I always hear people complaining about how much better the piece looked digitally, SO, here is a run down on how to get prints that look more like your original piece.
First of all, every printer is different. Every paper is different. Make sure you take the time to do test prints and become familiar with how your printer and paper combo work, as you’ll rarely nail a print your first try. This one took about 5 test prints before I was confident to print on the expensive large paper Every time I mess up on a print, I save the remaining paper to use as scraps for test prints.
As you can see, the original piece looks very nice! The focus is super strongly on the tiger, and all of the vibrant colors are still super evident in the background. That said, when I print it as is, everything about 85% gray or darker turns BLACK. And this is high quality paper designed to get accurate vibrant colors, too.
The best way to fix this is to do layer effects. Brightness/contrast is my favorite, as a typical piece will generally print about 5x better if you up the brightness to around 15-25, and adjust the contrast up or down by 5-10 points. That said, if you have a HIGH contrast piece (Darks against brights) like this one, you typically need to do a few more steps.
Often I’ll do a second brightness/contrast adjustment layer and push brightness to an obnoxious level so the darkest darks are closer to a mid-dark range. From there, I’ll create a mask and use a transparent gradient tool to slowly pull back the brightness on all of the lighter areas of the image.
Additionally, due to printers using CMYK and your screen being RBG certain colors just physically CANNOT print. Some people will always work in CMYK because of this, but honestly I like my saturated colors and most of my work is intended to be seen digitally so I only ever work in RGB. Photoshop has a nifty toggle (Ctrl + Y) where you can toggle between CMYK and RGB view to see how your piece will appear when it prints. It’s useful to check this because if you worked in a color that cannot replicate in print, you may want to shift it entirely before you even bother printing.
Artwork tends to desaturate a bit as it prints, so I’ll often make a Hue/saturation layer to play with, too. In this case the image was already pretty damn saturated, BUT some of the shadows on the tiger were printing more brown than orange, so I adjusted the saturation a bit to keep them vibrant with the rest of the image. **DO NOT use “Lightness” to lighten your image! It basically adds a white overlay to your image. Always use Brightness, instead.
After all of that, I have a final print that much more closely captures the essence of the original painting. I could have tinkered even more, but to me the goal is a good print rather than an exact copy.
For ULTRA high contrast images, like a dark room looking out into a snowy exterior, expect to do a LOT of adjustment to get it to print correctly. Printers just aren’t too fond of super darks right up against super lights.
I could make a proper tutorial on this if people request it. Mostly, just wanted to put my thoughts down in one spot!
I did my best working with what is essentially the MSpaint of photoshop software (also while using a laptop track pad the whole time) to edit the KH3 render of Sora into the drive form we saw in the newest trailer!
Some of the colors may not be exactly right because I was working with blurry screenshots from a part of the trailer with very low lighting, but I think it’s gotta be pretty close!
It’s transparent and free to use, just tag me in it of you do so I can see what you did with it!
I usually use both Photoshop and Clip Studio Paint to finish a painting. I find it easier to blend on CSP so occasionally I’d throw the file into CSP to soften some brush strokes BUT RECENTLY (like last week) I started fiddling with the flow slider in photoshop and discovered magic!!
Flow, unlike opacity, keeps the intensity of the color but it softens the edges of the brush which makes it easier to blend! I’ve been using psd for years how am i only discovering this now?? Now I don’t really need to use csp as often hahaha
I got quite a few asks about my eye color in my selfie today, mostly people going “wait what, I thought you had blue eyes not green!” so I’m bringing back these photos so you can get a better look.
Yes those are all me, no I haven’t photoshopped my eyes, they are indeed changing color from picture to picture. It is however, nothing to do with my ~emotions~, but a genetic mutation called heterochromia iridum.
For some people that means one eye is one color, say, blue, and the other might be brown. If you punch heterochromia iridum into google image you’ll see lots of results. That’s a pretty rare form of it though, as most people seem to have only one eye affected, and it’ll usually be blue with brown markings in it, usually central (around the pupil) or sectoral (elsewhere in the iris like an outer corner)
And then there’s weird mutant bastards like me who have central and sectoral heterochromia iridum in both eyes. So while a lot of the time it looks like I have blue eyes, that’s usually because I wear a lot of blue and my eyes pick up the color.
Up until recently I used to put down “blue” for my eye color when asked but recently switched to “hazel” for my US immigration papers because their cameras kept picking up the two-tone color and didn’t match what was in the data base and the technician got fussy. What my eyes actually look from a distance is a sort of muddy hazel, until you get up close and then you are able to see the blue with shades of dark brown (central) radiating out from my pupil (again, in both eyes), with shades of lighter brown and green taking up sections of my iris like a pie chart in various different corners.
I also have gold freckles somewhere in there too which eye doctors like to point out as being rather unique in someone with predominantly blue eyes, as opposed to wholly grey or brown and then make worried humming noises, but thankfully they are not cancerous so there’s that.
So whatever I am wearing—or if my environment is particularly bright—will determine what dominant eye color stands out. So as you can see while my eyes looked green today (photo on the right) I was also in direct sunlight looking out the window, so my eyes look green. On the far left I am actually wearing black and in artificial light which means you can see the blue more clearly cause there’s nothing to interfere with it, but you can also see some of the green and light brown there too, I think. Mostly you just see my freckles :D
The middle pic is probably my fave however cause it shows just how much whatever I am wearing can change the predominant color, cause I’m wearing purple and my eyes look almost violet, but you can also see the distinct different hues going on which is kinda neat. I’ve also only got one eyebrow penciled in cause I wanted to snap a pic before I lost the natural light but hey, worth it :)
I am indeed the main protagonist with changing eye color writing advice blogs warned you about.
I use mainly the blue/red pencil tools! You can easily change their colors by turning them into brushes. With that said though, pretty much any kind of pencil or pastel imitation brush will probably serve you just as well to get that traditional dry media effect.
Guys I love sparkles. Throw back to some photos from 2015! Oh my god we’re already in 2017 arent we? Aaaaah. @royallily’s amazing Bloom cosplay that I was just absolutely in love with. Yeah okay, I’ve never seen the show but you can tell just at a glance that this woman absolutely nailed this character. And those wings right? I know she paid a ton for them, I cant remember where she got them from but they were just so pretty and had such a nice natural reflective glow to them and matched the costume so perfectly. Nailed it babe. <3 Also it’s come to my attention that the colors are distorted on the mobile app. Try checking it out on desktop.
People have been asking about my palettes, so here they are in all their glory for you to use. It’s the actions I’ve made to use the colors. All the swatches have names in photoshop, and the corresponding number they match with the color.
my tou for my stuff:
don’t be a dick. [ give credit where credit is due ]
tag me in the pretty stuff you make [ i mean…you kinda have to, i chose all the colors ]
My final for my graphic design class where I had to recreate a title card from a movie or TV show. So I chose Over the Garden Wall. I animated and finished coloring all of the images two days before it was due and finished it about 18 minutes before the critique started. I recently fixed up a few parts of the animation and timing, so here it is. It’s not the best that I wanted to be, but it turned out pretty nice.
Steam’s Wonderful Contraption by Steampianist (x)
Hello! I really admire the "painted" look of your art, and struggle with it a lot myself. Could you please do a tutorial or walkthrough of how you color your art as well as what brushes you use? Thank you so much!
Sorry if this is a lil short HA my coloring process is actually pretty simple!
I only use one brush for coloring!
I use photoshop so if you use any other program you could probably get the same effect if you use a brush thats capable of applying pen pressure to opacity. (I know clip studio has this function now, i think every other is just gonna be low opacity + constantly eyedropping)
I realize this looks like 1. draw the circle 2. draw the rest of the owl
but! I think of it like..actually painting irl lol…(thanks school)
Basically if its on a white bg, I usually add an ‘underpainting’ - usually a color I want to accent the main colors themselves.(changed it from yellow to red because didnt like yellow..)
Then using the aforementioned brush I just..color with the local color and continually ‘paint’ the color over the parts I want it to be. It’s basically that over and over with all the colors I use.
When it’s supposed to be a different color, I like painting the different color over the other to make some kinda gradient effect. Which u can see on the sleeves + hair predominantly. I also like to outline shaded areas just because.
Heres a closeup + gif which is kinda..poor quality whoops but you can get the jist of it. basically eye dropper the hell out of everything.
When I first started out doing pixel art I couldn’t find a good tutorial on how to make trees. So now that I’m a bit better, I’ve decided to make my own!
For this tutorial, you’ll need some sort of digital art program. You probably shouldn’t be looking at digital art tutorials if you don’t have a digital art program. I use Pro Motion, but I’m pretty sure that Gimp and Photoshop work too.
For space-saving reasons, I’ll put the rest beneath the read more
I thought I’d do this because it would be cool and a few people wanted to know how I color! Let’s get to it, shall we?
The following tutorial could work for any art program with layers! I.e: Paint Tool Sai, Photoshop, Clip Studio Paint, Medibang Paint etc,,But for this I will be using Medibang, as it is my go to program!
First step you obviously draw and line (If you do that at least, the way I color and line requires that I have solid lineart so for this) your thing! For this i did a doodle of my oc Pitney, My lovely little dragoc boy. NOTE: I usually make my lineart dark grey!!
Next you just color! I usually shade with purples but since Pitney has such a pretty color scheme on his own I will not be shading this piece. Shading truly depends on (in my opinion) the color scheme of your subject, the mood you’re trying to convey and your personal preferences. (Because Pitney is happy, i want his colors to be nice and bright!)
Now i duplicate the lineart and make it this color!
Then blur it to your liking, set the layer to multiply, and put it in between the main lineart and color layer!
Finally you overlay a layer of tv static (or watercolor paint effects if you’re on Paint Tool Sai) and set the opacity really low or to whatever you like!
And thats it!! Go on and try it, have some fun with it!!