Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 07
For Groundhog Day one year ago, rather than treating myself to leftover wines that were rebottled and stored in the fridge, I made brand new attempts on wines that I had previously opened during recent days and that I thought deserved a second chance to prove themselves (which really means, yes indeed I was treating myself to leftover fridge wine but I was convincing myself it was a fresh first impression I was making, and that this time circumstances would shine more kindly these wines).
It seemed like that sentence would never end.
First up, the Verdicchio - this was a nice cheap (really cheap, as I explained two days ago when I uncorked it) expression of the grape, if sweetened up a tad too much. I only realize that I like the bitter/sharp qualities of this varietal once they are taken out of the mix. So though I don’t really like this wine any more than when I first tasted it, I feel like I better understand it, and might buy it again, perhaps to ease recalcitrant types into this style of wine - the kind of people who might balk at a high-acid bone-dry Verdicchio. I know a few.
Domenico Clerico Visadi Dolcetto Langhe 06
This was the confounding $25 Dolcetto from yesterday, now showing better with a bold and hardy rigatoni, garnished with fried capicola, olives, Parmesan cheese and onion in a lusty red wine and tomato sauce. I had to because this is not the Dolcetto of cold cuts and picnics. This needs amped-up, smokier, saltier and all-around more pungent fare.
The wine itself pretty much drinks the same after 24 hours recorked in half-size wine bottle, and for me - because I am so dependent on Dolcetto drinking well with food - it’s really the accompaniment that makes this bottle sink or swim. But what a thing to say! This is essentially the grounds on which I diss New World monsters. Applying it to Dolcetto is nothing less than a stinging slap in the face. So of course I will not be going after more of this anytime soon.