However, if your drawing is worse than your standard; then you need other’s advice or learn from other’s drawing. 

Moreover, you will never reach your own standard until you die. Is it despair? No, it means you will have endless exciting adventures. The real despair is when you’re too perfect that you don’t know what to do. Enjoy your endless trip to be ‘almost’ perfect. 


Hello my friendzzz!!! ahm sorry long post.. <_<’’
I took advantage of these 2 questions I received to do this little post to show how I work with traditional drawings!! 
I had to use a little drawing because (COFFCOFF) I was at work, but if you want I can do this thing with a bigger drawing :) (or not, it’s probably not so interesting to make another one XD)

So, here you go! I hope someone will find it useful :)
Ah, Mirana’s vallaslins are not brown, but i didn’t have my white pen with me. So.. brown, XD


@xsunset-bright asked for a tutorial on how i draw my Sonic Chara’s a LOOOONNGG time ago and so i decided to do that now! Since i finally had some time to do it npn

I hope these help some of you! And if there is anything that you’d like me to make a tutorial on that isn’t on here, please tell me! ;v;



Folded from 15cm kami.

Kind of my own variation on the traditional swan.

It seems an obvious base with a very simple fold sequence so maybe there is another very similar design out there. Or possibly flocks of them. But I liked this and I couldn’t see anything quite like it, so I’m posting it here. Now I’m waiting to hear “I designed that years ago.”

Diagram note.

This is drawn with the ipad app iDraw, the first diagram I’ve completed in that app. I will have to do more before I decide if I’m going to switch from my usual Inkpad. It is a very close call workflow wise. But interesting how the app leads me to make a more precise, but also more rigid diagram, where my Inkpad efforts were getting more supple.


For the Anon who wanted a “tutorial” on how i do my MX photographs, well, here ya go. I’m kinda tired and i’m woozy so just make do with this okay? :)

This just covers shooting multi-exposure photographs on a Nikon FM10 SLR, ‘cause that’s what i use for my MX takes. I’m well aware of the “tricking the advance lever technique” by pushing the sprocket release pin while advancing the film, but that’s not really accurate and i don’t really do that, cause the FM10 has a lever dedicated for MX so why should i? :))

1. Load film on your Nikon FM10 SLR (Slide films with their outrageous color shifts and contrasts work best for MX photographs, but any film would do)

2. Shoot your first frame of the MX photo, nothing fancy, just shoot like you normally shoot

3. After shooting the first frame, push the small MX lever of the FM10 and hold it in the “pushed position” (cause it recoils if you don’t) while you advance the film with the advance lever (yes, it really involves a lot of awkward finger action, trust me)

4. Having done number 3 successfully, you’ll notice that the film counter did not move to the next number so you’re good and set to shoot the second frame of the MX photograph

5. Shoot that second frame like you normally shoot 

6. There you have it, you now have an MX photograph in that roll of film (you can actually repeat steps 3 onward to “stack” more exposures, but i only recommend at most three stacks 'cause by MX-ing and MX-ing, you’re exposing the same film frame again and again, risking overexposure


- If you want to have a “dominant” frame and a “ghost” frame in the photograph, correctly expose the frame you want dominant and underexpose the intended “ghost” frame (tidbit: i always shoot the dominant frame first)

- If you want to have equally blended frames in a photograph then correctly expose both of 'em

- Try to find subjects that really contrast each other in terms of lighting and color for a good blend, else, it’ll just look like a fugly piece of shite

- When i do parallel MX photographs, i just shoot the first frame normally, then turn the camera upside down, and shoot the second frame, then tadaaah, parallel MX! 

P.S. Thank you very much to Kimi Juan of kimikarma.tumblr.com for informing me about the existence of the FM10’s MX lever. Srsly, i had this SLR for like 4 years now and just realized you can do MXs with it like last year or something. :))

So there. :)

Free Android Tutorials!

 Android Development Introduction

Special Android Programming Topics


please click any photo to enlarge the photos ❤
or: view the post . in my blog the tutorial looks at it’s best.

Step 1: File>New

These are the settings I usually use. If you’re going to post it on Tumblr it is important for the width to be 500 px . It depends on you what height are you going to use. If you’re making Twitter headers it must be 480px x 320px . That’s what I use.. If you think It’s too much or less then you can do some adjustments on it.

Now, now,

Step 2 : PLACE your photo

I know everyone knows how to place a photo. After you place it use the Quick Selection Tool or the Lasso Tool.. whatever you may like.

I wanna say the Quick Selection Tool is easier to use than Lasso.. but I use Lasso when it is hard to select using Quick Selection. Lasso is for detailed or hard to select photos.. for example: Harry’s exposed curly hair. If you use Lasso make sure you could make it as a figure, I mean the tip of the first line will meet with it’s end.
Back to the Quick Selection Tool.. Make sure it is added to selection (marked pink in the photo) . If you did it too much causing the selection to go to further directions then use the subtract from selection, (marked blue in the photo) . Beside it you can adjust the size of your brush. You can use Lasso together with your selection. Just make sure it connects to it.
Continue Selecting.

Step 3 : Select > Refine Edge

These are my settings. I don’t change it so this is what I use all the time. You can play those adjustments as long as it won’t be too much. It will appear ugly . If you did it right, your selection is still visible (those trace lines ) .

Step 4: Expand

Select > Modify > Expand

is best to use 4-5 pixels. If you won’t expand it the photo won’t look like it was for a collage.


Do Ctrl+J (copies layer)
Notice that the layer you selected was a Smart Object now.
After that you delete the original photo.

Step 5 : Add more photos

Do the same tricks on it.. I must say the order of the photos/layers are important. See this 

Now, Fast Forward

(the size changed bc I just changed it haha)

Now, now, as you can see there are things I have added, overlays.
There are so many overlays around Tumblr so you can find some on your own. But if you want more just search on Tumblr or WeHeartIt for the tags #overlays #transparent #transparenices #transparency 

If you saw your overlay in this photo just notify me, I didn’t mean to steal. I will give credits to you.

Step 6 : Add a PSD

If you don’t add a PSD the collage will be so plain , so I advise you to use. I get PSDs here : (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

Make sure it is on top of all the layers.  Just ask me if you don’t know how to use PSDs.

There! You can go save it!
Ask me if you wanna have the photo I did.
Like or Reblog if I helped.
Ask me for further questions ♡