styleternity

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Journey To The South: packing for my Sydney visit 

With naught to do over the fleeting semester break, I shall journey to Sydney for something of a respite from Queensland over the next week. I begrudgingly admit that there are particulars within Brisbane’s cityscape that agree with me. However, for the most part I long to do some traveling around Australia’s truly great metropolises before my time studying in this strange (yet beautiful) country is at an end. 

While in NSW I shall endeavor to visit all the familiar #menswear temples - Incu, Capsule, and Inventory to name a few - but the main purpose of my pilgrimage is to finally stand within the sanguine halls of patrickjohnsontailors for a long overdue meeting with an esteemed establishment. Let the record show I shamelessly declared it “Australia’s best menswear store” not more than a year ago, an opinion that holds fast to this day. 

Here’s what yours truly is lugging all the way south in an effort to brave the cold:

  • Suitsupply ‘beater’ suit in navy herringbone (S110 VBC) 
  • LBM 1911 cotton blazer (3 patch pockets, surprisingly versatile even in the winter)
  • Drumohr flecked rollneck (42% cashmere/58% wool mix) 
  • Knit ties (Drakes wool/Knottery NYC silk) 
  • MP di Massimo Piombo shirt (semi-spread collar w/ medium stripe detail) 
  • Club Monaco 6 oz. foulard 
  • Club Monaco knit wool bomber 
  • Todd Snyder x CHAMPION sweatshirt (for running around museums & galleries in) 
  • Meermin MTO austerity brogue

NOT PICTURED:

  • Adidas Stan Smiths (the ROTM kind, nothing fancy)
  • Club Monaco sweatpants (for cosyboy feels) 

A large volume of content involving acquisitions made in Sydney will be forthcoming early next month but be sure to follow along on my Instagram if you’re interested in seeing aerial views of espresso cups. That sounded far less sardonic than I’d like.

STYLETERNITY 

Un-Rapid Reblogs: Music/HipHop

Styleternity is a dope blog, and his ‘Rapid Reblogs’ series is a refreshing slowing down of the quick image-based turnover that Tumblr encourages. Don’t get me wrong, I love the speed at which stuff move through here. Tt makes it super easy to follow stuff like Fashion Week and Pitti, with the massive info dump of all the different coverage. 

But every now then you gotta pump the brakes on what Andrew Nosnitsky has described before as the fantasy football, i-spotted-it-first mentality that blogs encourage and re-examine the things that really stayed with you. I’m gonna do that here in a series of posts, starting with this year’s new music, hip-hop in particular.

Rich Homie Quan - Still Goin In (Reloaded) (Mixtape, 2013)

Let me put it out there right off the bat, Future is hands down my favorite artist, so my current baseline for judging music is primarily on how close it is to sounding like Future Hendrix. The two criteria for this are 1) sounding like a gangsta-android on the verge of tears and 2) making cool sounds. Quan nails both here. Starting with the hook on the first song (“wanna see mee doooown/wanna see mee faaaaal”) all the way through to “Type of Way”, which is a serious contender for song of the year, he intertwines both elements flawlessly. Is it entirely original? No. Does it sound cool? Yup.

Migos - YRN (Mistape, 2013)

Forget all the hype about Fuhsachee and Medusa heads. It’s not a bad song but it’s certainly not the meat of this tape. These guys can spit some serious metrics. They might not have a whole lot to say, but they make it all sound pretty good. They’ve got some serious hook shot action going on, too. The auto-tune on “Finnesser” and “Baker’s Man” is some straight up robot shit, as is Gucci Mane’s amazing singing on “Dennis Rodman”. Also, Christian Ponder owes Migos something, as they are probably the only rappers who will ever mention him in anything other than a negative fashion.

Young Thug - 1017 Thug (Mixtape, 2013)

Hands down the tape of the year. He does this awesome thing where he free associates words based on the way they sound and almost nothing else, and it makes for some awesome bars. “L-E-A-N-I-N-G/Lean, Lean, Lean, Lean, LEANLEANLEAN” is probably the bar of the year and it doesn’t mean anything. The hook to “Condo Music” is dope too but it doesn’t seem to mean anything either. But what really drives Thugga’s music home is his delivery. He sounds frantic, desperate, and volatile, switching voices in a way similar to what Danny Brown did on XXX. It really comes out on his feelz song “Shooting Star” with Gucci. Again, not only is it full of cool sounds, but it also pulls you in with its emotion and energy.

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THE LION IN WINTER- Michael Bastian fall retrospective 

February 13, 2012

Recently, Styleternity has become obsessed with Mr. Michael Bastian. Bastian’s critically lauded designer collections for GANT have garnered him much attention, and his previous experience as the menswear director of Bergdorf Goodman have enabled him to hone his take on classic American menswear- something that has not experienced its due runway renaissance for some time. As a devotee of classic timeless style, Bastian champions the simple stuff: Ivy League Americana with a hint of European tailoring that is as essential as it is eternal. 

The Fall 2012 collection is a study of ‘lions in winter’- the so called extra men of the 1970’s (a period from which Bastian frequently derives inspiration)- who ranged in age from the youthful to the erudite. Bastian’s take on American heritage is particularly inspired, taking the slim fit and narrow waists of typically Italian tailoring and reworking them in the image of pinstripe suits, quilted jackets et cetera. 

Yet despite an espousal for all thing unfussy and reliable, Bastian’s Fall collection has a touch of the dandy about it. From resin flowers details, to the colour pop of a gingham shirt, the Fall 2012 show was packed with details pointing to Bastian’s take on invigorated classicism. The models themselves proved highly dandified, sporting waxed moustaches, the sheen of pomade and even the odd touch of eye-liner. Critics have cited these minor touches of dandy as unnecessary, going so far as to say Bastian’s 'extra men’ concept proves more of an 'escort defanged’ concept. Maybe take the jacket and leave the finery of shantung and fur scarves then. 

STYLETERNITY

OUR PICK OF THE WEEK- VANISHING ELEPHANT CHINOS

Take a style leaf out of Austin Wong’s book and learn to rock these print chinos with the many varied wardrobe options you didn’t know you had. For a cult feel these delicate soft chinos can be teamed with nu-buck/ suede derbies or can be dressed up with a brogue and block coloured blazer. Designed by Sydney trio Vanishing Elephant, these make a handsome alternative to the American luxury chinos popularized by brands like Brooks Brothers and Michael Bastian. The printed miniature elephants are a nod to the brand’s namesake and in a lovely mustard colour these pants will be in-season all year long. 

Available at ASOS.

STYLETERNITY 

Murders & Acquisitions 

STYLETERNITY  

OUR PICK OF THE WEEK- ISAIA COTTON JERSEY “SAILOR” SPORTSCOAT

Having recently gleaned much inspiration from Thom Browne and Gant Rugger for all the shades of grey its only fitting that Styleternity's pick of the week is this wonderfully constructed soft shouldered sports-coat. 

Constructed in the fashion typical of Neapolitan tailoring this is a simple and beautiful jacket with all the trimmings of its $1077 USD price point. It includes jetted interior pockets, detachable Isaia coral lapel, working kissing buttons and is made with mother of pearl button closures. In the lightest shade of gray this jacket would work equally well with a charcoal or navy tie, and its relaxed construction means you can take it on the road with a polo and chinos if you wish to dress down for a casual occasion. 

Available now from Park & Bond

STYLETERNITY 

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OOTD 26-03-2013

So long story short: I asked a college dorm mate if he’d like to help shoot some images for a couple articles I was supposed to write over at t.X (shameless plug initiated) and after a while it sort of morphed into me being a fucking herb and - all but - forcing him to take some images of me as I walked slowly up and down stone roads at my University.

Having said that the homie JJ Hamilton did his best to make me look 30 % smangable so shout out to him for having the patience to pull the Canon 5D strap on me and produce these lovely photos.

Hopefully this won’t be a regular sort of thing but we had so many outtakes left over from the article photos that we took that I couldn’t help but post them here. Now awaiting the inevitable torrent of impending hate mail. 

Bless bless. 

Gant Rugger hopsack blazer

Gant Rugger madras oxford cloth button down

The Knottery silk knit tie

Charvet pocket square

Brooks Brothers woven d-ring belt

Edwin straight fit selvedge denim

Meermin Linea Classico tasseled loafers 

All images by Jeffrey Hamilton 26-03-2013 
STYLETERNITY 

OUR PICK OF THE WEEK- Christopher Shannon colour collage sweater 

With the 2012 Olympics now in full swing, Opening Ceremony have established their London pop-up store firmly in the heart of Covent Garden. With a selection of attire thematically linked to the events being held city-side, Opening Ceremony enlists Christopher Shannon for the latest pick of the week: this fun filled sweater.

With a 3 part colour blocking and a amalgamated icon of basket, tennis and baseballs this varsity inspired track appropriate piece is both functional and light hearted. Exclusive to Opening Ceremony, the sweater is emblazoned with a front print providing a focal point for one’s off-duty sports inspired look!

Available exclusively at Opening Ceremony

STYLETERNITY 

Sprezzatura at its finest!

BLUE AND YELLOW (by Filippo F.)

Filippo Fiora may just be my new favourite lookbooker..this uncomplicated and seasonally appropriate look epitomizes the Italian style sensibility while breaking a couple cheeky rules here and there. For example Filippo’s use of tie-to-footwear color is a little unconventional, not to mention choice of oversized roundel eyewear.

This experimentation is broken by conventional wisdom: his pocket square is un-stiff and charming (adding different levels of patterning) while his choice of trousers (in what I assume is linen) helps to break up the sea of blues in the outfit. 

Did we mention he’s wearing Church’s? Points for the man who know’s his Northampton shoe companies!

STYLETERNITY 

Why Working In Fast Fashion Will Kill Your #Menswear Vibe Dead

In a long and exhaustive list of the world’s most pointless occupations working in fast fashion would fall somewhere between ‘septic tank technician’ and 'professional vagrant impersonator’.. 

As a boisterous young whipper snapper in the #menswear game, I’m trying to catch mad praise out here from cool and perpetually unimpressed based Gods. Having said that, attempting to win over crispier gentlemen is somewhat hard when you work in the ninth circle of apparel hell.

Keep reading

OUR PICK OF THE WEEK - Saphir Renovateur

Here at Styleternity, I’m all about that long lasting sartorial quality. As somebody caught up in this whole #menswear thing I think we sometimes attach too much importance to the ‘next’ big purchase. The problem with this obsession is that your closet fills up with a whole bunch of stank product that you thought it was an appropriate idea to purchase 'at the time’ while the things that are heavy in your day to day rotation get worn into the ground without proper maintenance/alteration.

Nowhere is the problem more apparent than footwear: the foundation of any solid kit, fresh footwear sets the scene for a correspondingly great outfit. Unfortunately many of us lack the time and patience to really care for our shoes the way we should, and while Saphir Renovateur will not make a regular and thorough cleaning of your favorite C & J unnecessary its a pretty good temporary fix when you don’t have the time to stomp out a proper shoe shine.

Made with mink oil, the Saphir renovateur is the very very next level version of an all points leather treatment. Throw that ratchet Zanolin Kiwi shit into your nearest incinerator because Saphir is the benchmark when it comes to footwear maintenance. This oil based cleaner re-hydrates and cleans leather while simultaneously giving it a low matte shine. Used alone its a great temporary fix or as part of a routine (with separate polish and buffing) will result in that glass like patina the lads at The Armoury have been on for some time already.

Available at Kent Wang

STYLETERNITY

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FEARLESS FORD- TOM FORD Fall/Winter 2012 

There were certainly echoes of Ford’s former glories in the 2012 Fall/Winter menswear collection, brought on in part by parallels between this and his equally (if not more) successful womenswear RTW collection.

Big silhouettes, luxurious fox fur, brave lapels and oversized ties- this is the Gucci legacy done at its most courageous and yet somehow restrained. While the womenswear collection was defined by a glam ‘Russian Spy’ aesthetic of capes and body hugging leather, Ford’s menswear remains as practical as ever. Hardened elemental cold weather gear was a staple here, and while fur was utilized liberally and often it was of a texture harder and edgier than anything Ford has introduced before. 

This being the fall, Ford has also revised his colour palette- completing it with chestnut and toffee browns that downplay the butter soft knits and meticulously canvassed tweed jackets of the collection. Could we perhaps be privy to the reveal of a softer side of Ford’s design aesthetic? Who knows, either way we’re still witnessing a confident designer at the apex of his craft.

STYLETERNITY  

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NEW THIS WEEK- STYLE PICKS

Maison Kitsune dinner jacket- perfect for morning weddings in the country or as part of a delightful summer formal ensemble, this dinner jacket in a cream neutral with black piping detail has a Gatsby-esque charm to it giving it both a vintage feel and a contemporary cut!

Brooks Brothers seersucker shirt- allow your skin to breath this spring with this button down Oxford in seersucker. Wear it down with chino shorts or up with a knit tie and a short cut blazer. 

Marni canvas print shirt- make this shirt the centrepiece to your outfit by going clean and simple on the cotton shorts and low-top sneakers. Use monochromes or neutrals to accentuate the unparalled attention to detail on this shirt. 

E. Tautz blazer- double breasted with a difference; this blazer with its partially separated lapels and collar in a handsome colour make for an upgrade to a basic outfit or a capper on a chunky knit turtle neck and heavy wool trousers. 

STYLE ABROAD ROUND-UP PT 2. UNIQLO HONG KONG

Sort of a tepid half answer to J.Crew and its dominance over the menswear basics market, Uniqlo is a Japanese fashion conglomerate often hailed as ‘H & M+’ (higher quality basics, better-if fewer-designer collabs) available widely throughout Japan, China and Korea. 

Unlike its single store location in NYC, all Uniqlos throughout HK and China provide a next-day complimentary alteration service (for its already wide range of fits and body specific garments). Recommended menswear essentials (for a price that would make many of their competitors top themselves) include the ubiquitous OCBD (co-signed by menswear blogger veterans), their price-point formidable cargo pants (that come in a variety of both regular and perfect fit) and a range of colourful hosiery that comes in thick/thin gauge. 

For students, young professionals and devotees of Henry Thoreau you’ll be hard pressed to find a basics shop that has you covered as well as Uniqlo at such a competitive price! 

STYLETERNITY 

browne. (by Jaybe Lee)

Continuing proof that Lookbook is actually inhabited by men who infuse energy into a classic sense of dress this sort of look that first came to Styleternity’s attention with Thomas Finney is going from strength to strength. Note the wonderful use of colour layering, the differing textures of the small check (jacket and trousers) mixed with the charcoal of the waistcoat work wonderfully.

This is then paired off with a contrasting and burnished brogue (sockless in the tradition of Thom Browne) and a pocket square. Also notice how the hem of the trouser reaches just above the shoe-top and the off-kilter roll of the tie (perfect in its imperfection). 

That’s not to say that this look is ‘conventional’ by any means: with a chunk beanie and tortoiseshell eye-wear its a hint of rebel with a generous helping of stylish Americana. The only thing I could fault in this ensemble is the briefcase (in this context it seems forced). 

13 Rules To Acquaint You With The Menswear Game

In times of heated academic research, Styleternity turns to a little bit of a study break, by giving you the skinny on those critical menswear tropes (if you’ll pardon the term) that the lads of the world should never forget.

Sure there’s plenty of ways to express your brand of personal style (flip-flops and sockwear is not one of them) but there are a couple of immutable rules that a man should always have in mind in order to get the most steez out of his style game.

  1. Find a good tailor- in the land of menswear, fit is king, and by establishing an excellent relationship with a tailor you ensure the most boring clothing are revitalized by the most flattering of cuts.
  2. Button up (or not)- the bottom button of one’s jacket should forever remain undone. The result of an unhappy old world English accident, the bottom button  is entirely for maintenance and not for show. In a land filled with men who boast of their knowledge of ‘clothes and shit’ this fundamental piece of knowledge separates those who care from those who pretend.
  3. The width of your tie should match the width of your lapels- its a simple concept; if going for a skinny tie go for a thinner lapel, if going for a traditional peak lapel go for the appropriately wider tie. Its not microdynamic theory but you’d be surprised how many men fail to pay attention and end up looking like The Thin White Duke aften an evening with A Flock of Seagulls. 
  4. No puddles- 'puddling’ is a term that the menswear community affectionately uses when referring to the excess material that pools at the top of a man’s shoe. It results from ill-fitting pants and is upfront unpleasant to look at, never mind all this menswear jibber jabber. Have a tailor address it if its a problem tout suite
  5. Learn to tie a bow tie- there’s nothing worse than being mistaken for Peewee Herman’s doppleganger, and with a stiff jilted pre-tie bowtie, its merely a matter of 'when’ before this fate befalls you. Not only are self tie bow ties pleasantly assymetrical but as the night wears on (when the occasion calls for it) one can simply wear it long around his collar in a dégagé fashion.
  6. Tie a four-in-hand-the go to knot of Patrick Grant of E.Tautz, the four-in-hand gives a rakish shape to one’s tie without providing a hilariously tiny knot. In an age of slim ties, this is a happy compromise that won’t reduce you to part of the Bon Iver cursing, slim tie and skinnies pack.
  7. Do not buy square toed shoes-the square toe has NEVER been 'fashionable’: it is a boxy and pudding faced shape that will do nothing but draw attention to one’s feet, which are admittedly not the most attractive part of the human anatomy anyway. Go classic with a round toed Oxford or if you’re feeling adventurous for a pointed derby.
  8. Know your shirt collars- there’s more than one? The type of collar that adorns a shirt says more about it than you’d initially assume- a button down collar tends to fall into a more casual sphere, the point represents the brave American style school, and a semi-spread will give you more gauge for your tie. The 'point’ (chuckle) being: learn the difference.
  9. Always keep your jacket buttoned, it will improve your silhouette-Tom Ford advice, need I say more?
  10. Upgrade your suit game- no you don’t have to go to Zegna every time you want to improve your suiting options. Simply dive back into your wardrobe, pull out something that can be re-cut in a more flattering fit. Switch out cheap buttons for those made of pearl or horn, or indulge your English heritage by having your tailor sew a ticket pocket into it. Its an upgrade not an overhaul.
  11. Black on Black-the black tie formula is not something to be trifled with. The only time a man should be wearing a black suit is at the appropriate night time formal gathering. Are you a member of the Secret Service? A city traveling coroner? Will Smith’s body double? If any of these questions you answer resoundingly with no then remember: the BLACK suit should only be deployed during a BLACK tie event (see what happened there?).
  12. Personal maintenance- there is nothing more hilarious yet somehow distressing than a man who has no idea how to iron a shirt; polish his brogues; sew on a button et cetera. One of the foremost qualities of a stylish man (and a good man) is that he understands some basic life skills and if you don’t know all or any of the 3 above, you can now utilize Youtube for something other than hilarious cat videos. 
  13. Stay the course- puns are despicable, but they serve a purpose here. Collar stays are tiny pieces of either fabric or solid material in the shape of arrows that are inserted into the underside of the shirt collar points (left and right). They help a collar maintain their shape and will assist in assuring your collar does not prevent your tie from sitting right. Most shirts from department stores tend to come standard with a pitiful temporary pair, but you can remedy this by purchasing a pair of your own.

MAN OF THOM BROWNE

The gentleman on the left is SCAD graduate student Thomas Finney, who interned at Ruffian in 2008 and later at Thom Browne in 2009. Sadly we’ve no idea who his colleague on the right is.

Please also note the expert touches that these two present as employees of Thom Browne- upturned storm collar, four-in-hand tie knot, and what appear to be suits of charcoal three piece herringbone. The man on the right has also accentuated his accoutrement by showing a bit of fabric in Browne’s signature 3 colour bar stripe. 

STYLETERNITY

The Return Of The King- Slimane takes the reins at YSL

For those of you who have been following Hedi Slimane since his lauded departure from Dior Homme in 2007 you will know that the former creative director has since been keeping extremely busy- having photographed film and music legends and remained a stalwart editorial contributor on the fashion insider circuit.

However, since late March the proverbial rumour drought has been broken with news that Yves Saint Laurent’s current menswear director Stefano Pilati shall be replaced by Slimane. Additionally Slimane will take on the overarching role of Yves Saint Laurent’s creative director, a responsibility that will see him design his first womenswear collection- a major point of excitement amongst fashion insiders who are eager to see Slimane turn his hand to women’s haute couture. 

Slimane’s return has been met with widespread positive acclaim, many felt his departure from Dior to be both untimely and highly unnecessary. Though he has continued to thrive from his base of operations in Los Angeles since 2007 (exhibiting multiple times at the Museum of Contemporary Art), Slimane is well known for revolutionizing the Dior silhouette, bringing it forward into the 20th century. The skinny suit, slim tie and monochromatic tailoring (which are now hallmarks of most pretenders-to-the-throne) have become such a part of modern male dress sensibility that it bids reckoning to see what Slimane will do with YSL- a house that till now has had a very strong sense of heritage and largely relied on archival inspiration from their namesake.

This actually being Slimane’s second sojourn at the atelier of Yves Saint Laurent, there are big expectations that this time around Slimane will refine the aesthetic sparsity YSL himself championed for menswear. The big question is: will Slimane reinvent the menswear wheel again?