Absinthia: Green Fairy Eye Tutorial

Meet 2013’s Color of the Year. Emerald.

There was a phase in my life when I wore NOTHING but green eyeshadow. I just thought it was such a sexy and flattering alternative to a neutral for smoky eyes. Some good options include MAC Humid or a discontinued pigment called Green. (I used that for this tutorial because I still have my large 7.5g jar from years ago, but use Humid or Antique Green pigment if you don’t have it.)

I also added a touch of golden lime (MAC Golden Olive pigment) and a deep emerald green glitter called Capricorn. Now, in direct light, this glitter looks like a straight dark emerald green, but when the light shifts or when you’re in the shade, it has a teal-blue shift. That’s probably my favorite glitter out of the Zodiac range from Lime Crime, but a regular green would work anyday.

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Teal Painted Eyes and Glorious Colored Lashes

I generally don’t love colored lashes because most look kinda tacky, if I may say. But this pair looks SO good worn with those crazy teal-painted lids! 

(Actually, I think the teal-painted lids look good all on their own with the strong black liner and subtle contouring at the inner and outer corners, so I might give this look a try one of these days!)

You’ll probably get the best effect foiling a strong aqua/teal green pigment or shadow and packing it over a white cream base.

[Photo source: http://www.lip-gloss-pictures.com]

Big Deep Blue: Smoky, Colorful Party Eye (good for brown eyes and mono-lids)

Deep, rich-blue eye shadows tend to remind me of the 80’s, and regulation flight stewardess makeup. (Dear SIA, you know I’m talking about you…)

Well, this is the anti-thesis of that type of blue eye.

The key item you need to get this look is a glimmering blue-violet shadow that looks blue but shifts to a violet. The most well-known of these is MAC Cornflower pigment of course. I have not yet seen pressed shadows in this exact shade or finish, but some dupes or subtitutes in loose powder form are:

  • L'oreal HIP pigment in Valiant (exact match and more affordable, but it’s not sold in every country)
  • NYX Ultra Mania Pearl in Space (goes on lighter and more blue, and is less sparkly than Cornflower)
  • Barry M Sapphire (close, but not as shiny, and needs a good base or it will dust off or look uneven)

Step 1: Dampen a brush slightly with a little mixing medium (I used MAC Fix+) before applying the loose blue-violet pigment across your lids from lashes up just past the socket line. This gives maximum color intensity and also helps to bring out the sheen of the pigment. This is especially important if you are using very silky and fine-grained dusts like Barry M, which do not contain silicones or lipid fillers to help the pigments stick to your skin. 

Run what little remains on your brush along the outer 2/3 of the lower lash line as well.

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Step 2: Dab your brush very lightly in a matte black shadow and darken the outer corners of your eyes. It’s best to start light, and slowly build up. Continue to gently buff and smoke out the black as you go along, until it extends in a very slight wing outwards. (Don’t overdo this, or bring the black too far inwards or you will muddy the bright indigo pigment from earlier!)

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Step 3: Add a teal green pigment in the innermost corners just to add a bit more color to the look. You can skip this and just use the cornflower-blue shade all the way to the inner corners at Step 1, but I wanted a more colorful effect.

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Step 4: Run a black kajal or kohl pencil along your water line and tide line, and then curl lashes and apply black mascara.

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Extra Touches:

  • When you work with loose pigments, you will get a lot of fallout under the eyes (look at pics from Step 2 and 3). You want to do the rest of your makeup AFTER your eye shadow, or at least don’t set anything with powder yet, so that you can use your foundation brush (with residual concealer and/or foundation on it) to pick up and remove any fallen bits of blue and black.
  • Before mascara, you may want to go over the center of the lids with one more lightly dampened layer of the blue-violet to intensify the color since it might have faded from all the blending.
  • Finish by misting your face with a setting spray (Model in a Bottle, MAC Fix+, or any non-alcoholic toner will do), just to make sure no pigments flake off onto your face later. 

As this is a strong and  eye, the most flattering way to finish this look is to pair with soft blush and lip color to finish!

Ondine (Featuring Everyday Minerals “Tide is High” Shadow)

Ondine was a water nymph who gave up her immortality for love, but was eventually betrayed by her faithless husband. In vengeance, she cursed him so that he would cease breathing if he ever fell asleep. The story has no happy end, but the mythological figure has always been one of dark and elemental beauty for me.

This is in a small way related to the movie of the same name (although I enjoyed it). The bleak and harsh beauty of the Irish landscape and the haunting atmosphere and music did partly inspire the choice of colors and an eye look that’s equal parts dreamy shades and heavy shapes.

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Everyday Minerals Tide is High (Shimmer), and Make Up Store Moss (Microshadow)

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Step 1: First, pack a sea green shade all over the lids.

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Step 2: With a matte, dark mossy shade, sweep thickly along the lower lids and into the outer corners of the upper lids. 

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Step 3: This is where the look gets a little heavier. Sweep the moss shade along the entire socket line and smoke upwards and out for more drama, but don’t wing it out as the eye should remain “round” so it does not look overly fierce.

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Step 4: As a twist to keep the lash line from getting too dark and obscuring the intensity of the color, I used a metallic teal pencil along the water and lash lines (Bourjois Metallise #87Vert eclatant). Then I curled my lashes and applied black mascara to top and bottom lashes.

Leave out false lashes as you don’t want to detract from the colors and textures.

Other products used:

  • NYX Angel Blush (pale-pale peach pearl)
  • Estee Lauder Crystal Baby (not shown)
  • I didn’t have time to change my nail color, but I’d recommend a flesh or sand-colored shade instead of the mauve I wore (Couleur Inc #69 Ara)

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