The ‘Endless Summer’ boys - The classic 1963 documentary that followed two young surfers, Robert August and Mike Hynson, with Bruce Brown behind the camera, around the world in search of the perfect wave. As they traveled the world, the film became a touchstone that inspired surfers to travel the globe following their passion.
What I’ve learned about life is that people may not always love you back and the timing might always be a little bit off but somehow, life always picks itself up when your back’s to the ocean. You’ll search for the perfect wave but you’ll realize that nothing’s really perfect and that nothing good will come if you’re searching for fate. My dad always told me to never ever turn your back to the ocean but I’ve always been a little naive and I was feeling lost and slightly uninspired so I thought that maybe if I stood on the beach and looked the way everyone ignores, I’d get some direction. Sometimes when you turn your back to something you love, you feel free, because often so, that very thing that you love to death is the one thing holding you out at sea when all you need is shore. I’ll tell you one thing: the wrong people are poison and the right ones are home. But it’s hard to tell the difference when your heart’s on your sleeve. You think storms are sunshine when venom’s in your brain, but that always seems to be how toxic relationships work. If I could tell myself a few months ago one thing, it would be that what you think you want, isn’t actually what you want, and you’re missing out on so much fucking life. You're missing laughter and starry nights. You’re missing sleep-filled nights and calm feelings. You’re missing peace. And no person, no matter how beautiful the idea of them is, is worth anxiety and the devaluation of your self worth. The ocean is still the ocean whether you face it or put your back to it but I’ve learned that that ideal doesn’t always apply to friends. Some people are going to hurt you. And sometimes figuring out who’s worth it and who’s not is a trial and error process. Some people look beautiful when the light hits them and touch you to the point of addiction, but addiction isn't love and the danger you feel in their presence and absence is sign the they aren’t like the ocean when you turn your back. They change. The bad news is these people will deeply affect you, the good news is that one day it won’t hurt anymore, and you’ll break free from the manipulation. Poisonous people don’t have to be forever, and I hope no one’s scared to wear their heart on their sleeve just because these people exist. Sometimes it does you good. Sometimes you learn, and sometimes it leads you in the right direction. Because I know that I have never felt more grounded than when I started to turn my back to the ocean, close my eyes, and leave my heart on my sleeve like the vulnerable person I’ve always been. I found home in some place new. I home found in calm thoughts and self acceptance. I found home in knowing the ocean is the same ocean no matter where I look. I found home in imperfect waves, and never have I ever felt more myself.