the process of making fashion

It is already 4/13 here so in honor of Teruki Hanazawa’s birthday~

so here is MERMAID TERU~!! 
(process gif under the cut!)

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Gown with front fall opening and a Vandyked collar (1780s)

So, this may not be a tutorial, but I’m sure that for some it could be used that way. I’ll make this kind of “update” post with photos and telling you what I’ve been doing. But first, let’s take a look at the original dress. This is kind of small, but it’s the only photo I’ve found of the original dress from the Manchester Art Gallery Collection:

 I’ve started with the pattern of this dress (taken from Patterns of Fashion by Janet Arnold):

Instead of digitally scale it to the real size I decided to draw it using the one from the book as a reference, and since I’m not going to use the same fabric direction for all pieces as in the book, I draw it on vegetal paper straight from the book and this will be the little pattern I’ll take everywhere:

Now, drawing the pattern to the original size is not hard: just marked the key points to draw it and measured with the scale-ruler the book has printed:

And then just draw the real size pattern with those measurements:

You should be careful with the curves! They’re easy if done carefully: the proper ruler and key points measurements are enough (look at my front bottom curve! It looks pretty!):

Maybe doing this is not such a great idea if the pattern is more complicated, with many curves or of you have no idea of pattern making. In this case, as you can see from the original pattern, the most complicated part for drawing is the sleeve and maybe the skirt’s pleats, so it’s quite simple.

As you can see from my small pattern drawing, I’ll make two different sleeves. The original dress has an elbow length sleeve and I want a long sleeve. I’m not completely sure what kind of long sleeve pattern is historically accurate for a 1780s dress, but I’ll try two styles: a long version of the original sleeve (I kept the dart and the little pleat at the inside of the elbow, which makes the sleeve curved) and from the same book I copied a long coat sleeve from ca. 1790. So I drew both and I’ll make a mock of both sleeves and see which one I like better, the coat sleeve (you can see the point I measured to draw it!):

Or the original sleeve in the long version I made:

Ok, so that’s as far as I am now. Next I’ll sew a super fast mock and I’ll let you know what happens!

Fool’s Gold

ao3 link

Beta: @ingenue-dan

Word count: 53k

Rating: R

Warnings: alcohol, mild anxiety, swearing, smut

Summary: Fashion designer, or rather fashion student, Dan Howell has just moved to NYC and meets Phil Lester, an aspiring advertising major. Success seems like an easy task but will Dan’s ambition and trips to the other side of the world interrupt his life too much?

Artist: @fallenflorals​ (art to be posted) and also check out my art of it here

Author’s Notes: o wow i meant for this fic to be 20k at the most. hah. this is my first pbb and i just have to say this has been an amazing experience. just a big shoutout to my beta, Dawn, who has been so lovely and supportive. also all my love to @danschode who has been checking up on my fic since the beginning and pressed me to keep going even if i thought i didn’t want to. this fic really has taken up a majority of my year and i’m so incredibly proud of it and i just hope you all enjoy <3

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Growing up with sisters

I’m so grateful to have grown up with older sisters. They’re given me great advice and I’ve learned so much from them just by observing them go through middle school, high school, the college process and college itself. They’ve prevented me from making grave fashion mistakes that I would regret in the future; they’ve been my photographers, chauffeurs, editors, critics, but also my biggest supporters. They like to FaceTime into my volleyball games and help me pick what I should order online, whether it be a pencil case or an expensive dress. They call randomly to check in yet seem to catch me at my busiest moments. I wish I could talk to them regularly instead of communicating through sending each other screenshots of memes or tweets we think they’d enjoy; but at the same time, I love doing both of those things with them equally.
Sometimes when school is rough and I just want to cry I usually call one of them. I call Gaelin to talk about school since she understands how Castilleja can be and I call Laine when something outside of school is bothering me. I always ask them advice whether that be wording for English or what classes I should take next year or what prom dress I should choose. They’re so easy to talk to and love to hear about what’s going on in their little sister’s life. I can’t understand what it would be like to have a little sister but even if I did, I’d still prefer having big sisters. I can’t wait to visit Gaelin over break when I go to New York; she’s been trying to convince me to go to college at NYU since the beginning of the year and I can’t help but wonder what it would be like.

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Character Sketch & Demo I made recently to highlight my process as it applies to shape design, digital painting, artistic process, and overall drawing and decision making. Illustration inspired by the always fashionable @AmeliaJetson from junebugsandgeorgiapeaches.com. You can watch it on YouTube here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkQnbpLHDHU 

I had a lot of fun making this so I’m hoping to post more demos and if I have time even tutorials. 

Fashion now pivots on a show of the personal and the sensitive, on feelings, values, an air of education, a sense of fine distinctions, and a great play of self-confidence and independence—on what is packaged commercially, in short, as the Quality Life. The increasingly estimable-looking camouflage that fashion is taking on makes the process of detecting its presence and influence infinitely more complex, and makes anyone seem churlish who takes issue with it once it is detected.
—  Kennedy Fraser, whose piece “The Fashionable Mind” ran in the magazine in 1978.
WHEN I MET LIFEINPUBLISHING

They say not to meet your heroes. They’re wrong and They can go fuck themselves.

I wouldn’t be writing this and you wouldn’t be reading it if, sixteen or so months ago, I hadn’t been tipped off about a Minimalist-layout Tumblr that posted funny shit about my industry. We publishing folk live on the internet, all of us from the lowliest inventory coordinator to the emeritussiest CEO; we tweet, we browse, we pin, and we don’t blink often enough.  That kind of life makes it hard to process things in a linear fashion. My emotions stick and flow after a day spent eyeballs-deep in screens of varying size; my skull’s full of tabbed thoughts and bookmarked feelings.

Which is why I started reading Life In Publishing with near-fanatical regularity. It was a break in the elevator music. It was incisive and funny, like a boxcutter made of chuckles. The reasons why GIF blogs multiply, and why they sustain internet people, aren’t mysteries;  GIF blogs are low-impact, they draw from an endless store of free and pre-made content, pluck our pop-culture nerves, and bundle smart and funny and silly into a neat little pill. And if you have nothing in common with someone, you may be able to bond over how you pronounce GIF.

Life In Publishing was, by definition, my sole inspiration to start this Tumblr. Anyone can grouse about their job. It takes a special person to make that grousing clickworthy. Unfortunately, that kind of exposure can stoke jealousy, and months after LiP’s semi-retirement from blogging, she got unfairly ousted from the bookternet by a bitter author whose identity we’ll never know, but who hopefully will lose his/her unlimited MetroCard 2 days into the month, step in a deceptively deep slush puddle, and then accidentally delete all of his/her month’s work when he/she accidentally erases his/her hard drive in a freak refrigerator magnet mishap.

But much like Obi-Wan Kenobi, or possibly Mariah Carey, you can never kill Life in Publishing. Yours truly and the dozens, nay hundreds of others who carve out their small grottoes in the bookternet know that to be true.

And so it was to my endless delight that she agreed to meet me, a few weeks after her sudden and heart-numbing exit from the bookternet, for a drink. Okay, technically, 5 drinks in 2 hours. On an empty stomach. So I’m a little hazy on the specifics.

But.

She misses all of you. She thinks you’re great. She was floored with all the support you guys provided in the form of notes and thank you’s and condolences. She has good taste in beer. And I’m proud to call her an internet friend.

These are shit years. You’re smothered by data and somehow everyone knows your pressure points, you’re kneecapped by issues ex- and intrinsic (and sometimes ex-related), alternately bored and balancing-on-the-lip-of-an-existential-chasm, and waiting for the Something to happen, and slowly realizing it may not happen, or it may manifest as a litter of little Somethings, half of which die before they grow fur and open their eyes.

But these are great years. There’s food that people spend time in long lines for, and some of it’s good. There’s the weird and wonderful history of Central Park. There’s the Lego Movie. There’s babies tasting lemons.

So keep blogging. Make friends. Reach out. Stay hydrated. And open your windows all the way, it’s spring for the next week and a half. 

And finally, one last post from LiP:

WHEN LIFEINPUBLISHING AND DUDEINPUBLISHING MET FOR DRINKS

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I actually really wanted to use this gif but couldn’t think how that would in any way fit…

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happy friday! welcome to part five of eight of the in your atmosphere holiday drabble series. you’re all the loveliest little peaches and i wish i could squeeze each and every one of you. or bake you cookies. or your dessert/food of choice. i can’t cook so i would genuinely go the dessert route. i digress, i love you all very very much and am wishing you a great weekend. lots and lots of love shall be sent your way, my fairy sugarplums! catch up on the previous four parts here!

spring 2023 - gucci and temperley london

“I think I could look at wedding pictures all day long,” Eva said, her fingers gliding over the glossy pages of the scrapbook. She spent the better part of her weekend transforming the last batch of photos from their photographer into the final part of their wedding scrapbooks. There was a digital album, of course, but Harry wasn’t in any position to stop Eva from putting her creativity to good use. What he did with words in the studio with the lads, Eva put onto paper with pens and pencils and mass amounts of decorative paper.

She started the last book when she got home from the office on a Friday night and didn’t stop until Sunday morning when she nearly knocked over her coffee at the breakfast table with Harry, so excited about the finishing touch she had put on the final page. It was endearing, really, watching Eva in her creative element. There were so many little things that Harry loved about Eva and he was lucky enough to be able to see some of them every single day.

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