Comic Book Page Technical Specifications

This is a post for comic book artists preparing their pages for their publisher or colourist. I’m aware that many pros still don’t know some of this stuff, often because the bigger publishers have production teams who will take the incorrectly sized or shaped pages and adjust them before passing on to colourists or for print. However, this a) is giving more work to people that you can easily do yourself and b) reduces the amount of control you have over how your work is printed. It makes sense to provide files that will present your work in the best way possible.

So, the basics of a digital page file:

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How big should you make your art?

I’ve noticed some digital artists out there who just kind of guess when choosing the dimensions of their artwork. Trying to understand ppi, dpi, print dimensions, and resolution can send you down a rabbit hole of complexity likely to break your brain.  

If you are creating an image only for the web, it is really up to you how big you want to make it. The only relevant dimensions are the pixels. Print size and pixels per inch are of no consequence. A 1920x1080 300ppi image will be the same as a 1920x1080 600ppi image. Your screen only cares about pixel dimensions.

If you plan to print your image, that is where things can get complicated.

Here is the simple version…

First you need to determine the maximum size that your work may be printed. Here are the most commonly used sizes for poster prints. 

Now you need to know the brand of printer that will be used. Typically it will be Epson, HP, or Canon.

For Epson printers…

  • Input the width and height. 
  • Input a resolution of 360 pixels per inch.

For Canon, HP, and most other printers…

  • Input the width and height. 
  • Input a resolution of 300 pixels per inch.

So let’s say you are in photoshop and you want your art to be printed at 11" x 17" on an Epson printer. This is how you should create your document. 

If you do not know how your work will be printed, I recommend erring on the side of “too big.” If you end up having to enlarge your work, it could result in some quality loss. 

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Sony Vegas Editors: Disable Resample is Your Best Friend

If you’ve edited in Sony Vegas for a while, I’m sure you’ve heard other editors mention “disable resample.” What is it and why is it necessary? Allow me to educate!

What is resample?

In basic terms, resampling is changing the input of a video file into an output format. This can range from changing the video size and ratio to what I will focus on today: Frame rate.

In Vegas, there are three frame rates that you must know.

- Your input file

- Your project/preview file

- Your rendering/output settings

If your input file is 24 frames per second (fps), your project file and rendering/output settings need to also be at 24 fps. This helps tremendously with motion masking.

When your input file fps is different from your project settings, Sony Vegas ends up slowing down your clips. This can cause huge issues with motion masking when you are entirely dependent on masking from frame to frame. 

In addition to this, Sony Vegas has a feature called “Smart Resample” that is the default setting to put on all clips. There is a built in lag within the Sony Vegas program so in order to make up for this, Smart Resample installs motion blur to blend the frames together. However, this often results in added slowness to the clips and a sharp drop in quality when the project renders. The frames will become compressed on top of each other as they blend. This is what editors refer to as “ghosting” or “ghost frames.”

In the first example, you can see the outline of a frame over another frame. That transparent outline is the “ghost frame” and should not be there. That is what slows down your clips and will reduce the quality come rendering time.

The second image is what the clip should look like in a normal frame.

So, how do you prevent ghost frames?

Step 1) Right click on the video layer of your clip. Then, click on “Properties.”

Step 2) When the Properties window comes up, click the “Disable Resample” option.

Step 3) Click “OK” to confirm.

Please note, if you’re using this method to change clips to “Disable Resample,” you need to do this to every individual clip you place in the timeline.

In addition, make sure that your output and project fps matches with your input video’s fps.

To check your project fps, look at the video preview section of your Vegas window.

It will list both the “Project” and “Preview” fps along with the ratio of the project file. 24,000 p is the fps of this particular project file. If the fps of your project file does not match the fps under the “Properties” window of your video clip, it needs to be changed.

To change the project fps, there are three ways to open the “Project Properties” window.

Method 1) Click on “File” and go down to “Properties.”

Method 2) This is a shortcut method if your video preview area is already displayed. Click on the square icon with the arrow inside of it. It is located to the top far left of the video preview area.

Method 3) Just hold down the “Alt” and “Enter” keys on your keyboard at the same time. The window will pop up that way.

Once the “Project Properties” window opens, go to the “Frame rate” area and click on the drop down menu. Change the fps to the same number as your input clips. In this example, the video clip is 24 fps so I changed the frame rate to 24 fps in the project.

Next, hit “Apply.”

Then, hit “OK.”

Finally, when it comes time to render your project, bring up your “Render As” window.

When the window pops up, go to the “Template” area of the window after you make sure that your “Save as type” is the right type of output file you want. Click on “Custom.”

Once the “Custom Settings” window comes up, go to the frame rate area of the “Video” tab and select the same fps you used on the project file. Again, in this example, the fps of the input and project file is 24 so I select 24 fps here.

As a bonus, if you’re editing an AMV, you want to go to the “Project” tab and go to the “View Rendering Quality” area. Click on the drop down menu and select “Best.” This ensures that your project will come out looking the best it can when it renders.

Click “OK” once you’re done adjusting your settings and watch the magic happen!

Hopefully, this tutorial helps out some editors who have been stressing about quality drops in their final product. If you have any questions about this tutorial, feel free to send an ask! Happy editing!

ilsagace  asked:

Hi, I really like the character you are working on. I wanted to ask you how do you achieve that cool pixelated effect on the textures?

Hi @ilsagace thanks for asking! Sorry for the super late response, I’m still catching up to messages.
I’m not sure whether you are referring to the crisp shapes on the textures or the fake lighting shader so I’ll do my best to briefly go over both, but please do ask for more clarification if you need it.

Because my textures are all flat shapes and were either drawn out straight with the lasso tool or filled in over and over while trying to figure out the palette they ended up with pretty sharp lines. The actual full resolution before scaling down looks like this:

Then when bringing the diffuse into Unity the import settings are switched to “point” in the filter mode, which turns off any automatic smoothing Unity will try to do for you. In addition you can switch off mipmaps if you need something to still register as crisp from a distance (and there aren’t too many objects in too large a scene).

If making textures more pixelated is your thing, point filter mode will continue to solve that for you. Excuse the messy results, but I scaled down the diffuse map here at a couple of sizes as an example (using both nearest neighbour and bilinear resampling).

The results below are to show the difference the point filter mode makes and look pretty dirty, but if you were going to make pixel textures by hand I think with purposeful texturing and some carefully aligned UVs on a model it would make for a nicely clean and attractive result.

If its the lighting shader you wanted to know about, it’s like a ramp shader at its base, taking the information on how to overlay a texture over the main diffuse.

I’m still pretty new to shaders and don’t want to risk giving incorrect information but there’s a lot of information on using ramps out there and Unity provides an example script here.

The layers of shadows, or the “cel shading look” is achieved by making ramps that are themselves made up of sharp blocks of colour:

Last thing I can think to note is to remember to take light attenuation into account if you are using a scene with multiple lights and need the distance of the light from the material to have an impact. In my scene I’ve currently only got a single directional light so don’t feel I need to bother with it just yet.


Icon tutorial + feel free to use the icons

I’ve been asked by several people how I get the affiliate and network icons so sharp in some of my groups, so I decided to write a tutorial. (This will also work for your tumblr dash icon.) I’m using Photoshop cc for mac, but I’m not using the mac shortcuts here, so it should work for PC users as well.

This is pretty basic stuff, but it’s a wordy tutorial so that anyone with less photoshop experience should be able to follow along. 

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anonymous asked:

Your line art always comes out so clean and crisp. Are there any tips you could pass along on how you control your digital line art? Or which brush you prefer you to use? Hope that's not too vague, I just really admire your work.

Here are some tips off the top of my head, hopefully they’re somewhat helpful.

  • experiment with stabilisers (I rarely use them but stick to the 0-5% range when I do)
  • increase the minimum opacity of your brush or use a hard brush for consistency across your lines
  • draw on a large canvas, it will hide smaller imperfections

For reference, here’s the last Anju sketch at 100%:

  • resample your image using the bilinear format when you resize for posting

You can check out my brushes tag for tool recommendations.

anonymous asked:

hey i was wondering how you make your pixel arts have a high quality and large size? love you and your art! (sorry bad english :c)

hi !! thank you so much for loving my art and also me wow !!

to make my pixel art larger without quality loss, in photoshop i increase the size by even 100%s (usually 300%) and select “Nearest Neighbour” for image resampling!

it should look like this:

thanx and have a nice day sweetie ! <3


A mix to define Asuka Langely Soryu’s battle with Arael; girl vs machine. Featuring tortured female-fronted voices soused in fear and anxiety-ridden lullabies, evoking sensations not unlike hearing a mother speak from under several layers of heavy industrial and vocal machinery. Resamples and distorts classical poetry; dialogue and music from Episode 22: At Least, Be Human/Don’t Be for a sound that is distinctly Evangelion. Dedicated to sohmer/starros.


prologue / THE LAMB - john taverner (ft.) baile

rising action / LOVIN YOU - hagan x minnie riperton | GUIDANCE - madi larson x ajgor | SKINNY (NOVUS REMIX) - bones | STRETCHED OUT - abbi press | SEVEN SEALS - cvrl (ft.) Øfdream | LOTA - saphir and ben fox | WHEN I DIE - beya lekhari | DO YOU LOVE ME? - hikikomori 

epilogue / ADDER(F)ALL - tei shi

anonymous asked:

How do you get your gifs to be so clear? Mine always come out all lq. I love your blog so much 💞

ah thank you!! sorry, my ps is in russian but i’ll try to explain

1. while resizing the image the method of resampling is important 

i prefer bilinear but i suggest you play around yourself and see what looks best in your opinion (also the differences will be more noticable) 

2. psd + sharpening 

without psd and sharpening:

with psd (i like to darken blacks and reds) and sharpening (i use an action but i know some people prefer to keep sharpening more subtle)

3. saving settings are actually very important too because sometimes settings that work for one gif won’t work for another

anonymous asked:

you literally make the prettiest gifs I've ever seen!!! can you do a tutorial perhaps??? I want to learn how to make them and yours are gorgeous

ahh oh my god thank you so much!! :’)

sure, here you go!! sorry if it’s messy i’m not the best at explaining things hah

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Sabrina’s Icon Tutorial

So you wanna learn how to make simple icons, and make them fast? This is the post FOR YOU. I constantly brag about my 1,500 icons for each of my muses, all simply edited and edited fast with minimal effort on my end.
(Note, this tutorial ISN’T how I edit my icons, but how I make editing them easier on myself.)

For this tutorial, you will need:
Photoshop! I use CS6 and while these features might be in earlier versions, I suggest getting CS6 to make things easier on yourself!
Icons to edit! Make sure you’re allowed to edit your icons if you download them from someone else’s icon set. 

If you are cropping your icons yourself, try to save the image with the artist’s URL- that way, you can credit the artist if someone asks for it, and you can delete the icon if the artist comes and asks you not to use their art.
If you didn’t crop your icons yourself, don’t worry about it, but please remember to be respectful if an artist approaches you and asks you to stop using a certain icon that uses their art! If they say to stop, stop using the icon and delete it like they asked you to.

That said, let’s get right into this! If a part has confused you, please don’t be afraid to head to my inbox and ask me for clarification!
Also note that this is MY METHOD of making icons- there is no Right or Wrong way to make icons. This is simply how I do them, and how I edit 1,500+ icons in a matter of 10 minutes.

Image-Heavy tutorial below the cut!

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Jerry Garcia Band
January 31, 1981
The Keystone
Berkeley, CA

Download: FLAC/MP3

Source: SBD > Cass Master > DAT(x) 48khz
Transfer: DAT 60ES > M-Audio Audiophile USB > WAV > Flac>MP3@320

Set II Only
1. /I’ll Take A Melody
2. Simple Twist Of Fate
3. Harder They Come/
4. Dear Prudence
5. Midnight Moonlight

Notes from original Torrentor: Excellent sounding sbd recording. No hiss whatsoever. I would not transfer an incomplete show except for the fact that this is likely an upgrade to the current “Cassette (x)” source. Goldwave used to put in a few fades, resample to 44.1 and normalize to 100%. Excellent performances of Harder They Come and Dear Prudence.

d1t1 fades in – only a few notes missing
d1t3 tape flip – only a few notes missing

anonymous asked:

hello! I just wanted to ask if you could share how you sharpen your gifs and perhaps your settings when you save them because their quality is AMAZING and it's well-known that ps fucks them up after you save them TT

of course! thank you so much for the compliment, because sharpening is actually what i struggle with most so the reassurance is nice!

small tutorial under the cut

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Endless summer theory time :Catalyst idols

So, I was trying to figure out which mythological goddess /being / creature resamples the different catalyst idols…

Michelle’s could be the Greek goddess Hera, since her symbol is also the peacock

Sean’s does looks almost excactly like the Egyptian god Horus

Diegos looks like the Egyptian god Anubis

Rajs is a centaur, those greek mythological creatures belong to the entourage of the god Dionysos (if i am not mistaken)

Quinns is obviously a mermaid.. I am not certain if she is meant to be a special mermaid in particular… Since there are several mermaids in Greek mythology like Thetis or Galatea but probably it is Kalypso..

Mc is Andromeda for all we know 😊

Grace’s I don’t know to wich mythological character is referring to… Maybe it’s based on Nordic mythology were the swan is a symbol for the Valkyrie?

Jake’s obviously is a Werwolf.

And with the others I am not sure what they could be based on… What do you think?? - let me hear your thoughts, ideas criticism…I am curious what your opinions are… 😊

Who doesn’t love animated GIFs?

Believe it or not, support for GIFs at Tumblr was a happy accident! When Tumblr put together the code for handling JPEGs, support and GIFs (and PNGs) happened to also work using the same code. Perhaps even more surprising is that the tools used to handle GIFs at Tumblr hadn’t changed much from those early days. 

The image above is an original from sukme that could not be posted to Tumblr last June. It also would have failed if he’d tried last Sunday. If you click-through to the original post, you will see a muddy, reduced-saturation mess. All this because our resizer couldn’t handle the original. 

I’ve got ninety-nine problems and the GIF is one

There is a lot of misinformation about GIF limits on Tumblr, so let me set the record straight: We don’t count colors or frames or pixels. We only count bytes and seconds. Every image that comes in is scaled to a number of smaller sizes and the smaller your image is, the fewer resizes need to happen, which means less time. 

We had two core failure modes in our prior resizer: Some images would take as much as several minutes to convert. This was not directly attributable to color, dimensions, or frame count, but a mysterious mix of all of them. Some images would balloon in size (600KB at 400x400, 27MB at 250x250).

The unpredictability of these failures made our GIF limits feel arbitrary and terrible to the end users. Some have gone so far as to threaten monkey kicks. I don’t want to get kicked by a monkey, so we started working hard late last year to fix it. 

A proposed solution

Some of you may have seen this post where the performance of our current converter was compared with a new “mystery” converter. The mystery converter was roughly 1000x faster on the “slapping” GIF and happened to look great, but had quality problems on other images. Those were more fully explored in here a couple of days later.

If you haven’t figured it out yet, the mystery converter is gifsicle.

Getting a better handle on it

To get an unbiased test set, I took a random sample of roughly 90K GIFs that Tumblr users tried to upload, not limiting the corpus only to those that succeeded. These were tested against the current converter, resizing down to the next size we produce. Each resize is given up to 20 seconds to complete in our application, but all resizes must complete in 30 seconds. All resizes must be under 1MB or we will convert the first frame to JPEG and call it a day. 

2.6% of my 90K GIFs took longer than 20 seconds to resize. This is an underestimation of how many GIFs would be rejected for time because this is only one of several resizes required. A whopping 17.1% of all GIFs were over 1MB. Even if we bump up to 2MB, the rejection rate is 2.75%. The converter was making over 25% of all resizes larger than the higher-resolution originals! The total rejection rate for my sample set was 4.46% of all original GIFs uploaded. 

Using gifsicle is so much faster that our CPU rejection rate drops to 0.00 on my test set. Also, just under 99% of all images were smaller when resized than they were at their original resolution. The size rejection rate was a much lower 0.59%.

Gifsicle problems

As compelling as the performance of gifsicle is, the quality problems are too much to ignore. We played around with the code a bit, but eventually we just got in touch with the author, Dr. Eddie Kohler. The specifics are in this post, but the short version is that Eddie was able to improve quality by adding some more advanced resampling methods as well as palette expansion for small-palette images. This increased our size rejection rate to 0.68% while still keeping us well under our CPU budget. 

Proving it

Image processing is all about choices. How do you resample? Do you sharpen? Where in the workflow is gamma correction applied, if at all? The list goes on and on. 

As you can imagine from the performance differences, our previous converter and gifsicle take very different approaches to GIF resizing. The output images look different. Sometimes it is slight, sometimes it is significant, but there is no way we could put out a converter that messes up your images, even if it messes them up quickly. 

We set up a qualitative study. The goal was simply to prove that we weren’t doing worse than our old converter, not necessarily that we were doing better. This study was opened up to all Tumblr employees, as well as some “randomly selected” outsiders (my friends and family). Participants were presented with one of two questions:

1.) Given an original and 1 resize, decide whether it is ok, unacceptable, or completely broken.

2.) Given an original and 2 resizes (randomly choses which was left and which was right, sometimes they were identical), choose the better image or say there is no difference.

The results were everything I could have hoped for. The “acceptable” test showed that users found gifsicle better at producing acceptable results (87% vs. 84%), but not by a statistically relevant amount (p=0.086) and that gifsicle produced fewer broken GIFs (0.71% vs. 1.38%), but again not enough to say it is definitively better (p=0.106). The “better” test found users preferring gifsicle 37% of the time, the prior converter only 16% of the time, but users also preferred one identical image over the other 27% of the time. Again, it is hard to say that gifsicle is better, but it is clear that it is no worse.

Putting it all together

The development and testing described above took from late October until the beginning of March. Packaging, deployment, and integration took only a couple of weeks!

We aren’t done. There is work underway exploring how we handle JPEGs and PNGs. There are a slew of features that we can go after. This was a big step, a necessary step, but not the end for sure. 

We are a community, it takes a village, there’s no “i” in GIF

This project couldn’t have happened without the excellent work of Eddie Kohler in creating, maintaining, and enhancing gifsicle. Tumblr’s Site Reliability Engineering group packaged and helped deploy gifsicle onto hundreds and hundreds of machines in our datacenter. Tumblr’s Security Team vetted the code, both by inspection and by attacking it to make sure we stay safe. This was all for the awesome Tumblr creators, but I have to mention qilme/sukme (same dude, two blogs), reallivingartist, and especially gnumblr for their help in understanding and ultimately attacking this monstrous problem.

Scale Cell Phone and Tablet Tutorial using Shrink Film

This was something I started playing around with that’s super fun, so I thought I’d share. :)

What you need:

  • Shriny Dinks inkjet printable or similar Shrink Film (I’m using Graphix brand)
  • Manicure or fine detail scissors
  • Color inkjet printer
  • Oven
  • Photo editing software (I use Photoshop Essentials, but any will work as long as you can work in layers and change a layer opacity)

First, choose your tech. Use a clear, sharp image from straight ahead. I’m using an iPad 4 that I found in a Google image search.

Copy the photo into your editing program and crop the image just to edges of the device.

Find out the real world height dimensions of your tech. The iPad 4 is 9.5 inches. Now for some maths. We need to figure out the scale that you want. Generally I keep yoSDs and MSDs in the same scale, but that’s up to you.

For ¼ (and 1/6) scale dolls, you want to multiply the height of the tech by .25 to get the final scale size. 9.5 x .25 = 2.375

To make SD props, you need to multiply the height by .33 (9.5 x .33 = 3.135).

But shrink film reduces in size by about 50%, so now we need to divide the scale size by .5 to get the pre-shrink size.  Using the ¼ scale measurements:  2.375 / .5 = 4.75 inches.

Now we resize our image to the pre-shrink height and change the resolution to 300dpi. Make sure to tick “constrain proportions” and “resample image” so it will resize properly. Don’t worry if your image loses a little quality, you won’t notice in the final shrunk piece.

Make a new 8.5 inches by 11 inches @ 300dpi file and paste your newly rescaled image as a new layer. If the image isn’t the size you wanted, double check that your resolution is @ 300dpi for both files.

Shrink film is a little pricey, so fill that sucker up before you print it. If you can’t think of enough things to make, you can just do half the sheet and save the other half for next time.

When you’re all set, merge your layers together until you have one image layer and the white background layer.

Now this next step is pretty important if you nit pick about color like I do. Change the opacity of layer 1 to 75%. As the film shrinks, the colors darken, so making them just a bit lighter balances it out.

Go preheat your oven to about 325 degrees, then print and cut your images out as close as you can get. Be as neat as you can. A little mistake will show up in the final version.

Follow the instructions on your package of shrink film and go shrink those gadgets down!

You did it! If you use this tutorial, tag me to show me what you made!

Extra tips:

The moment you pull the bits out of the oven, put a heavy book on top to help them cool flat.

You can spray seal the finished product with a couple coats of high gloss sealant, but don’t use brush-on water based gloss like Mod Podge or acrylic gloss because the ink will run.

Choose images with a visible shine or gloss in the photo them to help fake the appearance of a shiny surface.

Use a pin vice to drill little holes in pendants after they’re shrunk to make tiny necklaces.

The maths above work for rescaling just about anything. Just remember for 1/3 scale dolls to multiply your real world measurements by .33 and for ¼ and 1/6  dolls you multiply by .25.

(You may use this tutorial to make props to sell, but please keep copyright laws in mind if you use images that don’t belong to you.)