♫ Cause we’re not just a boy band made up of four Joshes, we’re also a team of nationally recognised mental health professionals. Trained in cognitive behavioural therapy with specialties in personality and sleep disorders ♫
hi! i was wondering if you could recommend some books about how to have a great relationship with your dog. i'm planning on getting my own dog soon this year and am trying to research and get as much information as i can. thanks so much, i really appreciate your honest and kind replies.
Hey, and congrats on your new dog!
Bonding with your dog is about being clear, consistent, and fair. It’s hard work to be a good dog, and it’s up to you to break it down into small, clear steps (and to make it worthwhile to your dog)! Your relationship with your dog will improve as your dog understands what you want from him.
Some highly-recommended books for making dog training a fun and positive experience are:
There are also TONS of articles that come up on Google when you search “how to bond with my new dog”. Dogblr is a good place for information, but try not to take anything at face value. There are many (rather loudly-voiced) conflicting opinions on dogblr.
Red flags in books to avoid (or at the very least, to take with a grain of salt):
Don’t forget that new science involving dog training and behaviour is constantly being discovered. Twenty years ago, dominance theory was the end-all be-all of dog training. People are going to disagree with ANY method you end up using to bond with your dog. The important thing to remember is that this is YOUR dog, and as long as you’re being clear, consistent, and fair, you do you.
Also, if you get a puppy, your dog’s teenage years will turn him into a butthole. Don’t lose hope and try not to resent your dog. It won’t last forever, and these are things that happen.
As promised. Not as short or snappy as the first one.
His name is Mantra, and the first thing he says is that he didn’t invent them.
He’s very insistent on that point.
The second thing he says is that his lessons are freely given. He owes a debt, apparently, to the one who taught him. Passing the knowledge on is how he pays it back. He’s not got many students - just two at the moment - but he says that’s enough.
“Making a mantra is a bit like Pavlovian conditioning for the universe,” he jokes. “And a bit like being one of Them. You pick something that resonates with you. An association, or a metaphor, or something. You make it a part of you. And you get back what you put in.”
You pay up-front, he says. Accept limits on your behaviour. Train yourself to link two things so hard that belief becomes reality. He uses “hope in my hands” as an example and says it’s not his. You’d start off small. Never write anything that isn’t hopeful or positive. Never do anything with your hands that you associate with hopelessness or cynicism. Use them for things that bring hope; build it, until the world accepts the line as truth. If it doesn’t fit you, it won’t work. If you can’t hold to it, it’ll shatter. If the lines don’t work with each other, it’ll tear itself apart.
When it starts to hurt to think about breaking your mantra, you’re ready to use it.
“This seems slow,” I say to him one day. “Isn’t there a quicker way?” He flinches.
“There’s a fast way and a right way,” he tells me. “You want to pick the right way. Trust me.”
I haven’t made one of my own yet, and I’m not writing down any ideas until I’m sure, but here’s his:
Freedom in water, Courage in earth, Strength in sunlight.
They do have drawbacks. He tells us how he feels trapped and stifled unless he goes swimming every day, how he’s scared of heights now and vulnerable in the dark. When I ask why he picked something so limiting, he just shrugs.
“I did it the fast way,” he says. “I had to work with what I had, and I didn’t have much. Trees and blood, mostly. I chose trees.” He gives his sister a guilty look - she’s two years older, and doesn’t dabble in mantras herself, but she’s always there when he teaches.
The last thing he says - and fair’s fair, he tells you before you try to choose your lines and makes you think about it for a day or a week or a month before giving you any more lessons - is that by using a mantra, you make an Enemy. He doesn’t say much about it, but he lets a few things slip - and They certainly know which of Them he means. Here’s what I’ve put together or traded for.
- The Enemy lives deep, deep Underhill and doesn’t come out much. It can’t take people Away anymore - not because that power was won or tricked or stolen from it, but because it was taken, by force and by fire.
- It hates mantra-users with a passion that’s beyond reason even by Their standards, and hates Mantra himself even more than that.
- It has really horrific burns all down one side of it - which side varies - and They call it the Burned One like they call him Little Tree Boy. Its eye on the burned side is not the original. It’s grey, and human, and sometimes it cries all on its own.
That much along with campus rumour is for me to put a few pieces together and draw conclusions, but I’m not going to write them down. Mantra’s a nice guy, and if I’m right it would be cruel to ask him.
I’m pretty sure They can tell if you’re learning from him. Maybe like recognises like. He told me to think, long and hard, about whether I want to go forward with it - I can still turn back from where I am now. I’m meant to give him an answer by tonight.
Sometimes the best tricks your pets learn are the ones you didn’t set out to teach them.
Take my cats, for example. I used treats to train them to come when their names were called, and it worked fairly well; Freyja, the younger one, comes running at top speed, while Thor, the older, takes his time, but he does show up. Usually.
The fun part is that Freyja realised that treats would only be forthcoming when both cats are present, so if I call them and Thor’s being stubborn, she’ll help me look for him - and honestly, she’s better at searching for him than I am.
(Thor always looks so offended when Freyja leads me to his hiding spot, too.)
Training birds, or any animal for that matter, can be done by essentially anyone who’s willing to put in the time but there’s a few things that many people tend to overlook. The difference between a trusting, responsive bird and one who may learn slowly or only preform under certain circumstances lies in these fine details.
Motivation is how much the bird desires to work for you, whether you use a primary motivator (food) or a secondary motivator (stimulation) your bird has to be motivated to work for it! This typically means reducing those motivators from their every day lives and using them solely for training.
If you’re using physical touch or a toy as a motivator this means letting the bird play with the toy less so they look forwards to playing with it during training.
For food, it can be a little more complicated depending on how you do it.
The preferred method of food reward if to just alter the feeding schedule, do training first and feed meals afterwards, I wouldn’t be interested in working for cake if I just had a three course meal, would you? I prefer this method because it’s safer, you don’t risk lowering their body weight or making them ill. The most common method used is weight management, reducing up to 5% of the bird’s regular meal and filling that 5% with treats during training. Using the weight management method requires careful attention paid to their weight through weighing them daily and recording their weights, ensuring the weigh does not drop below 5% it’s original weight and definitely no lower than 10% as that risks serious health issues. I don’t like this method because of these risks but for some birds, they will just continually eat and gain weight which puts them at risk of other health issues (like fatty liver disease) at which point that method becomes necessary to allow the bird to stay at a healthy weight and train effectively.
Behaviour and Communication
Watching your bird’s body language and how you are able to communicate with the bird is the only way you’ll be able to teach a concept, if neither of you know what the other is saying you will get nowhere!
If your bird is starting to play more than it wants to train, is looking around, chewing the perch, and overall seeming disinterested, that’s you bird telling you that they don’t want to do this anymore and it’s time to end the session before they get grumpy. If you’re trying to teach a trick that involved being in close proximity to your bird and they’re starting to nibble your hands or show defensive behaviours, that’s them telling you that they aren’t ready to move that far yet and you need to back up and slow down the process until they’re ready for you to get that close. Pushing a bird past these obvious lines of communication will more than likely result with them flying away or just biting you.
Along with you understanding how to read the bird the bird needs to understand how to read you. How do you accomplish this? Start off with basic concepts like target training and clicker recognition, these simple things allow the bird to understand how to do something for a reward, they start to acknowledge your body language and how it’s directing them to preform and action and will help them know when they’ve done something right as well as how that progresses in to a larger concept.
A consistent bridging device is the best way to communicate a correct behaviour to your bird. A bridging device is a word or sound that can be repeated consistently and is always followed by some form of positive reinforcer (food, stimulation, etc.). Consistency is important, if you make a different sound every time the bird does something right they will struggle to understand what marks the correct behaviour. A bridging device must sound at the exact moment the bird did the correct behaviour, this helps the bird pinpoint exactly what they did correctly and increases the odds of them repeating that behaviour. If you’re making a different sound every time they will not know what your bridging device is and won’t think they’ve done something right until they’ve got the treat in their mouths, this can mean that them standing around or reaching for the treat (whatever they were doing when being rewarded) is the behaviour they will believe they did correctly and is the behaviour they will repeat.
Rewards and Jackpots
This is by far one of the most helpful things when training a bird, if a bird doesn’t like what they’re being given they won’t work for it, if they have the same thing every day they’ll get bored of it, a key to a good reward is variety in substance and quantity.
Establish what your bird loves best, many birds change their favourite foods around frequently so it’s important to note when they start to lose motivation for the reward you are using and change it up. Good food reinforcers include hulled sunflower seeds, millet, banana chips, oat groats, anything that can be consumed rapidly so they don’t forget what they just did to earn the food, a good stimulative reinforcer may be a favourite toy, sounds, or physical touch.
Simple enough, but what’s a jackpot? A jackpot is something you reward the bird with when they’ve made a larger step in the right direction, anything that’s better than what you’re already feeding them (this can mean more of the same treat or just a better treat in general). A jackpot helps the bird understand that what they just did was better than what they were doing before and increases the odds of them repeating that behaviour to earn the jackpot again. An example of this would be: If I’m teaching a bird to step up and they’re just leaning over my hand, all I’m rewarding with is millet then suddenly they put a foot on my hand I’m going to reward with something better, like sunflower seeds, the bird will want more of those sunflower seeds and start to put their foot on my hand more frequently to earn them.
Session Length, Session Frequency and Ending the Session
Birds all have different attention spans, it’s important to watch their body language for signs of boredom and lack of interest. If you push a bird past their reasonable limit they will lose interest in training all together and may learn to hate training! The average training session should not go any longer than 15 minutes, when just starting out many birds will only be motivated long enough to work for 5 minutes.
The more sessions you have the faster the bird will understand this concept, this is true but there’s also a risk of overdoing it and stretching the bird’s attention span too far causing them to regress. According to the various CPBT-KA’s (certified professional bird trainers, knowledge assessed) the best number of sessions to have for one concept in one day is 2, one in the morning and one in the evening. Some birds are equipped to handle three sessions, some can only handle one, you have to evaluate your bird and determine what works best for them.
How you end the session is important, you always have to end on a positive note so the bird looks forwards to coming back the next day. If you end with the bird tired, overworked, frustrated and confused, they won’t want to work with you and will refuse any attempts by you to get them to participate. Have the bird enjoy the session and end it as soon as you see them getting bored.
Positive and Negative Reinforcement
The two most common methods that work best with birds are positive reinforcement and negative punishment (not to be mistaken with negative reinforcement and positive punishment ). Positive reinforcement is the action of encouraging repetition of a behaviour through some form of reward, negative punishment is discouraging the repetition of a behaviour by removing something positive from the environment.
An example of positive reinforcement: The bird lifts it’s foot on to my hand, I reward it with food, the bird wants to earn more of that food so it will look to repeat the behaviour of putting it’s foot on my hand
An example of negative punishment: The bird starts to nibble at my hands instead of stepping up, I slowly move my hands away and pause, removing the opportunity to earn the desired reward. The bird doesn’t want the opportunity to earn a reward taken away, the bird will reduce repetition of nibbling on my hands in order to continue earning treats.
Negative punishment is not the same as positive punishment, we are not harming the bird in any way or initiating a negative response from them. Positive punishment has been linked to numerous behaviour problems including feather destruction, screaming and aggression. Birds can not correlate an action with positive punishment and understand that their action caused the punishment, positive punishment causes regression and emotional harm to the bird. Do not use positive punishment on a bird.
How quickly you pace sessions is determined by the bird, when teaching a concept you have to break it down in to steps so it is easily understood. These small steps are extremely significant, birds who learn behaviours by jumping right to the end behaviours commonly forget what they learn and the entire concept must be relearned from scratch. When taught through a variety of smaller steps a bird may forget different steps and only have to be retaught a few of those last steps to accomplish the end behaviour, the constant repetition displayed through smaller steps also solidifies the concept in their brain and makes it harder to forget.
How many steps you need is dependant on your bird, if you make too many steps and the bird is jumping ahead of you the bird may become frustrated and confused, it’s your job to keep up with the bird’s pace. If you have too little steps and the bird is stuck it’s your job to break it down in to smaller steps so the bird can accomplish the end goal.
It’s long, I know, but incorporating all of the things listed above can drastically improve not only the bird’s ability to learn and responsiveness but also the bond and communications you are able to have with your parrot. It might seem like a lot at first but it’s really worth it to see just how excited they can be to work with you, training has become my girls’ favourite part of the day and it’s obvious to me just how much more they enjoy my interaction after working to connect, communicate and bond with them through training.
Hello, just wanting a quick For-Dummies answer here. I've read some of the posts on your blog enough to know ABA is bad and torture etc. but we had a speaker who was an ABA (which made me double take when I heard), the thing is he just talked about stuff they do such as teaching kids to substitute odd behaviours with better ones, e.g. kids who love "nappy-content painting" are taught to use playdo or use prompt cards to get baths, and things like that, I didn't really understand why it's bad?
Hi anon! I’ll do my best.
ABA is a scientific method:
the first step in ABA is the observation of the individual and their response to their environment in order to identify unwanted “target behaviours”
the second step is the systematic use of behaviourism-based techniques (aversives, rewards, operant conditioning) in order to eliminate unwanted “target behaviours” and encourage wanted behaviours
ABA as a “treatment” for Autism:
the basis of ABA is behaviourism and the medical model of disability, aka the deficit/illness/”broken baby” model
ABA’s main focus is on the normalization of behaviour (ie. extinguishing stimming, table readiness, “quiet hands”, eye contact) rather than on adaptive learning or accommodation
and the end goal of ABA is often for autistic children to be “indistinguishable from their [non-autistic] peers”
falling in line with those values, ABA principles push for neuro-normative methods of expression, like talking, even when alternative or neuro-atypical methods of expression, like AAC, would be better for the autistic in question
in ABA, consistent positive reinforcers/rewards and aversives/punishments are used to enforce behaviour— reinforcers being withheld until the wanted behaviour is performed, aversives being used when an unwanted behaviour is performed
common reinforcers include edible treats (gummy bears, chips, cereal); praise and verbal or physical affection; tokens that can be exchanged for “privileges”; stickers or stamps (often on a behaviour chart); a piece of lego or of a puzzle (aka a component to something the autistic wishes to play or complete); access to a favourite toy or beloved object; break time or a moment of rest from the “therapy”; access to the autistic’s special interest; time spent engaged in a “preferred activity” (aka something fun, like going to the park or watching a DVD)
an increasingly popular method of reinforcement in the ABA/compliance training world is the use of a clicker (a training device for animals that make a loud sharp “click” sound to indicate that the wanted action has been performed and that a treat or reward is forthcoming)
common aversives include the removal of tokens, stamps, stickers, or desired play components (lego, puzzle pieces); the confiscation of favorite toys or beloved objects; the withholding of snacks, water breaks, or recess/break from the therapy; the prevention of engagement in the autistic’s special interest or preferred activities; the use of “taste aversives”, such as pickle juice, vinegar, hot sauce, wasabi, or any other “effective” edible substance (the taste aversive is applied to the autistic’s mouth through the use of a spray bottle, or a q-tip, cotton ball, or pacifier soaked in the substance of choice); the use of tactile aversives (some examples are styrofoam, glue, bar or liquid soap, a piece of carpeting or upholstery fabric, sandpaper, or whatever incites tactile defensiveness or distress in the autistic); and the withholding of praise and/or physical or verbal affection
in DTT (Discrete Trial Training, which is considered a softer, kinder version of ABA) the therapist or practitioner will not look at, engage with, or respond to the autistic unless they perform the wanted behaviour, and any unwanted behaviours are ignored in the same way, or met with “passive resistance” from the therapist
ABA as a treatment for autism focuses in part (and often a large part) on compliance training— for a truly horrific example of compliance training, see here (warning for massive ableism, dehumanization of an autistic adult, infantilization of an autistic adult, the demonstration of compliance training/ABA on an autistic person)
What you describe in your post:
does not sound or look or smell like ABA, so I’m going to go ahead and say it’s not ABA
so while the speaker may have truly been an ABA therapist that follows ABA principles, they either didn’t give a very good explanation of ABA or they intentionally left a lot out to make it sound friendly and great
in the case of your “nappy painting” example, that is a clever use of sensory tools/providing a good sensory diet for the autistic person; and/or a commendable application of AAC in order to provide a more effective method of communication for the autistic person and reduce their frustration
but neither of those things are ABA
I’m not sure how it happened, but somehow any attempt at all to teach an autistic child anything became known as “ABA”— this really shouldn’t be the case, since ABA is a distinct scientific method, not just any kind of therapy, and especially not just parenting
the calling-everything-ABA thing may have arisen out of the fact that, in the USA, ABA is the only therapy that insurance companies will cover for autistic children, so a lot of not-ABA therapy gets called ABA therapy so it can be covered
but seriously, what you describe is not ABA, but it is exactly what the parents of autistic kids should be doing— providing alternative communication methods, putting a good sensory diet in place, substituting unsafe sources of sensory input seeking for safer and more effective sensory input
aka, parenting their children in a way that understands and accommodates their individual sensory seeking and communication needs
ABA is a distinct scientific method that arose out of the behaviourism movement and the medical model of disability; ABA employs the systematic use of operant conditioning, positive reinforcers, and aversives; and ABA is largely focused on behaviour normalization and “indistinguishability from peers”
autistic children may benefit from some occupational therapy to help with sensory integration, or speech therapy, or play-based therapy to foster development at their own pace, but all of those things should be the frosting (or smaller part) of their life, and the main part of their life, the cake, should be composed of the same teaching, play, mentoring, and time together that non-disabled children receive from their parents
and ultimately, in order to parent your autistic child well- to teach them to use AAC, or to provide sensory input catered to their brain’s needs, or to grow them up into healthy, self-confident autistic people- ABA is completely unnecessary, and often even detrimental to those goals
That ended up being longer than I intended, but honestly, this is the best I can do while still doing justice to the topic. I hope it helps.
Oh man I'm really glad I found this blog. I've been meaning to find somewhere to learn more about dog behavior and training to prepare to own my own pup in the future (we're talking a good maybe 3-4 years before I get my own besides my two family dogs/when I move out to properly care for my own) and I wanted to be somewhat more knowledgable in caring more for our canine friends. But I do have one question. Do you know any good feline blogs that deal with feline behavior and such? o:
I’m really glad you’re enjoying my blog and researching for your future pup.
Unfortunately, I don’t know any blogs for cat care or behaviour. I could try digging up resources for you if you’re looking for something in particular like body language, aggression, or training? In general, training and behaviour modification principles are the same between all species. What motivates the animal, offered behaviours, and what training techniques can be applied are what change between species. (For example, cats are extremely difficult to lure and don’t respond to body pressure like dogs; so shaping and capturing are mandatory.)
Does anyone have any suggestions on good cat behaviour blogs?
Often you find that you need to go back and fix errors that happen in your dog’s training. There is nothing wrong with this - training is a learning experience. The fact that you are finding even more ways to improve your training just shows that you are growing as a trainer. Be humbled by your mistakes, but understand that even the top trainers make them.
I love this quote from Nando Brown (a favourite trainer of mine): “I’m learning to train animals. I started years ago, but I still need more practice. If you think you don’t, you’re probably crap at it.”
Here I’ve talked about a few of the bigger mistakes I’ve made in training, how I troubleshooted and then overcame them.
One Cue for Multiple Behaviours
Recently I realised I had made a big mistake with something very simple in Maya’s training. I have been using the cue ‘leave it’ in many different situations: giving up her tug during play (and then rewarding with the tug), waiting to be released before eating her dinner, and for leaving my food alone.
Her behaviour is reflecting this confusing cue - dogs are terrible at generalising. If I tell her ‘leave it’ when she is eying up my food, she looks at me as if she expects a release cue. Because I had been telling her ‘leave it’ before her meals, she seemed to be asking why this situation is any different. The thing about smart dogs is that they’ll tell you when you’re wrong…
SO, we’ve stripped back and have been doing impulse control exercises with different cues. Giving up a toy during play is now “out”, waiting for her meals is “wait” and don’t-touch-that-ever is the single word “leave” (I’m hoping she doesn’t associate this with the poisoned cue ‘leave it’, depending on how things work out this could be yet another error). The use of the same cue for different behaviours is a blindingly obvious flaw in our training program that should have been remedied a long time ago. I overlooked it, and now I have to work and fix it. And that’s fine!
When I first started my training with Maya (over a year ago), I wondered why she wouldn’t sit when asked to if we were out. She seemed to understand ‘sit’ perfectly when I had a treat in my hand at home, but stared at me blankly when I gave her the cue in the middle of a field.
Some trainers would see this as disobedience that needs to be ‘corrected’, but really it was my fault. After research, I found that a dog doesn’t fully learn a behaviour until it has been proofed. The ‘sit’ behaviour hadn’t been practiced in a distracting environment, so by asking for it, all I was achieving was making the cue less meaningful.
So I took this with me from my experience, and now we practice new commands everywhere so that she performs them reliably, and proof them in as many different circumstances as possible: with no food in my hand, with my back turned, on the street, around other dogs/animals… and so on. I build strong foundations for behaviours so that it doesn’t matter where we are or what’s happening, she will still listen.
Will Only Work For Food
Another problem - she was only performing behaviours when I had food on my person. Some compulsion trainers say that the way to get reliable behaviours without a food or toy reward is through punishment. However, if your dog only performs when you have a reward then it is actually being used as a bribe. The way around this is, when you are teaching a behaviour, reinforce every attempt (mark + reward). However, when you are reciting learnt behaviours, it is best to use a variable reinforcement schedule.
I was rewarding too often when she was doing things that she knew. So I started to reward after asking for 2-3 behaviours, and gradually increased how much I would ask of her before she would be rewarded. The ideal variable of reinforcement that produces the most reliable behaviours with the lowest rate of extinction (as found by Skinner) is VR10. So for every 10 behaviours, the animal gets a reward.
I also began to ask Maya to do behaviours for me without anything on me. Then when she did them, I’d use my verbal marker ‘yes’ and get a reward from somewhere around the house. This helped her understand no reward on my person doesn’t mean she won’t be rewarded at all. Another way that I phased out treats as bribes was by incorporating ‘life rewards’. E.g. sitting before going out for a walk, or down-stay before being released to play at the park. This goes hand in hand with the premack principle.
A lot of people think treats should be phased out completely, but that can lead to the extinction of the behaviour, since it is not being reinforced. Unless the dog is reprimanded for not complying - which is not something I agree with in training due to risk of fallout. Now that Maya is reliable with her behaviours without an immediate reward, she is better prepared for sports such as HTM Freestyle, where there are no treats allowed in the ring.
My point is basically that learning better ways and improving your techniques is part of being a trainer. I am still very new at this whole-training-thing (my training journey began in November 2014 when I got Maya), and so I am having to correct myself (for want of a better word) All. The. Time. Filming training sessions can instantly make 10 errors embarrassingly obvious, but you shouldn’t beat yourself up over it! Learn from them, and use them to improve yourself.
I was thinking ecollar because she has been to two trainers and the last one yanked her up by the leash and she has become extremely protective on leash now, to the point where she will put herself between us and strangers and will bark and lung at them. So, after spending upwards of $2000 on training to have her behaviour drastically worsen, my dad is refusing to see another trainer, especially since the last one did such a horrible thing and made her see a leash as a big thing.
It is important to look for a trainer that only uses positive reinforcement. It is silly to infer that since this trainer did a shitty thing that no other trainer is worth the money. Obviously that isn’t true, it just takes time to find the proper person. Any one can claim to be a dog trainer - it isn’t something that is required by law to have a certification/license for. So it really is up to you to make sure you do that research and check those references before handing cash over to some alpha rolling bozo. You’ll be doing more damage trying to figure out an e-collar than trusting someone with experience.
Melbourne /Aussie dogblrs and tumblrs in general I need your help!
I’m currently studying a biological science bachelor majoring in zoology, with a super keeen interest in animal bahviour, and want to do an internship (or two) to make sure I graduate with practical and real knowledge that will be useful, SO if you are or know someone who works in animal behaviour and training I’d really love to chat about the possibility working under a qualified person in a volunteer assistant kind of capacity.
Knowing the theory of clicker training and shaping or redirecting behaviour is definitely not all there is to working with animals, and I want to be prepared and confident in my abilities and education when I graduate, so would very much appreciate any boosting or advice on this field. Thank you!
willingness to play or eat can be used to gauge how comfortable they
are in a situation. Even very playful dogs will refuse to play if
they’re too stressed; and even very hungry dogs may refuse to eat.
Admiral Taskmaster, Hherlock Solmes, Coedwig oConcrid of Rove and The Greatest Guardian. All these are the many aliases of Ulven Blaiddenllwyrd.
Ulv grew up in a small monastery in the Southern mountains and was trained from a young age to slay the monsters of the world. However, he soon discovered the other side of the monastery, housing many beautiful maidens. A few years of sneaking back and forth to this side of the monastery he was finally caught and banished for his behaviour.
Training incomplete, Ulv was lost in the world. He searched for work and eventually found a notice sent out by the grand sorceress asking for young adventurers to assist her in a task in exchange for coin. Ulv travelled to the capital and it was there he met with his fellow adventurers.
Ulven Blaiddenllwyrd on his journey has so far:
Fallen for a Elvish general and got her pregnant with twins, murdered a king without his party knowing, spent a night with a god, sold himself and Luellen’s ward to C, unwittingly helped C murder an entire civilisation via drowning, helped a nation to criminalise slavery and killed his own friend with a badly placed whirlwind.
Hello, i am one of two staff who run an avian training and behaviour business in Perth Western Australia, would we be able to use some of your images in our instagram and Facebook ? I have posted one with credit to you and your tumblr account but can delete if not allowed. We love your informative and humorous comics! - Georgia Parrot Life behaviour and training.
Hello there! Thank you for reaching out, I really appreciate it. Though, in general I’d prefer questions like these to be asked off anonymous, since I get to those quicker, you’re more likely to see the response, and I am generally very, very self-conscious and unresponsive to anonymous messages :)
I generally don’t like my things on Instagram because of the sizing, but as long as you credit me there I’m ok with it. As for facebook, I have a Facebook page already so I’d prefer people to share from there instead. You can get to it by searching Potatopato (<- I also linked it). Thanks!