surcote

last quarter of the 13th century (1275-1300) France?

Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal

Arsenal 3142: (Collection of poems, in Old French)

fol. 292r - marriage of the Devil’s daughters

http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b55003999w/f1.planchecontact

15th century (ca.1410) France (Paris)

Ms. fr. 190/2, Bibliothèque de Genève, Genève

Giovanni Boccaccio: Des cas des nobles hommes et femmes

Rosamond and her lover Helmegis are about to kill each other. (Read more about their story on wikipedia or on wikipedia.)

Queen Rosamond wears sideless surcote over her belted kirtle. The surcote is edged with fur and its front is decorated with jewelled band running from neckline to the hips. By this time the sideless surcote (also known as “gates of hell”) had fallen out of mainstream fashion and became a ceremonial garment, often employed by illuminators in depictions of queens (frequently with ermine trimming and the jewelled band and complimented by a red cloak).

Rosamond’s lover, although naked, still wears a dashing jewelled hat (chaperon of a kind?). (This is not an unusual sight in this era – bathing and sleeping people are often depicted thusly.) Note his awesome beard.

http://www.e-codices.unifr.ch/en/list/one/bge/fr0190-2