While at work his weekend, I was kinda hoping to get the whole top done, but I didn’t get that far.
I was mentally exhausted and didn’t want to do much.
But Saturday was actually a pretty productive day, and I wanted to get at least one sleeve finish or mostly finished to see how it would look, and I dare say I love it. The rich blue with the gold thread and sequins and red beads is so lovely.
I used tailors chalk to draw on the pattern, and it dusted away as I sewed over it.
I didn’t have any gold trim to put onto the cuff, so that was left unfinished, but I did sew bias tape to the top to finish it off and give it a cleaner look when it’s sewn to the bodice part.
I really took my time with this and did a fair amount of hand sewing; the embellishments are all hand sewn too. I just want to take my time and care with making something so beautiful and giving it the justice it deserves.
Using a standard unisex T-shirt that is about one-two sized larger than your size can be used as a base for another way to drape darts or move the excess fabric into different styles. This is a method that can be done using a model form or on your own body!! (I do recommend if you are wearing the t-shirt to have the undergarment on that you will be wearing with the cosplay.) Helps to get a more accurate fit! First I will start by showing how to make standard double-ended darts using a T-shirt. Using this same technique you can make many types of darts.
Standard unisex shirt in a size one-two sizes larger, sewing pins/safety pins, marker/tailors chalk, large piece of paper, scissors, pencil, ruler
^ 1. You want to work both sides at the same time. taking in a little on each side as you go. Don’t make it too tight, the excess fabric around the waist will be used to make darts (or seams).
^ 2. Taking the excess fabric, pinch equally at the placement of your darts/seams.
^ 3. Front darts are meant to tighten the excess fabric, there are many ways to utilize them. They end about 1/4”- 1/2” down from the bust point (unless you want Madonna points). Darts leading down past the waist end at the hip, typically about 3”-4” past the waistline.
^ 4. Repeat process for back. Back darts work similar to front, top ends point to the largest part of the chest, and the bottom ends are about 3-4” from the waist
^ 5. Once all pins are in place, use tailors chalk or a marker to draw over the newly made sections, marking each side of the darts, and at each side of your new side seams. Make notes for all markers like waist line along the sides and at each side of your dart, bust point, ends of darts top and bottom.
^ 6. While wearing the t-shirt, draw your neckline and armholes. Be sure to mark for matching up front and back at shoulder seams and at the side seams.
^ 7. Now you are ready to transfer to paper! Carefully take the garment off, trying to keep all pins attached, it is okay if you lose some in the process. I like to go through and re mark on front and back with a sharpie the: bust point, dart points, waist at front and back sides as well as at each side of your dart, where the front and back pieces at the shoulder and under the arm. You only need half of the front and half of the back to complete the pattern.
Now you are ready to remove the pins, SEE second picture. Once pins have been removed, make a long line down the center front and center back. Label which side is front and which is back.
^ 8. Cut the shirt apart at the side seams following the lines you drew, and at the shoulders along the t-shirt’s seam line. Trace around the pieces, transfer all your marks and notes. After you have the outer edges, transfer the four dart points you marked: top, bottom, and at the waist on each side of the excess of the fabric. This will create your dart.
^ 9. Create your sewing guide lines, connecting the four points of the dart. This will make a diamond shape.
^ 10. Finishing touches!! Add seam allowance to all of your edges. For this example, the front is on a fold a center front, which doesn’t need any seam allowance. Back will have a zipper, which needs a larger amount of seam allowance. I highly suggest making a mock up with your new pattern pieces to test fit for any adjustments.
Whoo!! This turned out longer than I thought it would, hope it makes sense and helps out. Happy Patterning and Sewing!!!
if ur making patches invest in some tailor's chalk/white chalk to help draw ur designs on ur fabric, makes sure ur using embroidery floss not regular thread bc it's thicker and holds better, iron-on backing paper + sewing the patch on = no risk of it coming off, and if u scotch guard them they'll retain colour and won't get dirty as easy!
These are just a FEW of the basic tools that are super handy to have while sewing. Being a poor student myself I too cannot afford every tool I may want, so work with what you have.
Scissors & Cutting Tools:
Yeah, you can just use one pair of average scissors, but these four pairs are so worth the money and extra-ordinarily great at what they do.
1. Fabric scissors= only ever use these for cutting fabric and nothing else! They generally are angled for easier cutting and have little teeth to keep everything in place for a smooth cut.
2. Regular paper scissors= for cutting out patterns.
3. Embroidery scissors= these tiny pointy scissors are wonderful for snipping off threads and are ideal for cutting button holes.
4. Pinking shears= these have a zig zag edge that help finish raw edges on fabrics that fray. Often one can use these rather than a zigzag stitch on a raw edge, though both methods work well.
5. Seam Ripper= the most essential thing ever, when you mess up this may save your project. It has a sharp curved hook to open seams and cut stitches.
Measuring and Marking Tools
Tailors Chalk/Dressmakers pencil: Stop using a pen or pencil on your fabric! These are super cheap and leave non-permanent marks. Perfect for marking pleats, darts, fine lines, or even guidelines for cutting.
Sewing Gauge: Again, very cheap, you can buy this at walmart for 2$. It has a sliding tab perfect to mark even lines and making even hems and pleats.
Measuring tape: Good for getting your own measurements as well as for pattern drafting.
Machine Needles: Come in a variety of sizes for different fabrics. Switch your needle if it becomes dull or bent.
Hand Sewing Needles: Great for hand stitching, also come in a variety of sizes for different fabrics.
That is all! Later this week I will post about the sewing lingo and what the heck it means. Be sure to follow to keep up with these tutorials and find them all at sewcute.tumblr.com/tagged/basics_of_sewing