silk warp print

5

WARP PRINTED SILK BALL GOWN with TWO BODICES, c. 1860. 

Pink and cream plaid taffeta printed with red, green, plum and yellow floral clusters. One cap sleeve boatneck bodice with boned front and gentle point, self piping, sleeve edged in tufted openwork pink trim, back hook & eye closure, cotton lining with glazed pockets for bust enhancement. Front lacing boned bodice with jewel neck (sleeves removed) with inked provenance sewn to lining. Pleated full skirt lined in glazed cotton.

Kimono, 1920s/30s, Taishô period (1912–1926) /Shôwa period (1926–1989), Japan.

Silk, stencil-printed warp and weft (heiyo kasuri) plain weave; lined with cotton, plain weave
155 x 127 cm (61 x 50 in.)

Louise Lutz Endowment, 1997.641

At first glance, the strong geometric and rhythmic angular forms of this striking kimono display the influence of the Bauhaus, de Stijl, or Futurism. The stencil with an abstract design on view in this gallery demonstrates the pre-existing Japanese artistic inclination toward geometrical forms and abstraction. Overall, the design plays with rectilinear and curvilinear shapes and spatial relationships, characteristics of Japanese design.

4

MME. HENRIETTE TISSIER PARIS WARP PRINTED SILK EVENING DRESS, 1900 - 1905.

2-piece ivory moire faille printed with polychrome roses, the boned bodice having deep front point and short lace sleeve, trimmed with ivory satin bows, lace, and paste buttons, attached open-front printed overskirt trimmed with lace and satin bows, hem of train backed with pleated silk and ruched chiffon, satin under-skirt having bands of stitched-down self pleats and lace ruffles.