tipping machine


I can’t get over the idea of Henry and Bendy throwing puns at each other!

Comic inspired by @doodledrawsthings Hells Studio AU
and @whatisthisnonsense ‘s and @squigglydigglydoo ‘s amazing fanfic 
(and with @doodledrawsthings ‘s Henry design)

@everestcresent helped me out with 100% of the puns on this comic and their my bestie. Please go check out their blog!

And this comic, had a LOT of alternate possible routs (5+ written down)
So, below the cut is one of those alt routs (which has bonus panels)
(the rest will merely be in the tags)

Keep reading

One-armed Bandit Tarot

*Slot Machine Spread*

The archetypical slot machine typically have three reels of symbols, but there’s nothing wrong with adding more reels (rows of cards) if you are so inclined and if it fits a particular reading you would want to do.

In this example, I will use 3 card reads, which literally could be anything that’s supposed to be read in a linear fashion (past, present, future - mind, body, spirit etc.)

You will need: A deck of cards, a coin or something similar (like a stone)  and at least one six-sided die.

With your, or your clients question in mind, shuffle the cards in your normal fashion. Cut the deck as normal, and deal out three rows of cards, each with six cards in them.

Offer a coin as a symbolic gesture. This could be a magical coin if you have that, or you could make one for this specific purpose, or if you like to do post-apocalyptic witchcraft, you could use a bottle cap, or any kind of stone or an object of symbolic value to you or your client would do. 

Pull an imaginary lever. Roll the die one time for each row. Turn over the card corresponding with the number on the die. There you have your results.

You could variants on this if you would like. Like for instance, use more rows, as mentioned, or put more, or less, cards in each row, if you own polyhedric dice. You know, D4, D6, D8, D10, D12, D20. Or use a random number generator either online or on an app on your phone. 

You could even turn all the cards over before rolling the dice and pretend you are allowed to step up or down a number of times in order to make a more favourable read. 

Have fun! 

phazerstorm  asked:

I just adore your art style, it's so cute! I'm thinking of making comics myself. Do you think you could give me some tips on angling or facial expressions or overall detail?

Thank you so so much! I really appreciate that! Like, a whole lot. ^^

I’m not exactly sure how much I’ll be able to help you, though I can at least give you some pointers on expressions! I’ll do my best. I’m sorry this is coming a bit late! 

I’m going to use Bendy for my examples, just because he’s super easy to draw and I have him on hand/mind at the moment. But! These can be used on just about anyone.

Keep in mind: this is just my way of doing things. There isn’t one “set” way to create great art! There’s a lot of experimenting, testing and growing when it comes to artwork.

When it comes down to expressions, there are a few things to consider: what are they feeling? How intense is this feeling? How far can, or should you push it? How can you make this feel realistic? In visual storytelling, showing what a character is going through is far more important than telling the reader. In a comic setting, there’s a very fine balance–since you have images to go with the words, but you can’t convey each minute action… At least in a reasonable amount of panels, the dialogue and the images have to work together when they’re used in tandem.

When a character is shouting, you have to push their expression further–it won’t be enough to show them with their mouth slightly open, or with a flat face. Give them wide eyes, or shut their eyes completely with frustration. Open their mouth wide, maybe even get their body language involved if you have enough room. Throw their arms in the air, have them pulling at their hair!

Likewise, if what they’re saying is quiet or somber, soften their expression. Have their gaze ill-focused, or looking to the ground. Their shoulders could be slumped, their brow could be low. Their mouth could be almost, or entirely closed. Or are they happy? Raise their eyebrows, widen their eyes with joy! Bring out that smile! Use as much variety and as many shapes as you can!

Because I’m a visual person, here are a few examples to give you a better idea of what I mean:

(I’m sorry if my handwriting is hard to read)

Which facial expressions are more interesting? Sure, the ones on the left are going through the motions of emoting, but the ones to the right REALLY show how the character is feeling!

Body language is also immensely important when it comes down to expressiveness. Every part of the body can be used to convey a message. The crossing of arms can indicate disgust, or even put a small barrier between two people. Slumped shoulders show disappointment or sadness. Every little movement a character makes can have a massive impact on their overall tone. Here are a few examples like the above:

Even minute changes to a static pose can make a BIG difference! Test around and see what works best.

I’ve noticed that some animators have mirrors near their desk. This is so they can look up at their reflection and make a face into the mirror. They project their character’s feelings onto themselves, that way they can see what sort of facial expression would be best suited to that emotion. Nowadays we can just google this, but it’s still a good idea. Don’t be afraid to look up references whenever you need them. I know I do frequently! There’s no shame in using references!

My friend linked me to this wonderful guide, which goes more in-depth than I did here. Take a look!

I’m sorry I can’t help you quite as much with angles. I feel that I’d need to do a little more research in order to be able to articulate this more fluently. Perhaps some other time I can try and revisit this and go more into depth about perspective and foreshortening, but for now, here’s another great guide that might help you along in the right direction. I use a similar structure for my own drawings! 

Speaking of foreshortening, here’s another tutorial! I don’t use this particular method, but it may work for you!

I know you didn’t ask for it, but I’d like to give you some tips about comic making. If you don’t want them, then I guess you can just stop reading, pfff. Either way I’ll put it under a cut so this post doesn’t take up so much of the dashboard.

Keep reading

Sounds from every drum machine ever made

Free download of the pack here (677M) : https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwFmp5yPUtlsNndFc0hqY0hGbE0/view

Drum Machines in sample pack (13838 files in total):

|– 505, 707 & 727|– Ace Tone Rhythm Ace|– Akai XR-10|– Alesis HR16|– Boss DR110|– Boss DR220|– Boss DR55|– Boss DR550MK2|– Casio PT30|– Casio RZ1|– Casio SK1|– Casio VL1|– DeepSky Drumbox|– EMU SP12|– Fairlight IIX|– Farfisa Rhythm Maker 16|– Fricke MFB 501|– Fricke MFB 502|– Fricke MFB 512|– Gulbransen|– Hammond Auto-Vari 64|– Hammond Rhythm II|– Jomox Xbase 09|– Kawai R-100|– Kawai R50|– Kawai R50e|– Kawai XD-5|– Kent Rhythm Master|– Ketron SD-5 Percussion|– Korg|– Kurzweil K2000|– Linn 9000|– Linn LM-1|– Linn LM-2|– Linn Linndrum|– Luxor Passat|– MXR Drum Computer 185|– Maestro Rhythm King|– Maestro Rhythm MRQ-1|– Mattel Electronics Synsonics|– Melosonic 350|– MultiMoog|– Nord Rack 2|– Novation Drumstation|– Oberheim DMX|– Oberheim DX|– Oberheim Matrix 1000|– One Shots|– Pearl SC-40 Bassdrums|– Percussion|– Polyvox|– Processed Acoustic|– Producer kits|– Quasimidi Rave-O-Lution 309|– R8Drums|– RSF DD-30|– RY30|– Realistic Concertmate MG-1 Moog|– Rhodes Polaris|– Rhythm Ace FR-8|– Rhythm King|– Roland|– Ruby Orla|– SC-40 Bassdrums|– SD-5 Percussion|– SP1200 Percussion|– Sakata DPM48|– SequentialCircuits Drumtraks|– SequentialCircuits Tom|– Serge Modular|– Siel MPD-40|– Simmons Clap Trap|– Simmons SDS1000|– Simmons SDS8|– SimmonsSDS5|– Solton Compu Rhythm|– Sonor Mini Mammut|– Sound Master Rhythm 1|– Sound Master SR-88 Memory Rhythm|– Suzuki RPM-40|– Univox_MicroRhytmer12|– VOX DRUMBOX|– Vermona DRM1|– Vermona ER-9|– Virtual MPC Electronics|– Virus TI|– Visco_Space_Drum|– WAV All_Vocals|– WAV Drum & Perc|– WAV drumloops|– WAV hh+filterloops|– Wersi WM 24|– Yamaha|– soundbank|– stopa|– tr606-626

Another video replay from Toreba- winning the Neko Atsume pillow :)

are y’all really expecting me to believe that someone raised to kill Jack and was punished by her own mother for showing any sort of compassion while being shielded from the outside world and outside culture all her life, who didn’t even understand what the hell those nuzzling deer were doing in the woods, knew how to kiss or did not even show a hint of confusion over her feelings?

I’m a bit behind on Inktober, but I’m slowly catching up!

Day 17 is Sammy holding onto Ink Bendy. I’ve had this idea since…a while after Chapter 2 came out? Thought I’d draw it now!

I attempted drawing it once, but didn’t like how it came out. You can see it here on the bottom right. You can only see Sammy ‘cause I didn’t like how Ink Bendy looked, rip.

working on my fitness (he’s my witness)

They say gym friends make the best boyfriends…right? Eh, according to Jack they do.

Jack and Bitty left an entire list of instructions for the house. Mostly it was about keeping the place generally tidy and not sitting on anything while naked.

Clearly there were a few Haus traditions they didn’t want to bring with them to the new place. 

This was the first time Kent was house sitting for Jack and Bitty, but so far it was a breeze. They gave him free access to their wine collection and he was allowed to eat any of the baked goods that had been left in the house. And all he had to do was make sure no one broke into the house and occasionally dust and vacuum while they road tripped with Bob and Alicia.

After each of their playoff runs were cut short, Kent had drifted around Vegas while Jack settled back down in Providence. With Bitty by his side, Jack had bounced back and jumped right back into photography, planning a road trip with his parents across the US to explore the National Parks.

Kent had lingered, aimlessly trying to figure out life after the abrupt end of the post-season. So when Jack asked if he wanted a change of scenery and to house sit for a couple weeks, he packed his bags. Even Kit wanted a change of pace and tolerated her cat carrier for the trip, and they were off to Providence.

Keep reading

Common Fursuit-related Questions

Is it hot in a fursuit?

Yes it can be. When building your costume plan to add vents in as many places as you can. I prefer to leave the mouth area open as much as I can by hollowing out the muzzle all the way to the wearer’s nose. I also add ear vents and have large eye openings good for ventilation as well. Small battery-operated fans can help move air and ventilate as well!

Is this hobby expensive?

It depends on your budget! It is possible to build fursuits on a budget, use fabric store discount coupons as much as you can! Some things involved in fursuit-making can be expensive, particularly the faux fur and the foam. Even online retailers of faux fur have sales, so if you are budget-conscious be sure to get on their mailing lists so you know when to buy! You do not want to “cheap-out” on your thread or faux fur, however, so buy the best you can afford.

How much fur do I need to buy?

Create your patterns and then measure them. Everyone is a different size and their projects are varying shapes, so this is a hard question to answer with one number! It is easy to figure out for yourself, though! You will know exactly how much fur to buy if you mark out a space on the floor 60 inches (5 feet) wide by 36 inches (3 feet) long – this is the amount of fabric you get for one yard of faux fur – and arrange your pattern pieces to estimate your yardage you would need to buy for each color. Fur is directional, the fur lays with the length.

What is the best way to cut out my patterns in fur?

Use a razor blade and cut only the backing. Your fur will not shed as much and it makes the process go by quicker than using scissors! Cutting against a carpet remnant is better than cutting against a hard surface as well, it will reduce the likelihood of shorn fibers when cutting with a blade.

Why did the fur I order arrive wrinkled?

The fabric known as faux fur that we all know and love is manufactured in various places around the world. Some is manufactured in the USA while others are manufactured in China or other countries. During their long trips from the manufacturer, to the distributer, to the fabric store, and then to you it is possible that the ship, truck, or warehouse endured hot weather, hot climates, and/or compressed conditions. This recipe of heat and compression is why occasionally the fur will arrived wrinkled, creased, and sometimes even damaged when it finally reaches our doorstep. Many online suppliers have a good return policy and you can return it if it is something you do not think you can fix. I have a tutorial on fixing wrinkled fur here.

Does storing fur wrinkle the fibers?

Long-term compression and heat are often what wrinkles the fibers. Storing your faux fur and finished costumes in a cool place where they are not compressed or folded tightly for a long time will prevent wrinkling. You can also re-arrange your fabric every so often so it does not get the chance to compress down on itself.

Will using a space bag or vacuuming the air of of plastic bags when I travel wrinkle the fur?

Space bags are the perfect way to travel with a fursuit. Space bags are special bags with a nozzle that you vacuum all of the air out with. They are an excellent solution if you are traveling with multiple costumes! It is perfectly safe to space bag your costumes for a day or two while you are traveling. Be sure to unpack them right away at your destination because anything longer than a few days can wrinkle your costume. I would never recommend storing any costume or fabric like this long-term.

How do I accommodate for glasses when making a fursuit head?

Get some used sunglasses, from a thrift store for example, and tape them directly to your dummy head. This way you can build your head over that dummy form with glasses on it to accommodate the wearer having glasses worn under the mask. Make sure the neck opening is big enough so it is not a struggle for the wearer to get them on that way though!

Do I need a sewing machine?

No, many people get by without the use of a sewing machine and have had lots of success hand-sewing their costumes. However, know that a sewing machine is a tool to help you sew faster and more accurately, it can be a really awesome time-saver on a large project such as a fursuit costume! There are some techniques that cannot be easily done without use of a sewing machine.

Do I need an “old fashioned” or “heavy duty” machine?

While an “old fashioned” machine (pre-1980’s) is perfectly suitable for sewing, it is by all means not necessary. The same goes for “heavy duty” or industrial-rated sewing machines, they sew but are not a necessity for fursuits. Modern sewing machines have modern advantages, I personally use modern Pfaff brand sewing machines and highly recommend them! I have two, a LifeStyle 2022 that I used for over 13 years and an Ambition 2.0 that I recently upgraded to. I learned to sew on an “old fashioned” White brand sewing machine. I struggled and fought with it, but it sewed. When I upgraded to a modern sewing machine, sewing no longer felt like a struggle or a chore and I was delighted to sew any and everything!

Can I use a cheap sewing machine?

Sure, but you do get what you pay for! Like what I mentioned above for “old fashioned” and “heavy duty” style machines, they will sew. But if you find it is a struggle or a chore because you are constantly fighting with your machine you may be using the wrong one for the job. Take a trip to a sewing machine store and bring faux fur scraps to try out on the display models with the salesperson.

Do I need to use “upholstery”-weight thread?

No. You are sewing a garment, not a couch or curtains! It is better to have your seam pop than it is for your fabric backing to tear. High quality thread suitable for sewing clothing is what you want to use to sew your costume items with! Many sewing machine issues stem from using upholstery weight thread, especially in the bobbin. If you are using this kind of thread and having machine trouble, definitely switch to a garment-weight thread. As for the history behind this question: Upholstery thread is an old-school fursuit maker recommendation from a time before fursuits knowledge was as vast as it is now, and costumes were not tailored as well as they are nowadays. So it was a choice to use Upholstery thread to make a possibly ill-fitted or quickly made fursuit last the long convention weekend. Now fursuits are worn for record numbers of years and tailored very well, so appropriate materials are extremely important for a fursuit that lasts more than 1 weekend.

What kind of thread is recommended for sewing a fursuit?

Polyester thread is perfect for fursuits, definitely buy the best you can afford – you get what you pay for! Note, unfortunately Cotton thread has very little give to it and tends to break easily, so is not suitable for faux fur. Since Polyester has a slight give compared to cotton it is perfect for faux fur’s backing.

What kind of sewing machine needle should I choose?

A ballpoint needle is recommended for the knit backing that most faux furs commonly have. It is very important to use new needles when sewing, otherwise over time the tiny holes created by a broken or dull needle can become larger.

Do I need a serger or an overlock machine?

No. While many manufactured clothing seams are serged or overlocked in a factory-setting if you are a hobbyist you certainly do not need to serge or overlock your fursuit’s seams. In professional fursuit making it can be used as finishing step to make the interior look nice for a paying client. A serged seam has built-in elasticity common for use on knits, but due to the bulkyness of faux fur using the cutter of a serger is often not practical for directly sewing pattern pieces together, so a serger is only a finishing tool, and not a replacement for a sewing machine.

Do I need to double-stitch or reinforce any of my seams?

Not every seam needs double stitched. Only the heavy stress areas such as the crotch, and armpit areas. I recommend reinforcing them with a zigzag, in case the straight stitch breaks the zigzag is a more stretchable stitch. Again, it is better to have your seam pop than it is for your fabric backing to tear.

What if my fabric backing tears?

You will either have to cut a new pattern piece, or patch in a new piece of fabric. It is not as easy as sewing another line of stitching if it were just a seam that popped.

Do I need to hem?

Hemming is a technique where an edge is folded over once or twice and then sewn. On faux fur, hemming is just not practical or necessary. Since faux fur does not tend to unravel is it perfectly safe to leave arm and leg cuffs untreated. In fact the costume parts blend nicer with one another (such as between an arm cuff and a paw glove) if the cuff edge of the bodysuit is left untreated. If you want to prevent an edge from stretching, instead use bias tape to finish the edge. Bias tape is a small strip of folded cloth cut on the fabric’s bias so it has a slight stretch to it. Bias tape can be used on the bodysuit’s neck opening, the cuff opening for a paw glove, or the cuff opening for a footpaw. It is not used on the arm or leg cuffs of the bodysuit or the neck of the head, those are left untreated.

I thought I knew how to sew a zipper, why is my zipper slider always getting stuck in the fur?

Faux fur is a completely different animal, and it needs a special approach when sewing in the zipper. It cannot be sewn in with traditional techniques if you want the zipper to not be exposed. Please see my tutorial here.

What is “DF”

This term is semi-dated, it is a furry fandom word to describe a specific quality of faux fur. “DF” originated because Distinctive Fabrics was the first to the awareness of the furry fandom that that carried a soft fine grain 2-inch pile faux fur that Shannon Fabrics manufactures under the “Luxury Shag” name. Since Distinctive Fabrics is not the manufacturer (only one of many suppliers) using DF to describe it is a misnomer. It is also known as shag, punky muppet, or promo shag, all to describe the very same product. It is a nice quality faux fur suitable for use in fursuit costumes.

What is “fun fur”

It is a dated term, it is a furry fandom word to describe a specific quality of faux fur. Fun Fur is used to describe a low quality, cheaply-priced, dry, easily matted, rough-textured fur that is not suitable for use on fursuit costumes. The term is slowly going away because of the prevalence of much higher quality fur choices now available and saturating the market. A decade ago “fun fur” was common, now it is not.

What is “Buckram”

Buckram is a type of white, stiff, woven fabric mesh that is saturated in starch. It is primarily used for hatmaking and as an interfacing, but fursuit makers have discovered that it works perfectly for the iris and pupils of fursuit eyes. It can be colored with a variety of pigments and inks and can then be sealed to protect it from moisture. It is not waterproof, however.

Do I need an “Action Packer” to travel with my fursuit?

Absolutely not! If you are traveling, high quality luggage is most appropriate for a fursuit. Unfortunately Action Packers are prone to the handles breaking during flights and lids falling off, there have even been cases of parts of or even complete fursuits being lost while being shipped in an action packer and the costume spilling out and becoming lost. That just doesn’t happen with normal luggage! Most Fursuits are completely soft with very few hard parts (often only the nose, teeth and eyes) so it is safe to squish and vaccum pack them. If your fursuit has a resin-built head, very nice hard-sided luggage is available to prevent breakage. Most Action packers are literally sold alongside the trash cans in stores and nowhere near the luggage section, don’t trust your expensive fursuit to that!

How do I check for quality in this fursuit I bought?

Quality in many cases can be subjective, but the list below is very objective and is what the average buyer should expect from their maker in a fursuit that they buy:

  • No pins remaining or sharp edges left behind.
  • Fur pile is brushed from seams.
  • No stray threads left untrimmed.
  • Any edges that are left untreated are a material that does not unravel or at risk of separation (faux fur, fleece, lycra, starched felt, plastic, vinyl, and leather are among those that do not unravel)
  • Decorative stitching (i.e. on cuffs, paw pads) is even and thread color matches.
  • Interior lining (if present) has edges either sewn down, glued, or trimmed flush so it does not obstruct ventilation or vision.
  • Vision area on interior has fur pile or fabric trimmed or covered so it does not obstruct or fall in the way.
  • Materials used can withstand moisture or humidity or are sealed so they can.

If you are selling a fursuit, new or used, be sure to examine the above list to make sure that your client is aware of any issues before they commit to the sale.

I am happy to field more questions on various fursuit-related topics! Feel free to send me an Ask if you have something you’d like to know! Please note: I may not reply directly since I plan to update this list with future question(s).


Happy Birthday Charles Laughton 1st July 1899 - 15th December 1962

Rembrandt is his great part, his matriculation; full of the intimate moments that test an actor’s integrity to the highest…probably the finest acting performance ever recorded on celluloid. - C A Lejeune

Charles was both inteligent and gifted, with an instinctive genius for acting. - Jean Renoir

Apart from ‘Ambersons’, the most exciting experience I have had in the cinema was with Charles Laughton on 'Night of the Hunter’…every day I considered something new about light, that incredible thing that can’t be described. Of the directors I’ve worked with, only two ever understood it, Orson Welles and Charles Laughton. - Stanley Cortez

I have become a teller of stories. I would like to become the man who knows all the stories…When I go into a good book-store or library, I often feel sad when I see the shelves of books that I will never be able to enjoy. I think of all the wonderful tales I will never know, and I wish I could live to be a thousand years old. - Charles Laughton


Just a nice little tip if you didn’t know, If you need to sew spandex or other stretchy materials but don’t have the money for a serger, buy a stretch needle. The photo on the left was sewn with a universal ball point needle and the one on the right is sewn with a stretch needle! Just ask your local sewing material suppliers were to find them in the store.

I work at a chipotle- style store. We’re small and trendy so we have a tip option on the debit machine. One day, a customer tells me “you guys should remove the tip option from the machine. You guys don’t deserve tips because you don’t bring the food to the table”. Of course, I just smiled and gave her the receipt and pointed her to the next counter. Fuck customers.

The problem with smelly clothes

Your clothes start to smell bad after a certain time of using your washing machine? Your washing machine itself starts to smell? Then here’s a thing for you:

  • Use less softeners. Remains get stuck inside the machine and in the water pipes;
  • After letting the washing machine run, don’t close it after taking out your clothes. Let fresh air in and let it dry on the inside, otherwise it’s the perfect place for bacterias and in combination with the remains of softeners that leads to a very, very bad smell (like rotten eggs & such.);
  • Wash your towels at high temperatures. I know, I know. People will start with “But the costs!! The water!! THE COSTS!!”. Honestly. Fuck that. Collect your towels, put them into the washing machine and wash them at 90°C (ONLY THE TOWELS!). Believe me, they won’t shrink or get destroyed. But the high temperature kills bacterias and it will clean your machine and the pipes. You’re getting rid of the remains of softeners and detergents. And it will make you happy to know to use towels after taking a shower/bath and they’re not full of chemical shit and bacterias. Also your other clothes won’t smell bad after washing them normally then. Oh. And your washing machine’s lifetime increases by doing that on a constant basis;
  • You don’t have that many towels to do that too often? Most probably only once a month? No problem. Once a month is enough to do so. You can also just let your washing machine run without anything inside but cider vinegar, also at 90°C. Open the washing machine right after that and let it air dry. You can wash your towels together with your other clothes normally. But at least wash them alone at high temperatures once a month. It’s worth it;
  • Also make sure to clean the rinser of your washing machine. It usually is at the bottom front of the machine. Put a large towel in front of it and place a bowl/a soup plate underneath it to catch the water that’s going to flow out. Clean the rinser. And maybe you’ll find some interesting things, like money, hair clips, etc… you might’ve been searching for for some time.
  • Avoid using washing powder. Some might prefer it, but I hate using it. It’s too aggressive to your clothes, it clots easily and can get stuck in the water pipes. Also, I myself am allergic to most of them, so I mostly use selfmade detergents or some liquid laundry detergent I know I’m not allergic to.

Russian PKM General-Purpose Machine Gun

“Pulemyot Kalashnikova,” (Kalashnikov’s Machinegun"), Modernized.

Chambered in 7.62x54r and firing at 650 to 800 round-per-minute (via an adjustable gas block).  Pictured with the 100 and 250-round box magazines full of belted Bulgarian silver-tip.