tunnel piece

Stays Tutorial Part 5 (finally!)

So the last part of the tutorial is finally here! (Almost a year after I begun it!)

Your first time here? You don’t know what we are talking about? Well, take a look at the Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4 of this tutorial. The rest of us, let’s continue:

Step 14 is correct the final pattern and cut the fabric

First you have to draw the changes from the fitting on the pattern. Take a look at my mockup stays and the corrected pattern (and the best table cloth ever!): I needed a bigger armhole and changed the front to a curve, since this (with an eyelet and linen tape or ribbon) will attach the shoulder strap.

Now you have to cut the definitive stuff: 2 layers of base fabric (again!), 1 layer of the outer fabric and 1 layer of lining (linen or cotton for this, the photo is my lining).

Step 15 is sewing the boning tunnels

Remember the first part of this tutorial when you choose if you wanted visible or not visible tunnels? Well, now is the time to choose: if not visible, you’ll sew the tunnels only on the base fabric (the two layers together), if visible you’ll sew over the main and base fabrics (all three layers together). Now wait! You must sew a running stitch all around ALL your pieces of base and main fabric (I use a contrast thread to be easily taken away later).

For visible tunnels the running stitch will be set BEFORE sewing the tunnels. For not visible tunnels you’ll fix the pieces with the running stitch AFTER you sew the tunnels.

I decided I wanted visible tunnels and I sew all of them by hand (am I crazy? May be yes, what can I say). You can do it with a machine if you’re not ready for this. I used a back stitch with a tread of the same colour of the fabric (a contrast colour is prettier, but any mistake or imperfection will be clearer).

This step is probably the slowest and longest. This is how mine ended up looking (my stitches are not that perfect, but don’t judge me XD):

Step 16 is sew together the parts

We’ll do this exactly like in the part 3 of the tutorial for all the parts: iron the allowances and whip stitch (if you do it by hand) or sew and after iron the allowances (if you do it with a machine).

After doing this you’ll have 2 sets of the stays: one set of the main and base fabric and one set of the lining. Now is the time for putting in the boning. It will look like this:

Step 17 is joining both sets and finishing

Now is the time to join lining and main fabric (or lining, base and main fabric), first with a running stitch and to finish it we’ll close with a tape (if you wanna be historically accurate it may be a silk ribbon or something liek that) or with a bias tape that you can buy or cut from the same main fabric (which will be easier to set).

First I set it with pins and after that I put a running stitch all around (here are photos from outside and inside):

Then you can cut the bottom tabs open and set the the tape. But i didn’t take a photo of that. Because of course. BUT you can see THIS VIDEO of how to bind, it’s just like binding a quilt and this woman explains it very easily. Just be careful with the corners.VERY CAREFUL. What I do if it’s too difficult is set the tape with a running stitch, then set it with machine (or by hand) and then fold it back and close with an invisible stitch (which is what I did here).

Step 16 is make the eyelets

There are basically two options here: make eyelets by hand or set metal eyelets. I set metal eyelets because I suck at making eyelets and buttonholes by hand, so I decided to avoid the ugly results. Now let’s be careful about the way you’ll mark the eyelets since they are not supposed to be perfectly symmetrical. Do it like this:

And this is how the shoulder strap eyelet looks like (I love to tie a little ribbon there, even if no one will see it!):

Now that it is finished I think I should have used a contrasting binding, maybe baby pink. The ribbon I used today is mint, but I like to use a pink one (sorry I do not know where did I put it XD). And it is finished. One of these days I’ll show how it looks like on, but if you make your own stays, please show us how does it look like!

Have fun sewing everyone <3

Originally posted by nitratediva

The Signs as Neko Atsume things:

Aries: Wood Pail/Cake Box
Taurus: Cowboy Hat/Cat Pancake
Gemini: (Blue) Bucket/Scratching Log
Cancer: Fish-stick Tunnel/Watermelon Ball
Leo: Pile of Leaves/(Yellow) Rubber Ball
Virgo: Art Deco Cat Tree/Glass Vase
Libra: Bureau with Pot/Stress Reliever 
Scorpio: Chestnut Cushion/Baseball 
Sagittarius: (Blizzard) Tent/Pink Cushion
Capricorn: (3D Piece) Tunnel/Sheep Cushion
Aquarius: (Fish) Kick Toy/Navy-blue Cube
Pisces: Carp Tunnel/Beach umbrella 

peachprivileges  asked:

i finally got all of the cats a few days ago, and now im just missing one goodie until i have them all ^-^ any suggestions of toys to get more fish from the cats? or is that even possible?

Congratulations! :D Whoooooa that’s cool! xD I was dead set in buying all the goodies after I got all of them too haha It is sort of possible, according to the data that I’ve collected ^^

I highly rec these items to always be out whenever you’re thinking of getting a fish boost!

Baseball, Rubber Ball (blue), Ping Pong Ball, Shopping Box (small), Cardboard Choo-Choo, Silk Crepe Pillow, Cushion (Green), Thick Cooling Pad, Head Space and Black Head Space, Zanzibar Cushion, Paper Umbrella, Tunnel (3D Piece), Tail-thing Teaser, Wing-thing Teaser, Mister Mouse, Kick Toy (mouse, bunny, saury), Kotatsu, Hot mat (small), Scratching Board, Scratching Post, Fruit Basket and Planter.

There you go! But you totally have to have the Cardboard Choo-Choo, Paper Umbrella, Kotatsu and Zanzibar Cushion! :D Happy Nekollecting!!

~ Nekollector Nora