This is when i feel most alive. Its paddling out into big overhead sets, watching your mate take the drop, the spray of water whipped up by the offshore wind, its surfing as the sun goes down and clambering over rocks in the remaining light. There is something about the feeling of surfing that can never be replicated, i guess that’s why people drop everything to chase waves all over the world. These are some photos from a big session last night that had me frothing all the way home!.
#tbt to 14 years and 7,300 miles away. Me, after 8 hours of surfing Shipwreck Bay, just outside of Ahipara, New Zealand. It almost hurts seeing the youth in me here, it almost aches to see me so fresh, just beginning to find my feet in the world. Time doesn’t fly, it moves so much faster than that. One blink and two decades vanish like smoke.
#tbt to way too many years ago when I still owned a razor and rocked my lucky jade necklace I found while surfing in New Zealand. Baby faced and absolutely ridiculous. I love how time reminds you how silly it all is.