regressing forward

Decided to post this picture because it is one of those real life moments. I was not feeling strong, I felt the exact opposite of lean, I was in a terrible mood, and felt like I was regressing rather than pushing forwards. Sometimes this happens. Not everyday feels like a victory. But the sun is gonna rise no matter what, and you have to keep going. Remind yourself that nothing in nature blooms all year, so you cannot expect yourself to always do so either. Some days wont be your best, and that is okay. But just remember to pick yourself up and fight off the thoughts that tell you anything that doesn’t build you up or push you forward.


Trailer to my new short film about my girlfriend Michelle and I’s road trip to the PNW to see old friends. Full video coming next week.


Dane Reynolds on a good one near home. Seems like he was riding longer boards then. 5 years ago on my old Bolex 


I just got back from a trip to Spain with Ryan Burch. He’s going to change the face of surfing. Here he’s discussing board design.

First Trip

Firewood? Check

Cooler? Check

Hiking Shoes? Check

Laptop? Check

Wallet? Check

I talk to myself. It’s residual condition from growing up an only child.

I closed the last wooden storage compartment in the floor of my camper. For some reason I always get anxious when packing, I guess I’m fearful that I’ll forget something. Ironically, I’ve never left anything that I haven’t been thankful to leave behind. The accouterments of “civilized” living weigh us down and deprive us of the gifts bestowed by freedom. I am addicted to comfort and I travel as a means of breaking that addiction.

To me, the word “adventure” means “thinking on your feet.” By creatively solving physical problems I gain more resiliency to fight the fear and static. The goal is simple… but packing isn’t. Packing sucks.

Walking around to the side door, I admire my new mobile digs. The new imitation oak floor nestled beneath the pine trim makes it feel like a proper home. I grab the hanging broom from its hook and sweep the dirt I tracked in while packing. Ready to go.


Trailer to my new film. It premieres this week across Southern California. Check out for tour dates.