thom browne spring 2014

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RUNWAY TO IDOL: THOM BROWNE X SHINEE

SHINee’s ‘Everybody’ concept was moving, beautiful, bold and intellectual and, I feel, one of the standouts of k-pop’s 2013. Using Thom Browne’s Spring/Summer 2014 military menswear runway looks complimented with tiny, thoughtful changes and additions - piercings, heavy gunmetal rings and most noticeably, replacing Thom’s striking red lipstick from the runway with an almost metallic nude lip, heavy blush and defined eyes. Modelling semi-pros SHINee did much for this collection - they truly conveyed its beauties, its colors, its tactile textures. There was much talk in the fashion world about this being a collection with heavy political overtones - models marched out and raised a white flag to the sound of The Beatles’ 'All You Need Is Love’ - perhaps the New Yorker designer was commenting on America’s questionable LGBT military policies? However, when asked for comment on this subtext, he simply replied: “I love uniforms. I’ve been wanting to do them for a while.” Thank Goodness he got around to it. 

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What A Knock Out!

Thom Browne Men’s Spring 2014 

Thom Browne’s legion of swanky cyborg militia mixed a variety of structured military coats in a variety of materials (ranging from conventional wool to elegant jacquard to S&M quality patent leather) with a smattering of Bowie-esque punk and a cornucopia of  Eighteenth-century frippery.The designer drew from a ceremonial palette of white, red, blue, black and grey and created an officious parade of well-heeled, aviator-wearing commander-clones. The cavalry of Browne’s toy soldiers bedecked in red are the preening doppelgangers of Capcom’sM. Bison, a hulking, brutish video-game villain who’s the virtually invincible cherry atop the Street-Fighter sundae.

{photosource: wwd, streetfighterwikia}

"THEY CAN'T HURT YOU, THEIR STYLE WILL NEVER DESERT YOU, BECAUSE THEY'RE ALL SAFELY DEAD..."

a few years ago I sat next to Thom Browne at the Waverly Inn, when that was a thing. the Waverly that is, not sitting next to Thom Browne. i’m pretty sure that's still a thing. i could tell it was him right away, mostly from the grooming and the ankles–I wasn’t totally focussed, mostly because Bruce Weber, Fran Lebowitz, and freaking NAS were also there, but i’m pretty sure he was just as normal looking as Mr. Nastradamus. this then, this undead parade, this trip down the rabbit hole led by the Ghost of Helena Bonham Carter, this that is TOTALLY freaking me out, must have come out of someone else’s brain? someone NOT innocently wearing a gray flannel suit?

Morrissey lyric: Munich Air Disaster 1958