i grew up a screw-up

Story time!

A few months ago, a skype video chat request popped up on my screen out of the blue. I nearly accepted it (one of my friends was notorious for doing this unsolicited at the time) before realizing that it was no one that I knew. I was pretty new to using skype, so I wasn’t aware that strangers could ping me in this way.

I tried to ignore it, wait for it to time out, but the tone kept sounding for an annoyingly long time and the call persisted. Eventually, I clicked decline, only for another video chat request to immediately spring up. I declined it again, and another insistently popped up in almost the same beat. This went on for six or seven iterations before I finally got fed up.

Like I said, I was new to skype and was not only unsure about how to block this person in between the frightening barrage of chat requests, but I was also morbidly curious as to what they wanted from me. I didn’t actually have much on my profile, just my name (which I quickly deleted after this ordeal) my age (ditto), and a shitty cartoon representation of me as my icon. So I sent this person a message over the chatroom system like ‘who the fuck are you.’

Unsurprisingly, it ended up being a dude. He apologized profusely for bothering me, said he only was looking for friends. I did not accept his contact request, despite his wheedling for me to do so. He said he was 25. (His skype profile said he was 38.) Our conversation started out cordial enough; we talked about respective employments, our favorite cities. Then he professed his love to me. (Of course.) Then he started badgering me for pictures of myself, nude or otherwise. I’d refuse to, and he would apologize, we’d change topics, but he’d consistently steer the conversation back to him asking for pictures of me. I quickly got pissed off.

Eventually, tired of refusing his demands for selfies, I started sending him pictures back. Pictures of my favorite sniper rifles. (I’ve been fascinated by war aesthetic since I was little, sorry.) When his simpering request for just one picture of me came through for the umpteenth time, I dropped an image of a PGM Ultima Ratio I got off google into the fileshare box. He accepted the file eagerly and immediately. Then silence.

'What is this?’ he asked. I told him what it was, why it was my favorite, chattered enthusiastically about range and ammo and specifications. He laughed it off as a joke, asked me what I really looked like. I sent him a picture of a SAKO TRG-42. This continued sporadically over the course of several hours. I must have sent him over fifty pictures of guns I liked, blank files that he accepted with increasingly manic desperation in the hopes of finally seeing a picture of me. His messages became discernibly nervous. I cluttered his inbox with pictures of ordnance.

He finally blocked me after I sent him an image of a Barrett M82 laid out in the desert, in response to one of his feeble demands for me to finally show my face. It’s one of the most hilarious things that has happened to me to this day.


Knights Armament SR-15E3 14.5" “SBR" 

  • on it I have a blue force gear vickers sling
  • PEQ-15 IR laser/Illuminator
  • Battlecomp 2.0
  • Surefire mini scout
  • Aimpoint T1 on a larue 45 degree offset
  • Leupold Mark 6 1-6x20mm with the CMR-W with 5.56x45mm Ballistic reticle on a Larue SPR mount


The Chinese version of the Russian SVD, the NDM-86 was available in the U.S for a short period of time before the import ban. You can find them in two calibers; the standard and more traditional 7.62x54mmR and in 7.62x51mm, which was meant to appeal to the American gun owner and hunter. It uses a proprietary box magazine.

Note the rather large optic. Instead of a standard POSP scope, this one has an 1P21, which is a larger version with a somewhat more complicated reticle. Handguards are Russian aftermarket pieces. One important thing to consider is that the NDM-86’s in 7.62x51mm have free floating firing pins. They will pierce and rupture commercial ammo. A small spring and modification to the firing pin are needed in order to safely shoot commercial ammo.

Rose her personal rifle build, based on a Daniel Defense Lightweight profile, cold hammer forged, 4150 CMV barrel. Topped off with a @Battlecomp 1.5 to have a barrel longer than 16" and make it legal in all states where AR-15s are legal

FDE anodized Elcan Spectre, 1-4X combat sight with amazing clarity, bullet drop compensator, illuminated reticle and 1.5/6MOA red dot

High Speed Gear V 2.0 Leg Rig


Long range build with the parts list by the owner. Not a 100% accurate total on cost since you can shop around for better prices. This one cost quite a bit more since the action was already complete with bolt and barrel. The chassis looks different because of the Viperskin panels.

  • Accuracy International MK III 24" .308 ($3,200.00)
  • Premier Heritage 5-25x56 FFP Gen 2XR Reticle ($3,500.00)
  • Badger Ordnance 34mm Rings ($200.00)
  • Atlas Bipod ($250.00)
  • Accushot Monopod ($90.00)
  • Victor Company Viperskins Panels ($150.00)

Total Cost = $7,390.00


Ruger 10/22 Survival Rifle

My goal with this rifle build was to have something rugged, light, and compact for hunting small game in all weather conditions.

  • Swapped original blued barrel with a new factory stainless barrel.
  • Tactical Solutions stainless barrel retaining V-block.
  • Butler Creek folding stock with a double layer, single strand paracord wrap to make it more comfortable to shoot in cold weather.
  • Volquartsen TG2000 trigger guard assembly for a crisp clean two pound trigger pull.
  • Volquartsen firing pin and extractor.
  • Power Custom extended bolt handle and recoil spring assembly.
  • Leupold Rifleman base and Leupold quick-release low profile rings.
  • Nikon Prostaff 4x32 fixed power scope with duplex reticle.
  • Promag barrel band with two short picatinny rail sections for mounting a Surefire light on a Mako quick disconnect mount.

With variable power scopes becoming increasingly more popular in the past few years being able to use the scope effectively throughout its entire magnification spectrum is the end state. For the most part this only applies to those that are true one power, like the SR-4C and SR-8C that I helped develop with US Optics.
I mounted upwards of three dozen scopes on AR style rifles in 2014 for various people. Generally, from out of the box to shooting it’s a sub 15 minute ordeal, here’s how I do it;

Put the scope on max power and using the ocular lens set reticle focus so that it is crystal clear to your eye. Do this while holding the scope to a white and well lit background. The sky works good as does a plain white wall in the house. Keep in mind that if anyone else looks at the reticle it may appear to them to not be in focus, this is the natural differences in each person’s eye and perception. Always do it for you.

Set the parallax knob (if applicable) for max power and at the yard line you’re zeroing at. Remember that parallax changes as magnification changes for different distances. Typically speaking, all the modern variable powers have a fixed parallax and this isn’t a concern.

Use quick detach mounts only on AR style platforms (have back up irons too), I believe Bobro makes the best one I’ve ever seen and I use them on all mine. They have an ingenious 1 inch elbow Allen wrench that prevents over torquing of the scope ring screws. For bolt guns I swear by Badger Ordnance rings. They have been the standard for me and mine for well over 20 years.

Choose a rail slot for your QD mount and place the scope in the mount without rings and simply hold it with your thumb as you determine eye relief. This is the longest process in mounting the scope. Adjust variable power scopes from max power down to one power to determine the best eye relief and the best rail slot for the QD mount.

The biggest piece of advice that I have is that true one power scopes need to be mounted a little further forward than what most people would do on a scope that doesn’t have true one power, like a 3-9 or such. The reason for this is so that we can take advantage of the fact that the scope does have only one power, e.g.- we can shoot it as fast as a red dot at close distances. In effect, we basically want to get the same look that you have when using an aimpoint or any tube style red dot (see Picture) That said, scope shadow makes very little difference on one power when using a daytime visible red dot or a dark ring, ala a modern-day RDS. When people mount a variable power scope that has true one power too close to they’re eye they can never get the speed out of the optic that is possible.

Note the position of the scope in the mount and attach one ring with two opposite located screws just for holding it in place so that it doesn’t move.

Use a level or pitch indicator to plumb if you have a flat area on your scope, otherwise you can use multiple products on the market for plumbing the scope.

Once plumb, use blue Loctite and begin and X pattern tightening of the four screws on the rings. Alternate between two opposite facing screws on the front ring and two opposite facing screws on the rear ring and maintain an even gap between rings and mount. 15 inch pounds for the screws on the rings. 60 inch pounds for the nut on traditional scope rings (if applicable)

Paint Mark the rail where your QD mount goes.

Zero at 100 yds.