surftrip

Its all about taking care of yourself!

Als Surfer hat man eine ganz besondere Bindung zu seinem Surfboard. Der eine hegt und pflegt es mit voller Hingabe, der andere baut seinem Surfbrett die perfekte Wanhalterung um es auch in den heimischen vier Wänden immer im Blick zu haben und wieder andere reden ihrem Board vor der Surfsession gut zu. Aber was ist eigentlich mit dir?

Wer kennt es nicht? Du freust dich ewig auf den nächsten Surftrip aber vor allem auf die nächste Surfsession. Dann ist es endlich so weit, du hattest die Session seines Lebens, aber auch den Sonnenbrand deines Lebens und alle langhaarigen Surfer kennen wahrscheinlich auch das “Aftersurf Haarchaos”. 

Deshalb habe ich in diesem Blogpost ein paar Tipps für dich wie du lästige Probleme beim Surfen vermeiden kannst!


Sonnenproblem 

Wer war nicht schon mal in traumhaft tropischen Wellen surfen und konnte am nächsten Tag kaum auf dem Brett sitzen, weil man sich den Hintern verbrannt hat. Vor allem die Mädels unter uns kennen wahrscheinlich das Problem (das den Männern wahrscheinlich um so mehr Freude bereitet) wenn die Bikinihose so verrutscht, dass man quasi im String surft und der Hintern somit permanent von der Sonne bestrahlt wird.

Aber auch die Jungs kennen wahrscheinlich das miese Gefühl von brennender Haut an Stellen von denen man dachte, sie werden nicht von der Sonne bestrahlt. 

Und selbst bei einer Surfsession im schönen Europa bleibst du ohne die richtige Vorsorge nicht vom Sonnenbrand verschont. 


Deshalb mein Tipp Nr. 1

Creme dich immer schon am Morgen direkt nach dem Aufstehen ein. So wird das Eincremen wie der Kaffee am Morgen zur Routine und du vergisst es nicht! Besonders wichtig in tropischen Gebieten bzw. Gebieten in denen du im Bikini oder in der Boardshort ins Wasser gehst, creme dich ein, bevor du dich anziehst und zwar einmal komplett und überall! So beugst du die Gefahr vor Stellen zu vergessen oder Sonnenbrand besonders an den Nähten deiner Badeklamotten zu bekommen. 

Was die Sonnencreme angeht, schwöre ich auf Sun Bum! Sun Bum kommt allerdings aus den USA und gibt es leider auch hauptsächlich nur dort zu kaufen. 

Quelle Bild: http://shop.trustthebum.com

Aber auch in der heimischen Drogerie findet man Sonnencreme, die sich für den nächsten Surftrip eignet. Und zwar Baby- und Kindersonnencreme! Am besten finde ich persönlich die von Hipp! Das tolle an Babysonnencreme ist nämlich, dass dort kein Mist drin ist und sie wesentlich länger hält und weniger verrutscht als Sportsonnencreme! 

Quelle Bild: www.hipp.de

Fürs Gesicht nutze ich übrigens entweder das Zink von Sun Bum oder die Zinkpaste, die ich im örtlichen Surfshop finde. Dabei achte ich aber darauf, dass keine Parabene oder sonstiger Mist enthalten sind.  Aber auch die Babysonnencreme von Hipp eignet sich super als Surfsonnencreme fürs Gesicht.


Weiter gehts mit Tipp Nr. 2

Zieh dich an! Ich weiß, gerade in Badewannen warmem Wasser ist man sehr verleitet sich sein Board zu schnappen und sich einfach im Bikini oder der Boardshort in die Fluten zu stürzen. Aber gerade bei brennender Sonne hilft ein Lycra oder ein 1mm Neo super! Ich persönlich liebe meinen 1 mm Neo von Billabong. Der hat vorne einen Reisverschluss so dass ich ihn, wenn mir zu warm wird, auch beim Surfen offen tragen kann. Durch die langen Arme schützt er mich super an Armen und Schultern vor der Sonne. 

Den Männern unter euch empfehle ich übrigens, zieh ein Lycra an! Das mag nicht so cool aussehen als wenn du deinen gestählten Körper so aufs Board schwingst, aber erspart dir am Ende des Tages das miese Gefühl von Sonnenbrand! 



Haarproblem

Wahrscheinlich kennen es vor allem die Mädels unter euch, aber wahrscheinlich auch die Jungs mit Surfermähne! Man kommt aus dem Wasser und die Haare sind das reinste Chaos. Heißt nach der Surfsession ist vor der Kämm Session. Man versucht jedes einzelne Haar von dem miesen Knotennest zu befreien. 

Dass es erst gar nicht so weit kommt, bzw. dass dir das Kämmen nach der Session leichter fällt, habe ich auch hier zwei, wie ich finde, super Tipps für dich! 


Tipp Nr. 1

Haaröl! Haaröl! Haaröl! Ich schwöre darauf! Ich habe das Haaröl in meine Sonnencreme Routine eingeschlossen. Heißt nach dem Aufstehen gibt es nach dem Eincremen für meine Haare erstmal eine ordentliche Portion Haaröl! 

Auch hier stehe ich total auf das von Sun Bum. Aber vor kurzem bin ich auch auf den Geschmack von Arganöl gekommen. Am besten finde ich hier übrigens die HASK von “Argan Oil from Morocco”. Die kleinen Fläschchen sind zudem super praktisch weil sie quasi in jedem Reisegepäck Platz haben.

Von Kokosnussöl rate ich persönlich für den Gebrauch im Haar zum Surfen ab. Einfach aus dem Grund, weil sich die Konsistenz von Kokosnussöl durch die kältere Wassertemperatur verändert und dann nicht mehr so den Sinn erfüllt wie andere Öle. 

Quelle Bild: www.dm.de / http://shop.trustthebum.com


Tipp Nr. 2 

Benutze anstelle einer Bürste einen Kamm um deine Haare direkt nach der Session von lästigen Knoten zu befreien. Mit der Bürste wird den Knoten nur weiter nach unten gekämmt und du sorgst so dafür, dass sich der Knoten nur noch weiter zuzieht. Der Kamm allerdings löst den Knoten und somit dein Haarproblem. Ich selbst benutze inzwischen einen grobgezinkten Kamm aus Holz. So einen findest du eigentlich in jeder gut sortierten Drogerie.  


Und jetzt wünsche ich dir ganz viel Spaß bei deiner nächsten Surfsession mit einer hoffentlich super Surfroutine!

Mir ist übrigens sehr wichtig, dass du weisst, dass ich dir die ganzen Produkte aus reiner Überzeugung empfehle, weil ich sie selbst benutze. Es besteht mit keiner der genannten Marken eine Kooperation oder ähnliches. 


Hang Loose!

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THE LIFE OF INDONESIA

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Uma questão de escolha…

🌊 Tucuns - Búzios
📷 @danielsancf
🔭 @renato_rls78

#AS #amantesdosurf #SS #surfsempre #surfbr #surface #surftrip #surfboards #surfamor #surfing #surfer #oss

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OWEN WRIGHT AND STEPHANIE GILMORE WIN QUIKSILVER AND ROXY PRO GOLD COAST
- WRIGHT MAKES INSPIRING RETURN TO COMPETITION WITH VICTORY OVER WILKINSON
- 6X WSL CHAMPION GILMORE DEFEATS PETERSON TO CLAIM 6TH ROXY PRO TITLE AND JEEP LEADER JERSEY
- HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE QUIKSILVER AND ROXY PRO GOLD COAST AVAILABLE AT WORLDSURFLEAGUE.COM

COOLANGATTA, Queensland/AUS (Sunday, March 19, 2017) - Owen Wright (AUS) and Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) claimed victory today at the Quiksilver and Roxy Pro Gold Coast, the opening stop on the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour (CT), in four-to-six foot (1 - 2 m) waves at the world-famous Snapper Rocks. An incredible finals day delivered two Australian event champions, and both Wright and Gilmore will take the coveted Jeep Leaders’ Jersey heading into the next event on the CT, the Drug Aware Margaret River Pro.

Photo📸: Stephanie Gilmore (AUS) and Owen Wright (AUS) emerged victorious today, claiming the Roxy and Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast titles.
Photo Credit📸: © WSL / Cestari /Sloane

For more information, check out WorldSurfLeague.com.

Source: @WSL worldsurfleague.com

Thank you Ocean ❤️
Tags for Surf Soup and Ocean Love ❤️💨
#oceanlover #Sustainablesurf #fitness #stoked #oceanhugger #surfsouptv #surf #surfing #surfer #surfboards #stoked #swell #training #roxypro #roxy #quikpro #australia #goldcoast #love #COOLANGATTA #queensland #quiksilver #beach #surftrip #wsl #🏄🏻 #snapperrocks #OWENWRIGHT #STEPHANIEGILMORE #MattWilkinson

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bester platz auf welt - erste welle zwei kleine barrels hintereinander gegen 50 leute im wasser.. morgen gibts n wochenend surftrip und dann auch ma wieder bilder nich von piha

Dear Crashpad Diary #27

WARNING: this post has some fucking good and important infos for you backpacker!! (in the end… but read it entirely =)

Holaaaaaaaaaa bichooooooos!! Que onda???¿¿?¿?¿?¿?

I hope all the most fantastic smiles and great vibes are coming towards you and making your life sweeeeet!! =)

Today I´m gonna write about life haha the life on the road… the life on the edge… a thug life!! hahahahah

So.. you´ll laugh loads with sea urchins, the biggest vacation of my life, cursed rooms, wild clothing and scams!! Well… the scam part will also help you to not lose money if you´re ever in Bali! hehe

Cool… where did I stop last post?? Oh… yep… we were in Koh Phangan… having fantastic times and so on… but you know… the time flies… or in our case… we enjoyed it floating around haha

And the time to leave came… we got another night boat… thinking that this one would be the same as the previous one… haha what a pity… haha we got to the pier and saw a huge one… like the size of one of those cruises… fancy ones… but not fancy… maybe same size… I thought… yep… thats prob it… The taxi driver pointed to another one… quite small… three-trucks sized… Oh well… it will be a bit more shaky but that was the only option…

We didn’t have any idea though that ours was actually behind it… a big pick up truck sized boat where we would sleep but you could not stand tall… cuz you´d hit your head on the ceiling hahahaha we crawled to our spot and actually felt cozy there haha it´s like our studio back in Ireland…. the difference was that we had a bigger window that in fact opens in that boat… and more important… it is not overpriced!! hahahaha

The overnite adventure brought us to Krabi, city from where we´d fly to Kuala Lumpur to, then, fly to Lombok… one of the Indonesian islands that are world wide know meccas for surfing!!

I wish I had learnt how to surf earlier on in life… cuz now life and the waves are beating me so hard that I only can keep thinking… resilience ma friend… resilience is the word!! hahahahahah Luh surfs already pretty well and it is beautiful seeing that… but myself uff… I used to say that he surfs and I suffer!! hahahah At least here the water is not cold at all so I can keep floating pretty confortahbe!! hahaha  

Anyways, we got a boat to bring us to a surf spot…. both of us with our boards and all that stuff… drink water… spit almost all… look back… spot a wave forming… start praying… I mean… paddling… fast fast fast… and… stand up!! enjoy… Look around with your chin up and your lungs full of joy…. hahahaha that should be me in a perfect world… In the real world I paddled when I shouldn’t… the wave threw me freaking down and I felt like inside a huge washing machine… hahaha

My bro looking that had seen it from quite far away, said that the fall was epic hahahaha when I emerged, one of the instructors asked me if I had an instructor and I said no… so he warned me sth like… Well… maybe its better if you go with the beginners!!! hahahahah I was trying to catch the bigger ones and didn’t work well I think!! hahaha Maybe next time I´ll bring my laundry… in case I get inside another washing machine!! hahahahaha

And… by the way… I managed to step in another sea urchin!! haha now my both feet have some sea parts!! haha

In Lombok we got to know that you must pay pretty much all the beaches you go… to park… they say it´s for the community… twas quite sad going to 5 different beaches to find waves, though… they won´t let you get in for checking and pay later, if you stay… even to check you must pay… uff…. one can get bankrupted going after waves here!!

At least the room we got was balancing the equation… we were spending with the beaches but saving on the room… twas cursed but twas fine haha The first night we woke up around 4am with a freakin loud noise…. I stood up thinking twas outside… went out and didn’t see shit… got back and realised that was the mirror… it fell of from the wall and broke… haha

But it does not stop there… the second night we woke up at the same time cuz the sink fell… haha the fucking sink!!! hahahaha On the third night we were talking and wondering what would fall that night… maybe the fan or the A/C?? And we both were laughing cuz twas a bit funny… and at that exact moment my bag of food that was placed steadily on the sink fell…… hahahahahah spooooooky!! hahahaha Happily nothing else fell off the next few days!! hahahah

From the sink, though, was coming a bad smell… we let the reception know the day after… they offered us a new room so they would fix it… I agreed straight away… a new room?? Fine!! My bro asked then the most important question (as usual he is the smart guy and is always wise!!)… Does the new room have A/C?

Yep… with the negative coming from the reception about the A/C, we said that we would stay with the broken one… fixed with finger tape (hell yeah… I put my climber´s skill to work again!! In your face phantom!! ahahahah)… and slept cool with the phantom in the cursed room!! hahahaha

Well… leaving on the edge these weird times here beasts!! haha

Few days in Lombok and we headed to Bali, where we will stay longer and surf more… but the first impressions are great… the surf is cool, the food is cheap, the accommodation is great and for a good price, they have good paramedics for my days of surf… the fashion, however, is ugly… not to say worse….  we were walking on the street and I saved my bro´s life as he was passing by a girl that was wearing a snake as a scarf…. an alive snake as a scarf!!! C´mon freaking lady… it is almost 40º C… tell me why in this world would you wear a scarf??? hahahahahhahaha

As the other places in the whole world, the drugs are on the street and wherever you´re walking someone will try to sell it… the hype here is to sell it saying: “Tours? Motorbikes? (whispering) Mushroom??”. hahahaha

But by far the best experience here was bugging the guy that was trying to scam us!!

The thing works like this… they put the rate higher than the real one… the tourists will grab the opportunity right?! yep… they get the money… start counting in front of you… and then they´ll ask you some change to make it “full”… while you take the change, they drop like half of the notes back…. you give´em the change and… normally the tourists will not count it again… will put inside the bag/pocket and leave…

We realized that on the second time we changed… and checking the money we exchanged before we confirmed that those fuckers shortened us in 10 €… 

well… at least not too bad… cuz the following days we tried to exchange again and all of them were trying to cut us out in at least 50€ every single time!! But every time they realized that we were counting the money one last time before leaving, they would come with many stories like: “oh… I forgot to add my commission” or “I´m not gonna exchange for you” not giving any explanation… and aborting mission suddenly….

That happened at least 5 times… but the best one was one guy that asked me if I had some change to make the amount rounded… I said yes but kept counting and recounting and he kept dropping and dropping the money… hahahah like a game hehe and he was losing it… that bastard!! haha

In the end, he came with the idea that he was confused and he would not exchange and bla bla bla… haha so we put our money back and we were about to leave… he got his many notes and started putting them back… saying: Oh… you forgot to take this… showing few notes that were aside… hahaha That was his money he had separated as part of our transaction… hahaha I let him know that was his money and we left laughing a lot as we bugged the scammer… the guy gave us money but we did not take as it is not fair right!? hahahahahhaah

As my last paragraph of this post I´d like to give yous an idea on how you can avoid these scams when exchanging money!!

I´ll throw some actions but it´s always good to check with a trustful local too!! I´m also increasing the number of measures hehe

- Always consider sketchy if the rate is higher than the market´s one
- never give your notes before getting yours
- don´t let them take your notes away from your sight, cuz they can replace them with fake ones
- always count the money in front of them, before leave
- if possible, go with a second person (I can borrow my brother if you want… he´s already a pro money exchanger), as you both can keep your eyes on the transaction, or the scam
- if you fell in a scam, well… learn from the mistake!!
- unless you are exchanging in a real bank branch or money exchange place, you should never handle them your IDs…
- last but not least don´t go to hidden places…
- until they prove otherwise, everyone wants to fool you, when you are exchanging money!!! hehe

Sweet… that was it… We are having awesome times here and these experiences have been enriching our lives unmeasurably!!

I really hope that this text has brought something got into your life… =)

Loads of smiles and good vibes from the beautiful and warm Bali!!

Cheers,

Evan

ps… new pics over my Flickr >> https://www.flickr.com/photos/e-supertramp/albums/72157678592658452

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Always dreamed of surfing the Maldives? We have two spots left on our all-girls surf charter in October, so why not make your dreams a reality?! 🌴🏄☀️
Need more info? >> LINK IN BIO <<

Surfer~ @tara_surf on our 2015 trip
Footage📽~ @goproanz
Music~ @amysharkmusic

#ssgmag #surflikeagirl #surfergirl #surfgirl #surfer #surfing #maldives #girlsonly #surftrip @surfmud @dhdsurf @ctrlvsurfart @craybands @ecovessel_aunz @waxbuddy @sevenseasteas @jolynaustralia (at Maldives)

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Going crazy without climb!!! #bouldering #climbing #treeclimbing #exercise #keepgoing #fitness #creativehappylife #beach #beast #sweetlife #bluesky #indonesia #dudewhereistheclimb #rockrings #theraband #epic #smile #usingsandinsteadofchalk #chalkmatters #crashpaddiaries #sawproject #surftrip #heelhookingthesurfboard #crimpingthesurfboard #ifitouchthewaterislikeadab #dabbingthewaves #brotrip (at Atas Bukit Pantai Seger, Kute Lombok)

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Siargao - Desire. Passion. Addiction.

Ich bin seit gestern wieder im kalten, grauen und verregneten Deutschland angekommen. Kaum wieder zu Hause und damit weg weit weg vom Ozean, weit weg von den Wellen und vor allem weit weg vom Surf. In Siargao, auf den Philippinen habe ich meinen ersten Surftrip verbracht, der länger als zwei Wochen angedauert hat. Ich war dort nämlich volle vier Wochen. Auf dem Heimflug habe ich mich gefragt, was genau surfen eigentlich mit mir macht. So bin ich die ganze Zeit davon ausgegangen, dass ich fern ab von den Wellen von der Sehnsucht nach meiner Leidenschaft geplagt werde. Aber nein! Ich bin süchtig! Süchtig nach Salzwasser, süchtig nach Sonne, süchtig nach Wellen und vor allem aber süchtig nach Surfen! Zu Hause fühle ich mich wie ein Abhängiger auf Entzugserscheinungen. Ich will surfen, surfen, surfen! Und das am liebsten ständig und immer! 

Das wars jetzt aber auch schon mit dem Blogpost. Heute gibts es nämlich mal wieder ein Video! Ein Video von meiner Reise auf die Philippinen! Ein Video von einer Reise, die meine Sucht zumindest für vier Wochen befriedigt hat! Viel Spaß dabei!

Hang Loose!

An Arctic Surf

There is something very unsettling about packing , unpacking, repacking your camera gear at 2am on a Bristol November morning. It could have been because I have never taken a lot of camera gear aboard before or I hadn’t met the 3 guys I was going with (they are all bosom buddies) maybe that I was about to jump on two planes, a ferry and a car journey across a land that was a cocktail of Mordor and Dartmoor to throw myself into the cold(er) side of the North sea, the Arctic ….or just the fact…it was 2AM!

This trip came along when I signed up for a  ‘Surf Photography Workshop’ that world-renowned Surf photographer Tim Nunn runs a couple of times a year for photographers wanting to ‘up they’re game’ in and out of the water. Alas, through injury Tim couldn’t make it so it ended up with myself ( taking snaps) Jamie Gatley ,Nick Rees and Adam Parsons (in the snaps) Luckily I fell straight into a group of Men(?) that shared the same ‘high-brow’ interests as myself. facial hair, cous-cous and taxidermy…oh and surfing!

Arriving at our accommodation ‘Unstad Arctic Surf ‘  in the village of Unstad, on the Lofoten Islands; Norway 17 hours after leaving Bristol we couldn’t have been more happier. We had our own awesome cabin which slept 10 so we had enough room to make it messy with all our gear…

Unstad has a SW through to NW facing beach break which has 2 rocky point breaks, one to the North and the other to the South so something for everyone! It is the most consistent break in the island chain that makes up Lofoten.  Surfing was first discovered here in the early 60’s. At that time, the Beach boys were on all top hit lists and the only outline of a surfboard they had was the cover of the album ‘Surfin´Safari ‘from 1962. So the local crew made their own surfboards from this cover. These boards can be seen at Unstad. It wasn’t till the 90’s when local Viking ( I’ve met him, he is..) Kristian Breivak rediscovered the bay. At this time, there were only a few surfers in Norway and they were all located around the Stavanger area. Kristian moved to Stavanger and talked so much about these fantastic waves north of the arctic circle. One day they gathered a small team and headed up to see what all this chat was about. They scored, big time!

First day we had a SW swell direction so the boys surfed the right hand point on the north side of the beach and I photographed from the rocks above. It was a strong, offshore wind, gusting 30-40mph but the powerful, head-and a-half monsters weren’t letting that stop them! lines setting the boys up for a good 3 hours with very little difference with the tide.  Surfed alone (beach roughly the size of Croyde) with a Seal and a load of cormorants. It rained all day….

Got down to Unstad beach which is next to our lodge and the most consistent break in the region. SW swell direction - cross/offshore wind - gusting 30-40mph. Head and a half high. Entered the water from the rocks from the north side of the beach and surfed a right hand point break, breaking over shallow Kelp covered rocks. Surfed alone with a seal and a load of cormorants. The beach was about Croyde size and with only 4 of us in! It rained all day!

Stayed at Unstad again as its been pumping all day. Still super windy and rainy though! Morning surf at north of the beach where it had faces of 15ft I reckon! The boys got a few barrels in. Def double overhead on a few, and super chunky! BEAUTIFUL! I got in with my GoPro to try out my new KNEKT trigger and dome port. The only thing this place has in common with other spots around the world is the water is wet. Bobbing around in this crystal, deep blue cool water surrounded by the shadows of mountains literally ‘coming out of the water’ weather of biblical temperament and wildlife that I had only thought existed in ‘Jurassic Park’ taking pictures of guys flying towards me in states of euphoria. It was definitely a ‘higher-power’ moment. Got out after a few hours had some food then went back in at the south of the beach to surf the point there. I have never seen wind like it! The guys said they couldn’t see anything on the take off because of spray!I Shot from the boot of the car, thought the thing was going to roll! Highlight was a French girl, Mee-Mee,  who is an instructor at the surf camp. Paddled out passed the boys, (who had enough rubber on to survive a front on nuclear attack!)   on a FLOATY, no hood or gloves and completely cleaned up! Couple of South Africans rocked up, never seen surfing like it, definitely pro standard. Wind dying off to 20mph tomorrow which apparently is good?!?! Going to try head somewhere else. It carried on raining..

 Headed up the coast to Delp to change it up a bit. The spot is north facing and needs a big west swell to get up there. The boys scored it good with a westerly swell, 10ft@13seconds with a light southerly wind. surfed this place for approx 3 hours, oh and those saffers that I mentioned, low and behold were there! Not only that, one of them, Steve ‘stezzy’ Sawyer is ranked WSL 49th and SA longboarding Champion whilst the other, Shannon Ainsleigh is a pro-surf instructor/mentor and SHARK ATTACK survivor! The pair of them were absolute jems ! That evening we went and watch Steve play an acoustic set in a local bar which he nailed, obviously! ( not jealous much) I bought his CD for my mum…..

Decided to go for a hike today. I say hike, It was a small mountain that we had to traverse with none of us having any real ‘mountain walking’ experience other than wearing North Face jackets and going to climbing walls ( I don’t even do that). I think we did a good job! Even if Adam was dressed like he was going on a night-out and I had the worst sprained ankle I think I have ever had…. “Lets go for a little walk shall we? We’ll surf later” …….. 9 kilometres and 1000 ft later we made it, apart from not being able to tweet or get a good latte at the summit I was pretty chuffed! We didn’t surf.Later that evening my mate James from Bristol turned up with a mate at our lodge (as you do, passing by in the Arctic like) and joined us for dinner. Later that evening we had our first taste of the Northern Light’s which blew our MINDS!!!!! 6 lads running ( me hobbling) around a field shrieking with delight annoying James to lend his camera gear (he brought a small 'Jessops’ store with him)

Last day so Mee-Mee ( French surf instructor empress ) took us to Kvalvika where the film ‘North Of The Sun’ was made. We hiked in, surfed, had a bonfire, hiked out, saw more northern lights ( yawn ) got back to the surf lodge where the camps owner, local shredder Tommy had prepared a traditional outside Norwegian Hot-tub….the whole thing was very, very, VERY cool! ( bordering on ‘Hipster’ but know one has to know that..)

Went back to Bristol