south america diary

SALT OF THE EARTH: High in Peru’s Andes Mountains, members of a 600-year-old co-op harness gravity and sunlight to harvest the world’s most elemental seasoning - photography: Juan Manuel Castro Pieto - text: Katy McColl - Modern Farmer Summer 2016

  • “Members of the town’s co-op harvest a small batch of early salt crystals; they’ll return when the water evaporate and leaves behind a much larger haul. Their high hats identify the pair as mestizas, women of mixed native and foreign heritage.”
  • “Roughly 3,000 shallow salt pools cover Qaqawiñay mountain near Maras, Peru.”
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Viña del Mar, Chile
February 2017

While in Valparaiso more than one person told me that Viña del Mar was considered the Beverly Hills of the chilean coast. I had the chance to see why. I went to Viña with Laura, a fellow backpacker, to cure our hangovers from the night before which was a blur full of red wine and music. We saw first hand, although only 45 minutes away on bus, just how different Viña del Mar is from Valparaiso. Tall buildings and manicured lawns run along the coast, shiny restaurants and shops lacked the grittiness we’d come accustomed to in Valpo. This also meant that food a drinks were more expensive so we only spent an afternoon there. We enjoyed palmier cookies on the beach and washed down some yummy pizza with pisco sours. Viña del Mar is a lovely modern city.

THE MOTORCYCLE DIARIES (2004). Walter Salles directs Gael García Bernal as a young Che Guevara during his political awakening over an epic motorcycle ride across South America.