Do you have an extra 30 minutes this weekend? Check out how Alex Evjen, of Ave Styles, is doing it herself, and create your own industrial style black table lamp. Everything you need to complete this project can be found at your local Home Depot, or on HomeDepot.com
Another piece down for MegaCon 2017!! I created this tutorial from scratch since, unlike with Nightwing, I didn’t have anything to start with. Below is a step-by-step description of how to make Spoiler’s weapon for your own cosplay :)
1. Two (2) ¾ inch PVC Caps 2. Two (2) ¾ inch PVC Couplings 3. Three (3) ¾ inch PVC Pipes 4. Nine (9) feet of silver chain 5. Eight (8) 3 inch pieces of silver wire (beading wire for jewelry making works) 6. One (1) can of Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X Dark Gray Spray Paint 7. One (1) can of Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch 2X Gloss Clear Spray Paint
You can ask the people at the hardware store of your choice to cut the pipes in-store, or you can do it yourself at home with a PVC cutter. I have the HDX Ratcheting PVC Cutter myself. The chain is harder to cut yourself, so I got mine measured and cut at the store.
1. Cut the three (3) pipes (P1 - P3) into 18 inch sections
Paint caps CA1 and CA2 gray 2.
Paint couplings CO1 and CO2 gray 3.
Paint pipes P1 - P3 gray
4. After the gray paint dries, spray each piece with clear 5. See the paint can instructions for drying and handling time
After the paint is dry, follow the assembly chart above.
To attach the chain:
1. Cut wire into eight sections of three inches each 2. Take two pieces of wire and tie them together to form an “X” shape 3. Lace the first link of one end of the silver chain into the “X” and use two free pieces of wire to tie the chain and “X” wire together (maintain the “X” shape) 4. Run the silver chain through each pipe so that it runs through all three 5. At the end of P1, bend the wire “X” over the sides of the pipe and secure with CA1. Remove any excess wire 6. Repeat for the other end of the chain, using four pieces of wire, P3, and CA2
If you want to use the weapon as a bo staff, simply connect pipe P2 to couplings CO1 and CO2. If you do not want to use the weapon as a bo staff, you do not need to use couplings CO1 and CO2
Lastly, I also wrapped the pipes with duct tape for better grip. This is especially useful if you’re wearing gloves. And it looks pretty cool too! Leave a little space for CO1 and CO2 to connect to P2 if you intend to use the weapon as a bo staff too. End tutorial!
Skeltie's "So ya wanna spray paint that doll?" A Guide
Is there a doll you love, but isn’t available in the color you want? Have a doll but decided you liked another color better? Ever found yourself wondering “Why can’t I just spray paint my doll?”
Many people in this hobby will tell you that you can’t/shouldn’t spray paint a doll. And although to some extent those people may be correct, often it is for the wrong reasons. The truth of the matter is, you can safely spray paint your doll – with a little research and the right knowledge.
So, before I get into the nitty gritty on this, let’s look at why spray painting your doll has been considered “bad” in the hobby.
Most people just don’t use spray paint correctly. They spray too close, too heavily, don’t wait to allow layers to dry between coats, and handle the doll before it’s ready to be touched. Not observing the proper spray painting “Rules” will give you a shiny, gloopy doll. Often, this can lead to thick layers that either dry unevenly or that never properly dry, and will instead become gummy. In short, your doll is gonna look GROSS. Unless you follow The Rules.
Most people don’t understand the science of spray paint (or paint in general, for that matter). Paint is some type of color suspended in a vehicle, solvent, or dilutant. Consider this the “base” of the paint. It’s usually water or oil of some sort. Some types of paint, whether or not they are a spray paint, are bad for use on resins, especially paints that use oil as a base. Never use an oil-based paint on a bjd. Many enamels (including the infamous nail polish) are oil based.
Okay so, @
pkmnbreedertianna asked me to do a tutorial on how I made my Splattershot Pro. I want to preface this by pointing out that I am brand spanking new to cosplay. This was the first prop I built so I was definitely learning as I went. I also ran out of time, took a bunch of shortcuts and left parts off of the prop. As it stands now I still view it as a WIP. I also took progress photos for myself never intending to make a tutorial out of ii so the photos aren’t especially instructional.
Point being? This is about to be the worst tutorial ever. But if it helps anyone it’s worth typing out.
So for anyone not overly familiar with Splatoon, here’s the Splattershot Pro I was making (but filled with purple ink of course):
Like many of my cosplay adventures this all starts at the kitchen table.
Well almost… most of my cosplay starts on my computer with tons of research. Lol
Just getting started.
So after the research I pull the best side view of the weapon I can find in to paint.net. (You can use Photoshop or Gimp, you just need a basic image editing program for this part.)
Pull your image into the editor. First erase any background around your image you don’t need it and it will waist your ink. Next go to effects - artistic - pencil sketch, and then adjust how dark you want it.
Now we move on to size!
You are going to have to get out a yard stick or something to help you judge the size your weapon should be. I’m only 5’6” so my weapons need to fit my scale, but we are all different so the size is up to you. Other things are factors too… will it fit in your car/ how are you getting it to the con, etc. Is the place you plan on taking it very crowded and you might stab someone with it if it’s too big?
After you have determined how big you want your weapon to be. Resize the image accordingly and you are ready to print! Make sure you are printing in grey-scale and you have marked print actual size. You can also make the borders on your paper as small as possible to save paper.
Putting it all together!
Tape all your pages together and you now have your life sized pattern. You are going to need other views of your weapon later on in construction but this will be the basic pattern to get you started.
I use this pattern just like a dress pattern I cut it up and break everything down in to smaller pieces that will come back together in the end.
For the sword pictured I have a PVC pipe running down the blade for the “blood channel.” I used foam core hot glued together to form the base of the blade around the PVC . Using my patterns I made the blade spikes out of heavy card-stock and masking tape. Due to the odd angles on the hilt of the sword I used JB Water weld to glue additional PVC pipes together to form the hilt and handle. As you can see in the third image, I have cardboard guides, made from my pattern, taped to each side of the PVC frame. All the spots that I need to be hollow for gems I filled in with paper. The center of that frame in image 2 is just a rolled up piece of paper not PVC.
Wiring for the lights are put in place on the cardboard guides. I left extra wire for attaching the lights and the rest of the wire goes inside the handle.
Next I put spray foam insulation all over that area. When the foam was dry the next day I started carving. I like to use a mat knife and a large bread knife to cut foam insulation, as seen in image 5.
After I got the forms I needed I started on completing the wiring for the gems. This was an odd situation with gems, because they are supposed to be spheres embedded in the hilt of the sword. I mounted the lights from the top of each hole and glued my domed gems on top making a sandwich with the light in the middle. I used foam to make spacers for the gems to sit on.
I don’t have a picture of this, but the next step in to cover all the foam parts in masking tape. This helps with the next step… paper mache. I use Elmer’s Art Paste for my paper mache its amazing stuff and super cheap. In picture 8 everything has been covered in 3 layers of paper mache. Around the gems after the paper mache was dry I put a small bit of model magic to seal them in place.
At this point you could have covered the whole thing in Worbla if you wanted to. I didn’t care too much for how this was turning out at the time so I didn’t want to waste Worbla on it. I instead finished it my old way, my pre Worbla way. I use a mixture of gesso and light weight wall spackle and cover the whole thing and you can see me doing in 8 and 9. When dry I sand it smooth. If I have rough spots I reapply and sand the needed spots.
Normally after that step I would have given it about 4 coats of wood glue. This time I gave this a layer of plasti-dip spray paint.
Next I gave it a coat of spray paint. I used craft paint to paint it and then I prefer Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear to seal my stuff.
You can see the completed sword in my other posts I ran out of space on this one. :p
Any questions I am always happy to help so ask away!
So you've probably been asked this a lot but how did you do Greg's guitar? Was it spray paint?
Okay heres how I did my Greg Universe space guitar. I used a
real guitar because I wanted to be able to play it but this tutorial
also works for rock band guitars, or just what ever non functioning prop
guitar you have.
I was lucky enough to find a flat black
guitar to start with, which was this Jackson Dinky I got on ebay for 105
bucks and it plays surprisingly well for the price.
Here is what you are gonna need for this:
Blue painters tape
an exacto knife with a fresh blade
1 can of white semigloss spray paint- any brand
1 can of black semigloss spray paint- any brand
1 can Rust-oleum “GLOSS MAUI BLUE” spray paint
1 can of Rust-oleum 2x ultra color SATIN Nutmeg spray paint
1 can of any brand Metallic silver spray paint (optional)
1 red paint pen
Lots of old newspapers
can find the paint pen and exacto knife at any craft store, the rest I
bought from Home depot after like 45 minutes of matching colors and doing test sprays to find
the closest ones to Greg’s guitar.
you’re going to want to do is take any removable hardware off the guitar.
Strings, nobs, switches ect. I took the nuts off the tuners on the
headstock but thats not really necessary unless you like to be really
detailed like me. Once thats done wiep the face and headstock of the
guitar down real good with a disinfecting wipe or a wet wipe, something
to get any dirt and grease off it from having someones hand resting on
the face for who knows how many years and then dry it really well with some paper towels.
Then you are
going to start taping over things you don’t want to get painted with the
blue painters tape. I started with the pickups and the tone switch, then
I did the bridge, the sides/back of the headstock and the tuners, Once
all that was done I ran a line of tape along the outer lip of the guitar
about half an inch wide and used the exacto knife to even out any spots
that came out too wide. After that I wrapped the neck in some newspaper
and made sure it was sealed on with more tape. and did the same with the sides and back of the guitar.
If you’ve been following along your guitar should look like this
you are ready for paint. I’m not an expert with spray painting and I’m
sure you can find a tutorial on youtube or something that will tell you
how to do even coats and how long you should wait between coats and
stuff, but anyway. I painted the headstock and face of the guitar with
the black semigloss paint and here is what they looked like 24 hours
you are going to wrap the headstock in news paper and seal it up (we’ll
come back to that later) and tape a curved line across the front of the
guitar just below the bridge and pickups, cover everything above that
line with newspaper and tape it down then paint it again with the blue
paint. After 24 hours you can remove the newspaper on the face and
you’ll have this.
step is painting the land. Section off the far left piece of blue with a
piece of tape and use your exacto to cut some ridges into the shape of
the land. You can look at a reference picture of gregs guitar or just
free hand it, it really doesn’t make much of a difference. Once its done
pull off the left side the the tape, seal everythign with newspaper
again so it looks like this
Then hit it with the nutmeg brown paint. Wait 24 hours
Now is when you’re really going to put that exacto knife to work. Take all the newspaper and tape off the face the guitar aside from the stuff you put on in very beginning. (pickups, bridge, and the outer lip) then tape over EVERYTHING. with tape. No news paper. Once thats done you are going to cut out a curved line between the pickups and the earth for the clouds. Then you are going to cut out the moon and start cutting out stars. (I used a Keurig cup for the shape of the moon) You can look at references for yourself if you want, but the stars disappear and reappear on Gregs guitar depending on the shot your looking at. I went through references for everrrr till I found them all so you are better off just looking at where I placed everything on my guitar honestly. Once you are done cutting everything It will look like this.
Now paint the guitar with the semigloss white.
This next part is optional but its what I did for my guitar. After 24 hours when the white was dry I taped off the clouds and moon and gave the stars one or two super light dustings with that silver metallic paint just to set them part from the clouds and give them a faint sparkle, Then when that was dry I taped off all the stars and taped a crescent shape off on the moon before giving that 3 or 4 dustings with the metalic silver paint. Thats how I got the shadow effect so that the moons shape changes depending on the lighting/angle its viewed from to replicate the ever changing shadow on Greg’s guitar.
Anyway, once all thats dry all you can pull the tape off of everything and view long awaited outcome of your hard work!
As you can see there was some overspray, which happens. I just taped off the respective areas and touched them each up individually. Once thats done all thats left is the do the JADER lettering on the headstock.
I used a white paint pen at first by mistake but I’ve since redone it
in RED like Greg’s guitar. I just don’t have any new pictures. Just don’t make the same mistake as me because taking the strings off again to re do it was annoying.
Anyway, one you do the lettering and it drys you can put your guitar back together and rock out. Just don’t forget to pick up a red guitar strap!
Hope this helps anyone looking to do a Greg guitar, and if you do use this write up, make sure you tag me so I can see your awesome guitars!
I’ve been meaning to have a little photoshoot in this costume at a nice beach, but the weather here in the Midwest has been just bat poop crazy..
So I figured I could take this time to put together a simple how-to for a prop I used for Anime Midwest before I move onto the next project! So here’s a rundown of what I did. :)
While I love Magi in both manga and anime, I was first introduced to the series through the manga. To me Aladdin’s staff seemed a little different in those two, so I tried to find the mid-point in making. I loved the general shape of it in anime, but Baba’s staff always felt very rough and rugged yet warm to me in manga.
My plan was to use expanding foam spray (called GREAT STUFF, easily found in hardware stores for less than $10) on a dowel rod and paper mache it just like Kamui did (my forever senpai).
I knew I was thinking in the right direction, so I jumped right in.
First, I drew and cut out the top part of the staff on a piece of cardboard. Nothing fancy, I just free-handed it while checking in the mirror to see if the size was proportionate to my height/build. The dowel rod was purchased from Michael’s for about $1. I cut a small slot out of the cardboard piece so the rod can be hot-glued in place.
The next step was so much fun! I applied the expanding foam to both sides, waiting for one side to dry before turning it over to the other. It expands (well duh), so if you think you’ve applied enough, it’s usually too much. Haha be sure to wear disposable gloves while doing this because the foam can be difficult to remove once it sticks to your hands.
After it fully dried and cured, I brought it back inside to carve, carve, carve. I just used a cheap utility knife from a hardware store, equipped with fresh blades. I had to carve a lot out, but the process went rather quickly because I wanted the staff to look bumpy and roughly carved.
There are little openings from air bubbles within the foam and/or just not enough applied to the area, but no worries!
I wrapped the entire staff with masking tape to cover up the foam and give it the first layer of strength. Again, I didn’t make any effort to make it smooth. On purpose, of course.
Wrap it up, covering all the little holes. Well, maybe not so little holes, too.. Oops.
And this is what it looks like after a layer of masking tape!
Next, I applied one layer of paper mache to the staff. I used newspaper and a mixture of white glue (more specifically, Elmer’s Glue-All) and a little bit of water added.
I originally planned to put a layer of paper mache paste (recipes can be found in the tutorials I mentioned above) after this step to add even more strength, but it felt sturdy enough to me at this point. I was also afraid the paste will make the staff too smooth and pretty, so I skipped that step all together (yay, less work!) and went straight onto applying gesso (I got mine a while ago from Michael’s). Gesso offers a little more strengthening and better adherence for painting job. The photo below is after two generous layers of gesso and then hand-sanding with sandpaper after fully drying.
The rest is simple and nothing extraordinary. I applied a layer of primer spray, then spray painted it tan (Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch Ultra Cover 2X in Gloss Khaki). I didn’t mean to use a gloss spray, but that was the only can I could find in that specific color. You can also see my flute/recorder on the side in the photo below. :)
I do not have any progress photos of the painting job, but all I did was to dry-brush acrylic paint in quick, wispy streaks to give it the wood grain look. I just used brown and black acrylic paint I had laying around from my high school days (oh boy) and painted light streaks of it using a dry brush (or with very little amount of water). I also applied some paint to the crevices to give more depths. It’s easier than it sounds, as real wood wouldn’t be very uniform-looking. One can’t really mess this up. Again, rough and rugged, rough and rugged!
Lastly, I coated the entire staff with matte clear spray. This step was mostly in order to cover up the “gloss” part of my tan colored spray.
And it’s done! The staff took 2.5 days to make, but most of that time was spent waiting for different layers to dry. I was also able to simultaneously work on the flute and the red gem all while eating and sleeping normally, so the active work time must have been less than 10 hours. The cost was around $10-15 which covered a dowel rod, a can of expanding foam, and a can of spray paint in tan color. I had the rest of the materials at home. :)
Weekends are perfect for exploring flea markets, thrift stores and yard sales. The biggest rule when shopping (besides have cash and your negotiating face on): keep an open mind. Something might not be the right color, but if the shape is beautiful and it’s structurally solid, there’s not much Rust-oleum can’t fix.
I use this, (Rust-Oleum Interior Crystal Clear Water-Based Poleurethane, Gloss Finish.) if you use that make sure you get the right one, oil based will ruin your polymer clay.
I glaze a thing and let it dry for 24 hours then I rebake it at 210F to harden the glaze, it works wonderfully. The sculpy glaze is terrible, after a year the pieces start to get dull looking and it’s really expensive for the tiny amount you get.
Chalk up your walls. Chalkboard paint is a wonderful decorating tool - especially for those of us design lovers that like to change the look of our room on a regular basis. Available in 12 hues from Rust-oleum, consider updating a room with colored chalkboard paint and stencils. Fun, eclectic and whimsical design idea we love.
no ur wonderously fabulous ;o god i can’t believe someones even asking me this lol
this was pretty experimental and i didn’t get very many good pictures i’m gomen ;v;
1: Black braided elastic (I think .36 width?) 2: ¼ yd. 20 gauge clear vinyl 3: Eyelet pliers, 2 black (or silver) eyelets 4: 12 gauge silver floral wire 5: Fimo light air-dry clay 6: Pumpkin orange Gallery Glass window color 7: Silver spray paint (Any brand, but I tend to prefer Rust-oleum.) 8: Masking tape (again any brand) 9: (Not pictured) Heat gun 10: (Also not pictured) Hot glue, hot glue gun
Everything I used can be found at Jo-Ann’s Fabrics and Crafts.
I started by making a wire frame and shaping it to my face.
Next I taped the vinyl to the wire frame and used the heat gun to shape it. The ¼ yard gives you a lot to work with so you have some wiggle room (about 4 tries) to mess around with it. You might need to put in a couple folds, as you can see on the sides and on the nose. (sorry you can’t see the vinyl but i promise it’s there.)
After shaping the vinyl and making sure it was at least somewhat solid I removed the middle wire in the front, then I painted the mask with the window paint.
After the glue dried, I used the eyelet pliers to make holes for the elastic. I just threaded the elastic through the hole and tied a knot at the end. I used the Fimo Air to make the screw thingers. After they dried I spraypainted them silver and used hot glue to attach them to the mask.
I masked out the rectangle on the nose with masking tape and paper towels to block the rest of the mask and sprayed it with the silver paint.
And that’s that! I think that’s everything… @v@ Let me know if you still have any questions!
big/little craft idea ~ paint a plastic mason jar tumbler! Instead of sanding, use Rust-Oleum spray plastic primer which creates a “rough” finish that the paint will adhere to. Then prime, trace, paint and seal your design like a cooler. You can find this style of clear plastic mug at Marshall’s/TJ Maxx/Home Goods for a low price. ♥