surf matters

I love the ocean. I love to surf, not just for the surf, but for the serenity.  There’s no worries when you’re in the water.  You look around you, and you see how small your problems are and how beautiful the world is.  The turtles swimming beneath you, the sun shining above you, the people playing on the beach ahead of you.  Life is happening right in front of you and there’s no way to deny it.  There’s so many beautiful things in this world and we spend too much time on things that don’t matter.  Surfing is my escape.  You’re so alive when you can feel the sun burning your back and the water feels so good and everything seems alright.  Your problems are left on the shore, but you’re not.  That feeling is so liberating.  Leave the superficial behind you, and only look forward.  God created this world for us to enjoy, and the most important thing I’ve learned is that you aren’t going to enjoy it behind a computer screen or on a cell phone.  Find your passion and engulf yourself in it.  That is the definition of success, and that’s freedom.
—  audprater