resin tutorial


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If you wanted to work with resin for your next cosplay, but weren’t sure how to get started, this video is for you! Even if you’ve worked with resin before, I’ve included some tips and tricks for veterans that are worth checking out. 

Primer, Paint, and Sealant


I got a lot wrong here! I don’t have time to go through and edit/rewrite/relink this right now, but until I do please look at this post from @ohicosplay

I’m really sorry! I’ve made a good amount of props, but I haven’t had as much experience with them as I have other aspects of cosplay/costuming. I did as much research as I could to make up for the lack of expertise, but…it wasn’t enough. Thank you OHI Cosplay for the corrections!


It can be overwhelming to try and select the right kind of supplies for a project, so it’s best to start small. These are some of the most commonly used primer, paints, and sealants for props:

Kinds of Paint

These are divided into two classes (primers often use the same kinds of bases as well):


This is what you should be using. Initially designed as the poor man’s oil paint, acrylic is is easy to use, durable, and has a nice finish when dry. It is, however, more expensive than water-based paint and a little harder to clean (but not by much).

When you buy a can of spray paint, the actual paint you’re spraying is usually acrylic-based.


Poster paint is water-based. It dries quickly, is easy to clean, and cheap. It doesn’t have the same smooth finish and lifespan as acrylic paints, though.


You know that scene in The Adventures of Tom Sawyer where he has to whitewash the fence? That was pretty much priming. You’re completely covering up the materials you used to make your prop, blocking out any of its original color and smoothing out the surface so the paint looks the same way on the prop as it does in the bottle.


Very easy to use, provides great coverage, works for several different kinds of projects, and goes a long way. If you apply it in layers you’ll cover up any bumps in the surface of the prop. You need to sand it to make it smooth.

Paper Mache Clay

Requires a little more skill than gesso to use, but allows for molding and sculpting. It totally covers the surface of your prop. You will need to sand this as well.

Paint primer

This doesn’t cover up any bumps; it only blankets the color of the building material. Paints and primers share the same kind of bases (water, acrylic, oil, etc.). You should try to match your primer to your paint, but acrylic primer will work for most projects.


This goes on last and is essential to any project. It makes it waterproof, protecting both the paint job and the material used to build the prop. Sealants range from matte (don’t reflect light, like paper) to glossy (reflect lots of light, like glass).

Modge Podge

Also used as a glue, this sturdy and glossy sealant will become your best friend. It really is one of the best products a crafter can have.

Spray Enamel

Works surprisingly well for how cheap it is. It’s extremely easy to use but will get cloudy if you touch it before it’s dried completely.

Casting Resin

Also used to make props, resin dries very hard, helping add support to relatively weak crafting materials. It’s a favorite for paper-based projects.

With the selection narrowed down, it’s a little easier to choose what to work with. You can find all of these at any craft store.


A new tutorial video for making eyes with UV resin is up on my YouTube channel! I’m making anime-style eyes for Dollfie Dream, but of course you can make traditional round style designs as well. Small note, I forgot to mention the lighter is used to remove bubbles near the surface of the resin. I hope the video is helpful to everyone who wants to make lovely resin eyes :)


Resin Gem Casting tutorial by ThePropLady. The video is actually part 2 about the mixing and dying stage.

See Part One about choosing molds:

And Part Three about releasing from molds and backing:


My very first youtube video on my new channel is up! I hope you all like it. :D


Finally got around to making my casting video, outlining how I made the molds and cast the bow arms for my latest cosplay (which in turn is very similar to how I made Valeera’s daggers.) I tried to include as much as possible to make it easy to follow, but if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

DIY Resin Bracelet With Helpful Hints

Resin is a very adaptable medium with various applications one of which allows you to make some truly one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces. This tutorial requires a little investment but places like Hobby Lobby and Michael’s run coupons in newspapers regularly. Also, your steps may vary depending on what resin you use so I’d caution you to read the instructions that come with your resin as well.

Anyways, you will need:

Clear Casting Resin

Mold (specifically made to cast resin)

Measuring Cup (disposable or one you’ll only ever use for resin crafts)

Mold Release

Rubber Gloves


4 Popsicle Sticks

2 Small Cups (disposable or ones only for resin crafts)

Paper Towels

Sanding Paper

What you want to cast in the resin (glitter, snakeskin, sprinkles, sea shells, flowers, etc.)

To prep, spray your mold with mold release and let dry. This will take a few minutes. If you’re casting a piece of paper or a picture paint it with a few coats of glue and let it dry because the resin will make it transparent otherwise. Also, you may want to take the time to warm your resin in water for about 15 minutes. This prevents bubbles from setting in the resin and obscuring your piece. However, if you’re going to use something like glitter you can skip this step. This is only important if your piece will remain clear.

Now you’re ready to mix your resin so put on your rubber gloves. Using your first popsicle stick, measure out how much hardener you want and then pour it into your first little cup. Next, wipe out your measuring cup and measure out an equal amount of resin with your second popsicle stick. Pour it into the same little cup as the hardener. Wipe out your measuring cup.

Now, using your third popsicle stick vigorously mix the hardener and resin together for two minutes. Counting in your head is sufficient if you are so inclined. After the two minutes, pour the contents into your second little cup. Mix the contents together for an additional minute with your fourth popsicle stick.

The resin is now ready to pour into your mold. However, if you’re using something like glitter or sprinkles you’ll probably want to mix it together in your second little cup before pouring it in your mold.

When it comes to sprinkles and glitter you will want to keep an eye on it for a little bit to make sure it doesn’t all settle in the bottom of your mold. If necessary, swish it about with your fourth popsicle stick to keep it mixed up until the resin becomes fairly gelatinous. You may even want to pour more glitter or sprinkles on top after you’ve filled your mold with the resin mixture.

When casting something like a piece of paper or a snakeskin even pour a little amount of resin in the mold then put in your paper or whatever using your fourth popsicle stick to push it into position. Pour the rest of the resin on top. You may need to make some adjustments but that’s fine.

Let your piece set for about 24 hours before you remove it from the mold. At a bare minimum let it set over night. It will need about 48 hours to completely harden though. Anyways, after you remove it from the mold then you’ll need to use your scissors and cut off any excess. Then use your sanding paper to smooth the edges to your satisfaction.

Now you have yourself a fancy one-of-a-kind bracelet. Your friends will be jealous I’m sure. =)

Lastly, here are a few things I’ve learned from working with resin that you’ll benefit from:

I mentioned warming your resin beforehand. If you don’t you’ll see all sorts of little bubbles that could potentially ruin a piece.

It is also incredibly important that you get your proportions correct when mixing. If you don’t you’ll end up with something incredibly flexible that will never properly harden.

You will read on the internet that you can use cooking spray instead of mold release. It’s a lie. It will give your piece a horrible cloudy appearance and it will essentially be worthless. Don’t be cheap on this. Mold release goes a long way. Coupons are your friend.

Wear gloves. You don’t HAVE to but resin is really sticky and obnoxious to wash off. Further, it may even give you a small rash for a few days. Nothing serious but it does irritate skin.

Well, I hope this little tutorial was helpful. As always, if you have any questions or comments please contact me. =)


Make the Glass Sword from Skyrim

I just worked out how to make these solar system lollipops! But I don’t have any spare resources to actually make these with, so I’m just going to type it out for you guys instead… Like, I haven’t actually made this yet, I just found the edible photographs online after seeing this pic and wondering how the hell they printed something inside lollipops and worked out the rest. I’m GONNA make this though… For something… Eventually.

All you need is a miniature 2 part ice ball mold, lollipop sticks, sugar/flavoring/a candy thermometer… And edible photographs, the kind that Walmart puts on top of those printed birthday cakes.

I wonder if you can just go to Wal-Mart or Publix or another big grocery store that has a bakery that does photo cakes, and ask to get a photo on a USB printed out for you? They have to do it anyway to make the cakes… Maybe they’d even give you a free sheet if you put all the designs on there.

Anyway, you get little 1cm diameter solar system planet images printed out on a sheet and cut them.

Then boil your candy to the hard ball stage on the thermometer, add hot sugar to half the mold, let it set a bit, then place 2 photographs of the same planet back to back with the lollipop stick in between.

Then pour in the sugar to fill the rest of the mold so the picture is right in the center,. And let it cool. And SUCK ON URANUS 💩

You can do the same exact thing with resin, so when you see little resin cast jewelry that curiously has a photo of a galaxy right inside, that’s probably how it was done. It’s so much easier than trying to paint a 3D image inside the resin, I COULD make them but I’d rather try to figure out how to layer a 3D planet on its own using just pigment and resin. Because that’s NOT easy and it does look way cooler. I’m getting real close now 👀

…but if I ever did put photos of the planet inside my resin gems they would probably look EXACTLY like these lollipops 😂 Send me an ask if you want me to make you a custom one, lol.

The Harrowing Tale of the Jaeris Gun: A Cosplay Tutorial-ish?

I always meant to post something about this and never got around to it. So now, about three years after the fact, here’s a play-by-play of how I made my prop of Jaeris’ magic gun for my Atop the Fourth Wall Gunslinger cosplay.

(This is also part of something I call my “Lightbulb Collection”. That’s a collection of all the things I have attempted to do that didn’t turn out right. The fact is that if you set out to be a crafter or a seamstress or writer or an artist or an engineer or anything else really, you are going to mess things up. Getting stuff wrong discourages a lot of people, including me, and if I can’t do something marginally right the first time I’m tempted to just not try again. But that’s part of growing. If you’re going to get good at anything you are going to spend good time, good money, and perfectly good materials fucking up, whether you have them to spare or not. I keep this Lightbulb Collection around to remind me what I’ve fucked up and what I can learn from it.)

My first instinct was to just buy a prop gun. I mean, Lewis got his from somewhere so there must be one available, right? NOPE. Nowhere could I find the damn thing. I searched online, eBay, Amazon, I even went to every flea market in a 50 mile radius (also questing for the pocket watch) because some of them deal in knives and small arms, and no luck. I am a stickler for accuracy in my cosplays. The closest thing I found was a replica India brass flintlock on and, which at the time were retailing for about $50. “But Spark!” you say. “That looks just like the gun in the show!” Well it’s close but there are some differences. Just enough to annoy me.

The little knob on the bottom is missing, for one thing. The edge of the trigger guard is different too, and the decorative brass comes up the hilt in the front and back in the show as opposed to up the sides of the hilt. The replica’s barrel is round with ridges and beautifully engraved, but Jaeris’ barrel is smooth and actually kind of octagonal. Jaeris also has a little bump where the barrel reaches the edge of the gun base (there are probably names for these things, but I am not well-versed in flintlocks). So I wanted something more accurate than the replica and $50 was more than I wanted to shell out at the time. So let’s make one!

This is probably gonna be long so I’ll put it under a cut. On to the crafting!

Keep reading


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Check out my first-ever resin tutorial! This one just covers the basics of necessary supplies, how to mix, pour, and cast clear resin! Keep an eye out for my next tutorials!


Part 6 of my Forgeworld Tau XV9 Battlesuit tutorial: Weathering the Base

Some of the images here are going to be larger than the previous series as to help to see everything in detail.  I’m going to leave the base alone after this and tomorrow start working on the XV9. 

I’m glad everyone is getting a kick out of this project so far and I always get a kick out of sharing all of my secrets with you all when I do something like this for sure!  Tomorrow I’ll put up a quick series on prepping the resin…a necessary evil.



nonbinarybb8-deactivated2016042  asked:

hey, hey, i kinda wanna get into the resin charm making thing but idk how really and just looking it up is confusing my autistic brain. could you explain how you have done it (like what you bought and the process)? its fine if you cant or dont want to.

No problem at all! Please keep in mind though that I’m a total beginner! The pics I posted were literally my first time working with resin so I’m still going through trial and error but here’s what I’ve done so far!:

And this is how:…

Keep reading