The collars worn by both Egyptian men and women were composed of two main parts: in front, a broad collar (called “wesekh”) decorated with floral elements, and a v-shaped counterpoise (called “menat”) falling behind the neck to balance the weight of the collar. Such a combination was not only used as decoration but also as a ritual instrument by holding the “menat” in the hand and rattling the beads of the collar.
The three-dimensional depiction of “wesekh” and “menat” combined with a divine head became an important symbol. The head of a feline goddess atop this model collar indicates that it is intended as a personification of her powers, conveying in its decoration the ability of the lioness both to protect and to nourish the king. Her dual nature is evoked by her stern and watchful face on the front side, and by her representation as a mother suckling a young prince on the reverse. This precious object may have been produced for someone of the royal family.
The aegis is made from hammered gold sheet. The edges of the gold sheet are cut using a chisel. The head and disk are raised and the halves soldered together. The head is filled with a bulked unidentified resin. The resin is yellow in color. The bulking agent is probably calcite.
I painted and brought these to Resin Rose, but sadly they didn’t find someone to go home with - so here they are!
All heads are legit, and they have been painted by me, Semiotickitten, using doll safe materials and MSC. They will be packed safely and shipped 2-day Priority, with full insurance, for domestic, and EMS for international. I will NOT underdeclare or ship without insurance, sorry! I do not charge paypal fees.
Please read everything carefully and feel free to ask questions! I will not offer refunds or returns, everything is sold as-is.
Fairyland Feeple Nanuri 2016 elf head in NS. Will not come with any neckpiece or donut, head only. She has beautiful gold accents on her upper lip, eyeliner, and freckled gold across her cheek and temple. 200usd, US domestic shipping included.
Doll in Mind 2009 Event Head. This head is quite old and has some staining, but I feel like I really brought out how cool he can look! His previous owner called him a Cruel Prince, and I definitely see it! He is unfortunately not fitting in around here, so I’m hoping someone will find him as cool as I do! Asking 60usd, US domestic shipping included.
April Story Eternal Winter Sleeping head, is a really stunning androgynous looking sculpt, so I tried to paint them in a way that could read that. They do come with their CoA card, I can take a pic if you need it. 150usd with US domestic shipping.
SoulDoll L-Heart head, this head is discontinued and probably yellowed, but in really great shape! He does have a CoA, pics upon request. 150usd, US shipping included.
Doll Chateau Hugh in the old resin yellowed WS. This has has seen some better days, and is old, but has a cute, fresh faceup to help him find some love! Please be warned, there is some staining and stuff in his lips and the tear ducts, if you remove the faceup. This is not a new head! 60usd with US domestic shipping included.
I live in a non smoking house with pets, I do not have a car, and work nights, so shipping and replies may be slow.
If you don’t already know, SHIGI AND I ARE BUYING A HOUSE! The closing date is at the end of June and we will but moving our crap during July! In preparation we’ve not only been cleaning and packing, but de-cluttering as well. I’ve gone through my stash of BJD stuff and put a lot of thought into what I can let go of. I have multiple things for sale, and I will be making further Sales posts after this one.
Fairyland Realfee June Faceplate in Normal Skin: $40 + shipping
I purchased a full Realfee June from Denver Doll on 12/28/2016, but I only ever intended to keep the body. I am selling the faceplate and it will include the magnet “feathery ears” as well as magnets that still need to be glued inside his head. I will NOT include the original CoA but I will send a copy of it along with him. He has never had a faceup.
5Stardoll Tumnus Head in Normal Yellow Skin (with mods): $50 + shipping
I am the second owner of this handsome boy, purchased on DOA back in April 2016. I had plans for him but they changed, and I don’t have a reason to keep him around now. The original owner did the mods: pierced ears and widening the eyes a bit. They told me that the resin has also yellowed considerably. He has magnets in his forehead but does not come with horns, I didn’t receive them when I bought him. While I’ve had him, he has done nothing but sit in a box. This is an SD-sized head and looks to be discontinued. I do not have a CoA for him.
Doll Family-A Luca in White: $80 + shipping
I received this little guy with my last Alice’s Collection order, received in April 2017. He’s never been painted, and the eyes are included.
Sakura & Paper Hamster in white: $60 + shipping
I received this little guy with an Alice’s Collection order I got in August 2016. Never been painted, the eyes are included.
Resinsoul Tiny Carrying Case: $20 + shipping
I got this bag with the YoSD body I ordered from Resinsoul last year. Thing is, the body itself fits just fine in the case but with the head it’s too big. So this would be appropriate for dolls smaller than YoSDs, I think.
Dollheart MSD-sized Dress: $60 + shipping
No pieces have been lost from the original outfit. It was worn for a few months before getting put back in the box for good. It’s still in mint condition, no damage or discoloration. It will also come in its original box.
That’s all for this post! All items come from a smoke-free and pet-free home. I will happily take more pictures upon request, and of course let me know if you have any questions. Items will be shipped from Seattle, WA, USA.
With Fabrication done it was time to get painting and detailing done. Everyone has their own way of sealing foam up, Personally I use a spray paint black primer and do 2-3 layers.
Normally after that I use model paint acrylics but because of the details on the paint job I added a silver spray paint base. It was a good call because when I made a mistake with the acrylics not only could I fix it with a wet q tip, I could also use the q tip removal to do the actual detailing on smooth edges.
I would later glue tinted fabric to hide these edges
For the cracked chest I taped the underside with several layers of clear packing tape and then poured yellow resin on top carefully moving it around to fill the gaps. Once it dried I was able to peal the tape off from the underside creating the effect.
Most of the gold effects I actually used a gold flake pen for. You can find them near the spray paint in most stores. First time using one so I had to go back over with a little silver to fix the mistakes you see here. But the gold flake pen worked better than expected over the paint.
Next came the gold edging. I’m a big fan of using 3d puff paint (t shirt paint) for these. The bottles usually allow you to do lines fairly well and the paint remains malleable for a bit allowing you to go back over it (Next to it with careful force) with a small tongue depressor to smooth edges.
I still hate my paint job on the cracked breastplate. But the other turned out pretty well. Puff paint for edging and acrylics for the middle.
For the Gerudo fabric I took some white fabric scraps I had and sewed them together and turned them inside out to be long strips. Then I took some earl grey tea, and used the used the tea bag to stain each strip twice. Allowing them to dry in between staining. Tea coloring can’t be beat for that weathered look on fabric/parchment.
I went back to the puff paint for the designs after fabric gluing the strips into the design I needed. However I applied the puff paint with a paintbrush instead of pushing it out allowing for a flat design that still pops. You need to clean your brush immediately if you do this or you’ll really hafta scrub it to clean it later as puff paint likes to stick in the bristles. But its an effective application method.
Skip forward a bit applying the puff paint edging to ALL (Frickin heck) pieces I added small gems I bought and glued them on before taking the puff paint and dabbing small drops all around them for the flowered effect. (They sink as they dry). This shot was done before applying that to the front 2 gems.
Having tested out the fitting of the leather underneath it was time to glue both the leather and the fabric on to the shoulder piece. I used fabri-tac glue after roughing up the leather a bit for a better hold.
Also took this moment to finish the back detailing. Dammit almost none of you get to see this but I know its there!
The details of the cape was going to be too much to duplicate freehand for me… so I made a stencil…
The circle was for reference.
I needed to secure the stencil more before using the gold spray paint. However I would go back later with black puff paint and sharpen all the edges of both sides of the spray job. Turned out better than I had hopped in the end, and saved a ton of time.
I would fade the edging of the puff paint better with another coat.
time to focus on the undershirts. A child’s sweatshirt turned into the top armor, I doubled over some fake fur and rolled the edge before sewing both on and then sewing the red thread that is present on the sleeves.
Velcro is your friend! The Armguards attach directly to the Gerudo cloth which was sewn unto the undershirt. Its a fast way to add them as the last piece of armor without needing to ‘attach’ anything around your cat’s (Pets) sensitive legs.
Both shirts done. The longsleeve goes on first with the sweatshirt on over.
The neck piece has a simple piece of elastic in the back. It was more comfortable for the cat than attaching it to the breastplate properly so this decision was made even if you can see fur on some pictures.
Next we did a test fitting to see the placement of the velcro for the chest piece…
and also the velcro placement for the shoulder piece to latch unto.
Once we had that all figured out and the velcro secure. I attached the cape to the leather under the shoulder as I had left a small piece near the collar not glued down.
Finally was sewing the eyebrows unto the wig. I pulled wool yarn apart and styled it around strings to make the rolled hair look. Each strip of hair attaching to a thin piece of foam. For the sideburns I rolled pulled yarn around with glue on the foam. Then I glued the loose fur on the backside and pulled it back in a flair. Afterwards I made a head harness with elastic and leather that glued on under everything securing solidly.
There is a plastic jug side holding the painted foam in place with the edges sewn unto the base. the metal rods actually hold both sides and are secured via the head harness that was glued on. Each gem was sewn to the chain and then hand sewn to the wig after being attached to the large gem.
The eyebrows are connected via a small piece of thread for easier posing.
It slips right on over his chin and ears, you hafta fix the whiskers immediately but I gave his ears plenty of room so it wont irritate him.
And there you have it. A truncated 2 part tutorial of the process we went through to bring you all “Ga’nyan’dorf”
I’ve been putting off posting about this for a while now, but I’m seeing more and more people sticking stickers on dolls most likely inspired by me. I started putting stickers and human bandaids on comet ¾ years ago, I am not the best doll owner at all. I don’t usually research things before I do them and just spontaneously modify my expensive dolls as I please. But I’ve noticed that the glue used on the stickers and bandaids can cause the resin to yellow quicker and unevenly. Resin is a very porous material and it absorbs things a lot easier than one would think. Some glues used on stickers and Bandaids are very difficult to remove without some sort of glue remover product which in itself can be bad for the resin. I once left nail polish remover on my dolls head for a little too long and it legit melted the resin around the eye. Chemicals in general are not good for resin so I just thought I’d finally say something about it and to please not just do as I do, I’m very irresponsible with my dolls. I’m a really bad senpai. Lol. I will continue to stick shit on my resin krew bc it’s my style and like I said I am not a good dolly patent.
Gaby’s Green and Cream Racetrack Ensemble - The Man From U.N.C.L.E.
This may just be my favourite ever movie outfit. Everything about it is perfect! Unfortunately, there are very few elements of this outfit that are available for purchase (and the ones that are cost a lot!) but it’s just too lovely to skip.
The dress is another original design by film costume designer Johanna Johnson. Similar to the orange camo play dress, it has the most beautiful cutout design in the back and it is such a shame that you never actually get to see it in the film.
The dress is also paired with a long cream coat which, considering the co-ordinated green panel on the inner collar, is more than likely another piece designed specifically for the film.
She also has the most lovely bright yellow small Delvaux Brillant bag.
She wears the same Theirry Lasry Milfy 101 sunglasses as the orange play dress outfit.
I was unable to find exactly which hat she is wearing but it is a fairly generic broad brimmed, white felt design with a ribbon trim.
The shoes she wears with this outfit are a pair of low block heel white and silver sandals. Once again, these look custom made.
Finally so far as her jewellery, she once again wears the second black pearl/listening bug engagement ring that Illya gave her, the same random vintage butter yellow resin ring as well as these gorgeous oversized lucite hoop earrings.
So there you have the full outfit! For a break down of her orange camo play dress outfit check out my other post here. Also, if you wan’t to keep track of all the other outfits I post about in the future please follow. I will also be eventually be posting “get the look for less” suggestions as well as an analysis of her hair and makeup.
Thank you so much for the article and info to the Unoa staff, in particular berrydoll, that give me the permission to share it to you all!
Unoa dolls that have been recast:
we don’t have any pictures sadly but at least I hope this helps.
As of writing, these are the dolls and parts that the recasters have available, so these are the sculpts to be especially careful with.
Unoa Chibi: Funwari (large chested) body and small chest piece. All hands except the clasping ones, I think. They have the Roron default, Roron Sleep, Lilin Pout, and Lilin Roar. They also come with the teeth (except the vampire), the unicorn horn, bunny ears, and the pointed ears. They also have the low heel shoe parts.
Unoa 1.5: Body, both chest parts, cat ears, mule sole parts, horns, and default hands only. The plates they have are Sist/Lusis defaults, Lusis wink, sleeping Lusis, and Akubi (o-face).Unoa Zero: Body and all plates (different recasters have different ones though), resin shoe parts A note on different recasters: There are three big recasting companies that do unoas.
I won’t name them. I will instead be referring to them as S, P, and B. Making a ‘safe’ purchaseThere’s no 100% perfect way to make sure you won’t get scammed, but in general, unoas are fairly safe to buy if: The doll comes with the original boxFaceplates include the slip of paper from the original packageIt’s a mold or a part that the recasters don’t have The color looks consistent with what you expect AND the owner can explain what year it was purchased in, and show some proof of previous ownership dating back to pre-2013
How to tell a recast unoa from a legit unoa
Color: The first and best giveaway is the color. None of the recasters have the unoa color right for ANY of the different resins that have been offered by AL or Hobby Japan. Recaster S has a ‘normal skin yellow’ that is supposed to look like Volks, but it’s waaaay too yellow. It can be very close to the yellow of a very yellowed old skin, but the translucency is a bit wrong, and the resin is too slick and smooth. Some of the oldskin dolls ARE a bit shiny and don’t weigh much, but there is still a difference in the feel of the resin. Super yellowed old normal skin from AL yellows to a creamier consistency than recaster S yellow. You might not notice on just a plate, but you’ll see it on a whole doll.Recaster P has a volks normal skin, but there’s too much pigment for a unoa. I’ve never seen a Recaster B unoa, but the quality of their minifees suggests that even if they got the color right (which I doubt), the resin quality would still be different.None of the recasters has a white skin that comes anywhere near fairy skin. Recaster P has a “zero skin” meant to look like the Hobby Japan fairy skin release, but it’s still got way too much pigment.
Resin Quality: Recaster P has great resin. It’s actually nicer than plenty of legit companies. But it’s definitely not like AL resin. It’s a bit toothier and heavier. They don’t have nearly as many plates either (only sist and lusis), but I can see this one being a bit hard to tell if you don’t know AL resin very well. Their resin is a bit more translucent. They do sell dolls on Yahoo Japan, so BE CAREFUL. Recaster S and B have slick smooth light resin. It’s maybe one grade down from Doll chateau, but of a similar quality. It’s plasticy and a bit more translucent than legit dolls. Mold Defects: Recaster S has overused their molds, so their Lusis is looking pretty rough these days. If you see a lusis online for sale, check out the mouth. The inside of the lip is very rough. Other recasters don’t have this flaw, so you can’t count on it, but it’s something to look for.
Weight/Size: I find that this isn’t a very good indicator. A recast unoa from P and an AL unoa weigh about the same. There isn’t a huge amount of shrinkage. Bottom Line: If you are not sure about the legitimacy of a unoa online, DON’T BUY IT! There are a whole lot of recast unoas and parts out there, and it’s difficult to tell them apart in pictures. It really sucks for the second hand market, but that’s the situation. If you NEED a unoa and can’t find one you can be sure is authentic, buy new from AL.
I personally add: the intern of the doll! when you’re not sure, ask a photo of the inner part of the bust or the legs for exemple, recast are often not accurate.