sliding dovetail


Finished restoring the bodies of the last western planes on my to do list :D

They are still useless as I didn’t take care of the blades yet (the chip breakers are done though :) (^-^;)
So maybe I can take the first shavings tomorrow :D

The No. 135 hid a lot of cracks in its body behind the metal frame and to be honest this was what put it into my on hold bin (that is empty now :) and in case of the Sargent No.3408 I just had no wish to work on it for some time because
It had a lot of rust on the frame and I thought it was cracked but it just turned out to be a poor casting :D <=very common in Stanley planes as well…
The sole was kind of mushed (the sole was flat but kind of soft because of what I assume to be the result of using 40 or 20 grit sandpaper on it…) and flattening it meant resharpening the blade of my rough Kanna (HSS blade :) 4 times before I finally got to a non blunting and usable piece of wood (°_°;)
It just ate blades…
That was also the reason for tightening up the mouth of the plane because taking away so much material obviously ended up widening it a bit too much (^-^;)

The Stanley No.135 was well used and I suspect its previous owner/user didn’t notice most cracks in the body but I like to take things apart and clean them so I noticed these very quickly and felt the need to mend those (^-^;)
I don’t know how practical it is since it doesn’t have a lateral adjustment mechanism but it looks nice and I’m pleasantly surprised about the quality of the castings :o
The cutting depth adjustment mechanism cannot advance or retract the blade as much as the later mechanisms do but it feels nice and to be honest it doesn’t need to do that as you either let the blade protrude from the bottom for 0,5 mm or retract it to prevent damage to the blade or workpiece so for all practical applications I do not see this as a disadvantage to the plane as a whole :)

The only thing that bothered me a lot was that the manufacturer didn’t deburr the screws holding the cap iron and the curling piece for the adjustment mechanism :|

I like how detailed the casting of the bell on the cap is :3
I like details on things and this one is a really nice one :3

This was a good practice for making tiny bowtie splines and sliding dovetails :D
I enjoyed doing this work and I’m looking forward to using them because to be honest while I do think that the Stanley No.4 and No.3 are the most versatile planes out there and that they do a very good job at things I am tired of cast soles….
I dislike needing to put oil on the sole to keep the friction down, the black marks they leave on some woods and rust. I’m happy that I got a No.4 because it is the best plane for setting up any wooden plane I can think of.
So for this reason alone I’ll keep it and appreciate it :)

Anyway I like them and am looking forward to using them :)
Although I feel like I just worked on them because I could and not because I needed them (^-^;)
If I could I’d get a 42 or 50 mm Kanna and use it instead but those are currently not an option for me and the blades I do have are 65 and 68 mm blades :)
So having a wooden soled western plane might prove to be a good compromise for the time being :)

I’ll make some Kanna soon :D

Today I helped a friend who is learning German and she taught me some Japanese :)
It was fun but I didn’t do much else besides fixing those planes, taking an 8 km walk and eating :D

I was surprised my last article got any likes at all (^o^)
I figured it would be boring to most people on the face of the earth :D

This weekend won’t be too busy and I’m looking forward to preparing for my job interview, meeting some friends and to practice speaking English at a meet up :) 

I wish everyone a great weekend with sweet dreams, and crack free plane bodies (^-^)/


The Explosion Cabinet by Sebastian Errazuriz

Using mechanics so complex that it took more than a year to perfect, despite using the conventional sliding dovetail.


Here are some shots of the table base construction. All the mortise and tenon joinery will be drawbored and glued. I decided on gluing the joinery because the Bubinga is so heavy!
I tapered the legs and diagonal braces. The base will be charred and attatched to the base with blind sliding dovetails.
So much work!!


I fitted a kuchi ire sliding dovetail pin in my swedish steel plane. Now the mouth of my plane has an opening of around 0.4mm, allowing me to plane rather complicated grain. I made the kuchi ire of Makassar, for lack of anything else :)
The surface this plane now leaves is nearly glass like and absolutely clean!
Love it :)


I finished the top of my workbench/table :)

I still need to make the legs and the stretcher :)

The top is made from two boards of reclaimed oak and joined by 2 tapered sliding dovetails :)
The dovetails taper towards the ends so that the thickest part is in the middle (^-^)
This will hold the top tight and let the boards expand and contract freely :)
The square material below the dovetail serves as a way to secure the top to the frame :)
It is glued into grooves that I cut into the frame :)
If I had more time at my disposal I would have made a stopped dado and dovetail and hidden the dovetail and dado but I need this workbench for my new flat so I cut down on elaborate joinery and made things as simple as I could :D <=I dislike showing the joints I used (^-^;)

I had to cut the dovetails in the boards separately so I was very happy when they lined up and fit well on first try :3
I added a chamfer to the boards so I could plane small round things more easily :)
I plugged the holes in the boards using pieces I had laying around :D
I think some of the pieces are teak (the darker ones :), some are beech and some are oak :)
I had to make an oval plug as well (o_O) It was a nice oval hole I was surprised to see such a thing in this board and decided to fit a plug instead of just drilling it out and using an existing plug :D

I mounted the vice using M6 machine screws and screw inserts :)
This was I can remove it easily and use the table should someone visit me :)

I already sized and prepared the stock for the legs but I need to cut them to length and to cut the joinery :)

I hope I can finish it next week but I need tow rite 2 exams and might not be able to do it (>_<;)
If I pass both there would be only one exam left :3

Still I feel less and less able to write exams so I just hope I can pass them (^-^;)

I wish everyone a great Sunday and new week and sweet dreams of course