seam matching

barelytherenotallhere  asked:

Prompt: chuck clayton vowed to get Betty back for what she did to him, so he decided to humiliate her by doing something to her cheer uniform in the middle of a big crowd, juggie helped her cover up by giving her his flannel shirt...

(This is rather angsty, I’m sorry!! Hope you like it, dear!!! Thank you for requesting! <3)

With hands hidden inside the pockets of his jeans and headphones adorning his neck as usual, Jughead made lazily his way to the central park of their small town, already detecting the hordes of people that filled the historic site from a corner away. Today was a big day for Riverdale.

Today marked the 60th anniversary of the foundation of Riverdale’s very famous and very beloved varsity team, their River Bulldogs, and the town had worn its best to celebrate its athletic stars. Like any other year at this date, every street and every shop were decorated with flags and posters and banners and shiny confetti, all in the colors of blue and gold. Bakers were selling lemon cupcakes with yellow frosting and blue sprinkles, Sheriff Keller was patrolling with only the blue lights flickering on top of his police car, even Pop’s had a special menu for the day, consisting of hotdogs and fries served in blue and yellow wrappers along with a blue raspberry milkshake. The peak of all these festivities was a huge gather around at Riverdale’s Central Park where music, food and dance lasted till the small hours. Yeah, their town was crazy just like that.  

Jughead could always remember himself slouching in a booth as Pop’s at such date, gloomy and grumpy at how ridiculous and pointless such fiestas were in his opinion. However, this year he could feel a tad of excitement run to his system, just like any other high schooler or resident of this town. It wasn’t because the event was a tad bigger this year – sixty years for some reason were a big deal – nor because Chuck Clayton and his gooneys’ squad wouldn’t be the guests of honor, bragging and sporting cocky grins like always – even though that was indeed very satisfying. It was because a certain blonde haired, blue eyed someone could barely hold back her own radiating thrill and wide smile this whole passed week.

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Sewing Tips #3 - Machine Sewing Appendages

I used to always hand sew horns, ears, arms, etc onto my plushies because I didn’t know how to machine sew them onto my plushies. Turns out it’s easy, takes considerably less time, and looks much cleaner!

I’ve only done this technique with pieces with circular bottoms. I highly recommend patterning this out on a prototype plush. If you’re very adventurous and very careful, you could do this on the final plush for the first time but it’s somewhat risky.

This is a long one, so stay with me!

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:D br> I marked the vertical points where the main lineart crosses the seam, and painted it approximately. The composition turned out surprisingly well, seeing I kinda winged it, BUT after scanning I did have to make some digital adjustments to the artwork near the seam to make them match perfectly!

All right, I’m not gonna lie to you guys.  This got stuck halfway done in my drafts and I completely forgot about it.  But hey, better late than never, right?

So I love vaguely nerdy things that you can wear out in public without attracting too much attention.  Especially vaguely nerdy things that keep you warm!  If you’re after a really comfy hoodie from your favorite show that will hold up through the wash, check out the instructions below the cut!

Materials you will need:

  • 2.5-3.5yds hoodie fabric (sweatshirt fleece, microfleece, etc)
  • A small quantity of knit ribbing (x2)
  • Separating zipper
  • Dye (optional)

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Haikyuu!! cheap volleyball knee and elbow pads tutorial *updated*

So after finding out how expensive it is to buy the knee pads that looks like the ones in the anime I decided to try & make my own. These 3 pads costed me around AUD $5.


  • Stretchy fabric - I used a scuba knit fabric from Spotlight
  • Foam - I had leftover 5mm craft foam lying around; I think EVA foam would be appropriate also
  • Sewing machine, thread, other sewing materials depending on what you have & what you’re comfortable with
  • Your arms & legs

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itony-stark  asked:

I have a question(might be a stupid one), How would you do a beak? Like for a Hawk? Would it be similar to this? I am new to the the whole fursona/anthro/furry fandom(is that a correct term to use? I mean no offense!)

When you make a beak, create your beak in the desired shape from upholstery foam. Then make a pattern and cut and sew it from fleece (can be any type of fleece, blizzard, anti-pill, etc it doesn’t matter because it will be covered again). Use a matching fleece color in case of any thin spots in the finishing step, and you will be gluing the fleece down, you can use hot glue or spray glue (3M’s super 77 is ok for this) to glue the fleece. Cover that foam beak you made with the fleece, this fleece is easy to glue and will even out or hide any cuts or glue bumps. You want your beak to look relatively smooth after this step, so rework any bumpy areas if needed. 

The fleece acts as a barrier and interfacing for the foam so any cut marks from the foam carve are covered, and it will also smooth it out while being easy to sew. 

Next for the finishing step: Cut a piece large enough out of very stretchy, 4-way stretch fabric, like Lycra. Taking advantage of the stretch of your fabric, this will be what you use to hide any seams or further imperfections. When you put your lycra on, if you must sew any of it, make it as minimal seams as possible using matching thread and don’t forget to take advantage of that stretch. Use high temp to glue it on the inside of the beak, low temp will not stick to lycra.

This technique is similar to the “covered noses” technique described in my All About Fursuit Noses tutorial, the only exception is it is over a beak shape instead of a nose shape.

Don’t let any glue be on the outside “finished” surface of your beak, it is really important in this finishing technique to make sure anywhere it is glued is somewhere that is hidden, because the lycra soaks up the glue and will show an indent. Any fabric pleats need to be pulled and stretched flat so they do not show on the final mask. This technique MAY TAKE PRACTICE, so don’t be scared to make a prototype to practice with or be willing to redo it as you gain this new skill. A hairdryer undoes hot glue if you need an “undo button”. haha.

You can then tidy any glue or folds on the inside of the beak with something like black or matching-colored fleece to cover up the roof of the beak and the lower mandible. 

I hope this helps! Happy crafting!

Lucina's bootcovers

Alright, so we’re making Lucina’s boots in three pieces: the shin part we’re calling the “boot cover”, the knee part we’re calling the “knee pad”, and the foot part we’re calling the “shoe cover.” By making the shoes separate, it’s that much easier to kick off the shoes and … do whatever. I don’t know. That’s just how I chose to break it down, especially because Lucina has such weird shoes.

God damn, Lucina.

Alright, so a few notes before I show you how I started putting these things together:

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Drape Bodice Front on BJD

Here is a quick look at draping a bodice front on a BJD. (For the talented @jazzione)

I use paper towels most of the time, but you can also use a scrap of fabric as I do in the photos. Find the grain on your fabric, and mark a long straight line. Write ‘center front’ along it. I happened to have this scrap with the selvage edge so I used that as the straight center front line.

Cut a bunch of tape pieces. Mind you share some with your assistant.

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pstlwhp-archive  asked:

Hey guys, I'm sure you get thousands of asks but I'm really in a crunch and I could use your help. I'm a solo cosplayer and I've got a little under two weeks to crank out Cordelia--everything's done but the armor! Not having any trouble with anything except the chest piece. I know you used a plaster cast of your Cordelia's torso, is that the only way to do this? Do you have any tips on asembling the chest piece? This is my first time working with Worbla D:. Thanks so much for your help!!!!

Plaster-cast torsos are definitely not the only way to make a Fire Emblem breastplate. The idea came to me and Jenn when we realized that no found objects could really replicate the shape of a breast if you were to form Worbla directly onto it. Most breastplate tutorials are for low-cut “titty armour” as we Ladies like to call it. Here’s an example from Kamui Cosplay:

^ These typically involve forming breast cups over spherical shapes like plastic ornaments, and cutting them into a shape resembling a bra cup. Unfortunately for us, this kind of method really doesn’t apply to any of the Pegasus Knights, since their breastplates are pretty high-cut.

In the end we found our plaster doubles more useful as round forms to gradually hand-shape the breastplates than for patterning. For most of us, this project was our first time using Worbla too, so we’ve been winging it from the start. As such (and this goes for everyone), you may want to treat our armour posts as ideas or guidelines rather than tutorials. We’re still learning!

^ Accurate depiction of Team Pegasus Knight.

If you have someone who can help you do the cling wrap and tape method of patterning directly on you, that would work just as well. You may want to wear a slightly more padded bra for this just to give yourself some extra room.

^ Cling wrap and tape, for reference.

When you’re dividing your tape pattern into pieces, you’ll want to figure out a) how many pieces of foam you’re going to use, b) how many pieces of Worbla you’re going to use, and c) how you’re going to layer them. Try to plan this out before you cut your tape apart, if possible.

This is how I divided mine.

  • Blue: 1 piece of Worbla and two pieces of foam glued together in the centre
  • Red arcs: 1 Worbla and 2 foam each (one for the detail layer; the Worbla was formed over both pieces)
  • Yellow: 1 Worbla/1 foam
  • Green “shield:” 1 Worbla/2 foam.

You can see some photos of how they came together in the initial stages here. In all honesty, the way I divided mine was probably not the best way to do it. The more curves you need to form with a single piece of Worbla, the more you’ll need to stretch it out. This takes a lot of heat and weakens the material, sometimes to the point of tearing it, which happened with mine in one spot. There were so many divots and overheated/overstretched areas that I actually ended up re-covering the whole thing in Worbla scraps and blending it together with wood filler, haha. Unlike Sumia’s armour, Cordelia’s has smaller layered pieces that can’t cover most imperfections in the base of the breastplate.

From my experience working with Worbla in the past few months, I’ve learned that as long as you carefully match seams between two pieces, it’s pretty easy to hide that seam in the smoothing/sealing stages with wood filler and sanding. So as a rule, try not to have too many different shapes competing for the same piece of Worbla. Each piece will be happier if it’s attached to a simpler shape. Here’s how I would do it if I were to remake the whole thing:

Several of the pieces (yellow, green, red) would stay the same, but the blue from the first image would be split into 3 Worbla/3 foam - one completed Worbla/foam piece for each breast, and one for the under/sideboob areas leading to the collar. The pink piece would be a frame for the other two. The red arc pieces can cover a lot of the breasts’ seams, so the only one you’ll need to worry about smoothing out will be the centre seam.

Lastly, when you’re forming really rounded pieces like the breasts, I would advise using a piece of Worbla on the back of each one. You don’t have to do the sandwich method with two full-sized, identical pieces; you just need enough to cover the inside of the curve. Having a Worbla backing will make it a) more stable when you’re forming it so it’s less likely to warp, and b) easier for you to heat and manipulate the shape of the curve from both sides. Also, if you used any seams in your foam pieces like I did, this will help keep them together.

Best of luck finishing your Cordelia!

- Kat

anonymous asked:

I had a few questions for your wonderful Sonia costume. First, did you buy it or make it, and if you made it, what materials and the like did you use? And did you buy the blouse like it was or did you make it? Also where'd you get that pretty wig? And finally, the one thing that keeps frustrating me, where did you get your blue bow pin? I'm having trouble finding anything to use omg sorry for all the questions, I keep asking around for advice but no ones really giving a simple answer omg

Sonia Tutorial

Ah, I would love to help you, Anon! :)
First of all, I made/editted the entire cosplay. The dress, the shirt and both bows were all made from scratch. The Thigh highs were made from stockings, the brooch made editted from a brooch purchased, and the shoes painted.

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My Vault 101 Suit

Made this at the same time as my disappointment accessories, but this is no disappointment for me.

A lot of cosplayers make their vault suits out of some kind of solid blue twill, but this one is denim. I kept looking in-game and at the reference art and it always screamed denim to me, so I went for it. Pretty proud of all of the details I managed to get into it: quilted knee-pads, leather gauntlets, functional pockets(!), the folded buttoned pant cuffs, double-zipper for (ahem) easy bathroom access. All of the seams perfectly match those the Fallout3/NV vaultsuit, with multiple panels layered appropriately (not just a top-stitch suggesting separate panels).

I tried it on again recently and noticed/remembered the waist kinda sags down a bit as I move, restricting my legs some. I might add suspenders on the inside to counter that, but it’s still plenty wearable if I leave it as-is.

Really happy with pretty much all of it. (actually I’m noticing now that the back numbers are about an inch or 2 too big, nahgonnafixit) You know why? I had spent all my prep time on getting this jumpsuit perfect and that left me scrambling to get the props and accessories “done”.