01. Portugas D. Ace - Daz Bones (Mr 1) - Islewan (New World Captain) 02. Peeply Lulu 03. Iceburg - Aisa 04. Crocus - Peterman 05. Strawberry 06. Tilestone - Oimo 07. Mozu 08. Emporio Ivankov 09. Pickles 10. Eustass Kid - Queen Otohime 11. Itomimizu (commentatore Davy Back Fight) 12. Doctor Hiluluk 13. Ikaros Muchi 14. Sweet Pea 15. A.O (New World Captain) 17. Capone “Gang” Bege 18. Splash - Splatter (salvatori di Sanji) 19. Spandine 26. Nero 27. Lola 31. Aladdin
01. Brogy - Doma (New World Captain) 02. Nefetari Vivi - Killer 03. Fuza (Shura’s pet) - Barbabruna (Brownbeard) - Bizarre (New World Captain) 04. Nyon - Fukaboshi - Haruta 05. Vista - Blamenco 06. Nico Robin - Nico Olvia - Blondie (New World Captain) 08. Gonbe - Onigumo 09. Bartholomew Kuma - Genbou - Wadatsumi 10. Mikazuki 12. Little Oars Jr. 15. Charlotte Linlin (Big Mom) - Daisy 16. Bluejam 20. Kumadori 22. Hamburg - Jerry 23. Makino 24. Enishida 28. Woop Slap (Sindaco del villaggio di Fuusha)
01. Minorhinoceros 02. Sanji - Reiju, Red, Blue and Green - San Juan Wolf 03. Galdino (Mr 3) - Hina 04. Mashira - Minotaurus 05. Sadi-chan - Minokoala 06. Jaguar D. Saul - Salome (Hancock’s pet) 07. Minozebra 08. Zambai 09. Franky (Cutty Flam) - Shanks - Dracule Mihawk 10. Sentoumaru - Satori - Nola (serpente gigante di Skypiea) 11. Palms (New World Captain) - Spandam 12. Stelly 13. Lafitte 14. Smoker - Alvida 16. Tom 19. Scratchmen Apoo - Atmos 20. Sabo - Shiki 21. Lieutenant Spacey 24. Thatch 25. Ohm 26. Tsuru 29. Catarina Devon - Saint Shalulia 30. Manboshi 31. Giudice Baskerville (Bas, Kerville and Princess)
01. Usopp - Kashi 02. Jinbei - Zeff 03. Brook - Porchemi - Monda (Foxy Pirates’ pet) 04. Princess Shirahoshi - Foxy 05. Yamakaji (Vice Ammiraglio) - Ministro della destra (Minister of the Right) 06. Edward Newgate (Whitebeard) - Speed Jiru - Jean Bart 08. Doctor Clover - Megalo 09. Caesar Clown - Yorki - Margaret - Mohmoo 10. Forest Boss (Monkey in Gedatsu ministory) 13. Morgan 14. Hody Jones 15. Fossa 16. Stronger (Doc Q’s horse) 18. Hyouzou 20. Blueno 22. Capitan Kuro 23. Kalifa 28. Funkfreed (spada elefantesca) 29. Miss Goldenweek
01. Kaido - Capote 02. Monkey D. Garp - Coribou 03. Arlong 04. Ishilly 05. Monkey D. Luffy - Demaro Black (Finto Luffy) 06. Eneru 08. Shakky 09. Sengoku & Kong 10. Heracles 13. Silvers Rayleigh - Coby 18. Gorilla (Marine Captain) 19. Andre (New World Captain) - John Giant 20. Conis 22. Decalvan Brothers 23. Chuu (Chew) 25. Big Pan 31. Lacueva
01. St Charloss - Moda (Ragazza della mini avventura di Ace) 02. Chimney - Rob Lucci - Ronse (Vice Ammiraglio) 03. Mousse (Calgara’s daughter) 04. Epoida (New World Captain) 05. Jabra 06. Momonga - Karma (New World Captain) 07. Perona 08. Saldeath - Lacroix (Vice Admiral) 09. Rockstar - Surume 10. Portgas D. Rouge - Dalton 11. Shiryuu 12. Disco 20. Amadob (New World Captain) 22. Gyro 24. Ryuuboshi 28. St Roswald 29. Fukurou 30. Elmy (New World Captain)
02. Ministro della Sinistra (Minister of the Left) 03. Nami - Re Nettuno (King Neptune) 04. Caribou 06. Lucky Roo - Namur 07. Laki 08. Paulie - Daruma 10. Kamakiri - Ramba (New World Captain) 15. Donquixote Rosinante 16. Helmeppo - Seto 17. Hammond 23. Richie 29. Kadar (G2 Marine)
January: “Unbranded”: promoting the mustang? or just a group of stupid thrill seeking college kids knowingly putting their horses lives in danger? “Take your rich bitch money and fat mouth elsewhere”: The “If you say everyone needs a trainer, you’re elitist” mantra. The State of America: Judge Qualifications. Horse Slaughter: livestock animal, best friend, or both? ALERT: Police on high alert after the word “piaffe” was mentioned by an unqualified individual. Those unintentional suicide jokes. What brand is your bridle? Our experts weigh in on what your bridle says about your financial status. LDR vs Rolkur, AGAIN… The Facts: Is there a correlation between liking a certain breed and preferring a certain style of horse management?
February: Conspiracy: Theveganmothership and Banallequinesports are the same person. NEWSFLASH: putting stallions in the same area so they can sort out their hierarchy under the careful eyes of their owners is abusive and disgusting. “jfc Janet BAIL is what you have when you are in jail and BALE is what hay is in. Learn to fckn spell” Halters: Nylon vs. Leather? Safety vs. Aesthetics? Helmet Girl strikes again! Weighted tails, weighted bits, and other training nonsense.
March: Real Talk: is it Horseblr or Horsblr? Arthur’s absolutely appalling joke of a browband. Some interesting A circuit hunters drama that had something to do with burn marks?? Do we or do we not want barrel racers to wear helmets with cowboy hat attachments: safety vs aesthetics part 2. “My daddy bought me an import and I only see it once a month”. The bald face debate. Salt against saddleseat. Dogblr vs Horsblr: Cesar Milan edition. The Pénélope Leprevost incident.
April: Can horses be assholes on purpose? Barrel Racing and Dressage: Are the two disciplines on equal grounds? Bits in the Hunter Ring: What the riders don’t want you to see. BREAKING NEWS: Witnesses say a photo of an average quarter horse preforming piaffe circulated created uproar among dressage enthusiasts convinced that only warmbloods are capable of such movements. Australia’s ridiculous National Security laws and what they have to do with not vaccinating your horse. Animal welfare concerns: clipping horses for the winter. NEW INFO: Lainey Ashker killed her horses!
May: Famous self proclaimed horseman Clinton Anderson flips a horse over: Was it preventable? TONIGHT ON 7 NEWS: Horsblr’s collective obsession with the piaffe. Vague blogging at its finest. You can’t take your horse out on hacks unless you have exposed them to every single possible flight response trigger, otherwise, you suck. Double twisted wire bits on Hunter ponies: Hot or not? If you use two saddle pads, you are the DEVIL. The saga continues: Tear Lainey’s dressage skills apart but Edward Gal is untouchable.
June: Mares vs. Geldings. Proper ‘Eq’: What happened to shoulder hip heel? Dogblr weighs in: Adopting vs. Buying.
July: Exposing your young horse to show jumping: ABUSE. Page 45, section 4, subsection 5, paragraph 2 of Hunter barn ‘eq’tiquette dictates that you can’t drink water during lessons… (its a sign of weakness) Also, page 27, section 2 says that praising your horse before leaving the ring is frowned upon and points may be deducted. Falsterbo Horse Show footage. Clinton Anderson’s “death to tree huggers” video controversy.
August: CWD Female Saddle: Sexist? or does since and physiology back their products up? Stronger bits for stronger horses: an indicator for lack or training. RIO 2016 ~ super cresty lusitanos, Adeline Cornellisen scratches mid test (what a hero) Country of Origin Bias: Kittel vs Ward. Vulture squad vs. Bench bitches???
September: Spanking your horse: acceptable or barbaric? Negative Reinforcement: a non-aversive, magical method of communication between you an your horse <3. Our readers weigh in on how your sex life may correlate with how you handle horsblr discourse.
October: “People who can’t afford to take quality care of their pets have every right to continue to own their animals”. Polo wraps are always a valid reason to start drama.
November: Donald Trump is elected… On barn dogs and which ones to shoot. WHAT KIND OF SQUASH IS THAT?! Poor horse folk outraged and left feeling bitter after Cylana sold to young rider for 3 million USD. Attention: There is only one true way to lunge your horse, only one, thats it. The chaff discourse.
December: Barrel racing Instagram equestrians and futurity shit. “Kicking Your Horse in the Chest for Refusing to Jump and other Tantrums”. Personal opinion posts taken way too far. Pro-anas infiltrate horseblr. Hoof Crack Treatment Discourse. Gettin Salty: Dutch Harness Horses. Biting and Aggression: Best Plan of Action? “Wow I cant believe ur horse is on bute when u haven’t been given it by a vet even tho if i had checked your blog for literally 5 seconds i would have seen i was literally wrong!”
So im like, hooked into it for the past 5 hours, and like, the writing is okay, not too hot and the characters are borderline*.
* you know those characters that are right on the line of NOT beeing too fetishy and beeing too fetishy? Those characters that make you go “heeeehhhhh yes i still find it nice, but man it could be less of this”?
Filled with them, so an overall mediocre product.
but DAMN, 5 hours i spent on that thing because of cockteasing.
Now i wanna make a dating sim, and i wanna put so much cock teasing in it that the players ball wont just become blue, they’ll freeze and drop.
Damn really, something so mediocre, maybe mediocre on the nice side, hooks you so muhc because of hopes and curiosity.
There is a saying we use in italy: “An hair of pussy pulls stronger than 12 horses” Meaning that the sexual innuendo of somethign is stronger than the lack of quality.
Lovable characters, thats all it was, they didnt look too good, they definitely didnt say cool things, they were just a huge cock tease, and lovable….
I love your sick Grantaire post! I'm wondering if you would do one for Enj as well? (:
Ok so I often see Enjolras with the flu or stomach flu but what about Enjolras with a mean laryngitis? I mean the guy whose voice and speeches have the “tremor of a hymn”, renders to a wheezing feverish mess.
Joly makes him honey, thyme and lemon tea for this throat
“Combeferre you’re a bloody doctor can’t you give me something STRONGER?”
“Horse tranquilisers are not exactly part of my range no Enjolras”
Enjolras going around with a little slate and a chalk to people
Enjolras subsequently finding his slate covered in incredibly detailed penises
Enjolras have awful and itchy coughing fits that leave him sore and grumpy. So Grantarire kisses his throat to alleviate the pain a bit
Bossuet and Courfeyrac keep apologising for making him laugh
Jehan makes him balms they’ve been reading about in 18th century medecine books
So proud of Soph’s progress during her first season at Prix St. George! She’s such a smart horse and it’s so much fun to see her get stronger and more confident. ❤️💪🏼😄 #horses #dressage #westphalian #warmblood #equestrian
It's transportation on horseback. I was thinking of how they feel while riding, special care they might need while travelling (like how often to stop so they rest), how they are controlled, and maybe how to help someone that has never ridden a horse to get on it
Hmmmmmmm. Well, how it feels to be on a horse depends a lot on the saddle and the horse itself, as well as the rider. As far as saddles go, I only have experience with English -
And Western -
There are other types of saddles, but I don’t know anything about them, lol.
In an english saddle, and when riding english, the rider “posts,” or lifts off the saddle with the rhythm of the horse -
When riding english, one would generally “direct rein,” which means there’s a rein in each hand and when one pulls a certain rein, it directs the horse to go in that direction -
Generally english will hold their reins much tighter than western, especially show horses. Even to the point sometimes where a horse’s neck begins to curl upward. While I don’t do a lot of english riding and generally disagree with a lot of english (and western for that matter) training practices, using a tight direct rein, as well as a stiffer bit, will allow for better control of the horse. I use this when I’m first green breaking a horse–to keep better control–when I’m dealing with a problematic horse, or when a horse is simply acting like a butthead.
Jumpers, dressage, and race horses generally use a variation of the english saddle.
I’m MUCH more experienced with Western, however, because I was raised with a more rustic, ranching style of riding.
Western riders don’t post–they keep their butts in the saddle -
The saddles are designed to keep you settled. Above, we see the rider gripping the horn–which the english saddle does not have–in order to stay more firmly inside the seat. You can also see the that the seat comes up in the back, which also helps keep the rider in place. A barrel racing saddle will have a higher seat, while endurance saddles will sit lower and be more focused on comfort. There are other variations–different kinds of horns and pommels–but I won’t go into that.
But if the rider is going fast enough to justify holding the horn, how do they control the horse?
This is where neck reining comes in. Neck reining only requires one hand, as the rider holds both reins. Most of my reins are attached to make this easier. The horse is trained to respond to the pressure on their neck–lay the lead across the left side of their neck and they go right; lay if over the right and they go left.
There is no reason all horses can’t be trained to neck rein. It’s easy. You cross the reins under their chin (when teaching) so when you lay the reins one way, it pulls the bit in the correct direction. They pick up on it fast. I can literally train a horse to do this in one ride. They may suck at it, and forget for next time (which is why consistency is important), but it’s not hard. And allows for a more relaxed ride–so long as the horse isn’t nuts, mind you. I say this because long distance travel would be better with this type of technique, so it may be important for you to use in your story.
Most neck reining is looser than direct reining, as most western riders prefer a more relaxed position. In fact, the lower the horse’s head in western shows, thus making their back flatter, the more “desirable” their posture. Again, I disagree with the training methods here, but I don’t compete. I ride my horses for pleasure and actual, like, country purposes, so my horses hold their heads however they want to. Honestly, western trained horses in shows look really just… sad to me, lol.
But whatever–that’s none of my business.
You may sometimes see someone in a western saddle posting like they would in an english saddle. This is wrong. The only time I’ve ever directed a western rider to post is if their inexperienced and the horse they’re on has a particularly bouncy gate (gate: how they move). It’s really not safe to do as, if you’re not seated in the saddle in a western saddle and the horse comes to a sudden stop or jumps, you’re liable to hurt yourself on the horn or pommel. But someone who can’t stay in the saddle anyway may be posting to initially keep their balance. If you see someone posting in a western saddle, they’re either inexperienced or don’t know how to ride western.
Or the horse is just REALLY bouncy. Which brings me around to different types of horses. There are a lot of different kinds of horses and how they moves is both an individual thing, how they’re trained, and a reflection of their breed/type/whatever.
Draft horses, for example, are usually very fast trotters and don’t like to canter/gallop. It’s hard and generally not always collected because they’ve been bred to trot. I mean, they can do it, but sometimes it looks kind of silly. Some horses, like Tennessee walkers, will be trained to have a longer gate, which makes riding them a smoother experience. While other horses may be trained for certain shows, and so “high-step” their feet–pick them up really high–because I guess it looks cool. The POINT is that all horses move differently and it’s ultimately up to the rider to adapt or retrain them. The horse I grew up with was littler than all the others around her, so she does everything very fast in an effort to keep up. Yet, despite this, she’s a very smooth ride–her legs move beneath her and don’t shift as much all the way up her shoulders into her back (unless she’s pissed off). My other horse, Jester, has bowed out front legs, so when he moves, I get more of a side to side shift then a smooth one. Or “C,” another horse of mine, has bad arthritis, so he is SUPER bouncy and jolts the rider front to back more. These aren’t really things you’d include in writing, BUT every horse is different, so if that’s useful, feel free to keep that in mind.
It also depends on the rider. Make sure your back is straight and your heels are down–them’s the rules. Also, use your thighs to help keep you in place–this also helps with bareback riding. Your posture is EVERYTHING! If you’re riding the horse like you’re a sack of potatoes, you’re going to be way off balance and probably hurt the horse. Your own ability to hold your own body and move WITH the horse is pertinent. So no slumping. If you’re going faster, one may bend forward for a lower center of gravity, but that’s still not slumping. And you may lean back or forward if you’re going down or up a hill, but still no slumping.
I hate slumpers. If you can’t hold your own body up, then you have no business being in control of that animal. Disabilities are different, but laziness is no excuse.
As far as what a horse actually feels like beneath you? This is… harder to explain. Um… with “mature” people, I usually fall back on the old “sex” comparison. You move your hips with the body of the horse, which means that the bouncier the horse, the more you’re thrusting your hips to stay with them (at least when riding western). Like sex, but smoother. Sorry ‘bout it. Uh, you can also become very sensitive to taking cues from the horse’s body language as well. Like, when my horses are excited or nervous, they get bouncier, and oftentimes faster. When they’re about to go into a run, you can actually feel the way their muscles gather beneath you, and how their legs gather on the ground. It’s… hard to explain. When they’re sweaty, you can feel the heat wafting up from their bodies. When they’re listening, you can tell to what by the direction of their ears. If you talk to them, they’ll listen. Horses don’t like to be patronized, so don’t talk to them like they’re babies or like you might talk to your dog. I talk to my horses all the time (which a lot of people don’t do and should) and I treat them like I would a person. I actually do this with all my animals, even my cats, and the level of respect I get in return is astronomical.
Horses also need discipline. They’re like three year olds–give them an inch and they’ll keep pulling. You don’t have to be mean, but a firm, no-nonsense attitude will go a long way. Horses need structure and they actually prefer it that way. Horse herds have a hierarchy–this is natural. My family allows our horses to herd up (which a lot aren’t allowed to do these days) which teaches them their own hierarchy, which they then apply to others. My sister and I, while not part of their horse herd directly, are top of the pile. And they know it. They’ve learned respect both from us and from their peers. This is a very important lesson a lot of horses miss out on these days, and, in my opinion, creates stronger bonds between horse and rider.
But this doesn’t mean that when you hear about some old lady who owns 80 horses in one pasture that she’s doin’ it right. That’s BAD. One person cannot give that many horses the attention they need, which means they don’t learn who your are, which means they don’t respect you, which means they’re out of control. DON’T HOARD HORSES. I don’t even know how people afford that shit…
But anyway, you’d really have to ride a horse to know how it feels, and be around them a lot to understand them *shrugs* It’s not something you can read out of a book. For example, anyone who tells me they use a specific training method is full of shit. There are strategies, but each horse is different and requires a different degree of attention. There is no “training method,” you alter your strategy to the horse. They’re individuals, even if sometimes people don’t allow them to be :(
As far as what they’d need on a trip? Depends on how fast you’re going. A horse that’s in-shape and used to long distances could go all day at a slow pace. I mean, you should still water them, but they can go a long time. If you’re galloping, then I won’t push more than 10 miles at a consistent rate. If you’re flat out running, then even less. But it all depends on the horse. If you’re writing about long-distant travel, then it’s probably safer to just be walking or trotting most of the time, lol.
They need food and water, obviously. Have them eat when your characters eat. That’s the easiest way to write it. Unless you’re in a desert or some terrible terrain, then the horses may need more intentional breaks. Most readers aren’t going to pay much attention to that anyway.
How are they controlled? Again, different horses are trained different ways. We covered this a little bit in the beginning, but horses can be trained to do just about anything. When I want my horse to go faster, I click my tongue. When I want her to go faster again, I do it again. If I want us to go straight from a walk into a gallop, I “HA” at her. If I don’t want to make noise–like the time my sister and I ran into a pack of wolves–squeezing my legs or tapping her stomach also signals her to go. And when we’re running, the more I smack the saddle with my reins, the faster and faster she’ll go. With Jester, he’s actually trained to go from a standstill straight into a full out run with the command “HA-sssssss” and he’s also trained to turn via foot pressure. Most horses, if you pull back lightly from the stopped position, will back up (if they’re trained to). To stop them, you generally pull back on the reins.
There are TONS of stuff you can train your horse to do. My dad’s horse used to know how to dance on command for crying out loud. But I’m not into showing, so I don’t know a ton of the fancy stuff (and don’t care to), so you’d have to look that up on your own.
Getting onto the horse is easy. You always mount from the horse’s left. You slip your left foot into the stirrup and pull yourself up before swinging your right leg over. If you’re trying to help someone mount, you either tell them to do this, lol, get them a stool, or lace your fingers together so they can use your hand as a stirrup instead (sometimes really short people need help getting on really tall horses, for example). If they’re not wearing a saddle, you can use a stool or I just jump on (always from the left. A horse may get startled if you mount from the right and they haven’t been trained to do so. Unless told otherwise, assume the horse is left-side trained for mounting).
Ah, I think that answered all your questions? Sorry I can’t always be more precise. Hope it helped anyway :D
And you may hear people disagree with me on some points. I don’t deal with horses in the “typical” sense and I disagree with a lot that happens in the horse world, so some of my opinions may be, uh, unconventional. But I also deal a lot with rescue horses and damaged horses, so my view is going to be very, very different than your run-of-the-mill trainer *shrugs*
Hi, can you do a pust about bits? for some one who dont understand a lot of it, but the most complet that you can do (such as the effects on the horse). Thank you a lot.
Hiya! I’m just going to do a little bit on what I think and then refer you to tonnes of info from “thebitguide.com” because then it’s easy and rebloggable for anyone else who wants to tag the info later…
So being a dressage rider, I would only ever use the snaffle or a double bridle if i were at a level demanding it. I would never consider any bits not allowed in dressage because if you get dependent on them and then have to go do a test, you’re screwed. I distinctly remember when I was young, I couldn’t get a certain horse on the bit so my old instructor literally put me in a gag on the third/highest leverage ring and I still couldn’t, to show me that it had literally nothing to do with the bit and everything to do with me being shit lolz. So anyway.
The only snaffles I really see a point in using are either a loose ring, a full cheek (or fulmer which combines these two), or an eggbut. I’ve ridden in bauchers and eggbuts and you name it, but to me they don’t make any difference to these ones. I would pretty much only ride in either a double jointed which is an oval link, not a french link, or a single jointed bit. And obviously never wire, chain snaffles or anything like that. I wouldn’t go for plastic because it seems weird, but I’m sure there are benefits. I’m not too sure about the whole straight bar thing, but i’ll add some links on that and we can both learn :P
Not talking about the mouthpieces/bars that sit in the mouth or what’s joining them right now but here we go:
Loose ring snaffle: Generally considered the softest snaffle, for sensitive horses (provided the mouth piece is not made of twisted wire, rope, etc). The rings can move through holes in the mouth piece which can lead to pinching of the corners of the mouth.
In more detail (underlining cons, highlighting pros):
The loose ring snaffle is one of the most common types of snaffle cheeks, and generally considered to be the best style of cheek for disciplines requiring sensitive contact through the reins, such as dressage. Because the ring-shaped cheek pieces are attached to the bit by running through holes bored into the ends of the mouthpiece, the mouthpiece to move freely in relation to the rings. This allows the mouthpiece to move more independently with the tongue and jaw movements of the horse, even when the reins are maintaining pressure on the bit. This is generally considered an advantage in disciplines like dressage in that it encourages a relaxed jaw and mobile tongue, but some horses can find this freedom overly stimulating and get too playful with the bit, especially when there is no rein contact helping to stabilize the bit. The rings are also able to swivel freely in a lateral direction, allowing for clear transmission of direct rein aids, which is particularly useful with young horses. Most cheeks used in snaffle bits are able to swivel laterally, but as the name suggests, the loose ring has the least resistance in this respect.
There are two possible downsides to the loose ring snaffle that may be relevant in certain cases. Firstly, the gap between the rings and the holes in the mouthpiece can pinch horses with sensitive loose-skinned lips. This can be a particular problem if the bit is sized too small for the width of the mouth, or if the holes in the mouthpiece are poorly bored such that they have sharp edges or are significantly larger than the rings going through them. Secondly, the rings provide only limited resistance when the bit is pulled laterally through the mouth, and when pulled hard, the bit can go right through the mouth, rings and all. The larger the rings, the less of a problem this is, which is why special training bits are made with extra large rings. With more advanced horses who do not need significant help from the bit when turning, smaller rings are generally fine.
Full Cheek: Good for young horses especially, as the pressure from the bars on the side of the mouth helps to turn their heads in the direction, so you combine pulling and pushing to help steer.
For horses that need help from the bit in turning, the full cheek is the most extreme type of corrective cheek piece that can commonly be found on a snaffle. With a small ring fixed to the mouthpiece on a swivel joint, and two arms extending above and below the mouthpiece, the main purpose of this bit is to exert lateral pressure on the horse’s mouth. When one side of the bit is pulled, as in turning, the opposite side presses against a broad section of the lips and cheeks. This can be particularly useful with horses that are having difficulty learning to respond properly to direct rein pressure, and can sometimes help correct horses who tip their heads trying to evade direct rein pressure. With horses who may evade direct rein pressure by opening their mouths or otherwise making it possible for the bit to be pulled through the mouth completely, a full-cheek snaffle can prevent this problem. A full cheek snaffle is also useful when rein aids may be the main way to communicate lateral cues, such as when driving, riding side saddle, or in para-equestrian.
The biggest danger with full cheek snaffles is that posed by the lengthy arms themselves. These arms can get tangled up with reins, leg wraps, and even with the nostrils and lips of the horse. A full cheek should always be used with a restraining loop on the bridle, which hooks over one of the arms and helps keep them in a fixed position, thus preventing interference with the nose and lips. However, just as with curb shanks, care should also be taken to keep the horses’s head free of possible entanglement when wearing this bit, such as by allowing it to rub its face on items.
Fulmer/’FM’ Bit: As you can see from the image, this bit combines the lateral pressure of the full cheek with the gentleness of the loose ring.
TheBitGuide.Com didn’t have any info on the fulmer as a seperate bit so I’m taking this from a tiny little snippet online, cos that’s all I could see:
The Fulmer Cheek is a variation of the full cheek; it uses the same concept as the full cheek except the loose ring makes it a more mobile bit, so may be useful if your horse goes better in a loose ring or leans a bit but you need the full cheek there. [X]
I would assume this would be awesome because it should prevent the only con of the loose ring - its potential pinching. BUT i’m not a phycisist or an expert in leverage so having the snaffle rings go through the little holes in the sides of the hanging bits may totally change its action, so I don’t know. Also the sides seem to be bent in slightly, which I’m guessing is to reduce ability to catch on items - but if an item were to get caught on there, it might be slightly harder to get it off, if the horse is left unsupervised at least.
The eggbutt snaffle: Considered the softest snaffle after the loose ring, as far as I’m aware. Considered an improvement in many ways as it minimises the potential for pinching and any slight imbalance in pressure on one side, whether made from the rider having a stronger hand or the horse pulling, won’t allow it to go through the mouth as much as the loose ring because of the slightly straight sides. But the set rings supposedly can make it easier for the horse to set its jaw against the bit and encourage chewing because they’re so fixed. But then in a horse with over anxious chewing, this is the kind of bit you’d want.
In more detail:
The eggbutt is a common multi-discipline style of cheek piece for snaffle bits.
The eggbutt snaffle minimizes two problems that can arise with its cousin, the loose ring snaffle, whose rings can pinch the edges of the horse’s mouth, and which doesn’t provide much lateral stabilization. By flaring out the ends of the mouthpiece and joining the rings with flush swivel joints above and below where the lips contact the edge of the bit, the eggbutt can be a more comfortable alternative for many horses. The edges of the mouthpiece are less likely to pinch the horse’s lips, and because the cheek is fixed in relation to the mouthpiece, the bit offers moderate lateral control.
When the bit is pulled laterally through the mouth, there is some resistance on the opposite side, which can help encourage the horse to turn with less danger of pulling the bit through the mouth than exists with a loose ring snaffle, though more than with a d-ring or full cheek snaffle.
By having rings fixed to the mouthpiece, the eggbutt does give up some mobility, in that the position of the mouthpiece is more influenced by the movement and position of the cheek pieces than by the movement of the horse’s mouth, unlike the case with a loose ring snaffle. While this in generally somewhat of a disadvantage in disciplines that require sensitive control with consistent rein contact, such as dressage, the fixed position can be advantageous with horses that tend to play with the bit too much.
The lateral movement of the cheek piece is slightly more restricted than in a loose ring, since the metal can bind where it joins the mouthpiece. A relatively new innovative style of eggbutt-loose ring hybrid minimizes these problems by having sleeves in the mouthpiece through which the rings can pass, thus protecting the lips while having more range of movement. In either case, the bit is generally bulkier around the lips, which while more comfortable for some horses, can cause others to draw their lips back. However, in general, the eggbutt is a good, safe choice for an all-purpose bit.
The D-Ring: I wouldn’t use this simply because I don’t see the point - I could get what I need from the full cheek to provide the lateral pressure/inability to pull through its mouth, and the eggbutt to remove the problems associated with a loose ring.
The first type seem more similar to an eggbutt, with thicker cheeks and slightly lower swivelly bits (#scientificterminology)
In more detail:
A dee ring snaffle bit is a compromise between an eggbutt and a full cheek snaffle. It has vertical shanks that extend above and below the mouthpiece, and these are joined on the top and bottom by a D-shaped ring on swivel joints. Like the eggbutt, it helps prevent pinching at the corners of the mouth, though generally without as much bulk as an eggbutt, and it provides fairly substantial lateral control through the vertical shanks, though without the dangers posed by the arms on a full cheek snaffle.
Because of this combination of control and safety, the dee ring snaffle has been popular in horse racing and jumping disciplines for a long time.
As with the eggbutt snaffle, the fixed position of the cheeks and mouthpiece mean that this bit is less mobile in the horse’s mouth, for better or worse. In disciplines where high sensitivity is required, such as dressage, the fixed position is generally disadvantageous. However, with horses who need extra control in high energy situations, the tradeoff is undoubtably worthwhile. Because the shanks are longer and straighter than the sides of an eggbutt, the dee ring exerts more lateral force on the sides of the mouth, and is less able to be pulled through the mouth, thus affording more control in turning, though slightly less than with a full cheek snaffle.
With the dee rings attached at the top and bottom of these shanks, the point of rotation is somewhat further away from the mouthpiece than on an eggbutt horse bit, thus making it arguably less mobile and somewhat harsher through a slight leverage action, depending on the angle of the force applied.
Wing-cheek snaffle: I’d never heard about this until I read about it just now on this website. It actually looks pretty good, removing the pinching, but providing more mobility than the eggbutt.
In more detail:
A relatively recent innovation in snaffle cheeks, the wing bit offers extensive protection at the corners of the horse’s mouth by having winged plates on the ends of the mouthpiece that curve around the side of the mouth. Essentially acting like a bit guard, these metal plates ensure that the rings of the bit do not rub or pinch against the sides of the horse’s mouth. This type of wing is typically seen with a loose ring style of arrangement, where the ring slides through sleeves on the outer sides of the wing plates. In this respect, it is similar to the loose ring eggbutt hybrid. These type of cheeks allow the bit to have the benefit of the loose ring action, namely the bit is able to move with the tongue and jaw somewhat independently from the rein pressure on the rings, without the possible drawback of pinching at the corners of the mouth. This bit is particularly useful with horses that have very sensitive lips, loose skin around the mouth, or a tendency to develop sores around the mouth.
Because the ring is running through a sleeve, which due to its length must necessarily curve in the shape of the ring, it is not able to move quite as freely as a true loose ring snaffle. However, compared to an eggbutt or a dee ring, it certainly allows the bit more freedom while at the same time protecting the mouth. This type of bit has also been seen with a loose ring gag option.
Half Cheek: I don’t know why you’d bother with this, it could still slip through the mouth through the top. If you’re worried about getting caught on stuff, keep an eye on your horse or attach the leather keepers to the top of a full cheek…
In more detail:
Also called the “half spoon” snaffle, this type of bit is a relative of the full cheek snaffle, because it has an arm extending down the side of the cheek from the mouth. Unlike the full cheek, it only has this lower arm and it is shaped in a somewhat flatter, spoon-like shape. The principle is the same, however, and that is to provide increased lateral action when direct reining is used for turning, and to prevent the bit from being pulled through the mouth of the horse. This bit is typically seen with an eggbutt style of connection at the mouthpiece, making it also a good choice for preventing pinching at the corners of the mouth.
With only the lower spoon, the bit is somewhat safer than the full cheek, in that there is less likelihood of it getting caught up in anything, and it does not require a restraining loop on the bridle. Because of this, the bit is a popular choice in driving and somewhat in racing. As with any arms, however, there is still danger of the spoon being caught up in other tack, wire mesh, and the like, so it is important to keep the head of the horse free from possible entanglement.
Baucher: does not place additional pressure on the poll - that’s a common misconception, unless you had your cheek pieces done up ridiculously tight and pulled the bit back as far as possible. Therefore I can’t use the info from TheBitGuide because I know it’s wrong, as it believes it exerts poll pressure. Instead I’m pasting in info from @unusualtack. Since I know that it can be pulled through the mouth, because a horse I used to lease, Ice, wore one and still pulled it through, I wouldn’t bother with it.
In more detail:
Action: The baucher has an eggbutt-like ring at the mouthpiece for the rein, with an upper cheek that has a ring at its end, to which the cheekpieces of the bridle are attached. The mouthpiece of a true Baucher does not slide on its ring, though there are Baucher-like designs that do. This bit lies flat against the horse’s face, is fixed in the mouth and concentrates pressure on the bars. Contrary to common belief, the bit does not exert poll pressure unless it is put onto the bridle upside-down.
Advantages: will not be pulled through the mouth..
Uses: Not a common design, most often seen in eventing, during the dressage or show jumping phase. Also sometimes used by dressage riders. May be used in preparation for the curb bit. Is never seen in western riding, where it is illegal for show.
NOTE: the Baucher can be misused in an upside-down position, with the cheek containing the smaller ring hanging below the bit, as if the reins were supposed to attach at that point. Such positioning makes the cheek into a short bit shank, but without a curb chain, there is no poll pressure, merely a rotation of the mouthpiece onto the bars. This fitting is illegal in competition. [X]
Tom Thumb: I used this at first on Chanel, but found the side bits that the straight bars go through were massive and didn’t give as nice straight and even lateral pressure on the side of the face as the FM or full cheek did. TheBitGuide didn’t have any info on them besides a curb named that which I have a picture of down the bottom.
Double Jointed snaffles:
The Oval Link: The only double jointed snaffle I would use as the Dr. Bristol and French Link scrape flatly across the tongue. The oval part will slide more, but has less risk of pinching than a Roller joint itself. This picture is of an eggbut with an oval link:
In more detail:
The oval mouth double jointed snaffle is basically a variant of the French link, with a rounded lozenge instead of a flat spatula joining the two halves of the bit. The benefits are largely the same, with reduced nutcracker effect, more even pressure over the bars, and independent control over the two sides of the mouth. Some horses prefer the rounded lozenge as it perhaps encourages them to mouth the bit and obviates any thin edges that could be uncomfortable.
The lozenges are typically designed so that the eye hole of the jointed arms is open when looking at the bit straight on. This is different from the French link, in which the eyes on the spatula are in that position and the eyes of the arms are at a 90 degree angle. The former type of jointing would seem to be preferable, in that it would be less bulging against the tongue, but in practice, it probably comes down to individual preference.
Roller: Can potentially catch on the tongue, but could encourage salivation among horses set in their jaw. Here shown on a Baucher:
In more detail:
Rollers are a popular addition to many styles of mouthpieces today. Sometimes as little as a rotating disk set inside the center oval of a double jointed snaffle, or as much as a series of rollers along the joints or arms of the mouthpiece, the general idea of rollers is to encourage the horse to play with the bit. By moving their tongue under the bit, horses can become more relaxed in the tongue and jaw, leading to better acceptance of the bit. Whether or not rollers actually encourage such movement is, of course, debatable. However, some horses may be stimulated by the rolling action, so it may be worth trying with horses that tend to set their tongues and don’t salivate much.
Some designs can be problematic in that the roller action may lead to pinching; this can be tested by placing the bit over bare skin and applying pressure to the rings to simulate the action in the horse’s mouth. If you experience discomfort, it is likely that your horse will too. It is also important to check on current rules specific to rollers in your discipline, should you wish to compete using such a bit. Many types of rollers are prohibited in USEF competitions at this time.
French Link: Nice, but I would just use an oval link.
In more detail:
One of the more common varieties of double jointed snaffles is the French link snaffle. The two joints help to reduce the nutcracker effect of the jointed snaffle, while still allowing the rider independent control over the two sides of the mouth. It also transfers rein pressure more evenly over the bars.The French link refers to a flat spatula between the two joints, which is designed to lay flat over the tongue. This is easy for the untrained eye to confuse with the Dr. Bristol, which has the spatula angled such that the thin edge can push harshly into the horse’s tongue. Some horses prefer the rounder version of the French link, often called an oval mouth or lozenge, although the French link can be preferable for horses with less palate clearance.
Dr Bristol: Would not use/10.
In more detail:
Perhaps the wolf in sheep’s clothing of snaffle bits, this bit looks much like a mild French link snaffle to the untrained eye. However, the center spatula is angled such that the thin edge can push harshly into the horse’s tongue, thus giving this bit a more severe action than might be supposed.
Single Jointed: Has some ‘nutcracker action’. If you pull the reins backward, the mouth piece caves in the middle and sends the joint forward into the mouth and back again on release. Stronger than a double joint.
In more detail:
The single jointed snaffle is probably one of the most commonly used snaffle bits. The jointed action allows the rider to put pressure on one side of the mouth more than the other, and hence have better control over the lateral flexion of the horse.
However, with the single jointed snaffle, there is a certain amount of nutcracker action that can occur with greater pressure on the reins. This pinches the tongue, and on a horse with a low palate (or a high tongue) can also put pressure on the roof of the mouth, causing discomfort and possibly leading to resistance by opening the mouth. This action is accentuated by thinner bits, and can be alleviated somewhat by a shaped mouthpiece or a double jointed snaffle.
Straight bar/Mullen mouth: Don’t really have an opinion on this!
In more detail:
This is the only common snaffle bit that does not have any joint at all. With its slight curve, it is often considered to be a mild bit because it puts more pressure across the tongue instead of the more sensitive bars. However, for that reason it is not typically a bit that will aid in the lateral flexion of a horse’s head. Hence it is not often used in dressage, but more often as a pleasure riding bit on sensitive mouthed horses.
Because it lacks a joint, there is no possible nutcracker or pinching effect in the mouth, which also makes it milder and can be advantageous for horses with sensitive palates. These bits are frequently made from flexible materials, like rubber and plastic, which in combination with a curved shape, allows the pressure on the bit to be distributed more evenly in the mouth. There are also now differently shaped mouthpieces available, which perhaps make these bits more interesting or ergonomic for some horses.
Port mouth: Can be seen on a curb most commonly, I wouldn’t use one because it just seems to nasty on the roof of the mouth. But idk.
In more detail:
With no joint, the ported snaffle bears some similarity to the mullen mouth. However, the port acts to reduce pressure over the middle of the tongue and hence increase pressure over the bars. This bit is not as mild as a mullen mouth, and is often used as a corrective bit for horses that have learned to get their tongue over a snaffle, since the port makes this more difficult.
Now i’m tired so I’m not going to explain all of the different types of ports in curbs or straight mouths in curbs or all of the gag bits, but this website will help you out. I’ve put in pictures and names so you can explore the website or google from looking for more info on these:
Mullen Mouth Curb:
Slide Cheek curb (the above pics are of Fixed Cheeks):
“S Cheek” curb bit:
Tom Thumb curb:
‘Two link bit’ apparently comes up with this:
And also this:
Three ring gag:
Pelham (one set of reins attaches to the top ring, and another set to the bottom ring):
Other types of gag bits:
Reminder that all the info which is indented comes from TheBitGuide.Com [X] unless otherwise stated!
maya. look at me. you’re not looking at me-LOOK at me. now listen. he is nothing. josh is nothing compared to your…your…all of your somethin’, ok? you are worth so much more than he, or yourself, for that matter, gives you credit for and im not going to sit back and watch you accept less than you deserve anymore. listen to me very carefully.
you are strong. the strongest person i know, and i’m stronger than a horse and you KNOW i don’t even have to try. you’ve been through so much, please don’t let this asshole destroy you.
you are so kind. everyone that isn’t maya hart comes first. that’s who you are. granted it’s frustrating to watch you put others before you when you deserve the world, it’s probably my favorite part about you. don’t let him make you harder than you are, because you, maya hart, are the softest person i know.
you are important. you light up every room you step in to and everyone in that room leaves knowing a little bit more about what it means to be alive. you ignite people, maya. your art and your voice and your heart all bring people to life. without you, i don’t know who i’d be. you have changed my life. reject the idea that you are less now that he’s done. you were whole before him, you’ll be whole after him.
please. stay whole.
or, if lucas isnt the first one to come by maya’s side after joshaya breaks up me and michael jacobs will have some WORDS. also this is dedicated to @mayhart bc robin & barney 5evr.
The character of Lucas Friar (also known as Trashbag) is irrelevant, and here’s why:
Lucas was never meant to be some big character with lots of interests and a huge, game changing backstory.
Lucas is the stereotypical pretty boy. He feels the needs to stand up for everyone, he’s constantly complimented on his appearance, he has the same shirt in 50 different colours, and he’s the love interest of not only the lead character, but the lead character’s best friend as well.
Girl Meets World is all about a girl, Riley, meeting the world her father, Cory, has passed onto her, with the help of her best friend, Maya.
The whole idea of Girl Meets World is friendship. It’s all about the adventures Riley and Maya go through, the obstacles that get in their way and the things they experience while trying to figure out the world, while trying to figure out who they are.
Lucas is currently coming in between Riley and Maya’s friendship. He’s the only thing in between them. Lucas is an obstacle.
Lucas was never made to be the ‘Topanga’ of the story, Lucas is merely an accessory, used to show how these two inseparable best friends overcome the challenge of having feelings for the same boy.
Lucas also plays a part as one of their friends, but you’ll notice how he doesn’t have much of a personality, nor does he have much of a backstory. Sure, he’s got his whole 'stronger than a horse’/anger issues ordeal but that’s all. Apart from that one little thing, not much is going for him other than this 'Triangle that’s not a triangle’ he’s in.
The whole point of Lucas being in this series is that he’s apart of a triangle that includes the two lead female characters.
There’s been slight mention that Lucas and his father don’t get along very well, but the writers have yet to do or say anything about that.
Lucas is merely an accessory, an obstacle, another thing coming in between Riley and Maya’s friendship that they have to learn how to overcome all by themselves. Eventually, both girls will get over the pretty boy and they’ll find themselves on their next adventure.
Lucas was never meant to be some character with a haunting backstory and some incredibly personality; he was always just meant to be there to show the viewers that friendship overcomes all else. Lucas is just there for Riley and Maya to understand that their friendship should come first over everything else.
Oh and in case you all were wondering, the reason the triangle is not a triangle is because it’s always just been Riley and Maya. Lucas has no place in this. It’s not a triangle because Lucas Friar is irrelevant.
There are a thousand options out there when it comes to bits. How do you know you’re getting the bit that works best for you? what about for your horse?
Here is a handy guide on what the sizes, shapes, and mouth pieces do for us!
The cheek piece of a bit refers to the portion of the bit that lies against the horses cheek when the bridle is worn. These come in different shapes and sizes.
Dee-Ring: This is a fixed cheek piece in the shape of a D, great for gauging a new horse’s bitting needs, and is typical in the hunter show ring.
Full-Cheek: This bit has “Arms” that extend above and below the rings of the bit. It is a fixed bit and aids in emphasizing the turning aids.
Eggbutt: This bit is similar to the D ring, however it is shaped like an egg. May have a little more movement side to side in the horses mouth, but is a good option for a greener horse.
Loose Ring: This bit has the ability to move freely through the holes in the mouth piece. It is a great option for horses that press against the bit to avoid rein pressure.
Gag: This is a bit made for more experienced hands. This bit has rein attachments that thread through the cheek pieces and attach to the bridle. This encourages horses to lift their heads. These are seem commonly in polo horses.
Elevator: This bit is typically seen as a set of rings attached to each other as the cheek pieces. The cheek pieces attach to the upper ring, the reins attach to the main ring, and if necessicary, a second set of reins can be attached to a lower ring. The lower the second pair is attached, the more curb action is applied. This type of bit is good for a horse that may be very heavy on the forehand, but should be ridden with experienced hands.
Different Mouth Pieces:
The mouth piece refers to the portion of the bit that lies across the bars and tongue of the horse when inside the mouth.
Single Joint: This is the most common mouth piece. This will apply pressure to the mouth and bars, is not a severe mouthpiece, but is more effective than a multi-jointed bit.
French Link: This is a multi jointed mouthpiece that has a flat plate between the bars of the mouth. This plate helps eliminate the “nut-cracker” action of a single jointed bit and helps spread pressure on the tongue and bars more evenly through the mouth.
Dr. Bristol: This is very similar to the French Link, however, the flat piece between the bars is angled in a way to apply more pressure to the tongue than a french link. This is good for a stronger horse who many not go well in a single jointed bit.
Oval Link: This mouth piece is a milder bit than the french link or the Dr. Bristol. The middle link is rounded, allowing for some relief of pressure across the tongue.
Mullen Mouth: This bit is an unjointed bit has a slight curve to it. This is a milder bit, as it does not have the “nut cracker” action to it and helps encourage a horse to raise at the poll.
Ports: A port is similar to a Mullen Mouth, however this bit has a slightly raised area in the middle that looks like an upside down U. This causes pressure on the palate and does not allow for the tongue to soften the bits action.
Rollers: This mouth piece has pieces that roll when the bit is manipulated in the mouth. They are especially good for a horse that has a “busy” mouth.
Waterford: This mouthpiece is made up of links attached together. This causes equal pressure across every part the bit touches. This is a good mouth piece for a horse that may lean heavily on the bit.
Twisted: This mouth piece features a twist throughout, instead of being smooth. The more turns in the bit, the harsher it is when applied. A fast twist will have more turns and apply more pressure where as a slow twist will have less turns in it and may be less severe.
Snaffle vs Curb:
Snaffle: This bit is going to apply direct pressure to the rings and the rein action will be applied directly on the mouth piece.
Curb: This bit is typically more of a leverage bit. Reins attach to shanks below to apply more pressure. When the shanks have pressure applied, it tightens the chin strap and the mouth piece is applied to the tongue and bars. the longer the shank, the more pressure is exerted.
Pelham: This is the best of both worlds. A pelham combines the snaffle action and curb action in one bit. This bridle has two sets of reins: “snaffle reins” and “curb reins”. The snaffle rein attaches to the side of the mouth piece while the curb attaches to the shanks. A pelham is good for encouraging a horse to drop at the poll