surcote

last quarter of the 13th century (1275-1300) France?

Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal

Arsenal 3142: (Collection of poems, in Old French)

fol. 292r - marriage of the Devil’s daughters

http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b55003999w/f1.planchecontact

2

    → Elizabeth Woodville’s coronation (26th of May 1465), part. 1

« She was awed by the magnificent solemnity of the Abbey and the ceremony, and was acutely conscious that some of the watchers thought her unsuitable and unworthy. Were they perhaps hoping for some lapse, some indication that she lacked the “queenliness” of a lady born into the purple, and were they relieved or disappointed when everything ran smoothly ? It was an exciting, almost dream-like, experience, but she controlled the emotions which crowded upon her and displayed a calm exterior to the assembled peers. The procession left the Abbey in the same order with the Duke of Suffolk, and the Earl of Essex, carrying the sceptres, and Elizabeth was conducted through a Hall to her Chamber where she was “newe revestyd in a surcote of purpull”.» ― David Baldwin, Elizabeth Woodville, Mother of the Princes in the Tower.

15th century (ca.1410) France (Paris)

Ms. fr. 190/2, Bibliothèque de Genève, Genève

Giovanni Boccaccio: Des cas des nobles hommes et femmes

Rosamond and her lover Helmegis are about to kill each other. (Read more about their story on wikipedia or on wikipedia.)

Queen Rosamond wears sideless surcote over her belted kirtle. The surcote is edged with fur and its front is decorated with jewelled band running from neckline to the hips. By this time the sideless surcote (also known as “gates of hell”) had fallen out of mainstream fashion and became a ceremonial garment, often employed by illuminators in depictions of queens (frequently with ermine trimming and the jewelled band and complimented by a red cloak).

Rosamond’s lover, although naked, still wears a dashing jewelled hat (chaperon of a kind?). (This is not an unusual sight in this era – bathing and sleeping people are often depicted thusly.) Note his awesome beard.

http://www.e-codices.unifr.ch/en/list/one/bge/fr0190-2

15th century (1450-1480) FlemishBibliothèque de Genève Ms. fr. 64: La fleur des histoires by Jean Manselfol. 47vhttp://www.e-codices.unifr.ch/en/list/one/bge/fr0064