Tip for Taako cosplayers (or any other costume with a prop umbrella)!!!! You can spray paint an umbrella!!! It took me days of trying out different synthetic dyes before I realized that spray paint is the way to go! I used about three (light) coats of Rustoleum satin black on the inside and outside. Start light and thin, and build your layers, letting them dry between so you don’t get drips.

So far I haven’t had any cracking or peeling of the paint, and it’s made it through weeks of opening and closing and a couple photo shoots. It’s a little bulkier when closed (I had to replace the built in strap because it didn’t fit around the closed umbrella anymore) but I find it gives a more pleasing shape to the umbrella anyway. Of course DO NOT use it in the rain but otherwise it holds up to the elements well!

Acrylic paint works for small details (like stars/galaxy designs and stuff) but covering large areas with it will eventually crack and peel and fade. Spray paint is a smoother and thinner coat that bonds to the synthetic material much better! Plus the satin finish looks really classy!

I learned a lot from this costume so I’m planning on doing like a “tutorial” series on it’s various elements. Let me know if there’s any aspects you want details on! Also expect more pics from my photo shoot soon 🌂😊


Crusty, rusty mounting hardware rejuvenation. “Pink Snot” to the rescue!

I’ve been spending some time tearing down several pieces of the 75 Imperialstars in the previous post to nest and ship to a buyer in California. As is normal for 40 plus year old drums, I found the lug mounting screws, muffler hardware, t rods and washers to be in pretty rough shape. So in this post, I decided to document the journey and do a bit of a pictorial, how-to guide on how I usually go about rejuvenating damn near barnacle encrusted hardware back to usable condition.

Here’s how the lug screws, tone control mounting hardware and washers started out. They looked to have been “rid hard and put away wet”…no seriously, like literally put away wet. Most people would just say “fuck that noise” and find some original screws. Me…I have way too much free time on my hands and ALWAYS try to salvage the original screws because it’s not like any vintage Tama screws are all that readily available. 

Be warned, this process WILL remove any of the original yellow zinc plating that is on the screws. In this case…there wasn’t much left to worry about so they are the perfect candidate for restoration.

First the lug screws…I know WTF…Life After People style…but alas, there is hope.

Tone control screws, washers and nuts…whee dawgies…totally jacked.

Washers…not too bad, but could use a good kick in the face…

First step: Slather them in “pink snot”…also known by the brand name “Loctite Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver” available in the glue and paint remover section at your local Home Depot. It gets its name because they use it to get rust off of battle ships…so this is the real deal and will gladly and chemically burn your face off if given the chance. It is also great on lug casings, chrome hoops, Titan stand hardware and steel snare shells. Surprisingly, Tama chrome doesn’t seem to mind it (nor does vintage Camco) as far as marring the finish. I love this stuff and like the Red Hot sauce ad…”I put that shit on everything!” This product is a little harsh on the sinuses so you are best off using it outside with good ventilation and blue nitrile gloves to protect your manicure. Shmear it on and let it sit for twenty minutes or so. Vigorously work the product around the hardware several times every few minutes with an old paint brush you have lost all respect for.

This is how the parts will look after they are rinsed thoroughly with hot soapy water. Any rust that remains has been turned to black carbon deposits that will need further attention. In the case of these lug screws, they were so corroded that the washers seemed almost fused together. This is a result of a build up rust between the flat washer and the threads below as the screw is pressed against the shell. This is where you grab a decent flat blade screw driver and give the lock washer and flat washer a twist to break them free from their bondage.

The tone control hardware pretty much needs just a little face time with a Dremel tool and a wire wheel attachment. If you don’t have a Dremel tool…get one! Best damn Christmas present ever. Each piece as well as the t rod washers will need to be burnished to remove any remaining deposits prior to getting a good soak in WD40. Don’t forget your safety goggles kids…a wire wheel shard in the eye sucks.

In mid process below. I also gave the fully separated lug screws and washers a once over with the Dremel wire wheel as there will be rust and corrosion in that area where the washers were stuck together. The lug screws will get yet another ride on the “Pink Snot Express” to ensure they are rust free.

I also used the pink snot on tension rods…makes them all pretty again.

The old “shake, shake, shake” in the pickle jar filled with acetone for a final rinse.

This is how the lug screws should look after the second pink snot bath, rinsing, drying and another shot with the Dremel wire wheel. Both the flat and split washers are now free floating on the screw shaft. Oh so sparkly.

Now the next part, I’ve never actually tried before. Normally I jut soak these in WD40 for future rust abatement and call it a day. However, my friend Kevin Cundy up in the Great White North mentioned in a Facebook post that he likes to shoot them with some gold metallic spray paint. I figured what the hell, I’ll try it on a few of the screws and see how it looked. The two spray cans pictured below both look like gold, but the “Bright Coat” one on the right is a bright Silver Metallic finish. I shot these test screws first with a light coat of the silver from all angles, then hit it with a light coat of the gold when the first silver coat was wet. I thought maybe the two sheens (silver and gold…not Charlie and Martin) would play well off of each other. The idea is to kind of mist it on. You can go back and hit it with a mist of of the silver again to get an even lighter mixed metallic sheen if you wish. 

Test screws close up…pretty shwanky.

I thought “Hey these look pretty fucking awesome…I’ll just do the rest of them!”

Below are the finished product on the right, with some original yellow zinc plated, super clean screws on the left. The spray coat will keep the rust at bay for the foreseeable future and make them as close to factory fresh as possible. This is by no means a perfect match and they are lacking that blue/green yellow zinc cast, but I don’t see anyone coming out with a snazzy “Popeil’s Pocket Yellow Zinc Electroplate DIY Kit” any time soon…and don’t think me and some other guys with fist fulls of fucked up looking screws haven’t researched that possibility as well.

Booosh…in just a few hours…this happened.

So the moral of the story is…yes, I do have too much free time on my hands (that’s not actually true, I have two kids which means zero free time) and even though your screws may look like total ass…they can in fact be revitalized with some due diligence, elbow grease…and of course “Pink Snot”.

Cheers and thanks for taking a look!

- jt


Corrin Build writeup?? Since I really need to document my craft stuff

Materials: 4mm, 6mm EVA foam, 2mm craft foam, contact cement(main adhesive), hot glue(mostly to keep conjoined parts from wobbling) plastidip, lightweight spackle, gold acrylic, rustoleum spray paint, 3d printing(used filler primer to fill and prime any 3d printed pieces)

1.) Closeup of chest plate (I’ll probably be resanding parts of it when I have time)

2.) The cape is 100% polyester, I pretty much just used any scissors to cut holes based off the reference, then I took a sanding sponge(regular sandpaper works fine) and roughed up the edges. That also keeps them from constantly frayin 

4.) There’s plenty of bracer tutorials out there so the base of this is pretty much easier to figure out, but the shark fin looking pieces was two pieces of foam sandwiched together. I then dremeled the top part of the piece along to edge to make it look sharp. After I contact cemented it onto the base of the bracer, I took some lightweight spackling, watered it down and smeared some along the edge where I glued the piece down. After you smooth it out, wait for it to fully dry, and sand it out, that’ll give you a nice curved edge. I thought that it’ll crack easily, but using plastidip as a sealant has kept it from doing that.

5.) Diamond shaped knee pad is just attached to the calf piece cause I’m lazy

6.) 3D printed diamond shapes! (ignore the support)
I got them printed at my university for about 13$. I then used a spray filler to make it smooth and sanded it down.

There was no worbla used at all, don’t always feel like you need expensive materials!

Always remember when building armor with contact cement, let it get a little tacky before sticking pieces together(like how you would apply eyelash glue). For pieces that will be pulled together a lot (say if you’re gluing the front and back of the chest piece together) you have to first coat a first layer of contact cement on both pieces, wait for that to dry, and then apply another layer and wait for that to get tacky and then attach the pieces together. That will make the pieces adhere MUCH easier and last longer.

(general estimate, there’s probably a few things I’m missing)
Mini contact cement x 4 = 20$
TNT EVA foam = 40$
Heat gun = 20$
Dremel = 30$
Paint, x 4 plastidip = 30$
Bodysuit = 15$
Craft foam roll = 8$
Cape fabric = 15$
Dangerous Ladies resin kit = 30$
Spackle = 6$
Sandpaper, sanding sponges = 10$
3D print job = 13$
Filler primer = 5$

243$ total

Not all gold spray paint is created equal. 

For a light gold non-brassy shimmer, Rust-oleum Champagne Mist is a good choice.

If you’re looking for a true metallic gold, nothing beats Rust-oleum Specialty Metallic in Gold.

And if you really just want a ton of glitter, give Rust-oleum Gold Glitter a shot. Seriously, nothing but glitter. It’s pretty amazing. 

Chalk up your walls. Chalkboard paint is a wonderful decorating tool - especially for those of us design lovers that like to change the look of our room on a regular basis. Available in 12 hues from Rust-oleum, consider updating a room with colored chalkboard paint and stencils. Fun, eclectic and whimsical design idea we love.


Douglas Miles at Neoglyphix 2015: Arizona State Museum, Tucson AZ

A first of its kind ground breaking show, Neoglyphix: The original all indigenous aerosol art exhibition was held on Oct. 24th. 20 artists from various tribal backgrounds came to paint. These are the photos from the piece I did and some process shots as well as visitors.
A short video is also forthcoming detailing my work here. I was honored to have been invited for the second year in a row.

Let’s talk decks and balconies for a minute. They’re such a great home feature, perfect for entertaining or relaxing on the weekend, but in older houses, the wood can get nicked, the stain can wear off and the whole thing can look depressing. As long as the deck is structurally sound, you can revamp it with something better than paint: Rustoleum Restore 4x It’s four times thicker than paint and will fill in chips and cracks, making a dilapidated deck fresh enough for bare feet again. There are a bunch of colors and it really brings new life to an older space. 



Modified Romanian AK has a mix of aftermarket parts in an attempt to modernize the platform. The scope rail looks a bit messed up but the owner/seller said he spray painted it with Rustoleum, so that explains the uneven finish. In spite it’s awkward appearance, it’s actually set up pretty decently, although maybe to tactical for some people. (GRH)


Refined reflections. Gorgeous mirror glass made to look like mercury glass brought the sparkle and shine to an evening celebration. Transform mason jars, lamps, candlesticks and almost any finish in-between to a beautiful mirror finish. Easy to make, it’s as simple as spraying Rust-oleum Mirror Glass Finish Spray Paint and letting it dry if you want a full mirror shine or dab with a wet paper towel for an aged look. It goes from a steely gray to a high-style shine in just fifteen minutes. Trust us, it works. Wonderful way to spruce up everyday accents and make them extraordinary.

What goes great with this project? A playlist. Get your weekend “To-Do” to a “Ta-Da” listening to our favorite songs this week:

anonymous asked:

How did you go about making the stick pin if you don't mind me asking?

Sorry for the delay in answering this! I’ve been really busy with work and finishing up the cosplay, and then of course Sun/Moon happened…

Warning: image-heavy messy tutorial ahead. Sorry mobile users.

The final pin looks like this:

You can also see it fairly well in this picture (not edited at all - it really is that shiny and colorful in the right light!):

For some more pictures of the cosplay, see this post.

Keep reading

Making of: Lexus the custom 1/6 Robot

I did some digging through old photos, and found a few work-in-progress pictures I had shared with Jade as I worked on Lexus. Maybe you will find them interesting! :D

She is 1/6 scale, about 29cm tall. Her body is from an Original Effect Heyar Adas doll, her head a 27cm Obitsu.

This photo was taken before any custom work had begun - you can see my chaotic work space / desk. I was lining up my 1/6 dolls for size comparison. She is between a 1/6 Threea robot boy and a 25cm obitsu custom girl.

I sculpted her ‘helmet’ with milliput and used beads and toy bits for some of her details. I originally used rustoleum flexi-dip to coat her body in a white rubbery overcoat - but the friction of the neck joint was too much and caused tearing. So that idea was scrapped in favor of a dye job.

Her body, despite being a soft rubbery vinyl, still resisted the dye. I had to soak it in a dye / acetone mix for a few hours. This trick really works, but is super smelly / dangerous. Make sure you have an outdoor or well ventilated place if you’re going to do mad science like me! I had stupidly sanded a few spots thinking it would help the body take the dye. it was unnecessary, so she ended up with some rough spots. Oh well!

Her cute lil’ face.

Her dye job came out splotchy. Mostly due to my sanding. I washed over her with more acetone and gave her a good rinse - thankfully that really evened out the dye!

She got all of her detail painting and voila! Lexus was borned. - Nico


My trident is made out of wood!  The two heads are each a single piece cut from 3/4” MDF (medium density fiberboard) and then sanded until the tines were smother, rounder and more finished looking.  I then cut out mounting holes at the bases of the heads to secure the handle (which is a wooden rod of some kind (maybe pine) that we had laying around from a previous project).  It’s important, when making joins like that, to give plenty of surface area for any glue to hold as well as distributing the weight at more than the joint, so I also mounted in some cut down threaded rod about 2-3 inches deep into both the rod and the heads.  The joins were kind of a little messy at the end, which left me either with the option of using a body filler like bondo to smooth it out or cover it up — the jewels are some decorative buttons from a local craftstore, with the button parts cut off and glued over the head/handle joins.

I thiiiink I did a base layer of brown rustoleum covered by a couple varieties of metallic, but there’s so much spraypaint around I can’t confirm which colors exactly were used.  

PROS: sturdy (it’s wood!), fairly lightweight, sturdy, sized to how I wanted instead of buying a premade trident, STURDY

CONS: all one piece with no real way to disassemble without adding an unattractive joint in the middle, so it’s kind of a local-con-only prop.

  • perlbot: Tips, lip defining and colouring, smoky eyes and nose aren’t runny, but she has a purpose.
  • thinkpiecebot: John Flansburgh will die.
  • perlbot: Tips, lip.
  • thinkpiecebot: Tips, lip.
  • perlbot: Rustoleum truck bed.
  • thinkpiecebot: Tips, lip.