Welcome to Merlin’s Cove, set beneath the ruins of Kastel Dintagel (Tintagel Castle), a place stooped with a mix of local history and legend. The caves are really cool to explore here, and the acoustics are excellent. I could have stayed for hours longer if I didn’t have to rush for the metre…
Good evening Owner : @ahmad_alshattii Taken by : @amrography -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ Camera name : Nikon D7100 Lens : Sigma 10-20 Shutter speed : 1/60 Aperture : f 5.6 Focal Length : 20 ISO : 1600 -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ For more by Amro Khaled
Hello friends and thanks for being there, if you still are there :) if not, well for you wherever you are, good choice. Maybe I shouldn’t be here also, there’s a lot of interesting things out there. Welcome, new followers, glad to see you here.
Thank you from the bottom of my heart for all the messages and the good wishes while I’ve been out. Thanks also for all the reblogs made in my abssence.
A lot of things have happened, all kind of things, good and not so good, and I’m been thinking about posting it all here, but I changed my mind. So, lets say a lot of things happened, included a very serious flu and a lot of work, but now I’m feeling better and I’m back at my normal schedule. I’ve got a sigma 10/20 for my birthday but I haven’t had free time enough to test it and experiment with it, but I had some photos made with my old objetive and I’ll be posting them untill the new sigma is tested.
I’m happy to be back. Hope you enjoy some of my photos.
I'm really interested in taking pictures of the stars, what do you suggest I do in terms of lens type, expose time, and what times of year to try shooting?
Hey there! It depends on what kind of camera you are using for the lens… But in general the two things to look for are: 1. A fast lens which means you want the smallest possible f-value/ aperture, eg preferably 4.5 or less (smaller is better but gets really expensive!) 2. A wide lens so that you can get as much sky as possible in the shot
I use a Canon Sigma 10-20 mm lens for most of my star photos but I also sometimes use a Nikon Rokinon fisheye lens with a canon adapter if I want to go ultra wide.
Exposure time really depends on the kind of photo you want. If you want this look:
…then you want to go about 1 hour to get the long streaks. Note that the stars are circling around a central point which is the North Star so if you live in the Northern Hemisphere it is good to be able to identify that. As you can see, there is much more movement in the stars when you are shooting farther away from North. If you want a photo where the stars are just points and not moving like this:
…then you need to get your exposure time down to less than a minute. That’s where the fast lens thing comes into play as it allows you to get more light in with less time! Use a headlamp to briefly illuminate things in the foreground if you want to get super-creative :)
When setting up the shot, a helpful trick is to line up the camera where you think you want your shot to be, then take one or a few short 5-10 second pictures at maximum ISO to see if your image is in focus and the context is what you want. This is really important as there is nothing worse than waiting an hour in the cold for a photo and realizing you didn’t get the focus right!
As for time of year I would say winter hands down. Although it is cold, the sky tends to have less particulates during the winter and is much clearer. Also the sun sets so much earlier, meaning you don’t have to stay up quite as late to get the shot. But I’ve taken many nice star photos at all times of the year so don’t let the season stop you!
Hope I was able to help, Good luck with your star photos!