troll cosplay help


Let me tell you about Smooth Finish.

See that lil bin right there? That’s it. And let me tell you how it will improve your life.

Ok so everyone know how lovely and light ModelMagic is for making horns, right? And everyone also knows how it loves to crack in the drying process. Well here is your solution. This stuff is like a super light crack filler meant for foam. It dries over night, doesn’t crack, sands baby smooth very quick and is paintable with no priming.

It looks like this when you open it (minus the fingerprints of course)

Then you just spread it in the cracks of your horns, gobbing up the stuff a little bit so you make sure it is filled, you can sand it when its dry. And its is a miracle worker. My Karkat and Kanaya horns were the first I had ever made and they were a mess. Cracked literally right to the core.

I just filled up the holes and let it dry. Here’s what my Karkat ones look like after being cracked, filled, then sanded.

See how wide those cracks are? Well let me tell you, the surface is so smooth now. Proof? My Kanaya horns were cracked even wider and deeper and look how nice they are now.

I even used it to fill the gap between the horn and the headband to make it look like they were properly growing out of my head.

This stuff saved me over 15 dollars by being able to fix up these horns instead of pitching them and making new ones, plus i smoothed out cosmetic dents and scratches in two other pairs. I have fixed 4 sets of horns with this stuff and it has hardly made a dent in the supply. The bin says it can cover a 12 foot by 24 foot area with one coat. Intense.

So yes, the stuff is 5 dollars at Walmart. Its made by FloraCraft, which is a really cool company thats based in the USA so thats a plus. I hope this has been really helpful to all you cosplayers out there!! Happy crafting!!


Body Paint 101 Panel, as given at SacAnime Winter 2016

Body paint has increasingly become an integral part of the cosplay scene, but with the many types of paint on the market, how does a cosplayer choose? And what does “seal your paint” actually mean? This panel will give an overview of the most common types of body paint, application methods, and sealing methods, along with addressing typical problems and pitfalls.

This is just the bare bones of the panel, as many of the examples were elaborated on in-person. It is not meant to be exhaustive or definitive, and is just meant for general advice and suggestion purposes only. If anyone has feedback they would like to give, feel free to do so. That said, I hope that people find this information useful.

I apologize for the photo layout here being a bit janky. I had an odd number of slides in the beginning and no real way to combine them into something readable, so the breakdown by twos splits up the info and pro/con slides for each type of paint. :| Sorry

I was very close to putting alcohol-activated paint in this panel, but I decided that I wouldn’t have time to cover it in an hour-long panel and it’s a little more advanced. (It comes in liquid form that can be airbrushed on or solid/cake form, and is activated by a special alcohol-based activator, and removed with a special alcohol-based remover. Cake form can be somewhat translucent. It is fully waterproof. Don’t use it near mucous membranes. The alcohol can be a bit harsh and drying. There’s the basics, for those curious.) 

I feel like these three types are more likely to be used by the average beginner. I also didn’t cover airbrushing (and there are a lot of types of paint that can be airbrushed, depending on the formula) because again, this is a 101 panel and that’s more advanced, though I do make mention of it. Maybe someday I’ll own an airbrush and be able to do an Airburshing Body Paint panel. ;]

Note on PAX: I know a lot of people swear by it, but the safety concerns should not be overlooked. DO NOT USE. It is not safe for use on skin.

I’m also personally biased against Snazaroo because it’s a lower quality of paint and tends to crack and flake easier than other types, but it’s a popular one so I included it because a lot of people use it and need to have the correct application/sealing information for it.

Two more general notes that didn’t make it into the Powerpoint:
Shave before doing this. Light body hair might be okay with something like water-activated paint, but shave just in case. You want the paint to stick to your skin, not hair.
For some reason, Wolfe brand paints are not compatible with Ben Nye brand products, such as Final Seal. They will turn pink. Keep these separate.

Here is a link to a pdf of the presentation. You may download for personal use, but please do not alter the presentation, repost without permission, or do any sort of other unauthorized use. (If you have a question about how you can use this presentation, please send me a message with your question and we can work it out. I promise I’m not scary. ;]) Feel free to reblog this post as much as you want, though. I do these panels and post them because I want the information to be shared.

I hope someone finds this helpful! :]

SU Gem & Homestuck Troll Cosplayers!

(and any other cosplays that require unnatural skin tones and lots of body paint for that matter)

I’m considering cosplaying Blue Pearl soon so started looking up the items I will need, and came across this really useful find on amazon uk!

These morphsuits/zentai suits/bodysocks come in a huge range of colours, and they offer a made-to-measure option at no extra cost! Just £23.49 with free UK delivery, which is a pretty reasonable price. This colour is absolutely perfect for Blue Pearl, and the goose grey looks like it would work well for troll cosplay! Lots of the colours look suitable for many of the gems.

With a little simple sewing I’m sure the head could be easily removed, then all you’d have to do is paint your face, and you have yourself a simple, practically mess-free cosplay! (though using the bathroom at a con might be a challenge…)

If I decide to go ahead and purchase this suit I’ll be sure to update this post with a review!

Maddi's Homestuck Makeup Tutorial

WELL, there’s this long process that goes into how I do make-up, but it works really well ! It doesn’t smudge and does not require to be set with powder! AT. ALL. (I still like to dust on some NYX HD Studio Finishing Powder because it gives it a softer finish) It doesn’t come off on clothes EITHER. Only minor touch ups throughout the day, but otherwise, it’s a technique I came up with that’s damn near flawless.

So, product wise, I use the Mehron Star Blend Cake Makeup in Monster Gray, and the Paradise Cake Makeup (it’s part of Mehron) in White 

They look like this

With my makeup I use 2 special tricks that (I’d LIKE to say) I invented.

1.Barrier Spray

2.Hairspray + Water

Before applying the grey, I spray my face using Mehron’s Barrier Spray (BLESS UP, THIS STUFF IS AMAZING, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND)

What barrier spray does is create a barrier between your skin and the makeup. It also acts as an antiperspirant so you don’t sweat all your makeup off and it comes in handy when this makeup is activated by water. 

Next, I apply a makeup primer (I just use the NYX Photo-Loving Primer for my face and the Urban Decay Primer Potion for my eyes)

THEN for applying the grey (here’s where my second trick comes into play) 

I add water to the cap of the Monster grey makeup (very minimal amount of water)

Then I spray hairspray into the cap like so. BUT when adding the hairspray, if you add too much, it can result in your makeup cracking. You need the exact same amount of water as you do hairspray; it may take some practice.

And it’ll look a little something like this (picture below) 

Then you take a brush and dip it in the hairspray/water mix and swirl it in the white. (REMEMBER: A little goes a long way! Less is more!)

Then swirl it in the monster gray

Then apply!

MAKE SURE that when you’re applying, that you apply in the same direction throughout because it’ll streak and stay streaked if you don’t!

After you coat the rest of your hand ^, add contours and highlights (Like I did in the picture above, very subtle on the hand. I use the Naked Basics palette for my contours and highlights; Venus for a shimmery pearl highlight, and Crave for the contours)

Then decorate and add the extra detail (This would be for Feferi or any other Pisces character)

And here would be the finished product (If I did the other half of my face and put on my wig)

(and without the spots if you don’t usually apply the spots)

Thank you and I hope you can use my technique in the future! It does take some practice, but the results are GREAT. 

And all these photos are unedited and in shitty lighting, so imagine how it’ll look walking around a convention.

I’ll post a video tutorial on how I do my usually Feferi Makeup in the future since I get a lot of compliments on it at conventions





  1. take a lipbrush(or your fingers) and rub the gooey stuff on your lips!
  2. take the colour of choice on a eyeshadow brush(or again your fingers) and pat it on! NOTE*IT mayyy take a couple of coats but it shouldnt take so long
  3. Take a damp tissue and clean up the edges

IT ALSO WORKS FOR EYES! Just repeat the steps above and your eyeshadow will not fade nor crease! And removal it just wipe it away!(it will be a bit harder on eyes but not too much!)


ignore my crappy phone!


Good luck dolls!~







A couple of people have wanted a horn tutorial since the shirt one I did and while I’m not going to be doing one until I’m making horns for myself I did want to give everyone advice I wish I got.
Don’t use Mod Podge as a finish. Ever. For anything. Almost every horn tutorial I have ever seen uses Mod Podge as a clear coat at the end. Don’t do that. The cans of clear coat I have on the right were $5.99 and have lasted me much longer than mod podge ever has. The matte coat has gone through five or so sets of horns and still feels pretty full. It’s also easier to apply because it’s a spray. Here’s why you shouldn’t use Mod Podge as a clear coat.
It’s a glue. Mod Podge is glue. When it heats up or gets wet, it gets sticky and will be ruined if it touches anything. It can also bubble but that’s happened to me less. The mark on the horn above is what happened when a pair of horns pressed against the netting on a suit case during travel. I’ve had horns stick together just because they were touching each other too long even without it being warm, they weren’t pressed either just touching. The bottom line is that mod podge gets sticky and is too pricey to be used for a seal. I only use it for paper mache and I’m probably not even going to keep using it for that. It also photographs too glossily in my opinion, but if you want high gloss horns then thats your deal, in my experience it just makes them hard to photograph. I’d chalk the stickiness up to bad method if it hadn’t happened to everything mod podge was on no matter how I applied it and if they didn’t stick to each other regardless of the surface feeling sticky to the touch.

Another tip? Use like 70 cent craft paint to prime surfaces. Like the AC Moore My Studio crap? I use it as a primer because it dries with a chalky texture, making it easily sanded and great at absorbing the actual paint without looking weird.

anonymous asked:

This was the first time I bought makeup for the trolls and the kind I bought is very dark. Its water based and quite strong. Do you know of a way to make it lighter? (Also, your cosplays are amazing!)

Most waterbased makeup except for Snazaroo only comes in a very dark grey, so to lighten it up you’ll need to add white!  We use Mehron Paradise AQ for faces, but the same methodology can be applied to any kind of waterbased makeup.  To mix up our light grey, we do the following:

  1. Take a whole container of white and ¼th a container of storm grey.  Using a knife, scrape the makeup out of the container, crumble it into relatively fine chunks, and put it in a tupperware.  This seems like a strange ratio, but the grey mehron overpowers the white very easily.  Your ratio may vary depending on your brand - be sure to test it out.
  2. As an optional step, scrape a very small amount of red or orange and add it to your makeup.  This is not necessary, but we find that it helps make the makeup slightly less blue-tinted.
  3. Add 1-2 empty containers of water.
  4. Using a chopstick, finish crushing your powder and mix it into the water until all of the paint is combined into a single color and you’re left with a creamy consistency.  This will take a while.
  5. Pour the makeup back into the makeup container.  Because of the water addition, it won’t all fit!  As the makeup dries and the water evaporates, you can pour more makeup from the tupperware on top, or instead try putting it into a second container if you have a spare.
  6. Allow to dry for around a week, possibly for two if you’re in a humid or cold area.  Placing the makeup near a vent helps speed the process.
How does Rainbow Ash do her makeup for Nepeta?

First of all: I have to say that I don’t like when people make the W shape in their mouth cosplaying Leijons. That mouth-shape is an expression line, not because of the mouth but because of expression, and you don’t have to put a central, vertical line because it looks like a harelip. Leijons are not half-cat, they may act like a cat but they’re not half cat as the seadwellers are half-fish. You have to work for a good expression.

So, let’s start.
All you need is: a light grey body paint, green eyeshadow, mascara, eyeliner. (I didn’t have a black-lipstick. Eyeliner is good too, but it’s better to  use a lipstick because is more confortable and you can lick your lips.)

I like Snazaroo the most, you have to use a brush or a sponge. If it needs, after you cover all your face with paint, dry it with a hairdryer and put more paint (sometimes, you can see ugly skin-toned lines. Just cover it again). If you can, don’t wear a shirt when you’re soing makeup.

Remember that trolls have blood on different colours. So, they’ll have that colour, too, in their skin. my headcanon about Nepeta is with freckles, so it will look good if you put green under it. And under her eyes too, she got shadows. (sorry for the terrible photo)

In the end, clear your eyelashes, give a cat eye shape with eyeliner, and define your lips. If you have black lipstick use it after. And freckles. I love freckles. Remember to make your eyebrows black.

In the end, pur your shirt and your wig on. And try to think like Nepeta, it will be the best thing to do :33

Hope you liked it!

Okay, so umm, a while back I made these horns for my Karkat costume. I know they are pretty bad, the clay I used was some I had gotten as a present and it was pretty bad quality, no matter what it ended up with a crease in the final product, but I was broke and couldn’t afford to buy better quality clay for the horns. It was also the first time I’ve used clay for horns, I had previously used paper mache, which wasn’t working for these. Also my first time paint multi-toned horns.

Since these horns I’ve made several other horns with better clay, Sollux, Eridan, Nepeta and Gamzee, and they’ve turned out better (no pictures sice they’ve been packed for a move of rooms) but I never got around to remaking these. So what I want to ask is since I have no more clay and am once again broke, are these horns salvageable for a cosplay I’m doing in a few weeks, namely a zombie version of Kankri for a zombie march? I’ll of course be sanding these down to hopefully make the creases and a few bumps in the clay less noticeable and repainting them with cleaner lines and more accurate colours. Or should I just burn these to oblivion and somehow try to find the money to remake these?