troll tutorial

Act 4: Trolls as Manifestations

Homestuck gains complexity through iterations, in plot, setting, and character. As the tutorial character, John’s actions are straightforward and relatively easy to follow, which sets the stage for grander installments. John’s plain house and Dad are followed by the increasingly complex circumstances of his friends. John’s ability to combine items across captchalogue cards (1917) is a primer for combining items via alchemy. If a rule is introduced through John, subsequent iterations of the rule will be more grandiose.

So, an observation: John is afraid of heights. When John slips on a staircase, he flips out (2460). When he nearly launches himself into the abyss with the Pogo Hammer, he has to take a nap before he has calmed down enough to continue (2537). Immediately following both moments of vertigo, massive ogres begin to climb toward John’s house (2461, 2542). The eventual fight with the ogres begins after John looks over the roof of his house, into the abyss (2562-3).

All of this suggests that Sburb is reacting to John’s emotional state (fear) to produce in-game content. This is further suggested by a peek we get at some of Sburb’s internal processes (3419):

Here, we have reference to terminology associated with Carl Jung and Sigmund Freud. The terms suggest that Sburb interacts with the ideas in the kids’ subconscious minds (archetypes) and brings symbolic representations of these ideas into conscious reality (manifests the ideas). Like, pipes are Johns’s dad symbol (1974), so LOWAS is covered in pipes as a subconscious reminder of his dad. Or, Dave is surrounded by dangerous sharp objects in his apartment, so LOHAC is full of grinding metal gears to subtly (?) remind him of his awful, awful home.

Even before we reach the kids’ planets though, John’s encounter with the ogres asserts Sburb’s dream-like nature. The “hyper flexible mythology” of Sburb  is essentially the same as Freudian dream logic – Sburb caused John’s latent fear of heights to manifest as real, punchable monsters.

But if you look through Homestuck for things that materialize due to emotional events, it doesn’t stop with imps and monsters. It also includes the trolls.

Keep reading


im sleepy and my rinto model glitched an issue that i think might be pretty super common amongst editors/modellers so i did a quick sleep-deprived tutorial to teach u how to fix this dumb glitch 

this hack is 100% real trust me, i know it sounds bizarre and incredibly stupid and silly and idek how i managed to solve it but don’t kill me until u try it bc i can guarantee that in 9/10 instances it works (trust me i have conducted a survey with myself as the only surveyee)

edit: perhaps i am the only person that gets this issue but who knows


yo yo yo, wuddup. you guys like homestuck? you guys like cosplay?? you guys like makeup tutorials??? well shucks, i sure do got a thing for you wow.

this is just a basic male troll makeup tutorial that you can change up and use for whatever troll you’re cosplaying. for this I’m using karkat as my base….because he’s fun….but take out the angry brows and “haven’t’ slept in a sweep” shading under the eyes and you’ve got your basic male troll.

now let’s rock n roll

STEP 1: take a “before” selfie because that’s what all the cool kids do.


STEP 2: got eyebrows? glue that shit down. don’t got eyebrows? shit, son, you’re already way ahead of me, skip this step.

i use this, it’s nice. it’s disappearing purple. it comes out purple and then it disappears. wow. cool. now you don’t necessarily have to do this step but i would recommend it because it’ll help you get a more even coat of paint over that area and if you have obnoxious curly old man brows like me it’ll keep them out of the way.

STEP 3: prime your eyelids (optional, cover your lips and brows)

priming your eyelids is very important, it’ll help prevent those little creases on your eyelids! covering your lips is great if you tend to use your mouth a lot, over time the makeup may crack and wear off, this’ll help keep the makeup on longer. covering your brows will help give you a more even space to work with (helps hide your brows)

if you look anything like this, a+, you are damn sexy, unf.

STEP 4: dig out your weapon of choice i mean grey makeup, and paint yourself up for battle i mean cosplay

this step is pretty self explanatory. take that shit, rub it on your face. i like to use snazaroo a lot but use whatever you feel most comfortable with.

(optional step: run around scaring small children and unsuspecting civilians)

STEP 5: SEAL IT. for the love of gosh-diddly-darnnit seal your grey. i don’t have any pictures for this step because….i just don’t, what do you want from me. but yeah, some translucent powder, some ben bye final seal, you’re good.

this is usually were people are like “WELL I’M GREY TIME TO PARTY” which is a-okay, you do what you want, bro, have fun and enjoy your cosplay~


STEP 6: contour! grab your choice of medium grey eyeshadow (matte, no sparkle or glitter) and contour your face to give it more definition.

since karkat is always angry let’s take the contouring up on the inner corners of the eyebrows. also add a little more shading under the eyes because kid never sleeps or something idk just do it….or not, idc

STEP 7: smudge some black lipstick on.

“BUT HE’S A BOY, HE DOESN’T WEAR LIPSTICK.” sit the fudge down. we don’t want to add too much because, yeah, it’ll look like you’re wearing lipstick, but just smudge on a little near the inside of your lip and bring it out to the edges. it’s more aesthetically pleasing and you don’t look so dead.

i also added a little more of a darker grey under the eyes here.

STEP 8: add some eyebrows.

since this is a cosplay i like to go all out and exaggerate the brows because, really, why the fudge not. go big or go home. bump up that eyebrow game. do it. or don’t, it’s up to you man.

STEP 9: now that you’ve got your disney villain eyebrows seal it again. THAT’S RIGHT, we just sealed this shit twice. don’t question it, just do it.

STEP 10: slap a wig on and call it done. (or, you know, put on the whole cosplay, whatever)

that’s it. that’s the tutorial.


have fun cleaning that off.

Maddi's Homestuck Makeup Tutorial

WELL, there’s this long process that goes into how I do make-up, but it works really well ! It doesn’t smudge and does not require to be set with powder! AT. ALL. (I still like to dust on some NYX HD Studio Finishing Powder because it gives it a softer finish) It doesn’t come off on clothes EITHER. Only minor touch ups throughout the day, but otherwise, it’s a technique I came up with that’s damn near flawless.

So, product wise, I use the Mehron Star Blend Cake Makeup in Monster Gray, and the Paradise Cake Makeup (it’s part of Mehron) in White 

They look like this

With my makeup I use 2 special tricks that (I’d LIKE to say) I invented.

1.Barrier Spray

2.Hairspray + Water

Before applying the grey, I spray my face using Mehron’s Barrier Spray (BLESS UP, THIS STUFF IS AMAZING, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND)

What barrier spray does is create a barrier between your skin and the makeup. It also acts as an antiperspirant so you don’t sweat all your makeup off and it comes in handy when this makeup is activated by water. 

Next, I apply a makeup primer (I just use the NYX Photo-Loving Primer for my face and the Urban Decay Primer Potion for my eyes)

THEN for applying the grey (here’s where my second trick comes into play) 

I add water to the cap of the Monster grey makeup (very minimal amount of water)

Then I spray hairspray into the cap like so. BUT when adding the hairspray, if you add too much, it can result in your makeup cracking. You need the exact same amount of water as you do hairspray; it may take some practice.

And it’ll look a little something like this (picture below) 

Then you take a brush and dip it in the hairspray/water mix and swirl it in the white. (REMEMBER: A little goes a long way! Less is more!)

Then swirl it in the monster gray

Then apply!

MAKE SURE that when you’re applying, that you apply in the same direction throughout because it’ll streak and stay streaked if you don’t!

After you coat the rest of your hand ^, add contours and highlights (Like I did in the picture above, very subtle on the hand. I use the Naked Basics palette for my contours and highlights; Venus for a shimmery pearl highlight, and Crave for the contours)

Then decorate and add the extra detail (This would be for Feferi or any other Pisces character)

And here would be the finished product (If I did the other half of my face and put on my wig)

(and without the spots if you don’t usually apply the spots)

Thank you and I hope you can use my technique in the future! It does take some practice, but the results are GREAT. 

And all these photos are unedited and in shitty lighting, so imagine how it’ll look walking around a convention.

I’ll post a video tutorial on how I do my usually Feferi Makeup in the future since I get a lot of compliments on it at conventions

moonlotion  asked:

Hello!! I have a question about your Cronus cosplay How did you attach your horns? I've been having so much trouble with my own ヽ(;▽;)ノ

Cry no more Kat, for I have the solution to your problem:

Behold! My lazy tutorial on how to attach troll horns!

So here we have our wig and our horns. Now, how to attach them? (Note: My horns are made of lightweight clay, so they weigh next to nothing. If you make your horns out of something heavier, this method might not work!)

Here is our secret weapon: paper binders! They’re basically these small little metal thingies that open up when bent. You can get these pretty much anywhere from hardware stores to crafts stores and they cost just a couple of euros.

You need about 4-5 per horn, depending on how many you can fit (remember to make sure each one has enough space to open). Just hot glue them on like I’ve done below:

Next step is to get a piece of thin cardboard (Note: it needs to be thick enough not to rip) and make holes for the paper binders’ “legs”. We’re going to use the cardboard a bit later, so don’t put it on the horn yet!

Now it’s time to attach the horns! Put the wig on a wig head and see where the horn looks good (Note: This works the best if the bottoms of your horns are modified to fit with your head’s curves. This prevents the horns from sticking out unnaturally).

When you’ve found the perfect spot, just stick it in! You need to push the paper binders’ legs through the wig cap like this:

Now just put the cardboard piece inside the wig and bend the paper binders:

Lastly put on the wig and see what it looks like. You might need to take the horns off a few times and try again, but I’m sure you’ll get it right eventually! In the end it should look something like this:

And there you go! If you have more questions or something was left unclear, don’t hesitate to ask! Hopefully this was useful :>





  1. take a lipbrush(or your fingers) and rub the gooey stuff on your lips!
  2. take the colour of choice on a eyeshadow brush(or again your fingers) and pat it on! NOTE*IT mayyy take a couple of coats but it shouldnt take so long
  3. Take a damp tissue and clean up the edges

IT ALSO WORKS FOR EYES! Just repeat the steps above and your eyeshadow will not fade nor crease! And removal it just wipe it away!(it will be a bit harder on eyes but not too much!)


ignore my crappy phone!


Good luck dolls!~






(Eng.ver) How to make your fake troll teeth

I see many requests in the russian blogs about fake teeth or how to do this every day. Also I saw before few not really good tutorials explaining how to do them using fimoplastic, but it costs too low. Also my past variant was crafted from fake nails, but it looked not so perfect and natural as I wanted. Recently I found another way of how to do this. It seems not expensive and practical to me.

To say briefly - Polymorphus  is a plastic, that melts in water at a temperature that is higher than ~ 65° , also it is similar to clay, perhaps a little more sticky.

The benefit of this plastic is:

-         In contrast with polimer clay, after curing the plastic becomes very light.

-         While polymorphus hardens you can easily cut and shape it.

-         Polymorph dries veeeeeeeery quickly.

-         It doesn’t stain the mouth while wearing: you will not need to put anything additional on It, ‘cause mold made from the shape of your jaw will perfectly fit your teeth.

-         You can use your polymorphus many times: it can be shaped again if you place it in a hot water.

-         It doesn’t break (if you’re not Equius, of course :D)

So let’s get started.

Before you try to do something, you will need:

- Polymorphus

- scissors

- a little bit of dye (it can be two kinds: liquid and granulated, but ways of using it are similar).

- Super glue, which has cianoacrylate (it usually is put into small tubes and helps to glue the material literally forever in 2-3 seconds. As example, my poor fingers xD)

- 2 disposable plastic cups (folded into each other, so hot water won’t burna  hole in it) and a disposable plastic cutlery (except forks!).

Please, don’t use your real cutlery, if you don’t want to drink/eat the chemicals!

- The most important thing for us – hot water! You only need to boil your kettle to get the right temperature, we need 100°C.

Fill the plastic cup with the boiled water, pour in a small amount of polymorph (yes, that’s right, because the main thing - do not overdo it) and wait. At first we’ll have stuck together bulbs

but then it turns into a sticky substance that can be rolled out and shaped.

Important: do not hurry to immediately take your polymorph out of the water and touch it: it saves the temperature of water for some time and you can easily burn yourself. Therefore mix this substance in the water and took by some disposable device - in my case it was a plastic knife.

Take out obtained bulbs with a knife and wait for a short time, then remove the polymorph. It is important to work quickly and efficiently, just to prepare all the tools, ‘cause polymorph, as mentioned, dries quickly.

Take 1-2 granules of the desired color and press it onto polymorph, stretching it and thus put the color over the entire surface. I inadvertently picked up as much as 4 red granules, so my foundation has turned deep red (well yeah say hello to Karkat). With less granules jaw turns into natural light pink color (close to red). 

When you get the color you need 

roll it so that you have enough amount  for the front end and the inner side. It is important to roll out a thin layer for foundation, otherwise it stick off from the teeth and will not hold as you want.

While the foundation is still lukewarm and shapeable, put it on your teeth (dry your teeth by wiping with your fingers or a towel) and form so that the lower part is in contact with the oral cavity and the front can reach the gums. Do not try to cover all the teeth, including the back - while wearing your mouth is partly opened, so that the front half will create the illusion of fangs everywhere you need them to be. Also you may have troubles If you attach your teeth on the back sides: you just won’t be able to close your mouth without damaging the oral cavity.

4)Yeah really looks as if chewing gum stuck to the teeth. With this “gum” you have to wait 1-2 minutes until the morph completely shapes.

5)When you remove it, you’ve got a cast:

As you can see in the photo and see by yourself, on the part of the cast, there is extra on top and inside - we cut them with scissors.

It turns out in neat basis.

6)Next step: sculpt our teeth!

Again we pour in a small amount of polymorph, pull and cut off small stripes of  a length that we need, with the addition to the part which will be mounted on the base. In the process, you can safely cut our morph forming sharpness canine and surface mounting, so it will not move. Part that will be attached should be thin enough, or it will easily fall off. Do not forget about the fact that morphs dries quickly. I attach a photo for comparison.

It turns  into a bunch of canines. On the basis of the right place take a few drops of glue and keep your finger on tooth in attachment place ~ 3-5 seconds.

Again we try on our jaw with the already dried teeth. It looks not so pretty for now, yep? We need a top piece that is attached to the teeth and would create realistic streaks above.

8) During an operation, do not throw away the remaining pieces from the base of the red morph (especially if you, like me, poured all at once :B). Throw them in hot water to the remaining part of the teeth and mix it all. If it’s not enough - take another pellet and mix up your solid color morphs.

Roll our morph into a small sausage that will cover our teeth from the upper side.

We mash this sausage on top and bottom by fingers, a little bit close to our teeth, and then manually adjust the shape of the device: making streaks in the gaps between the teeth as shown.

Wait until it dries out the top layer. Carefully remove it and get a separate part.

However, it will not keep as long as you do not secure it to the jaw! Remove the jaw, apply glue to the back side of the upper layer and then glue this side to our base.

So again, try it on, and if you like it ( personally I remade this five times until I got it perfect) leave it to dry for a short time.

Wait until they dry - and that’s the end of our work.

Your jaw will serve you long and productive, and most importantly - not so expensive!

Horns tutorial (Homestuck)

This is what we’ll be making, let’s get started, shall we?

1. Porexpan

2. Cutter

3. Thread

4. Headband

5. Papier-mâché (aka paper mache)

6. Hot glue gun + silicone rods

7. Acrylic paint (white, yellow and red)

8. Screws

9. Sandpaper

10. Drill

11. White glue

First things first, this tutorial has pictures of different horns because we hadn’t planned it beforehand (and we made a bunch of them at the same time).

1. You should draw a pattern on paper to decide the shape and size of your horns, also so you can try them on before actually making them to see if you like how they look. Afterwards draw this pattern onto the porexpan because this will help you understand the volume while carving.

2. We used porexpan as the base of the horns because it is really light and, believe us, you don’t want heavy stuff on your head. That is a key point if your character not only has horns, but wears glasses , fins, or some other accessory as it all adds up weight on top of your ears, which is really uncomfortable. That said, the next step is to carve the porexpan with the cutter carefuly following the pattern you’ve drawn on it.

Note: They usually have porexpan (which is some kind of…plastic cork?) at variety stores, but you may also find it in packages (it’s used to protect its contents), that’s to say: make sure you look into packages people have thrown away as you wouldn’t need to buy it then!

3. Once you have your desired shape, you can proceed to cover the horns with paper mache (you can use home-made paper mache, but the store one is way smoother). Once again, be aware of the weight, too much paper mache will make the horn heavier.

4. This step is optional if you like your horns rougher, but if you want them even you can use sandpaper to sand them. Might as well warn you that this process gets EXTREMELY long, but the results are nice.

5. Another optional step is to use thread to make the horns textured as you can see in the pictures. Be careful in your choice of thread as some threads are too shaggy, which makes it difficult to paint them later on. You can also get the textured feeling by doing a spiral motion with the silicone, but we wouldn’t recommend it because painting gets hard on a silicone surface. Back to the thread (quite literally), you can attach it to the horn with white glue or glue.

6. Now the step you’ve been waiting for: painting! We don’t have much to say on this one, but maybe the paint will be too transparent and you’ll need to put on many layers, so you may need to add white (because it’s more opaque). And that’s pretty much it. Oh, we almost forgot, you can attach the horns to the headband before painting them, but we prefer to finish them before that so we don’t stain it.

7. If your horns are small and light (such as Karkat’s or Terezi’s, or even Nepeta’s) you can use hair clips. If your horns are tall or heavier we recommend using black (duh, because the trolls hair is black) headbands. You can find the right place to put the horns on by trying on the headband with a mark on its center and playing around with the horns until you find their place. Afterwards you pierce both the headband and the horns with the drill to screw them, but we felt this wasn’t secure enough, so we put on some silicone.

Note 1: If you’re thinking of using hair clips, have in mind if your hair withstands them or not, since some people have really reaaally soft hair and hair-thingies fall down.

Note 2: On the picture of our Vantas’ horns the texturing method was silicone, also, we used  toilet paper + white glue instead of paper mache. Here comes a pic of the difference between textured and smooth.

8. Last one. Now we like to varnish them with latex so the paint won’t peel off.

And that’s it, hope it’s useful to you! C: Happy horning~

English isn’t our mother tongue , so if you didn’t understand something, feel free to drop an ask and we’ll do our best to explain it better c: Oh, and last thing, we said some obvious stuff, but it might come in handy anyway.

Spanish version

Hella Rad Homestuck Troll Shirt Tutorial!!

Hey nooksuckers,

So after reading some of the other tutorials out there, I realised something; who the fuck actually has the time and money to go and buy all those goddamn materials and fancy shit?

So, here’s how I make my troll shirts; professional quality (seriously everyone thinks I get this shit off WhatPumpkin), quick, easy, and with actual stuff you are likely to have in your house. 

Without futher ado, heres the scope:


(Some of the materials not displayed because I’m a weenie)

-Flat board of some kind: lid, cardboard, chopping board, you could use a live animal I don’t give a fuck whatever bro

-Cling wrap: This shit is important if you don’t want to look like a dweeb at the con

-A sheet of a4 paper with your chosen symbol printed on: To get it the right size, look at reference pictures and hold a piece of paper up to your body and draw in a mirror what you think is right. Then, print the symbol at the preferred size. Doesn’t take a genius.

-Sponge: You can use a dabby art sponge as shown, or a shitty-ass dishwashing sponge. ((IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE THE ONE YOU ACTUALLY USE THE CLEAN YOUR DISHES!! SOME OF THE PAINTS MAY BE TOXIC AND ALSO IT WILL LOOK LIKE YOU’RE WASHING THE DISHES IN TROLL BLOOD. It also waters down the paint and makes it smell like a wet dog. Don’t do it bro. )) Make sure it is fairly dense, however, with no big holes or anything.

-Small knife: Not sharp! Any thin-bladed knife will do, this ain’t murder

-Masking tape (although weak sticky tape should be fine)

-Glue stick (like that really weak-ass primary school shit is fine)

-Paint: Some art stores will display lil bottles of ‘fabric paint’. This is bullshit.

This is the stuff I used, it comes in all the right colours and is dirt cheap, like you can get a whole tube for $4 easily. As long as it says that it works on fabric, it’s fabric paint son and everyone else can go home.

-Shirt: Make sure it is the right style for your character! However, be aware the thinner fabrics are inadvisable; originally, this Meenah shirt was going to be a midriff top, but the material was too thin. Use some cotton, like those cheap $5 shirts at Target/Big W or whatever y'all have in America or whereever. Also, if you are a person with breasts, take the placement of the symbol into consideration, as it may appear different once you wear it. 

-Black permanent marker: If you do this well, you won’t need this.

-A good attitude and a variety of healthy snacks.

First things first, iron that shirt. You don’t have to do the whole thing, just make sure the place where the symbol is going is flat. Idiot.

Next, wrap cling wrap around that board. You go son.

Now put that board inside that crispy-ass shirt you just ironed, under where the symbol is going to be. Place the symbol on top of where you want it to go and scope the scene; is it in the right place?

Obviously. Now, you gotta make a stencil for your sweet arts to happen in!As above, use scissors to cut out that shape. If you’re a lucky mofo, you’ll have a sharp knife and a cutting board, but I don’t, so get off your high horse son and sit at the kiddie table with the rest of us.

Now, tape that stencil to the shirt with the masking tape. Make sure that the fabric is flat and so is the paper, and the area is completely over the board you put inside the shirt. Otherwise, you are stupid.

Now, because you were a good lil girl or boy or whatever, you sat at the kiddie table and used scissors. However, sometimes scissors overcut when doing fine corners, so here is your opportunity to fix your errors with tape.

If you are doing a symbol with holes in it i.e. Karkat, this is where the glue stick comes in. Use that sweet goop to stick down the circles or whatever so they stay in place when you paint. You can also use this stuff to glue down any annoying corners before you start painting. However, do not spread it on too thick! Pulling it off may crack or warp the design. 

Now then, spread some of the paint onto a plate or something, and collect a fairly thin layer on your sponge. At this stage, do not put too much on!!

Cover the whole design, not pushing too hard (otherwise it will bleed under the stencil). By the end, it’ll look something like this:

Looks real thin doesn’t it? Well sit the fuck down, it’s only thin because this is the first coat.

While you wait for this coat to dry, eat a healthy snack.

Hell yes. A funky orange. Or whatever that is. I don’t know. Could be a mandarin.

Anyway, now that coat’s done, do a second coat! You can go a little thicker, but still be careful with how much paint you put on. And, yes the smily face is compulsory.

Now, you need to wait for this coat to dry.


Now then. 

Two coats is the minimum amount for a troll shirt, and 8 is the maximum. Remember that the more coat your use, the better the colour and texture, but the more brittle the design i.e. that shits gonna crack like crazy and maybe even peel. 

I normally recommend four coats, however depending on the cosplay and the fabric type, you will have to decide for yourself. The thinner the fabric, the less coats you’ll need.

Once you are satisfied with your layering, use the thin knife to cut through any paint or glue sticking the shirt to the stencil, and slowly prise the stencil away.

Trying not to pull the fabric too much, remove the stencil altogether.

If there are parts of your result that are not thick enough, simply re-tape them and paint them again. If there are any places where the paint has bled under the stencil, use a black permanent marker to neaten it up; trust me, you can’t see it, so don’t fret.

From here, simply keep adding more paint as above, refining the edges with your marker, and using your knife to remove excess paper.

Now, wait for the paint to fully dry. Then, carefully remove the board from the shirt and dispose of the cling wrap.

For the best results, do not wash before use! The pattern is likely to crack in the wash, however after a quick iron the cracks are barely noticeable. When ironing, always place a sheet of paper over the design to prevent it from burning.

Congratulations! You have successfully made a troll shirt! Now go and explore your respiteblock in style. Bitch.

Please message me with any concerns! I actually worked this tutorial out of my own when I was bored, so if this get’s enough notes I’ll show y'all how to do horns!

Troll Teeth Tutorial WITHOUT DENTURE CREAM and Troll Teeth/Kids Teeth Reference Sheet

Today I will be showing you how to make lovely teeth for your troll (or buck-toothed kid) cosplay needs! Here, I made ones for my Meenah cosplay



-fake nails

-thermal fitting beads 

First off, scissors can be found around the house and if you dont have any you can use nail clippers or nail file. cut the nails to whatever size you choose, short like I have mine, or long fangs. You CAN fit them to your teeth, but I didn’t. 

Here is a troll/kid teeth refernce sheet

(idk wtf is up with Megido teeth, man, they aint normal. and I know some of the teeth repeat but I am not hussie so I cannot tell you why some do and some dont)

NEXT. Melt your fitting beads (buy here or here) in boiling water from a teapot or microwave them until the beads are transparent. and no longer white. Use a metal spoon to make all the melted beeds come together then use the spoon to pull the now clumped beads out of the hot water and pul it apart so you have only one half. (be quick) drop the other half in the hot water and run to a mirror.

dry off your teeth and start pushing the soft plastic onto your teeth to make a sort of mouth gaurd/retainer. 

After that drop it in cold water so it holds it’s form

NEXT take all your teeths made of fake nails and arrange them on the table in the order you want them on your teeth. Dip only THE FRONT of your retainer thing in the hot water and press the first tooth where you want it. Dip it on the COLD WATER to let it harder again. Then repeat these two steps for all the teeth. 

Once you put the last tooth in, dip the retainer thingy in the hot water again, dry off your teeth, and do a last check to make sure everything fits just right. Then, pull it out and drop it in cold water and let it harden. When it comes out, the teeth should be secure onto the retainer thingy. 

for individual fangs without doing the retainer, dry your teeth, put enough plastic onto the back of the fang so that you can push it around your entire canine tooth (back and front). drop it in cold water, let it harden, and it should fit back onto your tooth.


  • You can drink with these on but do not drink hot liquids and do not press against the teeth too much..
  • Do not attach teeth with super glue, hot glue, or more of the plasticy stuff (hot glue and plastic stuff falls off, super glue is toxic)
  • be patient, and calm. this may take a few tries.

That concludes this! I hope this works for many of you out there with sensitive teeth like mine from having braces or fillings or whatever. 

Good luck, may the 4/13 be with you~



Porrim Makeup Tutorial + Troll Teeth

people requested this a lot so here’s my first make up tutorial :>

so if you wondered how I do my makeup and my teeth here you go.


Because I’m getting a tons of request for this (and since i trolled the last skin tutorial I made HAH), I thought “why not make a quick srs tutorial this time while I’m at the process of painting a piece.

You probably would need to have at least basic knowledge of photoshop to understand what I wrote on there. Oh and basic understanding of lighting to know where your shadows would fall onto to make it look "realistic”. Also sorry for the crappy hand writing, it’s faster to write them down than switch to the text tool and type.

Well, there you go and I hope that helps! We’ll see if I’d manage to do a quick hair tutorial tomorrow while I paint on the hair. :)

Tutorial de cuernos (Homestuck)

Esto es lo que vamos a hacer, empecemos c:

1. Porexpan

2. Cúter

3. Hilo

4. Diadema

5. Papel maché

6. Pistola de silicona + barras de silicona

7. Pintura acrílica (blanca, amarilla y roja)

8. Tornillos

9. Papel de lija

10. Taladro

11. Cola blanca

Lo primero, este tutorial contiene fotos de diferentes cuernos porque no planeábamos hacerlo (e hicimos un montón al mismo tiempo)

1. Deberías dibujar un patrón en papel para decidir la forma y tamaño de tus cuernos, de manera que puedas probártelos antes de hacerlos para ver si quedan bien. A continuación dibuja el patrón en el porexpan porque te ayudará a entender el volumen mientras tallas.

2. Nosotras usamos porexpan como base de los cuernos porque es muy ligero y, créenos, no quieres llevar demasiado peso en la cabeza. Esto es clave si tu personaje no solamente tiene cuernos, sino gafas, agallas, o algún otro accesorio, ya que eso añade peso a tus orejas, cosa que resulta muy incómoda. Dicho esto, el siguiente paso es tallar el porexpan con el cúter siguiendo el patrón que hemos dibujado previamente.

Nota: Normalmente tienen porexpan (que es como una especie de… ¿corcho de plástico?) en los todo a cienes, pero es posible que lo encuentres en embalajes (se usa para proteger cosas) en la basura, o sea que ¡asegúrate de revisarla antes de comprar!

3. Cuando hayas conseguido la forma deseada, puedes proceder a cubrir los cuernos con papel maché (puedes usar papel maché casero, pero el de las tiendas de manualidades es más liso. El nuestro es de la marca Jovi). Una vez más, ten en cuenta el peso, demasiado papel maché hará que el cuerno pese más.

4. Este paso es opcional si te gustan los cuernos menos pulidos, pero si los quieres lisos puedes lijarlos con papel de lija. Deberíamos apuntar que este proceso es EXTREMADAMENTE largo, pero el resultado es bonito.

5. Otro paso opcional es usar hilo para hacer que los cuernos tengan más textura (como puedes ver en las fotos). Procura escoger un hilo que no sea muy peludo porque es más difícil de pintar. También puedes conseguir el efecto de textura haciendo un espiral de silicona alrededor del cuerno, cosa que no recomendamos porque pintar sobre silicona es un peñazo y no se aguanta. Uy, que perdemos el hilo (jejeje), para pegar el hilo puedes usar cola blanca o pegamento.

6. Y por fin llega el paso esperado: ¡pintar! No tenemos mucho que decir sobre esto, pero quizás podemos anotar que puede que la pintura sea demasiado transparente y tengas que hacer varias capas o añadir blanco (es más opaco) cuando mezcles los colores. Y eso viene a ser todo. Oh, casi lo olvidamos, puedes montar los cuernos en la diadema antes de pintarlos, pero nosotras preferimos acabarlos primero para no manchar la diadema.

7. Si tus cuernos son pequeños y ligeros (como los de Karkat, Terezi o Nepeta) puedes usar clips de pelo. Si tus cuernos son altos o más pesados recomendamos usar diadema negra (porque el pelo de los trolls es negro, se entiende). Para saber dónde colocar los cuernos ponte la diadema, marcando su centro, y juega un rato con ellos hasta que encuentres el sitio. Seguidamente, agujerea los cuernos y la diadema con el taladro para atornillarlos. Nosotras pensamos que no aguantaría todo lo que debería por lo que añadimos silicona.

Nota 1: Si vas a usar clips de pelo, ten en cuenta si tu pelo es fino o no, puesto que hay gente que lo tiene muy liso y los accesorios de pelo le resbalan.

Nota 2: En la foto de nuestros vantásticos cuernos la textura está hecha con silicona, además la base es de papel higiénico + cola blanca en lugar de papel maché. En la siguiente foto puedes ver la diferencia entre un cuerno texturado y uno liso.

8. Y por último, deberías barnizar tus cuernos para que la pintura no se pele. Nosotras lo hacemos con látex.

Y eso es todo, esperamos que te haya sido útil y feliz experiencia haciendo cuernos~

Si tienes alguna duda, ¡no dudes en preguntar! c: Oh, una última cosa, hemos dicho algunas cosas muy obvias en este tutorial, pero hemos pensado que podrían ser de utilidad de todas formas.

Versión en inglés


OMG guys I finally got off my ass and did a video tutorial! Since I get asked more than anything else how I make my teeth look sharp and pointy for Terezi Pyrope or Soul Eater cosplay, I figured I would show you in a video >:D

(tl;dw version: paint triangles on ur teeth with Ben Nye tooth black!)