suit made in italy

9

Green Suits

I was thinking about that green suit from the LACMA we all love (remember that post?) and decided that green menswear is rather pretty (especially when mixed with pink).

Photos from top:

  1. “Portrait of a Gentleman said to be Earl Grey”, George Romney.
  2. Lime green three-piece suit, made in Italy, ca. 1770, LACMA.
  3. “Jacob Wilkinson, a Governor of the East India Company”, Johann Zoffany.
  4. Coat and waistcoat, ca. 1775, McCord Museum.
  5. “Arthur Chichester, 1st Marquess of Donegall”, ca. 1790, Thomas Gainsborough.
  6. Green coat, ca. 1790, LACMA.
  7. “Portrait of Francis Lind”, George Romney.
  8. “A Conversation (The Artist’s Brothers, Peter and James Romney)” detail, 1766, George Romney.
  9. “Portrait of Jean-Baptiste Oudry”, 1753, Jean-Baptiste Perronneau.
10

Boglioli AW15 Collection

Shown during Milan Fashion Week, Italian luxury brand Boglioli proves once again why its name should still be on everyone’s mind. Inspired by the 1960’s Milanese elegance, the collection features different silhouettes through plays on proportion, where shorter jackets and high-waisted trousers play a crucial role.

3

Court suit                

  • Place of origin:
  • Date:
  • Artist/Maker:
  • Materials and Techniques:
  • Credit Line:

France (woven)
Italy (made)

1765-1770 (made)

Unknown (production)

Silk velvet, embroidered with silver-gilt thread, purl and sequins, lined with silk satin, backed with corded silk, hand-sewn

Given by W. R. Crawshay

Such a luxurious silk velvet elaborately embellished with silver-gilt thread would only have been worn for high-society events at Court. The embroidery is a dense pattern of large flowers and leaves, executed in a variety of threads with purl and spangles. This very formal style of dress was quite conservative in style. The flared skirts of the coat, deep cuffs and absence of a collar reflect the fashions of the 1750s. The provenance of this ensemble suggests an Italian origin.

10

Sciamat AW16 - Pitti Uomo 89 Preview

“Fit for a King” would be an accurate way to describe Sciamat’s bespoke works of art, even if the mannequins on display at their booth weren’t donning golden crowns. Carrying on what is considered by many as one of the most valuable tailoring legacies of recent years, the Ricci brothers once again presented their unique take on classic menswear and overall elegance. Despite the fewer pieces being showcased at the booth, as a result of another stand they were hosting at a nearby hotel, the essence of Sciamat was undeniably portrayed in each of their creations. 

Spread across an array of tuxedos, 3-piece suits, sports jackets and overcoats, the trademark features of the tailoring house were unveiled in a most superb fashion: fully unlined construction, massive overlapping peak lapels, roped shoulders, luxurious fabrics and the utmost attention to the slightest details. All the unique requirements that make the process of owning a Sciamat garment that more exclusive and unique. Within a mostly subdued color palette comprised of grey, navy, black and the occasional brown, hints of plaid patterns and textured fabrics stood amidst the crowd. 

Embodying the concepts of timeless elegance, the Ricci have been able to develop their unique approach to an ancient art, based on the knowledge of old but with a subtle artistic twist: in fact, it’s only when faced with such skilled craftsmanship and cut that you realize just how fundamental these concepts are in creating the most elegant of silhouettes. Whereas a solid navy or black suit are often regarded as too simplistic or uninteresting in most brands, when it comes to Sciamat, they represent the epitome of a gentleman’s uniform and of male classic elegance.

Miguel Amaral Vieira