so i have to sketch in a color then lock the layer and fill black

anonymous asked:

how do you do your water color~? I cant get mine to look good in my program..

Okay, so having some nice watercolour brushes helps (here are the brushes I use.) But I think that no matter what program you have, and no matter what brushes you use, as long as you try to mimic the way watercolours behave you can get a decent watercolour effect in digital art.

Here’s an example

I present to you a sketch of a random floating head because I am a serious and not at all lazy artist.

I picked a random brush (square-edged, no watercolour border) and made sure the opacity was set to low, because actual watercolours tend to lay down paint quite thinly. When people are using actual watercolour paints, they need to think about which areas to leave white, so I tried to think about this too, but only halfheartedly.

More colours! More halfhearted leaving areas white. I coloured the hair on a different layer to the skin.

I locked the opacity of the hair colour layer, and airbrushed over the area where the hair and skin meets, using the colour of the skin. This, sort of, mimicks the way that watcolours will blend into each other while they’re still wet. The reason I locked the opacity of the layer was to preserve the white spaces.

I added two multiply layers. On one I added a bit on light red for blush, on the other I added a bit of light blue for shadow. These were done with the same square, low-opacity colouring brush I used for everything else.

Using the airbrush tool, I erased the edges of the blue shadow, again to roughly mimick the way watercolours blend.

I increased the contrast. I used the levels tool to do this, but brightness/contrast should be fine too. This highlights all the rough areas in the colouring, but I think a certain amount of roughness makes it look more like natural media, so I don’t think that’s a bad thing.

I decided I’d done a shoddy job leaving white areas on the canvas, so on a new layer (under the lines, above the colours) I used the standard pen tool to draw on some white.

I also decided the lines were way too dark, so I changed the colour of the lines from black to dark brown and set the lineart layer to multiply.

Final step, add an overlay layer on top of everything with a nice texture on it (because good watercolour paper is textured.) Don’t have an appropriate texture? No problem, here’s how to make your own in any art program that has a noise filter:

1) On a new layer, fill the canvas with a medium grey (approx half-way between black and white)
2) Go to the perlin noise filter. You can play around with the settings and see what works for you, but here’s what works for me

3) Set this layer to overlay with approximately 30% opacity (again, play around and see what works for you) and you now have a lovely texture :)

And that’s it! Quick 5-minute digital watercolour doodle is complete. It’s very messy, and could definitely do with some cleaning up, but I hope you can see how it’s starting to resemble actual watercolour.

Depending on your program there may be more things you can do to mimic watercolour eg. a brush tip with rough edges tends to look more like natural media, same for a brush tip that’s textured, your program might let you set a watercolour border on either your brush or your layer (or both) and using the blend tool can also create a nice watercolour effect. But since I don’t know what program you use I tried to demonstrate a colouring technique that should work in most art programs.

I hope this helps :)

7.27.17 // 1:30pm // beginner’s adobe illustrator pt 1

hey friends! as you might have noticed, i’ve gotten really into adobe illustrator (ai) recently and i wanted to share some of my newfound knowledge with you. i literally had no exposure to anything like photoshop or ai until about 3 weeks ago so here’s a guide for beginners written by a beginner! (this is also partially a compilation of things i wish i knew when i started) xoxo, m

ok this is super long so if you’re interested, the tips are under the cut!

Keep reading

Risk For Reward (Finn Balor) Vol. 12

Prompt: You are the new make-up artist for WWE. You have no prior knowledge of Finn or the work that goes into creating the demon. With a whole new world to discover is there room to be anything but professional? Your biggest test will be fighting your new demon(s) and showing that’s this job was made for you. Even if resisting Finn will be harder than you first thought.

Pairing: Finn Balor & Reader

Word count: 2.4k

Warning: Major smut. Balor finally arrives and shows you just how controlling and dominant he can be. It’s a minor power struggle, but he shows you whose really in charge. ;)

Those who wish to be tagged! @ambrosegirlforever, @valeonmars, @thebadchic, @nickysmum1909, @vsturgeon5489, @jade4062022, @ortonaholic, @fuckingrox, @lakama15, @southernbelle24, @wwefangirlllll, @spiderman2289

Please let me know if you would like to be tagged! I’d be more than happy to add you! :)

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anonymous asked:

youre so nice!!!! a tutorial on colors or anatomy would be really amazing! your art is so wonderful thank you

okey, here is a small anatomy thing,

of course…..i am not knowledgable in everything, annoying disclaimer aside, but these are the parts i focus on with musculature.  its important to know the more you focus on anatomy the more stiff your art may become if youre not careful!

what is painful about art is that you need to have a basic understanding of a lot of different principles and not target one area - anatomy for example, will benefit from you understanding gesture, proportions, weight distribution, etc

anatomy is not just muscle but also the skeleton!  lots of things will come into place from learning skeletal structure.  it is an undertaking but art is hard.jpg

for learning figure drawing i reference figure drawing for all its worth by andrew loomis, very in-depth but also easy to follow along for beginners

im going to put the colour tutorial under the cut!

Keep reading

anonymous asked:

O.O I saw the pencil sketch of your dragon OC on the other Blog but how did you line art and color it on Paint?!! with a TRACKPAD? ._. And how did you erase the sketch? I'm sorry I'm a n00b but could you do a tut in your spare time for us people without fancy technology? PS: I bow before your skills TT^TT

OKAY INSIDE IS A PRETTY IN-DEPTH TUTORIAL, i didn’t leave out any steps or tricks i use. possibly the most useful ones are terminating the sketch, and how to use the eraser tool to color-swap which makes the following processes a lot easier:

  • putting markings on a color while without worrying about getting out of the lines

  • putting down some shading

  • coloring lineart

  • marking behind a drawing

(if you didn’t know about that, i recommend checking it out in step 4)

Keep reading

Shauna’s super cool art process!

Okay ‘cause people have asked how I worked I’m gonna put together a lil process post for my Mari illustration to show you guys how it all looks! I’ve never done this before so bear with me, hahaha.

Step 1: Sketch!

For my illustrations I usually start off with a teeny tiny sketch that I just transform and stretch bigger to clean up some.

Step 2: Inking!

I ink using the G-nib pen in Manga/Clip Paint studio! The size of my brush varies but I try to make everything a certain thickness ‘cause I feel my art looks better with thicker lines.

Step 3: Flats!

I use the magic wand tool to select areas, expand selection, and fill in the area whatever color I want. I generally put all my colors on different layers so I don’t have to worry about coloring over something wrong!

Step 4: Air-brushing!

This is where I kinda start shading everything? I lock my layer, gently go over it with the soft airbrush tool, and darken up the area a bit. I try to generally make sure I follow the rule of light direction and etc but I’ll be honest at the end of the day for my illustrations I just want it to look as cute, shiny, and bubbly as possible while still making some sense. I just want it all eye catching! ^^;

Step 5: Shade and highlights!

Okay! Now this is where I get it all to look real crisp and shiny. On a multiply layer I go over with my G-pen tool and just put in a more solid shade (I use clip layers to do all this now so I don’t color out my lines!) and on another layer I will add in highlights.

Step 6: Color lines and add finishing touches

And finally this is my favorite part ‘cause it means I’m just about done! I will go over all my linework on a clip layer (or just lock my lineart layer if I feel like it) and color my lineart so everything looks real soft and sleek! I try to avoid leaving any black lines if my picture doesn’t use any black in it. Usually my eyelashes are left black but this time I decided to color them to match the pupil color.

I will also go over anything with more airbrushing on a addition layer if it’s not shiny enough for my desu taste. I kinda went nuts with this, ho ho! 

But that’s basically it… my illustration work is real simple. I just want to make my pieces real cute and alluring. A lot of my coloring right now is inspired by official Sonic art from a few years ago. Not gonna lie…hahaha.

I hope that helps someone!!

rebigulator  asked:

Hey! I am obsessed with how you color your art / use color. Would you ever consider doing a video tutorial or anything of that nature?

Definitely! I’ll give you a quick explanation here, and make something up later when I have the chance.

So to start out, I just want to make it clear that I DO use a lot of inefficient guesswork, that I’m really trying to get better about, so take this explanation with a grain of salt.

Anyway, I start with the sketch that I decide to go with, and clean up all of the lines with one of Kyle Webster’s inking brushes, using black as the main color, just for clarity. Then, I make a selection around the drawing using the cleaned up lines, and fill the selection (on a separate layer) with the base color of the pokemon I’m working with. Then I lock the layer into a mask and continue filling out flat colors on the drawing. I try to keep my flat colors as simple as possible, because I don’t want to muddy the image with too many details when I add the light and shadow layers later on. Again, this isnt something I’m perfect at, and still have a problem with from time to time. Once I have all of my flat colors put down to my liking, I move onto my shadow layer. I add a layer and set it to multiply, and then create a clipping mask that’s attached to the flat color layer underneath. I’ll do this for each subsequent layer from here on out so that I don’t leak any color outside of the drawing. The colors I choose for my shadow layer is USUALLY a warm color, at about 10-20% darkness, and about 20% saturation. It’ll become much darker when you use it on a multiply layer, and much richer without over saturating the image too much. This is just personal taste, however, because I just really prefer rich shadows. Now, instead of drawing in all of the shadows, I fill the entire multiply layer with the color I chose, and use a large eraser to erase the parts that AREN’T in shadow. This helps me work large, and keep me from getting too detail oriented too quickly. After that, on the same layer, I’ll choose a darker, richer color of the same hue to paint in my deeper shadows, but I try to use this color very sparingly–only where there’s a very obvious drop shadow.

Once I’m done with the shadows, I add another layer, again clipped to my flat colors, and set it to color dodge. This is for highlights, and to sparingly brighten up some colors here and there– generally at a very low opacity so that I don’t over blow the image with too much highlight. The color I often choose is generally a dark, highly saturated warm color. If you go too light (higher than 60% darkness) you get white too soon, and I try to only add white highlights on surfaces that are highly reflective, like the Magneton drawing. Using color dodge can be tricky, and I’m not saying it’s necessarily the right way to do things, but it can give the drawing a look like it’s been slightly bleach-stained, and I think that’s cool, so I choose to use it.

Then finally, I lock the layer of my line art, and fill it with a dark, saturated color that’s close to black, but not quite, because too dark can flatten the image even more than I want.

Anyway, I hope this helps! Again, I play a lot by ear in the spur of the moment, so nothing is a complete science, nor do am I trying to imply that this is the correct way of doing things, but this is the process I’ve found works for this specific project, and I’m always trying to learn other ways of doing things because I KNOW that this approach can be limiting and fickle. It just happens to be the most pleasing way for me to work. Thanks for your interest! I’ll work on making a video tutorial made when I have the software and means to do so.

anonymous asked:

I love your haikyuu drawings!! I'm so bad at coloring. Can you show us the steps you take to color your drawings? (And which brushes you use)

Aw I’m glad you like them! <3 I can certainly show how I color my stuff, though my methods are usually very experimental lately haha `v´ But I’ll talk a bit about the base method I’ve been using mostly lately! So let’s begin this little tutorial uvu

First of all! It is important to note that I only use Paint Tool SAI for all my digital art! Traditional art is a mistery to me, so I’ll only really explain the digital procedures~ `v´ This will be REALLY long so I’ll put it under a cut!

Keep reading

ty!! haha yeah I don’t do it all that much anymore bc I like the style I’ve been using lately. it kinda evolved into my current style tbh. I still use a bunch of layers, it’s just that I draw the shapes out and everything is kinda blocky round instead of sharp shapes and straight lines.

anyways first I sketch the thing. this sketch of my titan is p simple, but as you’re doing the final bits, you can add all the details

with the sketch down, I figure out the colors. As I work more on the drawing I’ll start mixing the colors at like maybe 25% increments if I need more colors.

now to drawing the lasso bits. using my sketch as a guide, I use the lasso tool to make the shapes for the diff parts of my titan and then ctrl f to fill them. 

this is the lasso tool i use. draw to add to ur shape, and hold alt to cut away at it. I start off with the titan’s undersuit thing. I tend to break them into parts so I can rearrange them later on (thighs, lower legs, torso, arms, hands…) I’ll have them all on diff layers! so 6 layers in all for the her black undersuit. 

make a layer group set to 75% so you can throw all your lasso bits in there and still see the sketch. it is v helpful keep the layer with all your colors right there so you don’t have to keep making it 100% opacity to get your colors.

it is kinda messy so just

and cut away (ctrl x) the messy part of the layer 

and now repeat for the rest of the layers

ctrl drag is your best friend here. don’t worry too much about naming layers since you can just ctrl click a part and automatically select it.

and repeat. I was working off memory here so bleh.

this isn’t as nice as my lasso draws when I was doing them a lot, but you get the idea. just keep working and drawing new bits and rearranging them as you go until u got something you like. lock layers as necessary and clip detail layers together so you can nudge the detail bits around like the main bits they’re clipped to.