the people's history of costume

The Eurovision Crash Course.

Made by an American for other Americans.

So if you have European internet friend or follow blogs run by Europeans, chances are you’ll be come across a lot posts about Eurovision

But what exactly is Eurovision?

I’m sure you’ve already gotten a lot of sarcastic answers, so here’s a quick free crash course in this crazy cultural phenomenon.

It’s a super hardcore song contest that began in 1956 as a way to unite Europe. It began with about seven countries back when TV was just starting to become a thing. It has since expanded to included most of Europe and a number neighboring countries.

Oh, and as of 2015, Australia is one of the contestants too. And it’s one of the most widely watched non-sporting events ever. But never ask a European why America hasn’t been invited. There’s a fairly high chance they’d rather die than have us there to ruin it.

Okay, that’s cool and all, but how exactly does it work?

So each country sends a representative, and people vote for the best. But you can’t vote for your own country. But I’m really not sure if people-voting even matters because each country has a jury that awards points to other countries, and it’s those points that determine who wins Eurovision. Most points wins.

That’s why things can get political, even though it’s not supposed to and Eurovision was founded on the idea of unity. And why it’s possible for song to win the public televote but not the actual contest.

Now! For video examples!

The 10 most recent winners of the Eurovision Song Contest (2007 - 2016)

  • Pretty self-explanatory. Gives an adequate beginner’s taste of Eurovision performances in general. Showcases genre variety, goofiness, and a poop ton of confetti.

The Story of ESC

  • Again, pretty self-explanatory. It’s literally just learning about Eurovision: theatrical music-number style!

How to create the perfect Eurovision Performance | Tutorial

  • A bit of a satirical piece. Fun fact: every goofy thing you see on stage is a reference to an actual performance
  • And yes, the main people singing are the same singers as the other video.
  • Important references that the song makes are linked below for your convenience.

The main guy singing won for Sweden in 2015. His performance also includes dancing with cartoons!

The violin guy won for Norway in 2009. He has one of the highest final scores in Eurovision history. He’s also super talented and I love him.

The people in demon costumes won for Finland in 2006. Their song was literally called “Hard Rock Hallelujah.”

Austria set a piano on fire in 2015. And then just left it there. (It starts burning about two minutes into the song.)

Grandmas baking bread. Believe it or not, they got second!

Russia had an famous gold-medalist ice skater onstage in 2008.

And yes, that is a hamster wheel.

…you get the point. If I keep going, this list would carry on forever.

Also! Some of my personal favorites:

Again, I could go on forever, but…you know. Although, if you want more song recommendations, feel free to message me!

(Also, if you’re European and reading this, please don’t kill me. Instead, tell me how I did? And feel free to link your favorite entries too!)

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First ratified quad jumps in international competition:

Quad toe loop: Kurt Browning (CAN), 1988 World Championships FS
Quad salchow: Timothy Goebel (USA), 1998 Jr. Champion Series Final
Quad lutz: Brandon Mroz (USA), 2011 NHK Trophy SP
Quad flip: Shoma Uno (JPN), 2016 Team Challenge Cup SP
Quad loop: Yuzuru Hanyu (JPN), 2016 Autumn Classic International SP

The Calendar of Karyukai Celebrations

On the 11th Day of Fun I present… a calendar! Every time there’s a new even going on there’s always questions about what it is and why it’s happening, so to save some time he’s a handy chart of who celebrates what and when.

January

Shin Aisatsu (新挨拶) - First greetings of the new year. All maiko and geiko dress in kuromontsuki and pay their respects to the local okiya and ochaya.
Kamishichiken: January 4th
Pontocho: January 4th
Miyagawa Cho: January 5th
Gion Higashi: January 6th
Gion Kobu: January 7th

Shigyōshiki (始業式) - Commencement ceremony for the new year. The most popular maiko and geiko are given awards as are the most studious.
Gion Kobu, Pontocho, Miyagawa Cho, Gion Higashi: January 7th
Kamishichiken: January 9th

Hatsu Ebisu (初ゑびす) - Maiko hand out lucky bamboo at the Ebisu Shrine.
Gion Kobu and Miyagawa Cho: January 11th

Hatsuyori (初寄り) - Formal New Year’s greetings by maiko and geiko. All will be dressed in iromontsuki and pay their respects to the establishments in their neighbourhood
Gion Kobu: January 13th



February
Setsubun (節分) - Traditional start of the lunar new year celebrated on fixed days (February 2nd-4th). Maiko and geiko will perform at their local shrines and toss out packages of lucky beans after their performance
Gion Kobu, Pontocho, Miyagawa Cho, Gion Higashi: Yasaka Shrine
Kamishichiken: Kitano Tenmangu Shrine
Miyagawa Cho: 5 Maiko in Kuromontsuki - February 2nd
Pontocho: 2 Maiko - February 2nd
Gion Kobu: 3 Senior Maiko - February 3rd
Gion Higashi: 5 Maiko - February 3rd
Kamishichiken: 4 Maiko, 2 Geiko - February 3rd

Obake (お化け) - Similar to Western Halloween, geiko dress up and perform skits for their customers. The costumes were originally meant to confuse spirits.
All Hanamachi: February 2nd-4th

Baikasai (梅花祭) - The plum festival at the Kitano Tenmangu Shrine. Maiko and geiko will hold a special outdoor tea ceremony.
Kamishichiken: February 25th



March
Hina Nagashi (雛流し) - Girls’ Day festival at Shimogamo Shrine. Three maiko will say a prayer and set small floating baskets onto the river. 
Miyagawa Cho: March 3rd 

Higashiyama Hanatōro (東山花灯路) - Spring dedication dances by two maiko at Yasaka Shrine.
Gion Kobu: March 13th
Kamishichiken: March 14th
Pontocho: March 15th
Miyagawa Cho: March 20th
Gion Higashi: March 21st

Oishi Ki (大石忌) - Maiko and geiko gather at the Ichiriki to pay tribute to Oishi, leader of the 47 Ronin, who plotted his revenge at the ochaya. Yachiyo Inoue will perform a special dance.
Gion Kobu: March 20th 

Kitano Odori (北野をどり) - Annual spring dance by the maiko and geiko of Kamishichiken at the Kamishichiken Kaburenjo. Runs March 25th to April 7th.

Gion Shirakawa Yoizakura  (祇園白川酔桜) - Two maiko or a maiko and geiko are chosen to pose for photographs in front of the cherry blossoms along the Shirakawa River.
Gion Kobu, Miyagawa Cho, and Gion Higashi: March 31st and April 1st



April
Miyako Odori (都をどり) - Annual spring dance by the maiko and geiko of Gion Kobu. Runs April 1st to 30th at the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo. In 2017 it will be at the Shunjuza and will run from April 1st to 23rd with no performances on April 10th or 17th due to renovations at the kaburenjo.

Kyō Odori (京をどり) - Annual spring dance by the maiko and geiko of Miyagawa Cho at the Miyagawa Kaburenjo. Runs April 1st to 20th.

Reitaisai Hono Būyo Matsuri (平安神宮例大祭奉納舞踊) - Dedication dances at the Heian Shrine on April 16th.
Gion Kobu: 2 or 3 Maiko
Pontocho: 2 Maiko
Miyagawa Cho: 5 Maiko
Gion Higashi: 4 Maiko

Oreimairi (お礼参り) - Giving thanks at a local shrine after the completion of an odori. 
Kamishichiken: April 8th
Miyagawa Cho: April 21st



May
Miyako Odori Shūryō Hōgoku Matsuri (都をどり終了奉告祭) - Maiko and geiko of Gion Kobu giving thanks for a successful odori.
Gion Kobu: May 1st

Kamogawa Odori (鴨川をどり) - Annual spring dance by the maiko and geiko of Pontocho at the Pontocho Kaburenjo. Runs from May 1st to 24th.

Kanki Inari Shrine Blessing (観亀稲荷神社例祭) - Maiko and geiko pray for continued blessings and serve sake at the Kanki Inari Shrine.
Gion Higashi: May 13th.

Oreimairi (お礼参り) - Pontocho maiko and geiko give thanks after the Kamogawa Odori on May 25th.



June
Gion Hojoe Festival (祇園放生会) - Two maiko release fish into the Shirakawa River from the Tatsumi Bridge to show appreciation for all life.
Gion Kobu: June 3rd

Miyako No Nigiwai (都の賑わい) - Joint performance of all five kagai on June 23rd and 24th.



July
Gion Matsuri (祇園祭) - Massive festival where the gods who are enshrined at the Yasaka Shrine are brought out to celebrate with the people. Runs from July 1st to 24th and has various events during this period.

Miyabi Kai (みやび会)
- All maiko and geiko of Gion Kobu dress in identical yukata and pray at the Yasaka Shrine with their dance teachers for continued success.
Gion Kobu: July 7th

Hanagasa Junko (花笠巡行) - Maiko and geiko attend a parade at the end of the Gion Matsuri where they will perform at the shrine upon the commencement of the parade.
Gion Higashi Maiko and Pontocho Geiko: July 24th (Rotating Years)
Gion Kobu Maiko and Miyagawa Cho Maiko: July 24th (Rotating Years)

Yukata Kai (ゆかた会) - Maiko and geiko perform with musical instruments or vocal accompaniments while wearing yukata.
Miyagawa Cho: July 15th
Gion Higashi: July 31st



August
Hassaku (八朔) - Maiko and geiko pay respects to their teachers and local establishments. Gion Kobu maiko and geiko will dress in kuromontsuki while all other districts will wear casual komon or iromuji.
All Kagai: August 1st



September
Takasegawa Boat Festival (高瀬川舟まつり) - Two maiko participate in a blessing for the boats that traverse the Takasegawa Canal and perform a tea ceremony afterwards.
Pontocho: September 22nd or 23rd



October
Onshūkai (温習会) - Annual fall dance by the maiko and geiko of Gion Kobu at the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo from October 1st to 6th.

Zuiki Matsuri (ずいき祭) - Maiko and geiko stand outside of their okiya to watch the procession of the Zuiki Matsuri parade.
Kamishichiken: October 4th

Mizuekai (みずゑ会) - Annual fall dance by the maiko and geiko of Miyagawa Cho at the Miyagawa Kaburenjo from October 6th to 9th.

Kotobukai (寿会) - Annual fall dance by the maiko and geiko of Kamishichiken at the Kamishichiken Kaburenjo from October 8th to 12th.

Jidai Matsuri (時代祭) - Maiko and geiko from two different kagai participate on a rotating basis in a festival that celebrates the 1,300 year history of the people and costumes of Japan.
Rotating Kagai: October 22nd

Suimeikai (水明会) - Annual fall dance by the maiko and geiko of Pontocho at the Pontocho Kaburenjo from October 27th to 30th.



November
Gion Odori (祇園をどり) - Annual dance by the maiko and geiko of Gion Higashi at the Gion Higashi Kaburenjo from November 1st to 10th. 

Nishijin Obi and Kimono Festival (きもので集う園遊会) - Maiko and geiko hold an outdoor tea ceremony at the Kamigamo Shrine to celebrate the beautiful works of the Nishijin Weaving District.
Kamishichiken: November 3rd

Kanikakunisai (かにかくに祭) - A geiko and three maiko will offer flowers in front of the monument inscribed with the poem “Kanikakuni” by Isamu Yoshi.
Gion Kobu: November 8th

Gion Kouta Festival (祇園小唄祭) - Two maiko offer flowers and recite the Gion Kouta in front of a monument in Maruyama Park.
All Kagai: November 23rd



December
Kaomise Soken (顔見世素見) - Maiko and geiko view the first performances of the kabuki year at the Minamiza Theatre.
All Kagai: December 1st to 5th (Rotating Schedule) 

Kotohajime (事始め) - Maiko and geiko visit their dance teachers and offer them new year’s gifts while receiving a new fan.
All Kagai: December 13th.

Okotosan (お事多うさん) - Maiko and geiko will go around to various ochaya and say “Okotosandesu!” at the entrance and are greeted by the okasan and given pink and white kusudama.
Gion Kobu and Miyagawa Cho: December 30th

Okera Mairi (おけら詣り) - Maiko and geiko will light a special rope with the flame from the okerabi and bring it back to their homes for luck in the new year.
Gion Kobu and Miyagawa Cho: December 31st

Edit: This list is now available in its own tab called “Calendar of Events

The People’s History of Costume…

Ojibwa, Ontario, Canada, (ca. 1789.)

Native leather, rawhide, pigment, porcupine quills, glass beads, and deer hair, 48-7/8 x 27-5/8", Gift of Ned Jalbert in honor of the 75th anniversary of The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art and funds from the exchange of William Rockhill Nelson Trust properties, 2008.

nour386  asked:

I saw your response about teens in the 50's, 60's and 70's and I was wondering, do you have any resources about how Children-teens lived/dressed in 1900-1910's?

Of course! Here’s what I could find: 

Hope that helps!

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If You Love It, It Will Survive!

 1940s FRENCH PATCHED WORK TROUSERS

Dating from the 1940s these vintage French made classic work trousers are made from a strong twill weave plain weave flecked mid-weight cotton. Have softened beautiful with age and hang very well as a result. Gentle colour fade from sun exposure with lots of unique repair with large areas of intricate patched repair work of contrasting fabrics, by both machine and hand and covered in artful areas of darning. All adding to the antiquated charm of this lot. Two opposing button closure at waist with three buttons closing the fly. All buttons are made from plastic and a few appear to have been replaced at some point. Five belt loops on the waistband. Front pleats and darts at the rear for a great shape. Two angled seam pockets, with one button close single welt pocket at the rear all with bar tacking at the stress points. Tapered, straight leg, can easily be worn as a contemporary piece. A very charming lot due to the extensive repair work. Other areas of wear are present with some ingrained marks, unstitched hems, small holes and loose threads

available on Ebay.com

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The People’s History of Costume…

1930s FRENCH HANDMADE PEASANT OVERCOAT

Here we have a very unique piece. A French handmade wool coat that was, for whatever reason, unfinished. Quite naively made in parts, all adding to the charm. As it’s not been finished it’s hard to tell if it was intended to be worn by a man or a woman, however I think it could be worn by either. A very nice course fabric, plain weave with contrasting brown wool. Pointed lapels. No buttons or button holes have been put in, however some naive loops have been added. Looks fine worn open. Two angled double welt pockets that close with a metal popper button, lined in a strong cotton drill. Gently pleated shoulders. Two sewn in darts at the back, which are coming loose. Nice curved seams giving the garment a nice tailored fit. Unlined, sleeves lined in silk or satin, however are only sewn into the cuffs and are loose and not connected to the shoulders/underarm. A very charming piece

available on Ebay.com