrial design sentiment could be applied. With the wonders of miniaturisation I can see how the Doctor’s sonic screwdriver started.