runway review

Though the notion of a traveling cruise collection recently gained popularity, (With brands like Dior,Gucci & Louis Vuitton hopping on the train) Chanel has been doing it since the early 2000’s.
This season, Karl Lagerfeld took Chanel (and 700 guests) to Havana,Cuba for Chanel’s Cruise 2017 collection. Karl was particularly inspired by the “cultural richness and opening of Cuba.” This season he married the joyful, upbeat spirit of Cuba with the Classic, French, femininity of Chanel. The result was one of his strongest Chanel collections in a while.

Though many Chanel collections can come off as trying too hard,this one was effortlessly youthful and wearable; flowing skirts,mini and calf length dresses, embroidered jackets and the classic Chanel tweed jacket, all done in muted colors and usually paired with white hats. Towards the end of the collection Mariacarla Boscono walked down the marble street of Havana wearing a 50’s car printed skirt and a T-shirt which says “Viva CoCo Cuba” which I’m sure will be a best seller. My favorite look was a white dress paired with a black blazer worn by Lia Pavlova.

The cruise/resort season is off to a good and fairly strong start. With fellow mega brands showing collections soon, (Louis Vuitton on May 28th, Dior on May 34th, and Gucci on June 8th) We have so much to look forward to.


- Joshua Jai on Chanel Cruise 2017 in Havana Cuba

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STEPHANE ROLLAND HAUTE COUTURE A/W 2014-15  Stephane Rolland knows how to enrapture his audience. The French designer consistently handcrafts captivating couture pieces - this makes it no surprise why he has a legion of A-List devotees as his clientele. Rolland assembles couture garments effortlessly as he balances the sharp, powerful aura of his collection with alluring sex appeal.  In his A/W collection, Rolland has designed visionary gowns by carving elaborate cuts to create risqué flesh revealing pieces. The predominant colour scheme includes black, white, scarlet and burgundy red with dashes of vibrant tones. Rolland incorporates dripping gold chains, strands draped across the chest and belts held securely around the waist. Feather details gathered at the hem of a selection of gowns add magnitude to the exquisite designs. Sculptural attributes such as the branches protruding from the bodice exemplifies the reason why Rolland is unmatched to his contemporaries.    Rolland’s trademark style of architectural voluminous shapes do not go amiss as he crafts fantasy gowns that come to life in his artistic hands. His clientele are women who desire to look provocative and to stir a sense of awe from onlookers. His adventurous designs convey fearlessness for women who dare to attract attention.  His aesthetic appeal has won over ardent admirers that value his dramatic and eye-catching pieces. There is without a doubt astonishing brilliance in his skill - he knows how to form luxurious designs that are liable to shock and excite. 
10

Elie Saab | Couture Spring 15’

Sometimes when gazing at Elie Saab designs I day dream that I am a princess, or better yet - a glamourous actress waving at my fans while I basked in how awesome I look on the red carpet. They just have that effect on you. Each gown exudes effortless confidence and femininity while always maintaining a high degree of detailed artistry. By always keeping the silhouettes simple, flattering and elegant, his designs stay very accessible. It is no wonder that the front row of his couture shows are lined with clients rather than the typical A-Listers and editors. 

Fifty-five heavenly garments made their way down the tree-lined runway during Paris Couture Week, each more lovely than the last. The fairytale like atmosphere made the perfect backdrop for the romantic jumpsuits, cocktail dresses and red carpet worthy gowns. For spring, his latest collection boasted a palette of ivory, rose, powder blue and mint with delicate ostrich feathers, sparkly appliqués and embroideries and intricate crystal beading. Towards the end of the presentation tulips and abstract butterflies ruled the runway. Elie Saab sited his mother as his inspiration for the collection.

“With every new collection I conceived, the striking image of my mother in this tulip-print silk dress reappeared endlessly.”

The final look, a rainbow-hued wedding gown, ended the show on a high note. Modeled by Anna Cleveland and dramatically spanning the width of the runway, the gown solidifies that Elie is never one to disappoint. 

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SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE ‘BIG LOVE’ COLLECTION

RUNWAY: LAKME FASHION WEEK SUMMER/RESORT 2015 

Sabyasachi’s spectacular Summer/Resort ‘Big Love’ collection was filled with 70s style statements - distinctive floral prints, jumpsuits, retro shades, disco-esque embellishing and sleeked back hair. His rich heritage intertwined with his 70s influence to create a plethora of intriguing pieces. With a total of 105 outfits designed for men and women, we were spoilt for choice with what Sabyasachi had on display.

Sabyasachi took an unconventional, yet appealing twist on the saree with long sleeved blouses, belts cinching the waist and bold prints that camouflaged the chiffon fabric. Slinky short dresses reflected the discotheque look of the 70s as pieces were dipped in shimmering sequins. Other pieces of the collection included floral decorated suits and sherwanis for men, crop tops and beautifully draped dresses. Dramatic floor length lenghas completed his captivating runway presentation. Sabyasachi succeeded in mesmerising his admirers with a refreshing interpretation of 70s style amidst blooming floral prints, an array of radiant colours and sequins galore.  

10

MANISH ARORA ‘INDIAN’ COLLECTION

RUNWAY: PCJ DELHI COUTURE WEEK 2013 

Manish Arora’s spin on Indian Bridalwear shows how he can break the boundaries by providing an alternative choice of Indian wedding garments. The collection epitomised our attraction to Indian culture and couture with Arora’s amplified take on traditional clothing. 

Trademark pieces that have been seen in his previous collections were featured heavily as part of his unconventional take on Indian Bridalwear. These include neon colours, feline motifs, hypnotic prints and spectacular accessories. He combined his distinctive elements with Indian Bridalwear to form a mind-blowing collection that reflected his eclectic style. Other key components included flaring lehengha skirts, peplum tops and applique embroidery which also dramatised the collection. 

Arora has made his name in the fashion world with his flamboyant style - he makes no excuses for delving this particular style into India’s most recognised fashion industry. This phenomenal collection exemplifies why Arora is one of the most talented fashion designers around - the lavish designs strewn along the Delhi runway gives Indian Bridalwear the much needed innovation it deserves. 

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MANISH MALHOTRA - BOLLYWOOD AND FASHION

Manish Malhotra’s name was launched into the public eye through the world of Bollywood. His illuminating designs have been represented by a number of actresses, either on screen or at events, who are quick to be snapped up wearing a design exclusively made by Malhotra himself. He started his career by designing costumes for Bollywood films, which he continues to do whilst he launches his annual haute couture lines.  

The two worlds of the Indian film and fashion industries have intertwined seamlessly as one industry endorses the other and vice versa. This combination guarantees both sides to receive high recognition. One of the ways in which actresses and Malhotra (as well as many other Indian fashion designers) become more noticeable in front of the media glare is by including Bollywood starlets to walk on the runway ramp in Malhotra’s designs. This attracts more of a media spotlight on the appearance of the actress. As one of the most prominent fashion designers in India today, it is a given that Malhotra would work closely with Bollywood to ensure the success of his fashion collections.

Malhotra’s designs are instantly recognisable with his amalgamation of traditional Indian wear with contemporary shaping and colour. The outfits he crafts enhance the female figure demurely, which in turn emboldens the individual wearing one of his couture pieces. Malhotra encompasses a range of features such as heavy embroidery, elegant frames, bold jewel tones, pastel shades and much more on traditional Indian attire. 

Malhotra undoubtedly has the ability to enhance the beauty and celebrity status of Bollywood actresses when they wear one of his creations. His designs have been represented at international events, promotional appearances, film premières and weddings, such as the wedding outfits he designed for actress Kareena Kapoor (both pictured together on fourth image). Malhotra’s name will forever be associated with the glamour and grandeur of Bollywood.  His unique style on Indian clothing has enveloped Malhotra to become one of the most sought after Indian fashion designers to date. 

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DESIGNER: MARIA B.

COLLECTION: LA ROSERAIE 

RUNWAY: PAKISTAN BRIDAL COUTURE WEEK 2014

Maria B. offers brides-to-be a plethora of trousseau wear that combines European romanticism with traditional Pakistani bridalwear components. She incorporated digital prints of 18th century French architecture which were manipulated over A-Line silk skirts and kurtas. The theme of roses was intrinsic to each design through her delicate floral detailing up to the graceful accessories. 

The essence of European romanticism in Maria B’s collection was streamed with floral headdresses ornamented with roses, feathers and pearls, elegant parasols and stunning sunset tones. She also embraced soft pastels blended in with greyscale shades. Her light to dark rendering technique across her collection enhanced the silhouette of the bridal pieces. 

Embellished detailing intertwined with the architectural digital prints added a sophisticated touch. The intricate gold and silver beading created dazzling cholis, salwar kameez’s and gowns. The loose fitting floor length gowns were made even more stunning with layers of georgette attached on the shoulders with white roses and draped behind the dress. The ethereal trousseau that glided along the runway was mesmerising. 

Maria B accentuates feminine beauty the bride beholds with her entrancing collection. The European influence mingled with classic Pakistani bridalwear features has given us a sensational display of bridal attire that amazes us. 

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Alexander McQueen ready-to-wear 2009

Definitely one of my favorite shows.
Once I heard the grungy-deep bass to an awesome opening song, I knew this was going to be an amazing show. It really set the stage for what was about to come. When the first model walked out it was like stepping into an alien world mixed with the Victorian Empire, an eerie feeling that McQueen always seems to bring his shows. With slow and sassy walks, the models really personified the fierceness and ambiguity of the clothes. Tweed, fur, oversized collars with waves of fabric, leather, ruffles, and darkness galore, Mcqueen and his models did a wonderful job. The big red and purple lips and scrap, debris, and rubbish saran-wraped headpieces contrasted the elegance of each garment and really brought the “freak” essence of McQueen to life. The mixing of different intense patterns showed a very maximal theme. The fierceness of the tailoring on every piece shows the 100s of hours that the seamstresses put into each garment. Overall 10/10 show.