However, if your drawing is worse than your standard; then you need other’s advice or learn from other’s drawing. 

Moreover, you will never reach your own standard until you die. Is it despair? No, it means you will have endless exciting adventures. The real despair is when you’re too perfect that you don’t know what to do. Enjoy your endless trip to be ‘almost’ perfect. 


Hello my friendzzz!!! ahm sorry long post.. <_<’’
I took advantage of these 2 questions I received to do this little post to show how I work with traditional drawings!! 
I had to use a little drawing because (COFFCOFF) I was at work, but if you want I can do this thing with a bigger drawing :) (or not, it’s probably not so interesting to make another one XD)

So, here you go! I hope someone will find it useful :)
Ah, Mirana’s vallaslins are not brown, but i didn’t have my white pen with me. So.. brown, XD


@xsunset-bright asked for a tutorial on how i draw my Sonic Chara’s a LOOOONNGG time ago and so i decided to do that now! Since i finally had some time to do it npn

I hope these help some of you! And if there is anything that you’d like me to make a tutorial on that isn’t on here, please tell me! ;v;


Finally done! My first tutorial and I probably made like a million mistakes and typos :B

I would like to first point out that this tutorial is not for you to rip-off my style with. I do everything I can to make sure my style is original and distinct and therefore I wouldn’t like someone else copying it. What this is for is for you to use the technique and apply it to your own style of artwork. I’m not sure how many people will actually care about me saying this but it would be nice if you could use your own style instead. Thank you! <3

If you have any doubts or spot any big mistakes in this, let me know by sending me a message or whatever. I’d also really love to see what you guys make using this tutorial (if you do) so if you tag it #purplecritter I’ll check it out!

I also wanted to add that I was very much inspired by some amazing art idols of mine such as CanisAlbus, RAE-J and Skia! I probably forgot a bunch of other inspirations but these are the main ones at least.

More of my polygonal art can be found here: http://pistachiofox.tumblr.com/search/polygonal



Folded from 15cm kami.

Kind of my own variation on the traditional swan.

It seems an obvious base with a very simple fold sequence so maybe there is another very similar design out there. Or possibly flocks of them. But I liked this and I couldn’t see anything quite like it, so I’m posting it here. Now I’m waiting to hear “I designed that years ago.”

Diagram note.

This is drawn with the ipad app iDraw, the first diagram I’ve completed in that app. I will have to do more before I decide if I’m going to switch from my usual Inkpad. It is a very close call workflow wise. But interesting how the app leads me to make a more precise, but also more rigid diagram, where my Inkpad efforts were getting more supple.

Queadlunn- I started out prop making by building model kits; Japanese robot kits, Star Trek, and aircraft primarily. I’ve been using that same skill set to make every one of my props from space guns, a lunchbox-shaped class mod, and even the books I’ve been making. It’s all about understanding the materials, how they react to work applied to them, and how other materials react to them. 

I know some of the plastics I use aren’t that commonly used in cosplay but who knows, maybe one of them will be perfect for something you may work on. I’ll be focusing on the four main types of plastic I use for my projects: 

Foamed PVC Sheet (AKA Sintra, Palram): https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/foamed_pvc_sheets/342 

This is something I’ve started to use in the last couple years. It’s a rigid plastic that’s softer than styrene or ABS and don’t let the ‘foamed’ part of the name fool you, this is a sheet plastic. It’s great for a number of uses. I use it mostly for creating mock-ups of things I’m working on or to create parts that have to have some kind of carved detail. It’s really easy to machine, carve, and sand but it isn’t the strongest material so I’d suggest either not using it as the primary material or using something thicker than 5mm. Both of Cata’s sword are 1/2″ Sintra with no internal support.

Most common in black, gray and white. It’s available in a range of thicknesses and colors. 

Example: Sfika Pistol. The frame was made out of 8mm Sintra to save weight. 

Sheet Styrene: http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/styrene_high_impact/560 

A mainstay of scale modeling and signmaking. It’s a tough, resilient plastic that’s great for heat-forming, score-n-snap cutting, carving, and sanding. It can be a bit tough to machine with hand tools when over 3mm thick so I’ll usually laminate styrene on top of another material if I need to do panel lining or similar kinds of detail. With some care it can also be drilled out and tapped for machine screws. 

Most common in opaque white, available in a wide range of thicknesses. 

Example: FF7 Cid Spear. The crossguard linking piece was made surfaced and detailed with Styrene 

ABS: http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/abs_sheets/524

My current go-to plastic. It’s tough but flexible and very resilient. It doesn’t hold carved detail the best but if you use a fusing adhesive on it you could whip the parts across the street and only get some surface damage. I’ve been using this at the 'structure’ component to a number of my prop designs (the Carnifex and Tricorder being the best examples) while adding additional materials for detail. Another plastic that’s great for heat-forming, score-n-snap cutting and sanding. 

Most common in black with a textured side, available in a few colors and thicknesses. 

Example: Tricorder. I’m making the body out of ABS for strength. 

Polycarbonate (AKA Lexan, Makrolon): http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/polycarbonate_sheets/516 

If I could I would make nearly everything out of polycarbonate. This is the material that many 'bullet-resistant’ windows, aircraft canopies, and optical lenses are made out of. It’s incredibly tough and can be cold-formed (with tools like a sheet metal break), heat formed, sawed, carved, and sanded. Unlike Plexiglas/Acrylic sheet, it does not shatter or crack and thus can be used as a load bearing/stresses component and even takes tapping for machine screws wonderfully. Since it is incredibly tough and resilient it does require power tools or shop tools if you’re dealing with anything thicker than 2 or 3mm. 

Most common in optically clear, frosted and smoke, comes in a wide range thicknesses and a few colors. 

Example: Glass Knife 

Note: Each of these kinds of plastics has it’s own kind of fusing adhesive where the two parts being fused together are melted by the adhesive’s solvents. Standard kinds of glue (in my case, CA and epoxies) also work fine. When in doubt, use something like 80-grit sandpaper to prep the surfaces to give the glue more to hold on to. 

Also Note: Heat forming without dedicated equipment (heat gun, not hair dryer), reading/understanding the MSDS, and not understanding the possible out-gassing that each material will go through while heated is NOT SOMETHING I WOULD RECOMMEND TO ANYONE. Last thing you want is to gas yourself with Chlorine coming off of hot Sintra or to go past the auto-ignition point of something and start a house fire. STAY SAFE.


Colin’s Super-Awesome Drawing Do’s and Don’ts™

  1. Remember, as tempting as it is – don’t make Shaggy’s head be shaped like a giant gourd!
  2. Don’t forget – vans usually have steering wheels of some form!
  3. Freddy is known for having a face – don’t forget to give him one!
  4. If Scooby is supposed to be 10-15 feet further back than the rest of the gang, don’t draw him the same size as he normally is – without forced perspective, it implies he’s really a giant!
  5. And for that matter, don’t place Scooby on top of Freddy’s head like some kind of weird hat!

…ok, so, maybe I should have just titled it “Colin’s Super-Awesome Drawing Don’ts™


For the Anon who wanted a “tutorial” on how i do my MX photographs, well, here ya go. I’m kinda tired and i’m woozy so just make do with this okay? :)

This just covers shooting multi-exposure photographs on a Nikon FM10 SLR, ‘cause that’s what i use for my MX takes. I’m well aware of the “tricking the advance lever technique” by pushing the sprocket release pin while advancing the film, but that’s not really accurate and i don’t really do that, cause the FM10 has a lever dedicated for MX so why should i? :))

1. Load film on your Nikon FM10 SLR (Slide films with their outrageous color shifts and contrasts work best for MX photographs, but any film would do)

2. Shoot your first frame of the MX photo, nothing fancy, just shoot like you normally shoot

3. After shooting the first frame, push the small MX lever of the FM10 and hold it in the “pushed position” (cause it recoils if you don’t) while you advance the film with the advance lever (yes, it really involves a lot of awkward finger action, trust me)

4. Having done number 3 successfully, you’ll notice that the film counter did not move to the next number so you’re good and set to shoot the second frame of the MX photograph

5. Shoot that second frame like you normally shoot 

6. There you have it, you now have an MX photograph in that roll of film (you can actually repeat steps 3 onward to “stack” more exposures, but i only recommend at most three stacks 'cause by MX-ing and MX-ing, you’re exposing the same film frame again and again, risking overexposure


- If you want to have a “dominant” frame and a “ghost” frame in the photograph, correctly expose the frame you want dominant and underexpose the intended “ghost” frame (tidbit: i always shoot the dominant frame first)

- If you want to have equally blended frames in a photograph then correctly expose both of 'em

- Try to find subjects that really contrast each other in terms of lighting and color for a good blend, else, it’ll just look like a fugly piece of shite

- When i do parallel MX photographs, i just shoot the first frame normally, then turn the camera upside down, and shoot the second frame, then tadaaah, parallel MX! 

P.S. Thank you very much to Kimi Juan of kimikarma.tumblr.com for informing me about the existence of the FM10’s MX lever. Srsly, i had this SLR for like 4 years now and just realized you can do MXs with it like last year or something. :))

So there. :)